anyone live in scottsdale, az? i'm coming to visit this weekend. i'll be flying into phx around 3 today and checking out around 3 on sunday. see ya'll monday
No way i like mine. I did find some cool ones though. Remove to tow ford was a good one.
Word of caution be careful the lock for it will show some signs of rusting i think im gonna get a new one soon. It has small spots of rust not visible unless you really get down and look at it.
Z82 trailering package was a separate option on my 2500HD. Z85 was standard equipment. I can't imagine anyone buying a 2500 and not getting both, so they should just make them both standard?
Does anyone know if there is a way to program the interior lights to come on when you open the door of these trucks? Seems weird that the only way they come on is when you hit the unlock button? I would assume this is programmable, but I didn't see anything in the manual? Maybe if I program the stupid auto locking thing at 5mph, then they will be forced to come on when I turn the engine off? I don't know, just seems weird. Wish they just came on and stayed on as long as the door was open.
Is there a way to prevent the headlights from coming on at night (automatically) when you start it? I have a Y2K 2500 LT. Only way I know is to hit the over ride button 4 times real quick to kill the lights - must be a better way?
To the guy who asked about the extended warranty.....
1. In my opinion, I would not buy the warranty at time of purchase unless you get a REALLY good deal. A good deal is GM Major Guard 6 yr / 100,000 bumper to bumper, zero deduct from anywhere between $800 to $1400. That price is low and you probably won't be offered that deal. The price you will be offered is going to be around $1895 for the above coverage. Anything above that is too much. You can get a custom plan at lower prices.......Before you buy the warranty post the price here and let the guys take a look.
2. Another idea is to wait until your truck has some miles before you buy the warranty. The price should be the same up until the 36,000 factory warranty expires. The idea here is that you may trade or sell the truck; you may wreck; you may have a lemon law issue, etc. But if you do purchase a warranty, you can usually get a credit if the above occurs.
3. Check into a third party warranty company--they're usually cheaper. However, I don't recommed this method. The GM warranty will usually cover more, but the drawback is you have to take the truck to the GM dealer unlike a third party warranty.
My suggestion would be to wait and decide on a warranty during the factory warranty period. The reasoning here is that GM, in some cases, will give consumers warranties for defects they can't fix. Based on their track record, and based on the type truck you buy, you may have a defect. Hopefully not, but you never know. I got one because of a defect so I know they will do it. It was also pretty easy to obtain.
Some guys here don't believe in warranties...and I agree with their arguments. However, I am an insurance type guy so I always have an extended warranty. Chances are you'll never need the coverage.
If I remember correctly, my headlights wouldn't come on when I had the emergency brake on. I think the dash/head lights popped on as soon as I release the emer brake.
Erik - I don't want the tire changes but have been told I have to have them if I go through WA state passes when they have a chains requirement in effect (regardless of the vehicle type). I ski so I better have them.
You are lucky, they actually have snow removal eqpt in Alaska. Many of us here in the states end up driving thru multfoot deep snow regularly, or glare ice due to freeze/thaw cycles.
Plus if you get in the backcountry anywhere there are hills and snow, chains are great!
Ryan, I haven't actually tried the button, but it wasn't pressed in, so I figured it wasn't the problem. Should have checked that first I guess. I'll check it tonight.
John, the other way to defeat the lights from ever coming on is to put the emergency brake on a little bit, before you start the engine. It used to be easy with the brakes that had positive clicks to just put it in one click, which wouldn't clamp the brake, just trip the switch. With this smooth continuous pedal, it might be harder to trip the switch without actually driving around with the brake grabbing a little. I suppose you could use the break at start up and then push the button 4 times, and then release the break, but that is even more work than just pushing the damn button 4 times! DRL's are a great idea, but the manufacturers have left much to be desired on their implementation. Then again, if they gave us a simple button to defeat them, no one would leave them on ever. The first generation that use the high beams and don't have the automatic headlight sensors are the worst! At least they have improved since then.
