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I thought the whole purpose of an automatic shutoff of headlights is that you don't have to remember to shut them off. They work as intended on the RL; however, you still get a warning chime just like on any cheap car that doesn't have auto shutoff. I agree with steve95008 that this doesn't make sense and it is one of the few annoyances I have with my RL. Having it chime all the time, just for those few people who don't get their door closed tight, doesn't make sense either.
I didn't know, so I just checked it out. Yes, the doors have to be completely shut before the auto shutoff activates. I still don't like the warning chime, but I guess it's possible that's why they did it.
I would tend to agree. Especially since you can barely hear the chime once you close the door, but it's still ajar. I can't imagine it would truly save anyone from running down their battery.
Wow. You really have to wonder what the rush was with Acura to put this car on the market. Was it that they wanted to be the first in the segment to get something new out? Could be. The first to market usually tends to be the most successful (XM vs. Sirius, as an example). But in this case, it seems that everything that came after the RL is doing better in the market, with the exception of maybe the new A6.
But, anyway, it seems like Honda didn't put too much common sense into a lot of the systems in this car.
That's an awfully broad charge. Other than the admittedly annoying warning chime, do you have examples to actually back up your statement?? After driving the RL for eight months, I can think of no other examples.
And then there's the bugs with the systems.
Are you sure that other cars operate differently? I think it likely that many cars' systems can't differentiate between a door that is open and one that is partially open.
And the fact that if the thing that looks like a key, feels like a key, and works like a key but isn't a key is off by a nanometer, it will drain your battery.
I've only heard of a few instances of this happening, including one that I experienced and one that I've never been able to replicate.
And the fact that if you use the key fob to open the trunk after you lock the car, it will drain the battery (or some screwy thing like that).
This is a bug that I'm sure they'll be able to fix.
And then there's the bugs with the systems.
Many newly redisigned models have bugs. Many older models have bugs. It's almost a fact of life with current cars with all their electronic gadgets. I've read enough of these boards to realize that this is not an exclusive Acura problem.
I'm still waiting for something substantive to back up your broad charge of a lack of common sense on the part of Acura in the design of the RL.
Lots of dead batteries, due to the ignition switch design "system" - apparantly one must be trained in how to turn the RL off
Not sure about the RL; but that is true regarding the MDX. The MDX has the SRS passenger sensors in the seatback precluding the placement of heating coils there - or at least that is the corporate line.
So, if you pull up to your house at night, shut off the car, then don't get out of the car immediately, your car's headlights might go off before you ever get out of the car? I often pull up to my house at night, shut off the car, then proceed to pick up items I want to take into the house. I'd rather the timer not start until I open the door and close it. That sounds like a better design to me.
That's just a poor design on Honda's part. What happens if the lights aren't on, but you don't close the door all the way when you walk away from the car? Will the interior lights stay on, too? It's just nuts. Even if I manually turn on my lights and forget to turn them off, the battery rundown feature will shut off everything after 15 minutes. It's supposed to be set it and forget it, not set it and wonder if you set it right or else you'll return to a dead battery. Come on.
Does the RL offer any kind of warning that you didn't close the door all the way when you lock it? I'm sure it does. For me, it's the tone of the horn. If everything is secure when I lock it, I get a short blirp from the horn. If a door or window is ajar, it will let out a loud blast to let me know something is amiss.
You can't lock the car unless the doors are all closed and the ignition switch is off.
As for your other comments, what if, what if, what if. You can't protect everyone from everything.
I'm very happy with the RL and I own one. You don't like it (which you've made abundantly clear) and don't own one. As far as I'm concerned, that's enough.
Enough for this board. I can assure you, that you will never change my mind on the subject with your nitpicking comments, and it's obvious you'll never change yours.
Whether or not that's what Honda had in mind, it works for me.
As far as adjusting the auto timer, you just set it and forget it. You don't have to "keep adjusting" it. It would be more of a hassle fumbling around with a bunch of mess in the car everytime you reach your destination than having to adjust a timer, even if you had to.
Well, if you want to stay in your car and don't want your lights to shine at other people, simply open and close your door. Simple.
