GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions

1…1819212324…30

Comments

  • baredoggbaredogg Member Posts: 32
    builders foam will hold moisture ie. condisation and will cause rust thru a better choice would be a flexable sealer (non alkaline) to somewhat attach and isolate the panels there should be a factory applied heat reactive sealer there now but it could be a missed robot path aplication. Hope this helps
  • mekchalngdmekchalngd Member Posts: 3
    Have you checked the U-Joints? Apparently what you are experiencing may be caused by slack in the U-Joints, and the vibration gets worse while under a load. The factory installed joints are sealed and cannot be lubricated, the aftermarket ones can. Replacing these may rectify the problem for you.
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    Good point about the moisture.
    Thanks
    - Tim
  • treybonetreybone Member Posts: 1
    I have somewhat of the same problem. My fuel guage is all over the place reguarless of the amount of fuel i have. when i fill up it is ok till it gets low in fuel and then it is anyones guess on how much is left. It will go to full which i know it is not back down to 1/4 the to a half?? Any suggestions?
  • wolfdogwolfdog Member Posts: 1
    i am also having this problem and was wondering if you had any hits?
  • clawclaw Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 1998 GMC 2500 3/4 T Serria.73,000miles.
    It hasnt been maintained too well, but over all a good buy and pretty good shape.
    I had to replace the water pump, tires, brakes.
    What is driving me crazy is the popping in the front end as I turn.
    Nothing on inspection showed wear and needing to be replaced. A front end man told me there was aa recall on this front end. he claims that the way the dealer fixed the popping was by placing a certian kind of grease in the joints.
    I cant believe this, but it does not pop as bad after you grease the front end. After one week of driving the popping returns gradually and prossiveily louder......Comments welcome.
  • damurphdamurph Member Posts: 10
    I have a 92 GMC Sierra 1500. I had a problem with idle cycling between stalling and surging right before my fuel pump went out. After replacing the fuel pump I could start the truck, it would idle a little rough, then surge and die. I found the more severe problem to be a vacuum leak.

    I hope these potential problems point you in the right direction.
  • tconovertconover Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Jimmy makes to same noise. At around 45-50mph it sounds as if a fan is turning off and on. I've had this problem for awhile now and it is getting worse. It now makes the noise almost all of the time. Anyone find anything out about this?
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    How are the upper ball joints? If you end up changing them - get the TRW's.
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    I got a new radio from a friend who didn't want it. We both have '04 2500HD pickups.
    I originally had just a radio, and I stuck his old one w/CD player in my dash and it's locked.
    Apparently the RDS radios aren't as easy to reset.
    These aren't the BOSE units - just the GM's.
    Any one have a clue if I can reset this or should I buck up and take it to a dealer?
    Thanks - Tim
  • jstrongjstrong Member Posts: 2
    wolfdog,

    I had one hit indicating that it could be the fuel pump going out...I had the gas tank off a year ago to replace the brake line and had to take the pump off because I broke the ground lead and had to drill through the plastic electrical housing to resolder the lead...coincidence? I did replace the gas filter and that did not solve my problem. I haven't replaced the fuel pump as of yet...

    Now, I have taken a second look at the EGR valve. I took it off and cleaned it and tried to make sure that it was closing at idle. I didn't see any problem with it and stuck it back on. However, recently I disconnected the vacuum line, stuck a golf tee in the vacuum line and have been running it around and have noticed that my surging has cleared and the truck is running well. At highway speeds, after warmup, the Check Engine light comes on as expected, but the truck runs fine.

    My assumption at this point is that the EGR valve is spring loaded and lost enough of its closing strength that the small vacuum present at idle is enough to keep the valve open and cause the stumble I am seeing at low throttle. At least I hope it is because I'm going to replace it shortly...

    Another thing that has come to mind is that possibly there is too much vacuum at idle, indicating a malfunction of the EGR valve vacuum solenoid...It's probably the EGR valve because it takes alot of abuse in the form of heat and it is the original. Unfortunately, I don't have a vacuum gauge to give a definitive analysis.

