Chevy Silverado - Continued XVII

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Comments

  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    Ryan and others, how closely does your wade caps match the tailgate guard in color and what did you pay for them? Local Chevy parts dept. quoted me $160 for the GM rail caps (and $28.57 a pair for the molded splash guards).

    -smikes
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    The 2500 (6.0L) also gets a 10.5"(full floater) 14 bolt when equipped with a manual trans. Auto trans gets the smaller 14 bolt.

    Mike L
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    Do my eyes deceive me or did you have the lip of your rail caps sprayed?

    -smikes
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    Thanks for the info guys.
    I just filled it to the bottom of the fill hole - can't fill it no more than that. Driven 100+ miles since doing it and the rear hasn't failed yet so must be okay. :)

    John
  • bcobco Member Posts: 756
    smikes -
    your eyes deceive you. my rail caps were put on AFTER i had the bed sprayed. i took that picture to show how the rails and liner work so well together. oh, and it just so happens that they look almost identical too. ;)

    bco
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    Thanks guys. That's exactly the info I needed!

    John
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Ok took it in this afternoon. Seens its normal so they say. I know its a removable tailgate but when you lower it it shouldnt completely come off should it? Well they ordered a part to replace the right side with. its like the one on the left i think it will make it not removable unless a few screws are removed. Also my tailgate has become alot looser and they are going to fix that when the parts come in.

    I kinda (25% sure) someone might have tried to steal it cause there was half a hand print on the tailgate last night i notcied after it happened. They must have been pretty stupid to not know how to take it off.

    Also im having AOL difficulties so i wont be around much. Really pissing me off. I cant sign on my computer. BCO a little suggestion dont get AOL 6.0 since i installed that all heck has broke loose with my whole computer. Hopefully middle of this month to the end ill have AT&T cable my dad is scheduling installation asap.

    Ryan
  • 99crewcab199crewcab1 Member Posts: 79
    I thought that your bed caps had the line-x on the sides also. thats a pretty tight combo.

    Nick
  • 99crewcab199crewcab1 Member Posts: 79
    I put a hose clamp around the right side of the tailgate where it meets the side of the truck. It's a cheap theft deterrent.

    Nick
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    didn't you know that AOL 6.0 is the continuing war between Steve and Bill and control over IE 5.5 and Windows....and obviously your computer...AOL? who needs that? Only inexperienced users want to know...LOL!!
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    AOL blows. I am dumping it asap.

    My theft deterrant device would be to just weld the darn thing on

    Ryan

    WADE BEDRAIL CAPS - Top texture is a wavelike design. 3 small humps. They are basically the same color as the tail gate protector ( i am assuming the whale fin one)

    Ryan
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    My Silverado Z-71 with 3.73 locker took 4 quarts and it still was not up to the bottom of the hole. I know the correct level is 15 - 40 MM below but how can you measure this? I did over fill it a little, because if I check the level when hot it is above the bottom of the filler hole (fluid starts to leak out before I get the plug off). I can't see where this would cause a problem. Unless you count getting gear oil on your driveway.
  • fortopfortop Member Posts: 239
    power bolt tailgate lock, the whole thing is inside the tailgate - you run the wire out of a hole in the bottom of the tailgate, attach a quick disconnect for when you want to remove the tailgate. Installation is by taking out the bolts holding the handle from the inside of the tailgate, remove the handle, slide the power bolt in between the walls of the tailgate and route the wire out the bottom, replace the handle, hook up the wire under the dash (with the power door lock circuit) - done deal. I will probably install one in the future. Above information is from someone who did not actually install one - value of this information -$.02.
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    I looked at the pics and it reminds me of my 89 S-15! Same number and location. Some were really hard to access but hopefully my new Sierra will have more room to work on. I considered some 90 degree fittings, but my concern was that when snugged down they would be facing the wrong direction. I really wish there was a better way to lube than zerks. My biggest problem was grease squirting out the sides of the nozzle instead of going inside. Two quick questions... Do the skid plates need to come off like on my S-15? Also, there seem to be different types of synthetic lube. Which is best? My S-15 has been lubed with synthetic since new and the front end is still tight at 111k miles, so I'm sticking with syn.
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    Do you still need to use the little bottle of additive with the 2001 limited slip differentials? No mention in the owner's manual and I don't have a Helm yet. My 89 S-15 required the use of this additive. This is also being converted to synthetic. What is the correct weight for Alaska type conditions? As for capacity, I'll just keep pumping til it comes out! I have a 5.3, auto, 3.73 and limited slip. Also, how do most people get the old fluid out...suck it out or pop the pumpkin. I prefer the latter so I can drain it completely and take a quick look.
  • jimdahl225jimdahl225 Member Posts: 4
    I need your help guys. I had a fairly large rubber bumper come off under my dash. It apparently has something to do with the emergency brake pedal - stops it from hitting when released. I cannot find where it goes back! This thing is about 3/4" in diameter and maybe 3/4" long with a pointed end and a slot where it goes into a hole apparently. There is a hole on the brake pedal but I cannot tell how to orient the rubber bumper to put it back in. Does it go in from the right or left? Would appreciate any help. Thanks!
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    My local dealer has 5 HD's now for anyone interested:

    http://www.heidebreicht.com/

    Talk to Pat Thomas and tell him Tim told you to call him.

