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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Ed
Thanks for the help anyhow, definetly a learning experience!
Funny thing is nowadays the dealer just replaces the
entire pump assembly as a unit for $800 or so.
(It cost me $900 at my local Cadillac dealer a few
years back!)
You used to be able to replace just the pump assembly
for less than $100...............
Ed
Took front and bottom part of the dash apart and I still am unable to fix this....any ideas?
I am having an intermitent problem with the speedometer. It will often display much higher than actual speed. When stopped the gauge will read 20 or 30 mph. It comes and goes. I've been told that everything is electronic now. It sounds like it must be the gauge. Any thoughts? Do you have to replace just the speedometer or the whole gauge cluster?
I have a 1998 Sierra 3500 Dually 4wd. Last time I changed the distributor cap and rotor it was an 8 - 10 hour thing, because the cap is under the intake manifold so it is very difficult to tighten one of the cap's screws.
I finally found something to post on here. The "piston slap" issue is really a load of crap. Dealers say it does it on start up and goes away, but I have noticed while driving the valves rattle like you have bad gas.
The knocking you hear is more than likely the roller lifters with no oil at start up. The excuse piston slap is used is how the design of the engine and where the lifters are placed in the engine. They are held in place with in a grouping of 4 in a container that is bolted to the block. Due to the design the opening is large enough to amplify any engine noise near the pistons and the heads are bolted directly on top of the lifter gallies making it difficult to make this repair.
I pulled the valve cover and ran the motor with little or no oil coming thru the pushrods on the lifters. I also have found out that the oil pumps can fail with no warning and have ran as low as 6psi at idle which the dealer says is normal.
I am in the process of replacing the oil pump and lifters and hopefully will remedy my situation. It has not burned oil, like I have read on sites where 2-4 quarts of oil between oil changes is normal by dealer or GM customer service standards but it is not normal, I have had several GM's in the past and 1 quart or less in 3-5k was normal.
I really love my truck and yes GM has got problems but they better get their stuff together and take care of the customer instead of being in denial or they will not have customers.
and your truck is a 02 I am betting on a loose heat
sheild on your cat(s).
Those cheap spot welds just break/rust off thus causing
the vibration(s). Try driving a few wood wedges between
the cat and muffler and see if it cures your problem.
Thanks guys,
kimble989
Thanks,
-Rich
Thanks to all in advance.
J
Anyone else have this problem? What was the fix?
Anyone tried to buy a PS hose for this vehicle? This aftermarket part does not exist up here in Canada...and GM wnats in the $300 range. (I have a very very small weep in the hose and that is the next repair that is planned)
Again any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Anyone have a solution for this?
raiderken
In an effort to make things a bit easier to research, we're adding more focused discussions for the Silverado/Sierra so that they don't get lost in one general discussion.
If you click on the main Silverado & Sierra Group, you will see a bunch of new discussions broken down by specific sections of the truck. We'd like you to start posting your problems under those new discussions, and hopefully you can get faster respoinses by those who may be more knowledgeable about those specific areas.
Thanks!
kcram - Pickups Host
The main reason I wanted to post this is there are a couple of things that the dealer has told me i had to bring my truck in to have something done and blatently lied to me. 1st, i bought a remote for the truck and when i went to pick it up, they told me i had to take the truck around back so they could program the remote. i thought, COOL! til they told me it would cost $45.00 to do because they have this big machine and blah blah blah. i gave them a few choice words and walked out. went on ebay later that night looking at remotes and found a remote for another vehicle with a link to program remotes free. in about 45 seconds i had my remote programmed, without a machine.
and now this key tumbler deal. they told me they had a machine that would code my ignition key to the new ignition. $80.00 so, i politely looked up at the [non-permissible content removed] and asked him, why would i need a machine to do this? i have the 8 digit code and i have the old tumbler with ignition WITH the tumblers still in it. well the machine does all the work and your ignition won't work to your key. so, again with a few choice words, i walked out, went home and fixed it without a machine or more than two brain cells.
My 2001 GMC only knocks when it's operating at normal temperature, usually around the 50 - 60 Kilometers per hour mark, or when hauling something (like my 5th wheel). I don't think it's a piston slap issue, but am very worried about the noise. Any ideas what it could be?
I have a 1994 GMC pick up w/ a 350 rebuilt engine. Started making a fluttering noise under the driver's side. I think I have an exhaust leak at one of the gaskets. I have never replaced an exhaust gasket before. Can anyone offer advice or a good manaual or site with advice on how to repair. It doesent look extremely difficult. Would it be better for me to pay a profrssional exhaust guy to replace it. Any idea on cost? Thanks!
it would start and I would put it in drive, go two feet and
it would die. It would not crank again. I would hear a buzzing noise under the dash when I would turn the key to the start(not crank) position. Lights would flicker on the
dash, speedometer would go up to 30mph. Usually after 5 minutes of turning the ignition key, pushing in any wire connectors I could reach, pressing on brake pedal, shifting
gears, it will eventually start again. Sometimes it will
stall right back out again, other times I'm ready to go.
One weird thing that happened last time, I thought the radio
got fried. There was no lights on the radio after I turned
it on and no music. I did check the fuses, but that was ok.
The truck failed again today, after I got it running, not sure what I did, but now the radio works fine.
Any help would be great. This weekend i'm going to try to
inspect all electrical connections. I already checked all
fuses inside the truck and under the hood.
Once in a while(about every 2 weeks) I have the following starting issue.
It starts fine, but once I go about 2 feet it dies.
I try to start it again, but no juice. It seems like there is a short somewhere.
I can turn the key to the on(not crank) position and the
lights on the dash flicker, the speedometer goes up to 30mph and I hear
a buzzing noise under the dash that sounds like when you have your door
open(but it's not that buzz). If I try to crank, nothing. It doesn't even
turn over.
After playing with it for about 10 minutes it will start again. I will try
everything. Fiddling with the connectors, shifting gears, pushing break
pedal. I don't know what exactly I did, but eventually it works again.
Sometimes it stalls right back out after going two feet other times it's
fine. It happens intermittently, sometimes in the morning or after I've
been driving for a while and stop somewhere and turn the engine off. After I get past the first two feet, it will
not happen, this only happens in the first two feet.
Example: one time I pushed the brake pedal a few times an shifted the
gears then it worked.
Last time I tried everything but it seemed like nothing worked. So I
pushed the horn button to see if it would work and it did, then it
started fine.
One time after this the radio died.(turn it on, no lights, no stations, the
casette wouldn't even go in, just hear static if i turn the volume all the way up) I thought maybe it got shorted out.
I checked the fuses, all ok. Then recently I had the starting problem
again. When I finally got it started, the radio works fine.
The battery is newer, connections are good. Newer alternator(this happened
before the alternator was replaced too). All fuses seem to be good.
Any suggestions?