bad electrical....you prob moved the grounds and wires enough to disrupt them....i had LOADS of issues with just moving wires around and making bad connections...try cleaning them up if it ran prior to the starter failing.
when sitting in nuetral turbo gauge at -7...when given a quick jab on throttle gauge quickly rises to zero, but not above....does this seem normal....car is not ready for road yet.....does it have to be on road to start building positive pressure thanks
Hey Buc, this is Dave (engdocpro). I read that you've scrapped out some Zs. I've got an '86 n-t 2+2 and I'm looking for some parts on the cheep. #1 I need the two struts that hold the hood up. #2, I need 3 hub covers for the standard alloy wheels #3 I need the bottom leather and vinyl seat cover for the drivers side (has to be tan) and OEM #4, I need an Injector cooler relay, the one thats located under the side panel by the left rear seat #5, I need a r/s headlight lift motor (got to be working one) #6, I need the two little knobs that you push up to release the handle on "T" top. Also, any ideas on where to get OEM headliner material (tan). You can reach me at: engdoc39@hotmail.com Thanks
I own a 1986 turbo,I don't think you have a problem.At an idle the guage shows a vacuum of -7 as you hit the acellerater the throttle plate opens thus showing less vac between the plate and the intake,what you should find is that when driving this condition will be noticed as turbo spools and transitions from vac to boost.hope this helps.
your ? 3 the timeing belt is behined your fan protected by a metal case over 2 pullies you cen check the teeth on it but if it comes off line it up with the 1ST spark plug wire in the distributer cap.
i have some extra tubes that came with my swap that are connected to some sensors of some sort don`t know where they go if ANYONE HAS ANY INFORMATION please help!!!!!
Thats not really true, if the drive shaft is not true (out of balance) it will still cause the vibe because it is still spinning. shaft doesn't have to be under a load. best thing to do is to jack up the rear install jack stand under the chassis remove the rear wheel put lugs back on spindle and tighten. Put the car into drive and accelerate above 40 mph. if vibe still exist then drop drive shaft and get yourself a one piece drive shaft. you can take your old shaft to your local machine shop and they will build you one using your old yokes. approximate shop time is 2 hrs plus the price of the tube. Total time it takes me to remove from vehicle and reinstall is 1 hr.
I have recently swapped the engine in my 88 300zx and have been unable to start the car. The security light on the instrument panel flashes continually after the battery is connected, even after the door locks have been cycled (the recommended reset for the system). I know that the security system shuts off the fuel supply to the injectors and that seems to be where the problem is, since I have established that I have spark and all else appears normal. My question is: would having the rear hatch off for paint be the cause of the security system not resetting and therefore shutting down the fuel supply?
I have a 1991 300ZX turbo. Occassionally when I turn the key the dash lights up but nothing else happens. If I turn the key a few times it eventually turns over with no problem. Sometimes it goes months without this happening and then it starts happening daily. I put in a new starter, which seemed to work but didn't. I even tried a new key as the old one was worn down. Again it seemed to work but didn't. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Sorry I can't help you with your problem, but as an owner of a '88 300ZX, non-turbo, I was wondering what prompted you to swap the engine. How many miles did the original engine have?
With 245,000 miles the crankshaft broke. A friend had an engine out of an 86 with 55,000 on it (pulled from his attempt to mate 300ZX and 16 point buck), so after swapping out a few external pieces (pulleys etc) we stuffed it in. Now all I need to do is get that pesky thing to run!!!
