Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

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Comments

  • newmiatakidnewmiatakid Member Posts: 10
    Hi, I just bought a '97 miata w/ 68k miles. I have a few questions about my new toy. They may sound dumb, but please bear with me because I am mechanically challenged. First, I notice ticking sound when I start the engine, especially when its a cold morning start. But once the car warms up, the ticking sound goes away. The previous owner told me that it is the (lifter?), but his mechanic told him its normal for miatas. Even if he had it fixed for $1k, the problem would come back. Therefore, it wasn't worth it to fix it. Is it true? Do you have the same problem? Another question is that I have found it difficult to shift from N to 1st, then 1st to 2nd gear when the car is cold. Is it normal? Should I change fluid? If so, what kind of fluid should I change? Lastly, I have a problem with the air horn that the previous owner put in. If the wires were connected, the horn would not stop. What is wrong? Can I reconnect the original horn? Please advise. Thanks!
  • freddy_kfreddy_k Member Posts: 376
    What area are you in? I'm still looking for club/autocross information in the greater Toronto area, perhaps you can point me in the right direction?
  • WarpDriveWarpDrive Member Posts: 506
    I'm near Ottawa.

    You should join up with the Trillium Club...they are a big club and wounld participate in lots of these events/tours
  • rs_pettyrs_petty Member Posts: 423
    I post here because the topic on best used car for young drivers didn't address the topic. Recently, I have thought a good used Miata might make a good trainer for my young driver. Not as an everyday vehicle, but rather with supervision, to get driving time in something that is enjoyable, precise, and delivers good feedback to controls. I find the Miata to also be relatively reliable, simple and maintainable. Insurance may be another thing though. I think it would also make a pretty good hobby car for Dad. Any thoughts?
  • freddy_kfreddy_k Member Posts: 376
    Thanks Warpdrive, I'll check it out. Do they have a web

    rs_petty

    Look at it this way, I agree with your thoughts, plus:

    1) They have a reputation of solid reliability

    2) Not much horsepower for a new driver to get out of hand with

    3) With only 2 seats there won't be the distraction of several passengers

    4) In my experience the Miata, probably due to it's small engine and lack of attitude, is only marginally higher then a compact coupe. I pay about $120 more each year on my Miata then I did on my Escort ZX2.
  • dgraves1dgraves1 Member Posts: 414
    freddy - Sorry to hear about you car. Too bad she wasn't around to help you get rid of the ZX2.
  • WarpDriveWarpDrive Member Posts: 506
    Here ya go.

    http://www.miata.net/clubs/canada.html



    If you can, get on the list for the Vermont weekend tour. 100 Miata's are expected at least. Supposed to be a blast.

  • j2kbarlowj2kbarlow Member Posts: 89
    The ticking sound does sound like the lifters. Each car is different but my '93 "tells" me when it's time to change her oil by ticking loudly after startup. New oil (10W-30) solves the problem for me. Others have it all the time at start up. Keep the oil changed and it shouldn't be an issue.

    Many owners have had good luck improving shifting with Redline MTL or MT-90 synthetic transmission oil. I've used both and the MT-90 works better for everyday use (less heat).

    I don't have air horns, but sounds like the relay's shot.

    Check out miata.net for more detailed answers.
  • newmiatakidnewmiatakid Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the advice, j2kbarlow. I'am so glad that I posted this message. You have been very helpful. I feel better about the ticking sound now. I am going to change the transmission oil and see how it goes. Thanks again.
  • freddy_kfreddy_k Member Posts: 376
    dgraves1- I was trying to get rid of it for a while, wasn't I. Oh well, I don't think the ford would have held up nearly as well.

    I brought the car in today and took the closest thing they had to a Miata at the rental place - a Hyundai Accent. Well - at least it is small and light.
    I also got them to do some small additional work under insurance, like removing the tow hooks and aftermarket fog lights that came with the car and installing the front grill I've had in the trunk since the end of the summer. It'll be a long week to two weeks for me!
  • ace10ace10 Member Posts: 137
    if coming from the engine, not the tranny!!!!! with 68K miles, it's a good idea to change the tranny oil anyway, but it it's the the motor oil that should be examined in relation to the clicking ticking. Both of my 1.8L engines, made the noise, my '97 has it a little, but it goes away after five or ten seconds. Fresh oil does not seem to "fix" the problem. I haven't tried synthetic, but don't really think it needs it.