    All LS's...all Ext. cabs

    White 6.0 Short Box Duelly 3500
    Grey 6.0 Long Box
    Black 6.0 short box
    Grey 6.0 Short Box
    and a Pewter 8.1/Allison with 4:10's

    ...guess which one I drove tonight?

    8.1 was nice...but not overly impressive...Tranny leaves something to be desired..but I realize it's a truck tranny....the overall ride was better than my 8600 GVW.......whoduthunk 9200 GVW would be smoother?

    Salesman said he just saw a 40 minute training video for salesman about how the Allison clunks and whines....and that it's normal......he can just see all the problems already.....If GM was smart....they would stick a copy of that in every glove box of an Allison they sell....

    Too bad the 8.1 isn't available with the reg. auto trans........a manual is not my style.....if I have a manual...it's gonna be a sports car with tons of HP behind it

    ...on a another note....was it Quad that prasied about having 30K miles on the original wheel weights?

    Before my two trips hunting.....I decided to have the wheels balanced and front end aligned.....had about 24K miles......it seemed perfect before....but after...ohhhhh what a change.....tires were off 1/2 - 1 ounce....but at highway speeds..it makes a true difference....

    yak yak yak

    - Tim
  • blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    Sorry this isn't in sequence, but those who are contemplating the move....STOP!

    Read this link first before you do.
    http://www.winmag.com/columns/explorer/2000/25.htm

    AOL modifies Windows system files in such a way as to cause instability problems.
    matthew
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I told ya the war between Steve and Bill still rages. Talk about screwin ya...changes windows files. Who the hell gave Steve permission to do that...
  • rwagonerrwagoner Member Posts: 338
    I thought Winblows itself was an instability problem. How would one tell the difference if AOL modified it? Would it crash 6 times a day instead of just 5?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Have three systems running Win Me. 866 Mhz only one to crash so far after loading AOL 6.0 for the kids. My personal preference is cable modem and IE 5.5 so far. Tried several other browsers but I guess they don't have the support and money like Bill. How could Netscape compete against IE when MS gave it away free. This is not the best platform as I believe Linux may be more stable especially with Big Blue backing them, but for now guess I'm stuck with Bill.
  • kalwoodkalwood Member Posts: 17
    In response to z71bill's post (#431) about what the problems with overfilling the differential would be.

    With any container the problem is pressure. When the stuff inside heats up it expands. This is why when cold it doesn't come out of the whole and when hot it does. This increases the internal pressure, the pressure increase will be even greater if a vapor is formed, think boiler. This pressure could cause the seal to leak or to be blown. When I was young a dealer overfilled the oil on my Honda, within a couple miles it had blown a seal on the head. Fortunately it was just a rubber plug I was able to put back in and drive back to the dealer. Imagine, they tried to deny it. It took about five minutes to convince them otherwise. But now I check the level before I drive away.

    15 MM is a little more than 1/2 an inch (0.6) and 40 MM is 1 1/2 (1.6) inches. 25.4 MM = 1 inch.

    Filling to the bottom of the fill hole is probably acceptable. Any engineer worth his/her salt would have designed the differential so that on a level surface you couldn't get enough oil in there to blow the seals. But they've screwed up before.

    KALW
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    To answer the questions on the rug, once the velcro strips are installed in the bed, the rug WON'T move, and those strips stay in place well, I had a heck of a time removing them out of my '00 'rado, to reinstall the rug in my '01. It doesn't cause any damage to the paint either.

    As for the emblems and any stickers, I used a heat gun, got them warmed up real good and they peeled right off- no adhesive left on the truck.

    I, myself, prefer the clean, uncluttered look. Graphics and stripes tend to date the vehicle. My opinion.
    Has anyone seen the new composite beds on the Silverado in person? I haven't, just curious.
  • roger350roger350 Member Posts: 157
    Fortop,
    Thanks for the info.

    Now who saw these for $79, and where?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    More like CHAOS

    Ryan
  • xringxring Member Posts: 129
    No pressure problems in the rear differential - there is a vent tube for this reason. Tube should come off a fitting on or near the top of the pumpkin and the "loose" end is held to the bottom of the bed by a hose clamp fixture to keep it away from water, etc.