I have a 1994 300zx non turbo. Not toooo long ago I broke my timing belt (yeah I know). Anyway I have replaced all necessary parts and tried to start, no go. All my warning lights are on and even with the car unlocked the "security" light stays flashing. on the car will crank, but nothing happens. According to the manual I needed to disconnect the battery so I wouldn't get shocked while removing starter. I am thinking there is an issue with the theft alarm. The car is in great shape, but I don't think I am getting fuel to the injectors. I hear the fuel pump. I also hear a slight squeak that runs as pump starts might be nothing, but??. Does anyone know why all my lights are staying on and why the car is not turning over?
chuck have you tried to reset the alarm with the doors and hood all closed and then lock and unlock the door with the key ? also you may half to reset the codes in the computor or you can try putting it in test mode to see what errors it gives you
I would start by looking into the front braking system,you are probabally getting pulsation from front brake rotors.If you replace rotors also replace pads.also insure that you don't have a brake caliper that is stuck as this would spoil new pads and rotors.from what you are saying this is a very good possibility due to the fact that the wheel shakes while driving down the road as well as when you apply the brakes.
Hey Justin, Yes I have tried what you have suggested except testing the computer. I was told that if you turn car (not start) and disconnect the neg terminal turn car off and reconnect it will reset alarm. didn't work. Called Nissan dealer and he suggested that I touch pos terminal to neg (pos off battery that will reset alarm. I will try the computer idea. are u talking about the ECU? Is it under the floor board on passenger side? Thanks for your reply and help I will let you know what happens.
One thing to look for is the secondary ground on the negative cable behind the battery. If this is not attached it can cause quite a few weird problems,including dying as you come to a stop, because it starts to draw current away from the ECM. Hope this helps.
I have a 1988 300ZX SS (Shiro Model). I am trying to have the Recaro seats either redone or replaced. Anyone have information on a source on the material or is anyone parting out a SS model with the Recaro Seats? Have attempted to reach Recaro but they do not respond. Thanks
I also have a Shiro that we purchased last October. The driver's side seat needs work on the foam and fabric. I emailed Recaro about fabric and they checked with Japan and said that it was no longer available. I haven't been able to come up with a replacement seat either. The best solution I've found so far, is to reupholster both seats in fabrics that are very close to the original. If we do this, we'll have the Recaro embroidery cut out of the back of the seat and sewn into the new fabric. Total cost estimate is around $600.
I am looking at a 1996 300ZX TT. The only concern is the seats, which seem to be tilted inboard. The seller tells me this is the way the car was designed. That seems strange but I have been unable to find anything that confirms or denies this.
I have a 1987 300zx > I bought it brand new but with a family and it being 2 seats I never drive it. It has 42,000 miles and even though I live in PA it has never seen snow. Anyone have an idea what it is worth or where to go to get a price? All original and no body work.
i have a 1985 nissan 300zx non turbo with 111.xxx miles not to bad for an 85 but my question is what can i do to enhance performance and where can i find the parts to do it this car is almost mint condition inside and out i have been trying to sell it all i want is 2500.00 but no takers why. this is a collector item now its in hickory nc craigslist. what do i need to do to give it more pep and how much would it cost Thanks - Cody ">
its me again but i forgot something i have a problem with not starting after i drive the car for a while (30mi) or so its like it gets hot and will not crank i have new plugs,distributor cap rotor button IAC is clean and So is the air injection and fuel injection i also put a new fuel filer on it. what else can i do to prevent this problem. please help and how hard is it to change the lifters in this car 1985 3.0l non turbo 300zx there are 12 lifters i know a little about cars but maybe not enough once again PLEASE HELP
I found a 1990 300zx with manual trans and 59k. Interior is good, but body has dings and bottom of front bumper is broken off but there. It looks like it may have been damaged and repaired right front as front hood gap narrows and paint has a different texture. Bumper is yellow plastic. is that original material/color? Plastic looks aged like it was outside. Supposedly came from Texas. Would need some body work and a repaint to make right. BUT:
The real problem is that upon starting it, it sounds like one or 2 cylinders are not firing at all. The owner jockeys cars, and I think he is trying to dump this one. He bought it this way. I suspect he knows it's not a simple problem as he has been through an auto tech course. Claims he put Seafoam through it and it helped. Also says it smoothes out when you drive it. I didn't drive it as I didn't believe him. There are no unusual noises. Could it just be injectors or electronics? Exhausts are both burning black. Clutch is solid.