    Gotta agree about the relay gone bad on the horn.

    ace
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I also have noisy lifters. Goes tap-tap-tap at first in a really cold day, but goes away as she warms up. Less so with fresh oil, but still makes some noise. No big deal, as long as it goes away once she warms up.

    Do the tranny oil and the turret oil, too. The shifter is so smooth because it basically resides in a pool of gear oil (in the turret). Check out Miata.net, go to the Garage section, the have great photos of everything. It was the first time I did a tranny oil or turret service.

    BTW, use 75w90 gear oil. If you want, go synthetic. I used Mobil 1, which is available locally. Red line you have to mail order.

    Get a new horn. I changed mine because I didn't like the wimpy beep-beep anyway.

    Miata for a teen? I dunno. I am teaching my much younger brother to drive stick in it, because it's easy to drive, but I'm not sure it's the ideal car for every day, because it is so small and leaves little room for error (RWD, light). But buy it, because you'll want to keep it. :-)

    -juice
  • newmiatakidnewmiatakid Member Posts: 10
    Hi ace & juice, thanks for your advice. Since I am not good with my hands, do you think the dealer would change the tranny oil and the turret oil to the brands and grades I requested? If not, what should I do? Any suggestions?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    They will if they want to earn your business.

    -juice
  • j2kbarlowj2kbarlow Member Posts: 89
    The dealer may not comply if you ask him to procure a brand that he does not carry, but if you bring the stuff you want him to use, most will comply, though you may have to haggle him to get him to take his "materials" out of the price.
  • newmiatakidnewmiatakid Member Posts: 10
    Hi, guys. You mentioned that I should use Redline MTL, MT-90 or 75W90 for tranny. What about turret fluids? What should I use for that? What about differential fluid? Should I change that, too and what should I get? Oh, remember I was worry whether the Mazda dealer would change these fluids to my specifications. Guess what, the owner of a Mobil station down the block said he would do it for me. However, he admitted that he had never change the turret fluid before, but he is willing to try it, especially after I mentioned to him that I could get the instruction from Miata.net. Do you think I should go to the Mobil station guy or Mazda dealer? I know the cost is going to be a big difference. Please advise.
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    Hi everyone. I have long been a Miata fan, but never actually had the nerve to sign on the dotted line. I am actually now seriously considering a fairly older used Miata as a second car. My concern is fairly ridiculous, for sure, to most driving enthusiasts, but I wanted to ask:

    Is there a year or years of used Miatas that should be avoided when shopping used Miatas? Also, I see plenty of used Miatas at Carmax, the older ones with the excellent pop-up headlights, but those models also have the plastic rear window. These plastic windows are almost always yellowed and wrinkled. Is it possible and inexpensive to just replace the window, and not the entire top?

    Any specific Miata issues that one should look at when looking at used ones?

    I don't expect everyone to give a long list of items, but if there is anything especially important, if someone would speak up, I would appreciate it.

    Thanks!
  • j2kbarlowj2kbarlow Member Posts: 89
    newmiatakid: One thing with the 75W-90 - don't use synthetic 75W-90 - it's too slippery for the syncros. Redline will tell you this on the bottle, not sure about the others. Regular dinosaur 75W-90 is fine. It's probably a good idea to change the diff fluid too. Seems like it's 75W-90 too (synthetics are fine back there). I'm not sure about the turret oil. Juice?

    Justin, go to www.miata.net, click on the FAQ link, then the Buying a Miata link. Everything you could want to know about buying a used Miata. As far as the plastic windows, yes they can be replaced separately from the top but it is usually not much less expensive than replacing the entire top.
  • ace10ace10 Member Posts: 137
    why not shop around for a private seller? Carmax is an absolute RIP on used car pricing, IMHO. While at miata.net check out the classified secion. There are numerous used miatas there. Remember, Carmax buys alot of its vehicles at auction. No service records, no idea who the previous owner(s) were. I sold my P.O.S. Ford Exploder to Carmax for way more than it was worth. Pity the sucker who bought if from them. It's probably on the side of the road, tranny belching forth parts.

    BTW- I'd go for a nice, '94 or '95 with higher miles. Should be doable for $6 to $8K.

    just my opinion.
    ace
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 17,539
    Ford Exploder...That's a good one!

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD

  • newmiatakidnewmiatakid Member Posts: 10
    Thanks again, J2kbarlow.

