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Nissan 300ZX



  • I am the original owner of a 1990 300ZX twin turbo with only 35,000 miles. As you might guess from the mileage, I've pampered this car and it is in incredible condition. But because I drive it so infrequently, I'm beginning to question whether the insurance, etc. is worth it. So I'm wondering, if I get up the nerve to sell it, how do I determine an appropriate price, and what is the best way to sell it? I wish I had taken down the information from the dozens of guys who have walked up to me over the years and said, "I you ever want to sell your car...."
  • Ebay quickly comes to mind. I would watch the 300zx listings for a while to get an idea of what your car might bring. Remember, if it is priced right it will sell regardless of condition -- if not, nobody will bid on it. I enjoy looking through the auctions from time to time and have seen a few low mileage Z's pass thru there that might be comparable to yours.

    There are several 300zx forums on the web that might also help you get a feel of your cars value. Google "300zx forums" or "300zx clubs" and things like that to find them. People participating on boards like those are true fans of the car and would likely be the most knowledgeable about what a given car may be worth.

    With an older specialty car in pristine condition like yours, pricing guides like KBB, NADA, etc. are worthless when trying to determine value. For that matter, they are really a joke with modern cars also.

    Good luck with your decision. I wish I were able to seriously consider buying it --- it sounds like a real gem.
  • can anyone tell me where can i get the universal joints? or some one has a webpage where can buy parts i have a 1986 300 zx
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,600
    I'm puzzled. Why do you say "...pricing guides like KBB, NADA...are really a joke with modern cars also"?
  • The guides are out of date and unreliable the day they are printed. Guides do not buy cars. The only reliable indicator of value is what a particular vehicle is bringing at the auctions. Dealers have access to auction data; regular consumers do not. A dealer will not pay you more for your car when they could go to the auction and get the same vehicle for less.

    There are a few good dealers participating in the Real World Trade in Values thread here on Edmunds. They base their appraisals on auction data and are considered to be on spot with their assessments. I am not a dealer myself. If you need more clarification, you may want to direct a question to them in the appropriate forum.
  • My father in law has an 84 300ZX. It was his daughters and she passed away recently. He wants to fix it up but it needs 2 new front fenders. Runs great. Does any one know where you can get after market fenders for this vintage. I have spent hours looking with no success.
  • I just bought a 91' 300ZX Fairlady Z non turbo. It vibrates at abotu 45mph to 60mph even with the clutch in and or out of gear. So most likely its a u-joint, but you cant buy just a u-joint, you need to buy an entire drive shaft. I haved looked every where online but cant seem to find a drive shaft for this car. Does anyone know where I can order one? The only ones they have online are for the turbo models. Can someone plaese help me? :confuse:
  • I'm in the market for a Z32TT. I have a 89 Z31T with near 250K on the ODO. Still runs great but I want to "upgrade." I have been looking and with your mileage, I think you'll be in the $11-$12K range, depending on location. E-mail me at Color, maintenance history, etc...etc. Don't use the e-mail with Edmunds because I almost never open that anymore.
  • I have a 89 ZXT (the Z31 model, not the Z32 you're looking at) and it has just over 250K on the ODO. The turbo is still as strong as ever and there's no smoking at all. It's my daily driver on my 90 mile round trip work commute, so about 98% of those miles are at highway speeds, usually between 65-70. I just maintained the car very well, using mostly the dealer for critical issues and stuffing Mobil-1 since at 15K. Yes, unmaintained, the turbos will go quickly. What kills them is heat combined with gunk in the oil. Regular oil changes with quality oil (synthetic) and they may last forever. Have the turbos checked by a Nissan shop.
  • I believe it's located on the firewall near the battery area.
  • I don't know where you're located but East Coast Z in Chessapeake, VA has a ton of Z31 and Z32 parts. I have been on their yard and it's incredible what collection they have. I don't have his phone number right now, but Google them.
  • gunfighter: I have the same exact problem you have, i have a 1985 300zx, good fuel flow, starter turns the engine strongly , but no fire from the distributor I also changed the coil to no success. did you ever find a solution , if so please share. Or anyone with a solution to this problem please help