Wouldn't it be easier to flip the switch?
But you've sort of argued against yourself because earlier you said with the Honda system you would end up shining your lights in some else's face if you don't exit your car.
The front brake pads rattled over bumps causing a noise which sounded like a loose suspension. Tired of waiting for a response, I looked at both front brake pads and found they have a very sloppy fit on the mounting pins. Additionally, the pads have no insulating shim on the back and no silicone backing, just metal to metal contact.
I applied silicone brake adhesive to the backs of the front pads and, during re-assembly, put a high temp silicone lube on the mounting pins and brake pad ears.
Believe me, this sounds like a new car! The noise over bumps is gone and I am well satisfied with the fix. In my opinion, this is a brake pad design/quality issue that needs to be addressed.
But you've sort of argued against yourself because earlier you said with the Honda system you would end up shining your lights in some else's face if you don't exit your car.
Huh? How so?
I said if you don't manually turn off your lights you'd be shining them in other people's faces. Manually would be flipping the switch or otherwise. A good automatic system would turn them off for you. It seems the best bet with the RL would be to turn them on/off manually all the time.
Or it could just be an age thing. It seems the most active owners here are pretty far on in age, surprisingly. Some of these reported problems could just be that they don't have the full mobility/strength to close the door with enough force or turn the key far enough back. Who knows?
C'mon, I don't think that would be the case.
I know jj is like 99-years-old, but he's tough and sprightly for an old guy, and I'm sure he has no problem closing his door, or turning his engine off (if he remembers to). :P
jj. I'm just kidding!! :P
Allegedly, the problem is caused by shutting the car off, then using the trunk release button on the door to open the trunk. Supposedly, there's a defect that keeps sending power to release the trunk even after it's open, and this runs down the battery if you leave the car parked for a while. To avoid the problem, you can do one of three things:
1. Press the trunk release button on the door before turning the car off
2. Use the button on the key fob to open the trunk
3. Just open the trunk with the release on the trunk handle
I let my son drive it while I sat in the back seat. At 6' 1", 235 lbs. I had plenty of room. Special recessed areas in the interior of the roof gave me 2" to 3" of head clearance.
The automatic headlight off feature works properly, starting the timer after the car's system confirms you have finished using the vehicle, ie. ignition off and drivers door closed.
I would advise anyone considering an RL to ignore posts in this forum written by people who own lots of opinions, but do not actually own an RL.
Nav locks up - car has to be restarted to fix
Nav reboots while driving down the road
Brake squeal
Antilock brakes pulsing while driving
Whines and rough shifting from transmission
Rattles on the dash and near sunscreen in back window
Wont start - have to exit, lock and reenter several times
Heated seats work a few minutes then stop heating
Rattles under the car going over bumps
Handsfree sounds horrible - popping and cracking
Vibrations in steering wheel
Windshield washer fluid barely sprays half way up the windshield
I have had it in 6 times - including dropping it off today (havent picked it up, but dont have high hopes) at 2 dealers. Acura corporate customer service has been no help and has hung up on me twice. They didnt want me to record the conversation - even though their answering system announces that they do. Certified letters to them with no response - except phone calls that they hang up on.
The ride and road noise are HORRIBLE. It depends what you compare the car to. It claims to compete with BMW, Mercedes and Lexus.. but all of those cars have a better ride and much quieter cabin. Acura has the best Nav by a long shot - when it isnt locking up. They need to decide if they are a luxury sedan or a sports car. It is contradictory to try to be both.
I have had it. I have hired a lemon lawyer - who gets their fee from the manufacturer only if they win. A $50k car should NOT have so many problems. Maybe mine is bad because I got one of the 1st made, but they should have offered to replace it by now.
:lemon:
regards, steve
If I they are related, I'm wondering if I can disconnect the battery cable and fix the problem. Unlike the RL, the TL doesn't say GOODBY. But a few days ago I looked into the immobilizer indicator light and it seemed as this if I didn't remove the key until the indicator goes out the door locking sound stop, but I don't have alot of hope that both of my problems are fixed.