    Justin, I agree w/ ace, you would be better off buying a Miata from a private owner. I just bought my 1997 w/ 68K miles. The seller was a 2nd owner, but its in good shape because he babied it. I just took advantage of the warm weather in NY (65F)and put the top down. Man, it feels great. The price of the car is flexible and negotiable, especially if you are in the Northeast region of the country. In fact, there are a couple of them in the classify section of the NY Newsday. I am sure J2kbarlow, ace and juice would concur that it also depends on the conditions of the car. People who want to sell their convertible this time of the year really want to get rid of it. So you may be able to get one for a very reasonable price. I don't have actual experience w/ 1994 Miatas, but consumer report indicates that the 1994 engine has more than usual problems. Good luck!
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    I did go to Miata.net and looked at FAQ's. Have not explored the classifieds. I know that CARMAX pricing stinks, but I like their service actually. Not any personal experience except for selling them my cars, but parents and friends have bought cars. They tell them: Keep the car for 30 days, bring us a list of what you want adjusted, fixed, replaced, etc, and we will do it. Two friends bought their first Mercedes and BMW's that way through "Valu-Max" and could not be happier.

    Of course, classifieds are good too. The more Miatas I see, the better choice I can make, right?

    I can't decide....pop-up headlights or glass rear window......;)
  • perunestperunest Member Posts: 42
    Just wanted to respond to those of you discussing discounts. I live in Western Massachusetts and drive a 1990 Miata (hard top this time of year). Each Winter I see advertisements in the Boston Globe for discounts over $3,000 on new Miatas. One dealer has been running an ad this year for a sticker $25,000+ car (I can't locate the ad and don't remember the exact price) for $19,999. The discount was for more than $5,000. That's the best I've seen. It's obviously the special edition (the ad did mention leather). It's been in the Saturday Globe for weeks, but I can't find it now, so either it sold or I threw out part of the paper. It's possible that the car had some damage (kids jumping on the hood, etc.), but over the past 5 years I've regularly seen ads for $3,000 to $3,500 off sticker. Of course you get only the color the dealer has.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Use the same 75w90 gear oil for the turret as well. You have to lift the center console and the shifter boot to gain access. Use a turkey baster to sift and remove the old fluid, or what's left of it (if any), then replace with new gear oil.

    I used Mobil 1 75w90 for all three places (turret, diffy, tranny). It's been fine for me, shifts are actually a little easier when it's cold.

    Justin: avoid early 1990 models, but by now even those issues have likely been fixed.

    The 1991-1993 have the 1.6l engine and one airbag, 116hp and 25/30 mpg. The 1994 models got the 128hp 1.8l engine and bigger brakes, plus a bigger gas tank for the 22/27 mpg rating. Power crept up slowly after that, as did weight (a little).

    There was no 1998 model, and 1999 was when they got glass rear windows (and 140hp, very nice). I test drove one a while back and it certainly felt quicker than my 1.6l. Zoom zoom! I'd understand if you stretched the budget.

    Each of them has their own appeal, so look for one that was well taken care of (bingo, kid). My 1993 had 27k miles and a very clear plastic window when I bought it. Maybe I was lucky. The owner was the proverbial "little old lady", a school teacher, with a 3 mile commute and rarely even bothered to take the top down. It passed inspection without even needing the headlights re-aimed, and has not give me a problem in the year and a half I've owned it. They are ultra-reliable, it's almost ridiculous.

    I enjoy working on it, so I tend to "make-up" things to do. I did all the service, removed the tow hooks, modified the front seat track for more thigh support, removed the sun visors that blocked my view, and lined the inside of the glove box and center console with felt-like contact paper (velour, actually). Next project is a rear view mirror with lights on the bottom. That gives you an idea of how reliable they are - you have to go out of your way to find projects on your Miata.

    I like pop-ups. Join the "Barn Door Fan Club" at Miata.net.

    -juice
  • j2kbarlowj2kbarlow Member Posts: 89
    Thanks for your take on the tranny oil juice. I assumed that since Redline's 75W-90 formulation specifically states not to use it for manual transmissions, the same would be true for all synthetics - obviously not the case. So, read the label newkid!

    Justin, to add to (or perhaps solve) your dilemma, you can add a glass window to a pop-up (i.e. Mark I) Miata. Makes even more sense if the plastic window is shot. That's what I've done with my '93. Bottom line, figure out your price range and buy the best you can afford. Used to be there were more aftermarket accessories for the 1.6L but I think that's changed over the past couple of years.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    IIRC I think Mobil 1's gear oil is a GL-5 specification, which is what the manual recommends.