    Good luck...
  • dhealey05dhealey05 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1998 gmc sierra extended cab 2wheel drive. Which has developed a vibration that no one can pin point. It seems to be comming from down in the under carriage or drve train not sure.. All u-joints and carrier bearing and tires have been checked. ??
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    I have a 98 tahoe and ours was doing that too. I did replace the rear u joint and it seems better. I bought one with a low profile grease fitting on the end of one of the cups. It's easier to lube than the other kind.
    If that aint it, I've always been suspicious of that EVO switch for the steering. They go bad very frequently on these trucks and when they do, they sometimes make it do some really weird stuff. Mostly the steering is affected, but I just don't trust it - wish they never put it on the vehicle.
    - Tim
  • gmcproblemsgmcproblems Member Posts: 1
    1. I was wondering if anyone has heard a gurgling sound/ rattle coming from the dash area(passenger side more). It only occurs when truck is under load in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear, you don't hear it in overdrive. When the truck is cold and the engine temp hasn't heated up the noise is not heard either..
    2. Anybody have problems with the digital odometer reading going off. If you bang the console sometimes it will come back on.
  • falcatrazfalcatraz Member Posts: 3
    Did this fix your problem? Mine only worked on high for a little while, then quit working all together.
  • jimmy05jimmy05 Member Posts: 3
    I have the same truck and the same whining noise & same whistling sound, I don't know what is the source, it doesn't bother me yet.
  • jimmy05jimmy05 Member Posts: 3
    xyz
  • dano7dano7 Member Posts: 1
    Drive train needs to be straightened. Same prob with my 97 Suburban. Dano7
  • nomar26nomar26 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GMC 1500 EXt CAB 5.3L 4X4 Z71. I recently went to start my truck and nothing electrical was working. I tried getting it jumped but nothing worked not even interior lights. I brought to dealership for service and they said it was just battery. They explained that once the battery got below 9 volts the computer shut down everything. It seems to be working but I was wondering if anyone else has had this happened to them.
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    similar thing happened to me a few times. Mine was the side terminal connection. sometimes they get corroded inside where you can't see and one day you get in the truck and it's dead - like you said.
    -Tim
  • mekchalngdmekchalngd Member Posts: 3
    We'll try this.

    Thanks, Dano!
  • tengatenga Member Posts: 20
    My 02 GMC started to make a noise on left side of the steering wheel, in the dash.
    It started as a noise (sounds like "aa"sound. It's a short noise. Well, I took the truck into the dealer, who ordered the part. Here's the bad part, the truck has one month over the the 3 year/ 30,000 miles (but only 24,500 miles). The dealer rep. said, they would install it free of charge, but I would have to foot the $350.00, for the replacement part. I grumbled a little, and the said, "OK".
    Well, now the replacement part is starting to make that intermitted "aa" sound again. What's is really funny, is that I just got the Survey Letter about the speedometer noise fix, done last week or so.
    There is a bulletin out, from GM to the Dealers, on this very subject.
    Has anyone on this forum, know anything about it. Tenga Tom
  • snowbunnywabitsnowbunnywabit Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have the same problem with my 2004 GMC 1500 4x4, I have taken it in a number of times and they rebuilt the tranny the first time and it continues to make the noise, they tell me there is nothing wrong with it. I was just wondering if you could let me know what responses you have gotten or if you found out what is actually causing the problem, thanks Jennifer. snowbunnywabit@aol.com
  • msw8754msw8754 Member Posts: 1
    this site explains some clunking noises.

    http://www.startribune.com/viewers/story.php?template=print_a&story=3856014

    my 2000 gmc sierra would make a thunk/clunk when starting up from a stop. i put in a new "nickel plated" slip yoke ($139.00 wholesale) with recommended grease ($33.00) and the problem has been sovled for 2 years now. a buddy and i did the install so total cost was under $175.00. i bet the dealership would charge at least $600 for parts and labor.
  • 90gmc4x490gmc4x4 Member Posts: 1
    Could any one tell me where i can find the sensor that makes the light on the 4x4 lever light up when it goes into 4 wheel drive :D
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    If worse comes to worse then I'd try a junkyard. I think it's just a switch that screws into the x-fer case isn't it?
    I'd be suprised a dealer doesn't carry this part.
    Happy hunting. - Tim
  • 97trk97trk Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton z71 pickup with a poor brake pedal feel.
    When coming to a stop the pedal feels soft and travels half way down to the floor.
    I have replaced master cylinders, flushed brake fluid and bled system, performed abs function tests,front brake pads and new rear brake shoes are 3/4 remaining.
    when I adjusted rear shoes up to a slight drag the pedal feels pretty good but that last for about 1 week and then the pedal feels spongy again. I was told to try a bigger rear wheel cylinder to make the rear brakes work better. But it has a large dia. wheel cylinder already 1 3/16.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks
  • rchelifreakrchelifreak Member Posts: 1
    A bunch of our 2005 3500s are having problems. They are equipped with front and back fuel tanks. The problem. The guage reads empty. The guys fill up the rear tank and then the front and it is already full. Is the transfer pump not working? Computer? Any ideas?
  • mscrobolamscrobola Member Posts: 1
    i have a 01 sierra 1500 with 79,000 miles last week i had the brakes replaced: front and rear rotors and rear calipers a day later i started getting a clicking in the right rear i pulled the tires off and found that if i grabbed the studs on the right side i could move them in and out almost an inch now i dont know much about trucks but i brought it back to the mechanic who now says the rear bearings are bad so i had them replaced i picked it up today and i am still getting the clicking noise and the lugs still move considerably any suggestions would be appreciated
  • bdc2020bdc2020 Member Posts: 58
    I have a 2001 Sierra 1500 Z71.

