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Nissan 300ZX



  • schittonuschittonu Posts: 3
    have your injectors tested and your coil packs..
  • schittonuschittonu Posts: 3
    where can i get cold air intake for a 1991 300zx??
  • jamonzjamonz Posts: 1
    Just got a 1990 300zx TT given to me. Runs smooth,needs alternator and body work. Looking for as much input as I can get on what to look for or watch out for with this car as well as good web sites for parts, new or used. Has 4 wheel steering, I know nothing about this option, any goods or bads?

    Thanks for any input offered.
  • theman101theman101 Posts: 3
    ok i'm going to help you out on this one. for clean retail it will run $9,425 that means the car has to be dent free clean paint job and interior kept in good shape. so basicly a brand new car with 65k miles. The best thing to do would ask to test drive it and when you leave just take it to a mechanic and have him examine it. you ask is it a fair deal? well no it's not until he asks for $10,000.
  • theman101theman101 Posts: 3
    ahh that my friend is where you will have to get in an import magazine. now the parts they sell in the magazine can be used for show as in just everyday drive to work and since their heavy duty they can be used for racing.
  • theman101theman101 Posts: 3
    yes sir. it is possible. if the 300zx motor is a manual and the body frame for the 240sx is a manual then yes it could be possible.
  • jlaughmanjlaughman Posts: 2
    are you looking for another motor?? is it turbo or not??
  • I myself am looking to buy a 1993 300zx TT and am wondering if I may be getting myself into something, the car has around 145000 miles on it and from what ive slowly but surely have been learning from fellow turbocharged car enthusiests, is that most turbo's whether they're stock or aftermarket usually and and is almost guarenteed to not last over 65k miles, I want to get this car but looking at the prospect of having to replace two turbo's seems outragiously expensive and as much as I love this car I dont want to buy it and have to do that. Anyone have a 300zx TT with over say 70k miles that could vouge that they wont just go out on me some random day?
  • jlaughmanjlaughman Posts: 2
    you can buy and sometimes even rent from the right place wheel lock removers you pound them on and use an impact wrench to take the locks off
  • dmartin_1dmartin_1 Posts: 6
    Valve seals. When you step down on it its sucking the oil past your seals. Danny :(
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    aren't allowed in our Forums per our Membership Agreement, so I had to remove a few posts here.


    Need help getting around? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

  • clinecclinec Posts: 1
    I have an 1988 300zx with a temperature gauge problem. It is not a turbo and I have called the dealer and no one can tell me where the temperature sending sensor is located. Please advise.
  • jbentzjbentz Posts: 1
    I got a complete OEM wiring set from It cost me $246.

    Before that, I got just the connectors and had them spliced in, but after some mechanic did me the favor of cleaning my engine with that shiney stuff, it started missing in two cylinders after the engine warmed up, and I can't track it down. So I just decided to replace the whole harness.

    Now, can anyone tell ME how to get it through the firewall WITHOUT pulling out my dashboard or AC unit (which I think also means pulling the dashboard.

  • Coolant temp. sensor should be in the lower intake manifold right between #1 and #3 injectors.
  • I was wrong not in the intake, look just below the distributor. You'll see just a bit sticking out.
  • Just bought the car really cheap and it's running rough. I replaced the plugs but the 6th one looked like it hadn't been firing. The 6th cyl is not firing...the clip reads out 10.6ish volts while the rest are over 12...are there any typical electrical issues w/ the 6th cylinder? (I swapped coils and the coil and plug are fine.) I've had camaros my whole life..I'm used to bad distributors and plug wires. Can anyone with some 300zx experience give some advice? Thanks
  • 10.6 V is a little on the low side, check continuity of your power transistor. You might also try pulling the codes out of the ECU
  • tvancetvance Posts: 4
    1995 300 zx i have replaced the alt 3 times hooking each wire up right each time the charging sys does not charge bat runs below 12 car will not start i need help or my son going to kill me :cry:
  • tvancetvance Posts: 4
    i just bought a 1995 300 zx runs well does not have turbo but twin cam lether interior with suede t tops no leak all allamerican 16 rims how much should i ask
  • what is the mileage is it the original engine? how is the paint? 4 a ballpark i would say...check ebay and find a comporable vehicle and see what it sells for. Ebay vehicles sell a bit on the high side, but will give you an idea of where to start.
  • I have a 1991 300ZX turbo and I need to replace the spoiler. I put on an aftermarket part, but it isn't right. I have tried eBay and various junkyards looking for the real part, but no luck. Any ideas on where to get a genuine spoiler for the 1991 turbo (the spoiler that says "Twin Turbo" on the passenger side)?

  • I have a 1993 300zx I need to know a three ?'s I keep getting different information.
    1 The washer fluid light on the dash will not go off? Is the sensor in the rear wash tank?
    2 The Parking Brake light stays on?
    3 Some a hole stole the original bose radio out of my car where can I get a new one. I know they suck I just like the OME look.
    If you can help thanks in advance!
  • yeah I kept an oem radio...i think the sensor is in the rear tank...i think i remember it being there when i stripped one. No idea on the parking break light. drop me an email on the radio.
  • Under the bonnet there is a black plastic fuse / relay box on the inner wing close to the headlight.

    In there is a fuse marked "ign cont" on the box lid from memory a red 10 amp, this controls the alternator charge circuit which activates the alternator output, check this fuse, even if it looks ok replace it as have seen many that look ok but have gone high resistance either ay this will stop the alternator charging at the corrct 13.5 to 14 volts

    Hope that helps
  • Our much loved 1984 300ZX just bit the dust. :cry: It has numberous mechanical problems (leaky seals, differencial problem ect) Interior needs work but the body is solid (factory-custom paint job), tires are good. It's so old though!

    How do we decide what to do with it? It has been a fantastic car for all these years, low maintanence and made it to 230,000 miles! I hate to junk it but have no idea how to sell it, or for how much? Also I'm not sure if it can be smogged for sale in CA. Any ideas?
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,600
    If your '84 300 ZX runs, albeit with problems, why not try to sell it on Craigslist, with full disclosure of the problems, for, say $1,000? That's a lot more than the junk yard will pay. Ask $1,200-$1,500, and accept $1,000 or best offer.

    By the way, I have an '88 with 174,000 on it, but it still runs and looks okay. Not perfect, but quite okay; a 7 or 8 on a scale of 1-10. At some point, though, I'll have to decide what to do with it.

    Which seals leak? Is this issue simply due to mileage, or did the car run low on oil or overheat?

    Please let us know how you dispose of your Z.
  • I just bought a 1984 Nissan 300 ZX with Turbo, it starts up great and will run a minute then it will just turn off. THen start it up and it does the same thing. Any ideas.
  • There are flames shooting out of the tail pipe and is not sure what could be causing it.
  • Having some issues with the car starting and/or staying cranked.
    Engine starts and run fine for about 30-45 minutes..when it's cold.
    Once the car gets a little warm, it starts making sputtering sounds as if it's going to cut off. Sometimes it does cut off, and sometimes it doesn't.
    One thing for sure is once you cut the car off, it will not crank back up for about an hour or two. When you turn the ignition it sounds like it wants to crank up, but it won't. It actually sounds like it's being flooded. I have spent $900 bucks taking it to a shop; yet they still cannot fix the problem.
    Anyone has any ideas what it maybe?.
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