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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    HID bulbs? Do they actually make such a thing or is it a marketing ploy. I thought HID had to be bought as a complete system often costing close to $1000 +

    Yeah and watch the brightness cause I had a light melt down the fog light housing on my Silverado. Course on the Denali, the fogs are made of glass and not plastic therefore are able to handle the hotter bulbs.
  • firefly5firefly5 Posts: 9
    I own a 2004 gmc sierra 2500HD duramax diesel with the allison trans.I have had the same intermitted problem for a year. The truck started with a hesitation problem .I took it into the dealership at which time the dealership recalibrated my computer. Ever since then the engine started stumbling. when this happens it won't go over 25 mph.If the excellorator is fully depressed the engine feels like it's going to die off.Anyone experience this problem or know the fix would appreciate the help.
  • firefly5firefly5 Posts: 9
    I bought a 2004 gmc sierraHD duramax diesel my center caps come loose and fell off after the first month of ownership, Since then I've lost two sets.GMC wants to glue them back on. I say no way fix it right,I have the chrome on steel , HELP!!!!!
  • firefly5firefly5 Posts: 9
    My 2004 gmc 2500HD 6.6 liter diesel allison trans has interrior rattels at the dash and between the doors or armrest area. The dealership says they don,t hear anything.I think they should turn off the radio and A/C then they might hear it. The truck has a little over 11,000 miles.It,s driving me crazy? anybody got the same problems?(answers & sollutions)
  • firefly5firefly5 Posts: 9
    My 2004 gmc sierra 2500HD 6.6 liter duramax diesel ext. cab has wind noises between the double doors and weather stripping. GMC says I,m the only one experiencing this problem. All you ext. cab GMC owners now is your time to be heard.( please respond )
  • firefly5firefly5 Posts: 9
    I have had problems with the steering on my truck from the 2nd. month of ownership, I was told I needed to brake in the truck.The problem persisted and got worse, I could feel it on my steering wheel.Finally a friend of mine who owns the same truck advised me there was a bulletin out on the intermediate shaft.The truck in question is the 2004 GMC Sierra 2500HD 6.6 liter duramax diesel ext. cab.The shaft was replaced which caused another problem, a groaning noise in the steering when making left turns. I was told that the coil spring in back of the air bag on my steering had to be replaced. It was replaced but the problem wasn't solved. They then replaced the steering gearbox which caused another problem, This problem still persists today. What certain dealerships are doing is they have devised an adapter which is attached to a grease gun which is then pumped into the intermediate shaft. This has proved to be a temporary fix as the grease comes out and dries up. let me know if this has happened to you?
  • shiftlessshiftless Posts: 40
    This won't solve all the problems you have with the truck but if you have a grease fitting on the intermediate steering shaft spline this would be an easy fix. Use a heavier grease typically used for wheel bearings. I used this method several years ago and the system is still working as it should.
  • mailman2mailman2 Posts: 15
    2001 Z-71 shortbed How hard to replace all the rotors and pads? Any special tools? Dealer wanted a $1,000 to do it. Another place wanted $700 and would stand behind their work.
  • firefly5firefly5 Posts: 9
    Thanks shiftless, I did Explain to the area Rep that if a grease nipple was installed to the intermediate shaft it would help solve this problem.Trust me they don't want to address this problem as it's been going on for years. Makes you wander whats going on with General Motors could this be why their profits are down. Good point that heavier grease does make a lot of sense.( thanks)
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    MAIL........Those prices are about "right" for a stealer
    brake job.................
    Of course they are gonna want to replace the pads, rotors,
    calipers and poss. the brake hose(s) and just about
    anything else that MAY be "marginal" !!!!!!!!!!!!

    Remember that word LIABILITY ? It rears its UGLY head
    where safety items are required.............

    While any brake job is NOT for the inexperienced. It is
    easily done in a short time by a experienced "shadetree"
    A set of good pads are under $30. A rotor "cut" is $10
    bucks each, a replacement rotor on a 4x4 is anywhere from $50 to $150 each and a set of rebuilt calipers is under $50!.............

    Where are you getting these prices and what is included ?????????
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    GUYS.....take a peek over at ridglineownersclub or
    GM is NOT the only automaker with steering shaft
    or cold start knock problems.............

    But to be FAIR......."THOSE" vehicles NEVER have problems!
    Just ask any of their owners here in "fantasyland"!!!!!

    Did I mention the titan? Thats another "perfect one" too!

    ..........LOL !!!!!!!!! :P
  • mailman2mailman2 Posts: 15
    The dealer did an inspection and I did see the pads and rotors are gone. They had turned them about a year ago for rust. The $1,000 was from the dealer for 4 rotors and pads all around. A local brake place said they could do the same for $700 with a lifetime warranty.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    There are rotors and then there are rotors. There are also rotors that warp. There are ceramic pads and there are metallic pads which will make your rims look like a BMW's. I'd ask what kind of rotor and pads that both will be using cause it will make a difference in the price. Geo9 said $50 to $150 on the rotors. If garage B was using $150 rotors X4 and a quality ceramic pad...well then he'd be charging for parts with free installation.

    Personally, if you could just call around and ask how much they would charge to install pads and rotors with you providing the parts to get a better idea on their labor charge. And if opting for that route, I'd definitely would pick up my own parts and watch them install it.

