im not sure where the governer is but it does have one. my 2000 sunfire is goverened at 108 mph roughly. after that the its as if there is no more gas to the engine and is slows down so fast its almost like the brakes come on not a good feeling to have when your going that fast.
Sunfires are electronically limited to 109mph. Figure it's more due to the suspension not being able to handle any more speed than the engine not being able to produce enough power. What is your tach at when you hit 108?
Moral of the story, you're not meant to go that fast in a Sunfire.
just bought this car. now all of a sudden the turn signals, hazards and brake lights wont work. checked the fuses, relays, and bulbs. all fine. somebody mentioned a multifunction switch... can anybody help me? i dont even know what that is or if it's the problem!
anyways to take out your cd player open your glove department on the left hand side there will be 2 10 or 8 inch screw or bolts there take them off then get in driver side turn key to start possitision press brake put car in drive amd remove plastic cover remore both screws of cd deck and unplug wires directly off cd deck. my sunfire had same problem i just went to hock shop and back new deck anyways i cant tell you how to fix it just because the decks are crap but i can tell ya how to take itr out. good luck
2003 pontiac sunfire, automatic transmission, vehicle has 70,000 kms. When engine is turned on, idles around 1000 rpms. Speedometer doesnt move when going forward, when trying to accelerate rpms will jump between 3000 to 5000 and car will not accelerate at the proper speed. Car was fine earlier in day, parked for 6 hours, then problems began. :confuse:
the glass in the the doors are super heavy, and burns the motors out after a while. To replace them take it to a glass shop or body shop.You can buy the motors online for around 25-35 dollars each.
Just had the same headlight problem on a 2000 sunfire. There is a common ground underneath the battery, bolted to the chassis. That particular ground is for all of the lights in the front of the vehicle and the washer pump. The car I was working on had a lot of corrosion on the connections. I cleaned it up and the problem was solved.
Just did a head gasket, waterpump, plugs and wires. I flushed the cooling system which took quite a bit of time(45 min.). The vehicle was running the entire time and seemed normal. The next day I started it up and it ran fine until it reached normal opperating temp, then stalled out and would refire. After several hours I rechecked and it started fine, and again stalled when it got warm. It will run if you work the throttle, but missfires, sputters, and lacks power. No smoke of any other signs of a faulty head gasket. P.S. I,m no rookie when it comes to cars, this is about the 10th head gasket I've done. The installation procedures were by the book, and the head was resurfaced. Please help.
i have a 2003 sunfire and it won't start. i tried boosting it and it still won't turn over. could it be that i need a new starter for it. any ideas will be greatly appreciated. it happened twice all ready. i checked all the fuses and still nothing. thank you
if you think it might be something electrical then it sounds like a faulty ground somewhere. perhaps the main ground. if you think it's something else perhaps the fuel pump is shot. if it were the starter i don't think that it would work intermitently it would probably just get progressively worse also if it were the starter you would probably crank crank crank nothing then crank crank crank voom car starts. have you ran out of gas recently if so turn the ignition on up to 20 times without starting the car each time pressure will build up in the fuel line. and you wont have the problem again.
found out that my 2003 sunfire has a new problem. When trying to start it, it doesn't do nothing no sound or anything it's like the ignition switch is dead or something. Could it be a neutral safety switch or something like that. please help.
hi, i own a 97 sunfire 2.2 and i have gas keaking from one of the conectors on the fuel rail im pretty sure there for the injector how do i take them out, do i have to take the whole intake off to get them out or what please help.
Hey, I've changed a resister once before its on the passenger side just above your feet above the heater blower motor it's not to hard to change only 3 screws if I remember corectly.it only takes about 15 min or so I think I also removed the blower motor at the same time and cleaned out the leaves and dirt that gets in there.You should see it sitting above the blower motor on the top left corner.