    -juice
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    I am reminded of how lucky you guys(no women in here right?) are.

    I dropped the wife's car off for service this morning and took a 2001 Miata 6sp rental with me to work. I can't help but want to take the on/off ramps at tire squeal speeds. I think that's the reason I don't have one(other than the practicality).

    Anyway, I need to find a good driving spot at lunch time...

    Cheers!
  • WarpDriveWarpDrive Member Posts: 506
    Nice! Wish my dealer lent out cars like that. All I get are Suzuki Swifts and Neons.
  • robthelimeyrobthelimey Member Posts: 1
    Justin - generally, used Miatas are incredibly reliable, however there are a few things you should be sure to check for if you decide to take the plunge:

    Most importantly, Miatas have timing belts not chains. These belts should be replaced every 60K miles. Dealerships around here (DFW, TX) typically charge $350-$400 for the pleasure. It's real important to either get a service history to see if this has been done, or negotiate for the work in your deal. If the belt goes, you're looking at a mess of valves and a $1,500 bill to fix it.

    Electrics can be weak. If the car you're looking at has electric windows make sure that they open and close smoothly. Also, make sure you check the headlamp up/down operation.

    Gearboxes are usually strong, but don't be surprised if it baulks a little, particularly on 1st-to-2nd shifts - to my knowledge this is a trait.

    Plug wires can give up after a while. I'd recommend that you upgrade to a Bosch Premium set when you have the car of your dreams.

    If you hear a rattling from behind the passenger seat on your test drive it's likely that the battery brace has not been tightened all the way. Simple application of a wrench will fix the problem.

    Door speakers are vulnerable to a) getting blown out and b) getting kicked out.

    Don't be surprised to see carpet coming loose on the outerside of the footwells. This problem is recognized by Mazda (they have a technical service bulletin for it). If you buy from a dealer, see if they'll fix it for you before you take delivery.

    On 90-97 models, as you mention, you get a plastic rear window. These are subject to the ravages of U.V. light, weather and carelessness when putting the top down. It is possible, either through the dealer, or via the aftermarket, to replace just the window instead of the whole top. If you find a car that you have to replace the window on, it might be worth investing in a protector (try miata.net) to use to cover the window when the roof is down.

    For some reason, Miatas tend to collect door dings more than other cars. Door sills tend to get scuffed real easy, esp. if the previous owner liked to wear heels!

    Budget allowing, consider looking at 96 or 97 models. These have the side intrusion bars fitted in the doors and 5 more hp to account for the added weight.

    My only other advice would be to a) be sure to shop around - this time of year brings a lot of used Miatas to the marketplace. With all the free financing offers of late, there's a glut of used cars on the market and prices are tumbling. I just bought my second Miata, a fully loaded (but not "M") 96 from a dealer, 59K on the clock for $8,950 which is about $1K less than Edmunds TMV.b) GET A CARFAX report. A reputable dealer will get one for you for nothing. If you're shopping privately, it's worth the few bucks to check out the vehicle.
  • j2kbarlowj2kbarlow Member Posts: 89
    ... I'll add two things:

    1) The synthetic tranny fluid mentioned in earlier posts helps immensely with curing the 1-2 shift balkiness.

    2) It's my understanding that the Miata engines are non-interference types. Meaning that if the timing belt breaks, it won't start but nothing gets damaged internally. Still his advice stands with checking the records and getting the service done if it's needed. Even if no damage is done, it would be a royal pain to get everything lined back up and in working order.
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    When you own a Swift, they give you a Miata.

    Not true but worth a laugh.
  • freddy_kfreddy_k Member Posts: 376
    I wish I could have gotten a Miata loaner for my Miata, no harm, no foul!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Be happy you get a loaner at all! Some dealers don't even provide that.

    -juice
  • justinjustin Member Posts: 1,918
    For the advice, everyone. I have a feeling I will end up looking at the newer models, not only because of the glass window, but personally I like the 99+ interior design a little better.

    I am actually going to look for a 99 base model in blue with the steel wheels - no options except A/C. I think when the Miatas offered the steel wheels on base models, it actually made the car resemble the older Alfa's and Triumphs more. I know that performance will suffer, but even a base model Miata handles better than 90% of other cars out there :)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The ride on the base models is actually much more tolerable than the sport suspension. Also, less equipment means less weight. Good luck, I hope you find exactly what you want.