    One last thing...try to stay away from
  • I agree with you I have a 2000 GMC Sierra the transfer case just emptied out. Not sure what the issue is. If it's cracked I'm gonna be bull----. If it's the seals I can deal with it. I had no warning at all the fluid just dumped out of the tranfer case when I parked it. I had it put up on the wrecker with the rear facing the pavement and it completly dumped out....
  • I had slight vibration on the highway pulled into work. Put it in park and all the Transfer case fluid dumped out of the truck. The truck has 83K on it. Is this happening often with these truck. I hope I don't have a cracked transfer case if it is I'm gonna be heated. I've never towed or plowed with this truck ugggggg!!!
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    BLK............ I know EXACTLY what you are gonna find !
    A wear thru hole in the case itself. It wears from the
    inside OUT !!!!!!! This is a known NPG tran. case prob. and is well noted on a few GM truck sites along with
    pics and cures...............

    Some guys use JB Weld, another guy used a pan screw along
    with a washer and sealer. Will dig up link for ya !
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Heres a link to pics of the GM trans. case link.
    Is yours there? There are others posted elsewhere
    with fixes but this is the most common area for the
    wear thru leak.........
  • firefly5firefly5 Posts: 9
    Hey keefe1, each time they cut your rotors and drums it lessens the life of it. Also too much cutting of the front rotors will cause them to heat up and warp a lot faster. I'd contact the GMC Consumer Relations Manager at 1-800-426-8782.If this doesn't help contact the Better Business Bureau. Just stick to it and be persistant.(Good Luck).
  • mailman2mailman2 Posts: 15
    Had rotors and pads all around. Cost $700. I was there when they took everything off. Could not believe that GM would allow such crap to be installed on their trucks. The rotors were pitted and rusted and the pads were chewed up. I am light on the pedal so it's not abuse. Only 40,000 miles 2001 Z-71. The pads are lifetime and rotors are 1 year but if they rust up, he'll replace them free. GM's rotors rust up in the lot. Looked at a new truck and the rotors are rusted. Salesman said the rust will come off when you start to drive it. YEAH RIGHT
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Mail.....ALL rotors on a lightly driven vehicle will
    show some sort of "rust" on the wear face. Water or
    moisture will show "rust" on ANY untreated iron or steel
    surface. A bit of driving will wear the "rust" off.

    Here in snow and salt land severe rust will form between
    the front and back wear surfaces in the heat "slots".

    Are your brakes pulsing or giving you any other problems?

    Rotors????...yea the price varies greatly. Just put a
    set on my girls s-blazer.........$39 bucks each.
    Made in china of course................ :P
    Full sizer 6 or 8 bolt rotors get $pendy quick !!!!!!!
  • mailman2mailman2 Posts: 15
    Brakes did not feel different. Had the abs sensors replaced under recall. Had them turned a couple years back because of rust. Ever since then, pad wear was going faster than usual. It is better not to have GM's rotors as The same problem would occur
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    2000.....take a trip over to the
    A big thread and pics over there about the trans.
    case leak/wear-thru issues..............
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    You're right to point that out about HID. I think George and I are confusing HID with Halogen. A quick look at the McMaster-Carr catalogue shows there are four types of HID (High Intensity Discharge); Mercury Vapor, Low-pressure Sodium, High-pressure Sodium, and Metal Halide. They all have a long restart and warm-up period so, if they're actually used in automotive applications someone here may be able to inform. Their use is mainly for area lighting, and yes, they are pricey; You can easily pay $100 for one bulb. And as far as the 'no touchy rule' for Halogen, I've seen it on 120V applications, but I'm not sure if it applies to low voltage applications. There's no warning on the Silvania packaging.

    I'm intrigued about your comment on the Denali fogs. Not being familiar with there look, do you know if the 2002's are interchangeable with the same year Silverado?

  • akenatenakenaten Posts: 122
    My owners manual says to change the engine oil when the DIC tells me to. It also says I should change the oil at least once a year. Is that really enough? On my other vehicles I change oil and filter every 5000 miles. Since this is my first diesel(2006 Sierra 2500HD)how often should I change it and why would a diesel need it less often than a gas engine? :confuse:
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Took me awhile to check if they could be swapped. It appears not as the Sierra/Yukon has round fogs as compared to the elongated ones on the Silverado.

    Now if you were to do a conversion on the front end with an Escalade kit perhaps..........
  • Are there any other option as to replacing the windows on my 2000 GMC extended cab to get rid of the wind noise? I am actually considering gluing them shut with silicon. Any other ideas out there?

    I wished the had made the back quarter windows that roll down. Anyone ever see a truck converted that way?
  • wiljmanwiljman Posts: 1
    all fuses are good, fan work when wired directly to the battery, fan doesnt work on any speed. the only thing i can think of is the relay switch. is there a reset to activate relay???
  • gmctruckgmctruck Posts: 186
    GM was replacing them under warranty years ago with a redesigned window that supposedly fixed the wind noise problem. There was also a window latch modification that would pull the window in tighter, but I don't remember the exact details since it's been so long ago. A web search might help you find more information on that. The windows can be replaced, but I'm not sure what the cost would be since it's out of warranty.

    You would not be able to convert them to roll down windows without major modifications which wouldn't be worth the trouble. Keeping the windows shut all the time seems to help so I don't ever open them on my '99 Sierra.
  • akenatenakenaten Posts: 122
    I think you should convert them to roll down widows. I'm sure an obviously savvy guy like yourself could make it work! :)
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    WIL........Check the 'rado/sierra thread here.
    Another poster (dagord) had the same problem.
    He replaced a simple relay in the heater
    control/switch assembly for only a few bucks vs.
    a whole new unit.........
This discussion has been closed.