I have a 2001 4 door sunfire, I am the original owner. I have always taken care of it and was wondering mostly about the wire issues and was wondering how many people have had these problems...
things that have gone wrong with my car.. 1. replaced the CD player 2. back speakers rattle 3. have changed the signal arm 4 times because only the daytime running lights would work. 4. rear defrost wont work 5 have replaced the back tail lights every 2 months burns out and signs of melted light bulbs found. 5. parked car outside grocery store wouldn't start again.. towed it to the shop mechanic put keys in and viola it started for him.. so we replaced the battery. 6. middle of the dashboard light gone out. 7. clock light burnt out x2 8. now my lights come on for about 2 mins when cold and flick off then I have to turn my high beams on and they will stay on but if I hit any kind of bump the flick off again..
Yes, its in the manuel. After replacing the remote's battery (clean the terminals first) you push and hold in the lock and unlock buttons on the remote( while in the car), holding them both down for 5-15seconds. You'll hear the door locks click and thats it, your on your way. carl
First i was having an issue with my high beams turned out it was a broken ground wire, now my fuel gauge is reading 110 mph any suggestions on wtf the problem is?
the car will run but rough idle plugs and wires have been changed iam thinking it might be the coil packs put there firing and there are no cracks in them number 3 coil is cross firing to the num 2 when i take the wire off some are blue and some are reddish. help!!!. Also had low oil pressure. and no pressure on EGR valve. ive got good oil pressure now thanks to some kerosene.At start up before this happened it had a little miss fire for a split sec. at start up
I purchased a 1995 Sunfire GT a year ago (May 2009) and I can not believe how much rust proofing saves a vehicle from harsh Canadian winters. I wasn't intentionally looking for a Sunfire but they are so plentiful and because they never really held their resale value they are cheaper than alot of other used cars. I had to admit that I never expected to have to do so much mechanical work to it because it wasn't kept up but it has turned out to be a great little commuter. My car was the first year for the Sunfire GT and the only year with the 2.3 liter and I would recommend to anyone that is looking for a cheap car to either fix up or just to get them around town, buy 1996-2005 and avoid a 1995 GT if it needs alot of engine work because they are hard to get parts for. Luckily all my engine has needed was a new water pump, other than that it has given me no problems and it purs like a kitten, has lots of power though I think it could be a bit better on gas but it is still not bad. :surprise:
i have a 2001 sunfire with 86k on it. the car doesnt spit sputter or stall but it is running low voltage. i was going to change the alternator but now im getting a strong electrial smell, dont know if the car is going to go up in flames or not. can the smell be caused by the car running low voltage? PLZ HELP
Not sure if you will see this, but I am in the process of buying a 2001 sunfire and it is having the same problem as yours with the light sound and service repair. Dealer says its a bulb issue but I hope I am not buying a lemon! It also has some grinding noise which the dealer also says is the a/c pump clutch. I am getting in over my head? Email me at just_a_girl_reallyATyahoo.com so I can get it sooner, thanks!
I have this rattling going on and i believe it is the heat shield but i am not sure where it is, can someone please help me and tell me where it is located.
I bought a Pontiac Sunfire 2004 new at the end of 2004, and am the first and only owner of the vehicle. At year 3 I noticed the clear coat was beginning to come off the top of the roof of the car (it had a kind of white rough look developing). I took to car to the dealership and was told it was not under warranty and that it was "sun bleaching"... I argued that I don't care if I was living in Arizona.. the clear coat shouldn't come off after just 3 years. Needless to say the claim was denied. Additionally my power windows stopped working at year 3 of owning the car, and a fan blade for the venting system broke off inside and the car made a monotonous clicking noise, which drove me nuts.
Three years later my car looked so bad that most cars made in the 1980's had better paint jobs than my car. The "sun bleaching" had spread like a disease to cover the entire roof, about 50% of the trunk, and about 50% of the hood, and around all the edges. I took may car back to the dealership and was given a phone number to call for GM. After about 15 phone conversations and numerous more voice mails left with my "district specialist" and 3 case re-openings GM finally told me that they would cover 10% of the paint job, at a shop of their choosing. The estimate for the paint came in around $2,000.