  • jon300jon300 Posts: 1, replace the whole unit with single shaft, may be the best mod you'll ever do. forsure use a lift be prepared for alot of snapped bolts (12mm)on heat guards especially.replace the trany mount also($60).if the exhast system is in good condishion its a plus, bring a friend to help.its a bit of a bugger to get the splines to the trany lined up to slip in. over all not a tough project.could never figure why the hell they stuck a tow piece shaft in at all? in reality, the shaft is from a 280Z, or so i'm told by the nismo dude.$200 plus shipping apox. sure makes for a smooth ride! good luck ,jon
  • tvancetvance Posts: 4
    i finaly decided to chase the wires down like the trouble shoting said to do in the chilton i fount out that if you are faceing the car fixing to open the hood when you open the hood on the left behind the battery directly behind it almost under it is the wireing conection that comes from the alt.and comes up to this point then a conection that goes on to the batery and to the electronics on the left under the hood about 34 inches away this or these conections were croded with battery acids and needed cleaning i cleaned and haved had no problem sence if this dont fix call back
  • Thanks for the info , I inspected the wires as you described behind the battery. I also changed the ignition relay, & the ignition moduel, but still have the same problem. the car has started before so i know it runs , it's that from time to time it goes through this not starting problem. Anyother suggestions.


  • Have a 86 300ZX, back window and t-tops need the rubber molding replaced. Does anybody know where to get some? Nissan does not make anymore and no one on the internet car parts shops have it.
  • I don't have the cover for fuse box on the kicker pannel for my 1990 300zx 2+2 non-turbo. I was wondering if anyone had theirs or knew off hand which fuse ran for the drivers window. Thanks (ps anyone need any parts lemme know)
  • z32chicz32chic Posts: 16
    ebay ebay ebay
  • bpuz31bpuz31 Posts: 2
    it could be your TPS there is a plastic piece with a metal strip on it that is glued to the rotating part of the sensor.when you rev it up the throttle opens and the plastic piece stays still and continues to make continuity when it shouldnt be so the computer thinks that the car is only at idle so the engine doesnt get enough fuel.mine did the same thing.i tied some floss arond it.its been wokin since, i never got a new one.
  • i am have this kind of problem with my 96 300 zx when i get to a stop sign or light it shuts off but will start right back up most of the time.
    i stuck and dont know what to do!!
  • is it automatic?does it do it at EVERY stop you come to?only hard stops?if it is auto you might be able to raise the idle..i had an 84 did what yours does
  • mine was doing the same thing....i had popped a tiny vac line off..the one by the 5th would die at a stop sign ...would be fine when i first ran it...and fine driving around...i never even noticed it was check engine light or anything...worth at least checking. good luck
  • I am having a different starting problem with my 91 turbo. Most times it starts fine, but now and then I turn the key and the dash lights come on but nothing else happens. Usually, if I turn the key a few times it starts fine. I have replaced the starter and adjusted the clutch switch, but it still happens now and then. Any ideas? (Of course, it starts fine when AAA shows up or when I take it to a mechanic.)

  • i had same problem replace ignition switch (switch is probably worn like mine was.
  • any one know where can i found a light switch for my 1984 300zx? thanks or if you know some web page to buy used parts for the same car? i have to tab the switch so the ligths come on .i am on florida
  • anne20anne20 Posts: 1
    We have a 1991 300 ZX 2+2 with 43,000 miles. Garage kept. Mint condition.
    Only problem is it is very difficult to shift. Problem started a few hundred miles ago. Any clues?
  • I have a 1985 300zx with the original rims. i know that it is a 4lug x 4.5 bolt pattern. I am trying to find out what the offset is so i can order after market rims for it. Can anyone help me?
  • I have a 84 300zx 2+2 vg30e, and i wanna do the vg30et swap is there anything special i need to do to be able to do the swap or is it even possible to acomplish this.
  • zsformezsforme Posts: 4
    I found a great site which may help you, I have found COMPLETE manuals for my 1985 300Z and have reviewed one for my 1994 300ZX. I have not researched it for my 1971 240 yet. Hope it works for you! :blush:
  • zsformezsforme Posts: 4
    I found on Craigslist a 1996 Nissan 300ZX (non turbo) asking 3500, only 10,000 actual miles. Here is the rub, it has been submerged... The problem the owner is having is that the vehicle starts, runs rough, but dies when accelerated. He is considering all offers as he is out of the state (Alaska) and is ready to just part it out. My question is what might you check given the limited amount of info I have given. PS there is a new gas tank, maf, ecu have been replaced. Any ideas? thanks
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