    Brough it in for service for the rear clunking noise AND for squeaking rear suspension. Dealer said TSB for both (replacing the drive yoke with a nickle plated drive yoke for the clunk, and replacing all the leaf springs for the rear suspension squeaking).

    Dealer also said BOTH items will be fixed under warranty! I was shocked. My truck is 3 yrs and 11 months old, and at 35,700 miles (just under the 36k). I thought it was 3yrs/36,000 warranty - whichever comes first, meaning I am past 3 years. I was so certain they missed the time thing I even called back and they said yeah it's still under warranty.

    I haven't picked it back up yet, but am nervous, until it's in my hands without a bill.

    I don't want to ask too many questions in case they missed it (as this is an expensive repair in labor i'm sure) - but am I wrong in thinking it's only 3 years?
  • rwallacerwallace Member Posts: 1
    try cleaning the trottle body. A known porblem for GMC is carbon buidup behind the throttle plate.
    I did mine , i belive it was causing carbon buildup on the pistons due to poor combustion . The carbon on the pistons caused pre ignition .
    I used throttle body cleaning spray and a rag . I also needed to rest my computer after this becaue the sensors took a good shot of the cleaner as well.

    This cured my growling noise.
  • chy46chy46 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 gmc that has a ABS light thats come on . Are the sensers sealed and built into the wheel bearing hub or can they be cleaned . This is a 4X4 . Any help would be GREAT !! Don't know much about these systems . ( 95 gmc ext. cab 1 ton )
  • chy46chy46 Member Posts: 2
    Can you repack the sealed bearings threw the abs wheel sensers ? 95 gmc 4x4 1 ton
  • straightace1straightace1 Member Posts: 1
    has anyone had this problem when after turning the wheel when it starts to straighten out you can feel and faintly hear the steering wheel click.I had this problem back in 02' and the dealer replaced the senser pin. this is the second time now that this has happend i was wondering if this was a common issue and what happens if i do not replace it or is their a recall ?
  • rsihc467rsihc467 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1999 gmc sierra and it's making some weird like clanking noises but i cant tell where exactly its coming from. it only makes the noise when going slower then 20. Also on occasion when i put it in drive and accelerate it has absolutely no get up and go,i put it to the floor and it only got up to 1500rpm. ANOTHER thing is when it's in 4 wheel drive and i turn, the front tires like try to stop moving and they skid, what could all this be???
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    The front tires will behave like that when locked in on dry road. 4 wheel shouldn't be engaged on dry pavement.
    No trouble codes are comming up ?( check engine light lit)
    Does it seem to run hot? Possible catalytic converter partially plugged. Can you rev. it up past 1500 while in park or nuetral?
    I don't know what to think about the noise, -maybe because it's in 4 - wheel and it's getting beat up because of it.
  • wesausmanwesausman Member Posts: 2
  • wesausmanwesausman Member Posts: 2
    i had the truck put on a computer at a parts store it came back with a miss fire code so i narrowed it down to 2 cylinders by unplugging coil wires 1 at a time while running so then i changed coils from one of the cylinders that seemed to be firing ok and still just had the problem on the same 2 cylinders but i am getting fire to the plugs then i pulled fuel injectors and tested them they are working fine plenty of fuel getting into the cylinders just won't fire on those to not sure if it's in the computer maybe telling those 2 cylinders to fire at the wrong time or what also exhaust has a strong gas smell and had to start after it warms up then sets for about 20 min any help would be appreciated
  • rsihc467rsihc467 Member Posts: 3
    well first of all i didnt have it on dry pavement when the front tires were draging. no trouble codes have come up or anything. it only has the power loss every once in awhile it's really odd. Today i was driving it and it lost power again and i started to pump the accelerator and out of no where the power came back. it's hard to explain it on this deal.
  • 97trk97trk Member Posts: 3
    this could be a evo sensor problem, see your dealer for repair.
  • rsihc467rsihc467 Member Posts: 3
    alright thanks i'll do that asap
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    I'd change the fuel filter if you don't think it's been changed in a while.
    That front end sure sounds like the differential is somehow engaged or partially engaged. I guess you could yank that fron tdrive shaft off to try and rule it out, or try to get someone to watch the front shaft to see if it rotates while the truck is in motion first. Then again - it might not spin at a low speed while your trying to watch it on the driveway but just at a little higher speed. - something to try. - good luck .
    - Tim
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    Wow! Is it a limited slip?
    - Tim
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    The service mgrs. all read this column - and your busted!
    just kidding. - How'd it turn out?
    - Tim
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    You know what? I just read your original msg. about the front wheels dragging. I think its normal for them to do that a little unless you're on a real slippery surface. Mine will do that especially if the wheels are turned sharp - even on gravel or grass.
    Is this something it just started doing that it hasn't done before? That doen't explain the noise 'though unless the cv's or the ball joints are well worn.
    Tough one. - wish you luck. - Tim
  • weelsweels Member Posts: 33
    You've just described my 98 tahoe exactly! I've done everything you have and mine acts exactly the same. We did lose brakes once altogether - with no loss of fluid. I put a new master on it after that but it still doesn't feel right. If you get it figured out I'd sure like to know too. Good luck!
    - Tim
  • pdanapdana Member Posts: 19
    I have a 1998 GMC Sierra with 4.3 v6 and 5spd trans. I had the clutch and slave cylinder replaced about a year ago and now I'm starting to notice that whenever I have the truck in gear w/ the clutch depressed, such as when I'm slowing down and have down shifted, any kind of bumps in the road cause a clacking noise that seems to be coming from right underneath the gear shift or inside the transmission. I can also feel a strange vibration in the gear shift when this happens. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • biffripjockbiffripjock Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem

    all it was is the power sterring pump needed topping up. apperantly runs as a booster. top up the fluid

    B
  • canamguycanamguy Member Posts: 5
    I have a 1992 had the same problem and it is the EGR to a degree. What is happening is your eprom is signalling the vacuum to open and close the EGR at the wrong times and when it does this it cause the surging and stalling effect. Since emmission control here in northern NY is lax. rather than screw with the electronics. I simply unhooked the EGR. (plugged the hose) so the EGR stays shut. Your mpg will be a little lower dropped me from 17mpg to 15.5/16mpg. and occassionally the check engine light comes on. So unless NY state becomes stricter on emmissions, my truck will be running without the EGR hooked up. Runs like a Top, just uses a little more gas.
  • canamguycanamguy Member Posts: 5
    Over the past 6 months I've had a small starting issue with my 1992 Sierra ext cab 4x4. At first it was believed that it was a blown module on the HEI distributor. No biggy, $36 part, 15 minutes to change it. 2 weeks later.. No start again.. Figured.. ok.. must have gotten a defective module, was a 1 warranty part so took it back, replaced it and put the new one in and trucked ran fine.. roughly 2 weeks later.. same problem. At that point I decided to go with a higher end Module - different brand. warranty covered the blown module, payed the different.. $10.00 extra. Put in the better module.. went a good month then same problem. So.. getting frustrated I torn out the module to take it back.. then for s&g's I cleaned the dielectric grease off put fresh stuff on and stuck then module back on. Truck fired right up.. ran great for 2 - 3 weeks. then woulsdn't start. So I pulled the dist. cap off, lossened the screws on the module ( didn't take it off the dist though) tighened the screws back up. put the cap back on.. fired right up. It went a month, then we got some 90+ weather with nasty humidity and for 4 days straight every morning I had to pop the dist cap off, put it back together and it would start. As long as the truck didn't sit parked (not running) for more than 4-5 hours it would start just fine. But if it sat overnight, or while I was at work. I had to get out and tinker with it. The only conclussion we have come up with was a ground issue of some kind. So to test the theory I attached a ground wire from the underside if the dist ( attached the wire to the screw that mounts the module) to the firewall.. So far it's started without any problems. But I have a feeling that that ground wire isn't the solution and that it's something else causing it. But if it keeps starting with that extra ground wire..I'm good to go. Any Ideas anyone?
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.