    F.Y.I.

    John
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Can be a real problem. Moving the gears through oil takes power and generates heat. Adding more oil makes the problems worse.

    A properly designed differential will throw most of the oil into a channel that causes the oil to run back onto the gears. Too much oil will cause the gears to have to churn through a pool of oil. If you don't think it will take much power to push the gears through the oil, think again. It takes less horsepower to run the AC on a hot day than to push the rear gears through excess oil.

    You will only lose 0.1-0.2 mpg max. It's not a big loss, but a real one.

    Overfilling (slightly - to the fill hole) is much better than underfilling the final drive.

    Mike L
  • smikessmikes Member Posts: 130
    Anybody notice buzz/vibration when listening to music at moderate (not ear bleedin') levels. I was playing Lenny Kravitz' Greatest Hits last night and it sounded like part of the door panels or speaker mount assemblies were buzzing/vibrating. Any home brewed fixes out there?

    -smikes
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    I left this post in another forum, but thought I might get a better response here. I have had my 2001 Silverado 2WD 5.3 Ext Cab almost three weeks now. Here’s my problem/question. The truck has a slight lean on one side. I noticed it at work on a paved parking lot but didn't notice it at home since my driveway isn't paved. Next day, took a tape measurer to work and the right side, both front and rear, sits a little over an inch higher than the left side. Took it back to the dealership last week and the service department checked it out, didn't know the exact reason why and stated it was a "body" problem, so since they don't have a body shop at this dealership, would have to contract it out to a body shop. Someone at work knew someone that had a similar problem years ago and mentioned the left side could be missing a "spacer" or "shim". It sits exactly the same on one side on the front and rear, not just rear. Difference is a little over an inch on one side, front and rear both. It doesn't bother the ride, it drives great, and the alignment is also great as I can let go of the steering wheel and it drives straight. It looks a lot more prominent when sitting in a parking lot, more than an inch, but that's what it is. Again, had a friend tell me he thought it may be lacking a
    "spacer" or "shim". In the other forum, someone mentioned adjusting the torsion bar. I'm going to wait a couple more weeks and mull it over, but I'd be interested in hearing more thoughts on this. If it was just the one portion of the front or the rear it might be a little easier to pinpoint. The inch difference "is" with a full tank of gas. Please let me know what y'all think. Thanks. Barry
  • kieschnickkieschnick Member Posts: 4
    The hole that this bumper goes into is not on the emergency brake pedal itself. Follow the swing of the brake pedal up under the dash and there is a hole where the stopper should reside. The mounting platform for this bumper is about a 1" sqaure piece of metal with a hole in the center of it for the pointed end of the stopper to be inserted. A little drop of super glue will prevent this from happening again.

    Hope that helped....

    /rk
  • mpalombompalombo Member Posts: 186
    stobar, Where were you measuring to? I assume the bottom of the body. If so then try measuring to the frame. This will tell you if it is the body or something in the suspension. Since the truck drives good I would guess that it is the body since I would imagine that a 1 inch difference in the suspension would cause it to drive pretty badly. If it is the body then don't adjust the torsion bars, that will lift the frame.
  • stobarstobar Member Posts: 110
    I was measuring from the wheelwell to the ground. It is definitely in the body, not the suspension.
    Barry
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    I would bet it is the frame/suspension that is causing your truck to lean to one side. All it takes is one weak spring, and that side is going to go down a little.

    With the frames on these trucks being so much stiffer than the previous frames, both the front and back will sag together.

    If it were really just the body leaning, while the frame is level, then the body mounts would have to be either left out or totally collapsed on one side - neither is very likely.

    As others have commented, it is not unusual to find trucks that list to one side or the other. Nor is it a problem, just cosmetic. It will still drive and function normally. The truck is about 80" wide, a 1" lean is less than 0.75 degrees of lean. I wouldn't like it if my truck leaned like that. But it isn't always easy to fix either. You can change springs, but which end? And if you change both ends, and the problem doesn't change, did you install the same variation in springs again.

    The only real good way to troubleshoot is to change the springs on one end from side to side. Then, if the lean goes the other way, then you know where the problem lies. Then you can replace the weaker spring. If that doesn't help, take the spring you removed and put it on the other side.

    You'll probably find that 1" of lean is within factory tolerances, and GM won't cover it under warranty. If your dealer won't pay for it, you may have to.