Is this a common problem? Anyone have any ideas what the problem is? He just put $600 worth of new BFG tires on it. Any idea what this car would be worth considering it's problems? Could be a money pit.
I have a 1992 300ZX, the tail lights stay on all the time even when the car is off. I have checked all the fuses and changed all the bulbs. Does anybody know the solution to this?
Sounds like magic. Mabe it's haunted. See a priest and have it exorcised. ;-)
Is it tail lights or brake lights? Are the front parking lights on? Do the tail lights get brighter when you apply the brake? If no, maybe it is the brake light switch.
Hey all! I just purchased a used 1986 300zx turbo 5spd. It runs great but always on the second startup. The first time I start it, especially in the mornings, it idles rough and stalls. Runs fine on second start after giving it a lil gas. It even does it when the engine is warm and has been running at running temp. Say I go to the store. In there for 5-10 min. I come out and start the car, it sputters and dies. I start it up again and give a little gas and presto! I'm just trying to figure out what could cause this. Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance! -Matt
My '88 Z31 2+2 finally died at 198,640 miles. The manual transmission gave out, of all things, but it has other needs as well. Bottom line is that, although the engine, body and interior are in good shape considering mileage and age, the cost of making the other repairs required to put it in usable shape exceed the value of the car by a significant amount.
Although this car has always been very well maintained and never abused, age and mileage have conspired to end its useful life. If I can't sell it as a project or parts car, I'll donate or scrap it.
FYI, I sold my '88 300ZX 2+2 for $495 from Craigslist. Someone who has a '87 2+2 will use the parts from that car to replace the parts on my '88 that wouldn't pass inspection. The good things on my car were the engine, straight body without rust, clean and well kept leather interior, four new tires (two had not yet been mounted), cold A/C and T-top that doesn't leak.
I was glad to sell it to someone who will drive it.
I just purchased this car about a hour ago. Drove it home about a hour ride ,but the car seems to be running hot . Were the cool and hot are normally it should be in the middle and this is very close to the hot . Anyone know what this could be? :confuse:
Radiator would be a prime suspect. My 1988 300ZX (naturally aspirated) went through three of them, including the original. It was a low maintenance car overall, though.
Comments
thanks
Good luck with getting your Z back on the road.
thanks,
Chuck
Yes I have tried what you have suggested except testing the computer. I was told that if you turn car (not start) and disconnect the neg terminal turn car off and reconnect it will reset alarm. didn't work. Called Nissan dealer and he suggested that I touch pos terminal to neg (pos off battery that will reset alarm. I will try the computer idea. are u talking about the ECU? Is it under the floor board on passenger side? Thanks for your reply and help I will let you know what happens.
Thanks
www.xenonz31.com/files/fuel.injector.service.campaign.pdf
what do i need to do to give it more pep and how much would it cost
Thanks - Cody
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what else can i do to prevent this problem.
please help
and how hard is it to change the lifters in this car 1985 3.0l non turbo 300zx there are 12 lifters i know a little about cars but maybe not enough once again
PLEASE HELP
The real problem is that upon starting it, it sounds like one or 2 cylinders are not firing at all. The owner jockeys cars, and I think he is trying to dump this one. He bought it this way. I suspect he knows it's not a simple problem as he has been through an auto tech course. Claims he put Seafoam through it and it helped. Also says it smoothes out when you drive it. I didn't drive it as I didn't believe him. There are no unusual noises. Could it just be injectors or electronics? Exhausts are both burning black. Clutch is solid.
Is this a common problem? Anyone have any ideas what the problem is? He just put $600 worth of new BFG tires on it. Any idea what this car would be worth considering it's problems? Could be a money pit.
Thank you,
Is it tail lights or brake lights? Are the front parking lights on? Do the tail lights get brighter when you apply the brake? If no, maybe it is the brake light switch.
Although this car has always been very well maintained and never abused, age and mileage have conspired to end its useful life. If I can't sell it as a project or parts car, I'll donate or scrap it.
I was glad to sell it to someone who will drive it.
Please let us know what you find.