Hey, is werking still around? Like a fool, instead of downloading his pictures of all the zerk locations, I just bookmarked the site. Now the bookmark isn't working anymore? If anyone has the pictures I'd appreciate them. Thanks
It basically says that if Chains Required signs are posted on the passes, 4-WD or All-WD vehicles are exempt from using chains, if you have approved traction tires and driving with all hubs in gear. However, you must carry chains because the WA State patrol may ask you to put them on, if they feel the conditions warrant.
I've never been asked to put chains on a 4x4 when traveling over any WA pass when Chains Required signs were posted. If the time ever comes when the conditions require me to put chains on a 4x4 to go over a pass, I may just turn around and go home.
I drive with the trip odemeter on, check the milage occasionally. The change oil light came on yesterday with 5500 miles on the Mobile one synthetic 5w-30. But the light just goes off of a rpm/hrs/speed/ect. equation in the computer. It has nothing to do with the actual oil. But I was planning on changing in a week or so anyways. I didn't want to go past 6k, maybe 6.5 even with mobile one. Even though the trucks are rated to go up to 7500 with standard oil I would never try that. My truck averages 29.5 mph and I have about 450 hours on the truck since March. Im gonna put well over 600 hours a year on the truck. We only put 250 on the tractor or combine a year. Oh well.
What part of North Dakota are you from? I grew up in Helena Montana. My parents are from Regent and Dickinson ND. I make it back there every couple of years to see my grandparents. Pretty long drive from Seattle.
Mandan, ND is where I grew up. Right next door to Bismarck. Normally I fly, but I'm itchy to drive, want to take my 9mo german shepherd with, and want to see the looks on Mom&Dad's faces when I drive up and ring the doorbell, unannounced.
I have around 3700. The farthest I've taken it is between Santa Barbara and Los Angeles. For long trips, we usually take my dads. I think his is around 12,000
Good point about the wiring. I didn't even think of that. Made me go down and look. The wire, looks like 2 of them, comes from under the dash, left side, above the hood release. Between the kick plate and the dash is two wiring bundles. In the bundle closest to the rear, they spliced into the grey and brown wires. Then it runs through the floorboard to the rear above the receiver, through a hole in the tailgate. I believe when they installed the lock, all they had to do was remove the three bolts behind the tailgate handle and use the existing holes and bolts. Clear as mud? Now I have to make a quick disconnect at the tailgate so I can remove my tailgate when needed.
A large item like a refrigerator would just slide in on a bedrug like normal. It is installed with velcro fasteners for easy removal of the bedrug itself; removing the velcro fasteners shouldn't damage any paint.
The bedrug has a nice waterproof carpet over nice thick waterproof foam (on the bottom). The foam doesn't easily bend, so sliding things doesn't cause the bedrug to move at all.
In my opinion it is a really nice liner. Doesn't protect as well as a duraliner perhaps, but it does protect somewhat, unlike those fake "spray in" liners that are nothing more than cosmetic. It's kind of like a cross between a duraliner and a carpet kit. Works great for hauling things (they don't slide), carrying my dogs (they don't slide), camping (you can sleep in there very comfortably without extra padding or a mattress) or surfing (the carpet keeps the ocean water off the paint).
Input wires to the Bazooka tap in to the rear speaker wires that run under the drivers door sill. I ran main power to the battery through the firewall wire gasket thing (a slight pain); someone else said they tapped into the trailer wiring at the fuse box. I also ran the optional "power on" wire to the radio's "power on" signal wire so it would work with retained power. You could use the signal-sensor for power-on to the Bazooka, but the optional wire works better and alows a switch to be installed on the dash to turn the Bazooka on or off. I mounted the switch next to the air-bag switch in the dash (under my power rear window switch).
The Bedrug does attach with adhesive strips that have velcro on them. The strips are attached around the top under the ledge of the bed. As far as taking paint off I don't know for sure but I would think that they wouldn't.
I had a rubber mat in my bed before I got the Bedrug so I put it back in on top of the Bedrug to give a little more protection. I've never slid anything in or out on the Bedrug. The bottom Is made to fit the ridges in the bed. I don't think it would slid much if any.
information. Now I need to find a good price on the net - these things seem to cost more than the drop in liners. I had a Rhino liner in a previous truck - it was OK, but I don't want to destroy the painted finish on my new truck's bed. Also, the Rhino required periodic maintenance, and it showed stains on the finish that wouldn't come out. If I were going to haul bleeding dead deer in my bed - I guess I would go for a drop in. So far, just the occasional live stray cat has been in there.