    -juice
  • mainsail2mainsail2 Member Posts: 77
    I am intending to pick up a 1990 Miata on Saturday from the second owner. The car has never been wrecked, no rust, original paint, good interior. It looks good except for a couple of door dings and faded plastic front and rear panels (the car is red). It needs a rear window, and has never had the timing belt changed out (72,000 original miles). The seller is moving and has been unable to sell the car at $4,750.00. He says the price is now HIGHLY negotiable. I was going to hold the line firmly at $3000.00, but am concerned about someone's quote that a timing belt costs $350.00 (dealer's price), and that a rear window costs nearly as much as a whole new top. What are good after-market estimates on these items? I live in Florida and am only going to use the car for very short errands and week end beach drives.
  • keithrichmondkeithrichmond Member Posts: 35
    Be very, very, very careful buying a 1990 or early 1991 Miata that hasn't had the timing belt replaced. The mechanic that you choose to do the belt replacement MUST be familiar with the wobbly crank/key problems associated with those model's engines. If a mechanic does the work improperly (which is very common) you are looking at major engine problems - see miata.net for the complete story. The keyway on the crank is the 1990/early 1991's achilles heel. That is usually the reason so many of these vintage cars have not had their usual 60k timing belt replacement - the likelihood of the belt breaking is less than that of the crank getting ruined...

    Keith Richmond
    (technical contributor to the miata.net garage)
  • keithrichmondkeithrichmond Member Posts: 35
    Sorry, I missed answering the question...

    A good aftermarket top from Robbins without a glass window would probably cost $500-$700 installed - replacing just the windowed section $300-$500 (make sure if you go this route they replace the zipper while they're at it). Another really cheap option is to have an upholstery shop cut the clear plastic out and sew in new clear plastic - usually ~$200 or less. Don't laugh I've seen it done a lot. It not only looks bad, it leaks like crazy. Still it's more watertight than a big crack and you can see through it better than a brown sunburned window!

    My previous statement about the dangers of timing belts included, don't go cheap on who does a timing belt for this car - go to someone with LOTS of experience on 1990 engines. The dealer is not always the one with the most experience either...

    Keith Richmond
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    IMHO it's not a bargain, so I'd shop for another Miata. There are plenty of used ones out there.

    That one is the oldest model year, one that had the crank issue, not from the original owner, and not one that was kept to the recommended maintenance schedule for the timing belt. I wonder what else they skipped?

    Unless it's a major bargain, even after you fix the things he skipped doing, I'd walk.

    -juice
  • mainsail2mainsail2 Member Posts: 77
    I will tread cautiously, take your messages with me, and if I do purchase do the same with repair shops. We have a lot of excellent, reputable shops in my location that I can directly ask about the crankshaft situation. I also have an excellent upholstry shop, who just today quoted $125 to remove the top and install clear plastic as a replacement for the window, and then replace the top. I'm curious, what about this type of installation causes leaking? This guy is real good and I'd be surprised if he would be willing to do an installation that doesn't work.
  • MarkinAtlantaMarkinAtlanta Member Posts: 194
    image


    I love this car! :-)

  • smarssmars Member Posts: 32
    Mainsail - I had a new window sewn in last October. No leaks yet! $125 sounds like a good deal if they are going to do the remove and install. I paid $75 just to have the window sewn in. I did the rest. I'd leave instructions for them to be very careful with the rain rail. Its fragile, and if they crack it, you'll get water inside the car when it rains. The rain rail has to be removed in order to do the job.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I'm thinking of buying a 93 Miata today. This car is high mileage but seems to be in pretty good condition. The exterior is bright red and for the most part looks good, no dents that I noticed. The interior is just about pristine. The engine looks clean. However, there are a few problems with it. First, the airbag light is flashing incessantly. Does anyone know if that means the sensor is gone or the main airbag controller is shot? How much roughly would it cost to fix it? Secondly, the power windows don't seem to slide too smoothly and pretty much stop halfway down. Does this mean the motor is shot or does it just need a new mechanism that controls the sliding movement? The engine has 134k. It fired right up, drove smooth, and seemed to have plenty of power. There was a little piston slap or valvetrain noise when it was first started but it quieted back down after 15 seconds. Is this characteristic of the Miata? I know their MPV and older 626 had valves that tended to clatter. The AC blows out ice cold air and the car has the optional hardtop. I think the softtop is pretty much shot though, but I will find out today for sure as I drove it the first time with the hardtop on. The front brake squeaked some, so I think it needs new pads, which is no big deal as I will do that myself. The car was rock solid, didn't rattle or creak at all, and had no slop in the steering. Everything worked besides the power windows as far as I could tell (will double check the cruise control and PM today). The oil pressure gauge showed good pressure at speed. Is this car an ok to good deal at $3290. I checked online and its worth about 3800. At this mileage, is there anything I should look out for repair wise? Can I expect this car to last another 30k with minimal problems? I'm basically buying it as a fun secondary car to tool around in as I'm saving up my money for a new Miata. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I may have joined the Miata club by 2.
  • thelthel Member Posts: 767
    is to take it to the local Mazda dealer's service department and have them take a look at it. If they know what they are doing (don't take that for granted BTW) they should be able to give you an idea of what kind of reconditioning you are looking at (hundreds vs. thousands of $$).