The worst decision I have ever made was in purchasing this vehicle. I am not upset that the car had problems. I know all cars do. What I am upset about is that my car is very clearly defective and GM will do nothing to honor their poor workmanship and make it right. Has anyone had the same issues with the paint? I am to a point of trying a different tactic with GM.
Thanks for Posting the detailed procedure. I have a 1999 Sunfire GT 2.4 Automatic that was experiencing the same Identical problem with the high idle and rough shifting. Firestone charged me $540.00 to change the intake manifold gaskets, and fuel injector O Rings. The problem returned the very next day. I took it back to Firestone and they changed the A/C compressor idle sensor. Again, the problem was not fixed. I received a full refund from Firestone, followed the procedure you outlined with the TPS, what a you know, the problem is fixed!! Thanks for taking the time to post the info!
When I start my 1996 Sunfire convertible when it's cold (2.4L, manual transmission, 152000 miles), my Check Oil light stays on. If I turn the car off and back on, or if the car is warm, the light does not stay on. I had a sensor (Sorry, can't be more specific) replaced without any effect. Any ideas on a fix? BTW, there's oil and an OEM filter.
The rear turn signals in my 01 sunfire are getting some sort of build up in them and causing the bulbs not to work. I tried cleaning them out and replacing the bulbs but it keeps coming back. This time around it even killed the bulb. In the middle picture the bulb on the right seems to be corroded. Basically I need to know how to clean these and prevent it from happening again. I can't keep buying new bulbs every month. I'd appreciate any advice you can give me. Thanks! Images are too big to post in msg but click the links to see examples socket corroded bulb old bulb
I own a 2000 pontiac sunfire 2.2L. The check gauge light comes on after I fill up and the gas gauge takes a very long time to go from low to full. I have also noticed a decrease in my fuel mileage recently as well and just a general rough idle. I am thinking maybe fuel pump is potentially going out or perhaps i just need to replace the gas cap. Or could it be a cooling or compressor sensor going out?? Any help or feedback would be great. thanks
Comments
Moral of the story, you're not meant to go that fast in a Sunfire.
When engine is turned on, idles around 1000 rpms. Speedometer doesnt move when going forward, when trying to accelerate rpms will jump between 3000 to 5000 and car will not accelerate at the proper speed. Car was fine earlier in day, parked for 6 hours, then problems began. :confuse:
things that have gone wrong with my car..
1. replaced the CD player
2. back speakers rattle
3. have changed the signal arm 4 times because only the daytime running lights would work.
4. rear defrost wont work
5 have replaced the back tail lights every 2 months burns out and signs of melted light bulbs found.
5. parked car outside grocery store wouldn't start again.. towed it to the shop mechanic put keys in and viola it started for him.. so we replaced the battery.
6. middle of the dashboard light gone out.
7. clock light burnt out x2
8. now my lights come on for about 2 mins when cold and flick off then I have to turn my high beams on and they will stay on but if I hit any kind of bump the flick off again..
I am so tired of this stupid car!!!!
Good,bad or indifferent.
Three years later my car looked so bad that most cars made in the 1980's had better paint jobs than my car. The "sun bleaching" had spread like a disease to cover the entire roof, about 50% of the trunk, and about 50% of the hood, and around all the edges. I took may car back to the dealership and was given a phone number to call for GM. After about 15 phone conversations and numerous more voice mails left with my "district specialist" and 3 case re-openings GM finally told me that they would cover 10% of the paint job, at a shop of their choosing. The estimate for the paint came in around $2,000.
The worst decision I have ever made was in purchasing this vehicle. I am not upset that the car had problems. I know all cars do. What I am upset about is that my car is very clearly defective and GM will do nothing to honor their poor workmanship and make it right. Has anyone had the same issues with the paint? I am to a point of trying a different tactic with GM.
Thanks for looking into this.
Images are too big to post in msg but click the links to see examples
socket
corroded bulb
old bulb