Ryan when I was driving by a small dealer in Sanger Tx Thursday. Saw your truck sitting out on the front row. A Indigo Blue 2001 Chevy HD 4X4 (couldn't tell if it was a Z71 or not) GREAT LOOKING truck. Probably had either the 6.0 or 8.1 the last time I talked to them they weren't Certified to sell and service the Duramax.
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Comments
anyone live in scottsdale, az? i'm coming to visit this weekend. i'll be flying into phx around 3 today and checking out around 3 on sunday. see ya'll monday
bco
Word of caution be careful the lock for it will show some signs of rusting i think im gonna get a new one soon. It has small spots of rust not visible unless you really get down and look at it.
Ryan
2000 blazer 4x4 LT 4.3 V-6 12.5mpg a little over a yr old (10,000 mls)
Ryan
(this is for all of you contemplating getting the V-6 vs the V-8)
Ryan
Does anyone know if there is a way to program the interior lights to come on when you open the door of these trucks? Seems weird that the only way they come on is when you hit the unlock button? I would assume this is programmable, but I didn't see anything in the manual? Maybe if I program the stupid auto locking thing at 5mph, then they will be forced to come on when I turn the engine off? I don't know, just seems weird. Wish they just came on and stayed on as long as the door was open.
Mine when you open the door the lights go on. They wont if the dome over ride is selected
Ryan
John
I have a couple of friends that that I could have a little fun with that drive F250SD's and Expeditions.
John
Ive seen it at local auto parts places ill look online and post a link if i find one
Ryan
It was not in the very next catalog from them. I suspect Ford was not happy with that use of their name.
But, my dad really likes it!!
Mike L
So, I have an aftermarket 10,000 lb hitch (1200 lb tongue weight) installed, and I like it better than the factory hitch.
I also couldn't order the aux. battery, so I had to install that after delivery.
Sometimes the GM ordering system is a little screwed up.
Mike L
Roger did you try the button to see if it was off? let me know if it worked
Ryan
http://www.gmsupplierdiscount.com/
All the rules are listed. You can use the old GM card rebates with the GMS discount - I did. You cannot use the new GM card rebates.
I don't know about other rebates.
Mike L
Total mls i only look at when i fill up to reocrd that down.
Whats everyone engine hr meters at? Last wk mine was at 337
Ryan
I also leave my trip OD displayed
Mark
1. In my opinion, I would not buy the warranty at time of purchase unless you get a REALLY good deal. A good deal is GM Major Guard 6 yr / 100,000 bumper to bumper, zero deduct from anywhere between $800 to $1400. That price is low and you probably won't be offered that deal. The price you will be offered is going to be around $1895 for the above coverage. Anything above that is too much. You can get a custom plan at lower prices.......Before you buy the warranty post the price here and let the guys take a look.
2. Another idea is to wait until your truck has some miles before you buy the warranty. The price should be the same up until the 36,000 factory warranty expires. The idea here is that you may trade or sell the truck; you may wreck; you may have a lemon law issue, etc. But if you do purchase a warranty, you can usually get a credit if the above occurs.
3. Check into a third party warranty company--they're usually cheaper. However, I don't recommed this method. The GM warranty will usually cover more, but the drawback is you have to take the truck to the GM dealer unlike a third party warranty.
My suggestion would be to wait and decide on a warranty during the factory warranty period. The reasoning here is that GM, in some cases, will give consumers warranties for defects they can't fix. Based on their track record, and based on the type truck you buy, you may have a defect. Hopefully not, but you never know. I got one because of a defect so I know they will do it. It was also pretty easy to obtain.
Some guys here don't believe in warranties...and I agree with their arguments. However, I am an insurance type guy so I always have an extended warranty. Chances are you'll never need the coverage.
Good luck
John
-smikes
-smikes
(website is www.performanceproducts.com)
Thanks,
John
I relaly like the fascia piaa i think makes it.
Ryan
Plus if you get in the backcountry anywhere there are hills and snow, chains are great!