    Also, don't feel like you have to buy THIS car THIS day. In February, roadsters don't exactly sell real strong. There are lots of used Miatas out there so you need to be patient. The price of getting your heart set on something and getting burned can be VERY high. Trust me, I know.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    It's a 92, not 93. I did a carfax report and it showed up clean. It was bought in Texas and I'm in Florida. In my area, only 3 used Miatas are in the paper and all are quite a bit more expensive. Someone wants 5k for a 90 with 125k! I personally think its a good deal but I also don't want to be burned. Anyone else out there with some advice on how much I'm looking at to repair the few problems I found? I could live without the airbag, but on such a small car, it sure would be nice to have.
  • maynardf1maynardf1 Member Posts: 127
    We bought a '99 today. Only 16,500 kms with hard top, a.c. and cd player. No other options. It's silver and beautiful.
    Two questions:
    manual says fuel with research octane number 91 or (R+M)/2 method, 87. Huh?
    Also, there's a minor squeak/rub sound coming from the front driver's side roof latch. It goes away when I push up on the roof at that spot. Any solutions?
    thanks.
    What a car.
  • nativetex44nativetex44 Member Posts: 15
    I bought my 2000 Miata a couple of months ago. I am in love with this car. My 19 year old son keeps telling me he's going to save his money to buy me a hardtop. I don't really think a hardtop is necessary in Texas since it rarely gets the bitter cold weather or snow and ice. Is a hardtop really needed in a state where the average winter temperatures are well above freezing? For instance, the forecast for today is cloudy, high in the 50's.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I bought the 92 Miata I mentioned a few posts up. So far, I LOVE the car. It is so fun to drive and is in really good shape. I already changed the oil, bought 4 new tires, had the rear end aligned, replaced all the brake pads, bought a CD player, and put in some nice new speakers. I plan on having the tranny fluid and rear dif fluid changed and a new top put on soon. How much have people paid to redo the top on their Miata, both with and without a glass window? I was also wondering about the shocks. The car crashes quite severely over bumps but the shocks seem to control the ride fine. Is this just characteristic of an old high mileage convertible or are my shocks worn out? Remember, my car has 137,400 miles on it. Would new shocks help suppress the jarring shaking? I'm thinking that firmer new shocks would actually cause more shaking, but maybe I am wrong. I also hear a clunk on the driver's side front when hitting potholes. Could this be the same weak shock problem or is this a worn out ball joint or control arm bushing? Lastly, the rear brakes don't seem to be working properly. The rotors don't swipe clean and shiny like normal. The rotors get warm, but not hot. It's as if they work slightly, but not completely. Are the calipers just partially frozen or is there something wrong with the brake proportioning valve? I just find it odd they work some but not all the way. Anyway, these are all relatively minor problems to be expected with a high mileage car. i'm just thrilled to finally own a convertible. Oh, can anyone direct me to good websites where I can look up strut tower braces and other such performance products? Any help would be much appreciated!
  • ace10ace10 Member Posts: 137
    had some nasty hardtop squeeks. i used silicon spray on the gaskets to alleviate the problem. usually cured the squeek for a week or two...

    ace
  • j2kbarlowj2kbarlow Member Posts: 89
    If the shocks are stockers, they were worn out 80,000 miles ago! There are lots of great aftermarket products for the Miata. Your first stop should be:

    www.miata.net

    Happy motoring!
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