    Good Luck,

    Mike L
  • mblrdsmblrds Member Posts: 41
    You'll see in one of the bullet(ed) points that no special additive is needed.

    http://torquecontrol.eaton.com/prodinfo/products/index.html

    Hope this answers your question.
    M.
  • redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    ya'll gotta go to www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman
    and check out Tim's pics. finally, we get to see
    what he really looks like.

    red
  • fortopfortop Member Posts: 239
    http://www.realtruck.com/Ordering/OrderExtras.asp#PT. I see this product advertised under different names (Pop & Lock, Power Bolt, etc.) but they look like all the same thing. This site has a $76 price. Has anybody bought one of these through Car Parts? I have not seen it advertised there, but they might be able to get it. Also, I have not seen any more coupons for Car Parts in any of my automotive magazines lately. Are they still doing the 30% off thing?
  • fortopfortop Member Posts: 239
    http://www.tonnocover.com/Ordering/OrderExtras.asp#PT
  • fortopfortop Member Posts: 239
    http://www.ustruckaccessorieswhse.com/pop-lock.html
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    ...actualy that's Ryan girlfriend!

    LOL

    (just kidding)

    - Tim
  • sdpiersonsdpierson Member Posts: 69
    Fortop explained the Powerbolt installation very good. It does not sit outside at all. It is inside the tailgate. If you look up inside the tailgate handle, there is a lever on the left side that pushes down when you lift the handle. The Powerbolt blocks the lever from going down.
    I purchased the Powerbolt through my local "Truck Tops USA" store in Calif.
    Price was $79 including installation.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    image

    - Tim
  • fortopfortop Member Posts: 239
    me that the power tailgate lock is "not available." Of course, past experience with CarParts causes me to believe that you can get different responses from different representatives at CarParts.
    Tonnocover.com is the current winner with $75.19 with no shipping, but $76 at realtruck.com also.
    Getting it installed for $79 is certainly a ganga.
  • sdpiersonsdpierson Member Posts: 69
    It was $79.99 to be exact.

    "Ganga"??????
    What the heck is that?
  • 99crewcab199crewcab1 Member Posts: 79
    Nice Tim.
    I've had enough beer for the next week. It was a friends Bday yesterday, so a whole bunch us partied and then went to a girly club. I think I had 4 beers, half a 40, and some bacardie crap. I was kinda sick this morning. I had to go to math, but really didn't want too. My digital camera should be here tomorrow. I have to take some pics of my truck.

    Nick
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    No, you dufe...it's 35,000 miles now on those original wheel weights. I don't DARE let anyone touch them. Did they mess yours up when they balanced?

    What's wrong with the Allison tranny?

    My dealer, (Burt) has at least 25 heavys in stock, some with 8.1, none with Duramax.
  • mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    no....but while you may think they are still fine....wait until you have them re-done....

    - Tim
  • roger350roger350 Member Posts: 157
    Joe and Sean, thanks for all the information. $79.99 installed is almost worth a drive to California! But, I don't want to pull a, "Ryan," so I'll just buy it and install it myself. Thanks guys.
  • roger350roger350 Member Posts: 157
    Can someone with a Helms manual post or e-mail me the schematics for the ignition systems in the 99-01 Silverados/Sierras?

    I have a 2001, and I'm holding off on buying the helms manuals for a little while, just to make sure that when I get them, they will actually be for the 2001 2500HD. I'm a little worried if I order them now I'll get books for the 2000 2500 instead.

    I am going to install an oil accumulator/pre-luber, and it needs to be wired into the ignition. Of course without the manuals this task becomes more difficult than it needs to be.

    Thanks.
  • mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    With an 8600lb GVWR it is a 3/4 ton truck marketed as a 1/2 ton truck because the Crew Cab weighs so much it pulls down the load capacity.

    See the GMC Version at:

    http://pickuptruck.com/html/news/2001_GMC_Crew_Cab.html

    Mike L
  • erikheikererikheiker Member Posts: 230
    Thanks to all who have answered previous questions. I find this forum to be especially helpful. But now I have two more questions. Last night the streets were water on ice so I had an excellent opportunity to test the ABS. I locked up the brakes (or tried to) and kept the pedal depressed until I came to a complete stop. After the ABS disengaged, the brake pedal sank down about two to three inches, but the brakes did keep the wheels locked. I've had other ABS vehicles before and my experience is that once the brake pedal feedback stops, the pedal doesn't sink down. Once I released the brake pedal everything went back to normal. I repeated the process several more times and the same thing always happened. I realize lots of people don't know how to correctly use ABS, but I do, so that is not an issue. Second question...several times now I've had "Service 4WD" display on the message center for just a fraction of a second. Once several weeks ago and twice today. I would expect a longer display than that...more like about 15 seconds like other messages. Right now I keep the 4WD system in the AutoTrac mode. The truck only has about 1750 miles on it. Anyone else ever have this happen?
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