John, the other way to defeat the lights from ever coming on is to put the emergency brake on a little bit, before you start the engine. It used to be easy with the brakes that had positive clicks to just put it in one click, which wouldn't clamp the brake, just trip the switch. With this smooth continuous pedal, it might be harder to trip the switch without actually driving around with the brake grabbing a little. I suppose you could use the break at start up and then push the button 4 times, and then release the break, but that is even more work than just pushing the damn button 4 times! DRL's are a great idea, but the manufacturers have left much to be desired on their implementation. Then again, if they gave us a simple button to defeat them, no one would leave them on ever. The first generation that use the high beams and don't have the automatic headlight sensors are the worst! At least they have improved since then.
Also for the first time a few wks ago i found out i had cargo lights. The cargo light display was on the message center.
Wow i learn something new each day i hit it instead of the fog lights on accident
Ryan
and Ryan....read a little ahead of your post and you will see I DID mention the plug before you....
- Tim
Thats his new site
Hope it helps
Sorry tim i must have skimmed over it my fault i apologize.
Ryan
http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/faq.cfm?Faqtoopen=Winter+Driving&x=8&y=8#31
It basically says that if Chains Required signs are posted on the passes, 4-WD or All-WD vehicles are exempt from using chains, if you have approved traction tires and driving with all hubs in gear. However, you must carry chains because the WA State patrol may ask you to put them on, if they feel the conditions warrant.
I've never been asked to put chains on a 4x4 when traveling over any WA pass when Chains Required signs were posted. If the time ever comes when the conditions require me to put chains on a 4x4 to go over a pass, I may just turn around and go home.
-David
- Tim
-smikes
Hunter
Ryan
-smikes
Go over to Pacific Audio and ask Neil how he was able to override his headlights. He's now able to turn them on and off whenever he wants.
www.pacific-audio.com/performance-discussion.html
Ryan,
I still like to change the oil every 3000 with Mobil 1. Engine Meter 115
Nick
Ryan
I grew up in Helena Montana. My parents are from Regent and Dickinson ND. I make it back there every couple of years to see my grandparents. Pretty long drive from Seattle.
-David
Ryan
-smikes
Especially with your puppy
The real bad thing is when i move out my mom and dad say they are following me. That cant be a good thing
I say im leaving no forwarding address
-smikes
Nick
The wire, looks like 2 of them, comes from under the dash, left side, above the hood release. Between the kick plate and the dash is two wiring bundles. In the bundle closest to the rear, they spliced into the grey and brown wires. Then it runs through the floorboard to the rear above the receiver, through a hole in the tailgate.
I believe when they installed the lock, all they had to do was remove the three bolts behind the tailgate handle and use the existing holes and bolts.
Clear as mud?
Now I have to make a quick disconnect at the tailgate so I can remove my tailgate when needed.
Yes, I drive with the trip meter on.
Delco Filter
Chevy Filter
what's the difference!
quit being so picky!
I'm outa here........band is playing at local bar......
- Tim
The bedrug has a nice waterproof carpet over nice thick waterproof foam (on the bottom). The foam doesn't easily bend, so sliding things doesn't cause the bedrug to move at all.
In my opinion it is a really nice liner. Doesn't protect as well as a duraliner perhaps, but it does protect somewhat, unlike those fake "spray in" liners that are nothing more than cosmetic. It's kind of like a cross between a duraliner and a carpet kit. Works great for hauling things (they don't slide), carrying my dogs (they don't slide), camping (you can sleep in there very comfortably without extra padding or a mattress) or surfing (the carpet keeps the ocean water off the paint).
Richard
Richard
I had a rubber mat in my bed before I got the Bedrug so I put it back in on top of the Bedrug to give a little more protection. I've never slid anything in or out on the Bedrug. The bottom Is made to fit the ridges in the bed. I don't think it would slid much if any.
Billy
rwagoner answered your question very good.
I had a Rhino liner in a previous truck - it was OK, but I don't want to destroy the painted finish on my new truck's bed. Also, the Rhino required periodic maintenance, and it showed stains on the finish that wouldn't come out. If I were going to haul bleeding dead deer in my bed - I guess I would go for a drop in. So far, just the occasional live stray cat has been in there.
Richard Mc