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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
-Eric
-Ken
I remember GM changing the powersteering unit to correct the pulling effect in some cases.
I'll ask about the power steering unit next time I take it in.
Thanks
-Ken
same problem. The rear frame is broken approx. 11"
forward of rear shackle. I towed a four place snowmobile trailor (5000lb) with class 3 hitch it actually bent the frame down at this same weak point. The other trucks were used on a farm over rough roads approx 60% of every day. One of them
broke completly through on one side. All owners should check their frames. Has anybody else already experienced this problem?
It could be about a $170 experiment if you want to try it. Also, I have Edelbrock IAS shocks, but I think they mostly improve handling/cornering, and don't improve the ride much. Others, like oby, report improved ride with the Edlebrocks. I think the Edelbrocks go for $225-$300, depending on where you buy them and the Edelbrock rebate.
I did a ride with the mechanic and it is his opinion that it is coming from the rear of the truck and that the noise is transferring through the frame to the front end. I thought it was in the front end also. But it banged only when the rear end hit the bump. Not the front. If he finds the problem, I'll do a post
He informed me that he has seen more than a few of these, but GM claims there is no widespread problem. The part is no longer available for repalcement (which is nearly impossible without bending the housing) and when it was available, it was $1600.00!!!!!!
Aftermarket prices are about $330.00 but are just as iffy from a quality standpoint.
If you need more info on this one...post and let me know.
Date: June, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Steering or Front End Road Induced Vibration
(Install and Reinforce Revised Steering and Suspension Components)
Models:
1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C1500 Pickup Trucks (Silverado and Sierra)
Built Prior to the VINs
Important: Canadian dealers require PRIOR District Service Manager approval to apply this bulletin.
Condition
Some customers may comment on a steering wheel or front end vibration.
Cause
Several components in the front end steering and suspension work in unison to isolate the driver from road irregularities and from road/tire induced vibration. If any of these components are not working effectively, it will affect the other components of the suspension and steering system. Tire and road vibrations may be transmitted to the passenger compartment and steering through the rack and pinion unit. Additionally, the mounting points of the steering rack on the front frame crossmember may be amplifying any road vibrations.
Correction
In order to dampen unwanted vibration from the steering wheel, the following revisions must be preformed:
^ The tires must be in accordance with Corporate Bulletin Number 99-03-09-002 published August, 1999.
^ The steering rack must be replaced with a revised rack.
^ The left front steering rack mounting point must be reinforced.
^ The lower control arms must be replaced with units incorporating a revised bushing.
^ The power steering (PS) pump metering valve must be replaced with a revised fitting.
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Parts Information
Use the following procedure to replace the required components. Use the part numbers listed:
Notice: All components listed above must be replaced in order to correct the customer concern. Incremental replacements will adversely affect the handling and ride qualities of the vehicle. All components of the repair must be in place before the vehicle is returned to the customer.
1. Raise the vehicle. Refer to the General Information subsection of the Service Manual for information on lifting and jacking the vehicle.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies.
3. Remove the front skid plate.
4. Remove the rear skid plate.
5. Remove the high and low pressure power steering lines from the rack and pinion unit.
6. Remove the steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt.
7. Remove the right and left outer tie rod end nuts.
8. Remove the tie rod ends nuts from the steering knuckles.
9. Remove the two nuts retaining the rack and pinion unit. Remove rack and pinion unit from the vehicle.
10. Remove and transfer the outer tie rod ends to the revised steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the tie rod end jam nuts to 68 Nm (50 lb ft).
11. Remove the two long bolts that retain the rack using a pry bar to slightly move the position of the anti-sway bar. This will allow removal of the steering rack retaining bolts through the crossmember.
12. Remove the undercoating from around the left side rack and pinion mount with solvent.
13. Lightly grind the area around the left mount.
^ Extend the grinding area to at least a 101 mm (4 in) area around the left side rack mounting point.
^ Remove all underbody coating around the reinforcement plate in order to obtain the strongest weld possible. In addition, some area around the reinforcement must be cleared of undercoating in order to prevent the possibility of the coating "flashing".
Caution: The underbody coating on the frame will burn if exposed to the extreme heat of welding. The coating may ignite and/or flash suddenly. Avoid direct contact of the welding torch to the underbody coating. Always remove the coating so that sufficient area is free of coating for the welding operation to be preformed without risk of igniting the coating. Avoid inhalation of fumes from any over-heated or burning underbody coating
14. In order to obtain an effective weld for this repair, you must follow the welding pattern diagram. The most effective way of welding this reinforcement is to quickly tack the three sides of the reinforcement first. This method will keep all sides of the reinforcement in contact with the frame crossmember throughout the welding operation. If one whole side of the reinforcement is welded without first tacking the edges, the patch may warp. If the reinforcement plate warps, it will be difficult to obtain as accurate a weld. A warned reinforcement plate will also increase the size of the gap that must be sealed later in this procedure.
15. The finished weld must consist of four welded beads. Two beads along the side of the reinforcement (1) must be 80 mm (3.20 in). The bead along the lower edge (3) must be at least 90 mm (3.60 in). The final weld (2) should be a continuous bead around the center of the reinforcement to the mounting post on the crossmember. A correct weld bead should measure 120 mm (4.80 in) around the post. Let the weld area cool.
16. Coat the reinforcement plate and the bare portion of the frame crossmember with a self-etching primer. Allow the primer to flash off its solvent.
Important: It is essential that a primer coating and effective seal be created around the reinforcement. This creates a corrosion barrier for the mating surface of the plate and frame crossmember.
17. Apply a heavy-bodied seam sealer, such as 3M Ultrapro Autobody Sealant (P/N 08302) or equivalent, to all edges of the reinforcement. The P/N for the 3M Sealer is for a clear style. Any color is acceptable for this repair. Create a seal along the edges and around the center mount coming through the plate. A good seal will prevent moisture from accumulating between the frame crossmember and the back side of the welded reinforcement.
18. As soon as the sealer skins-over, you can apply an undercoating. Apply a spray-on black, rubberized undercoating to the reinforcement and the crossmember. Overlap the original coating in order to provide an effective corrosion protection.
19. Remove the high-pressure PS fluid line from the rear of the PS pump.
20. Remove the brass PS pump-metering valve.
21. Install the revised metering valve to the PS pump.
Tighten
Tighten the valve to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).
22. Install the PS fluid high-pressure line to the pump.
Tighten
Tighten the line fitting to 28 N.m (20 lb ft).
23. Remove the front upper shock mounts.
24. Remove the lower shock absorber nuts and bolts.
25. Remove the stabilizer link bolts.
26. Remove the right and left lower control arms.
27. Install the right and left revised lower control arms and nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 145 N.m (107 lb ft).
28. Install the long steering rack attachment bolts through the crossmember. Reposition the stabilizer bar in order to allow insertion of the bolts.
29. Install the right and left stabilizer links and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the stabilizer link nuts to 10 N.m (89 lb in).
30. Install the right and left lower shock absorber nuts and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 80 N.m (59 lb ft).
31. Install the right and left upper shock absorber nuts and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
32. Install the revised steering rack to the vehicle.
Tighten
Tighten the steering rack attachment bolts to 185 Nm (135 lb ft).
33. Install the tie rod ends to the steering knuckles.
Tighten
Tighten the tie rod end nuts to 50 N.m (37 lb ft).
34. Install the steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the pinch bolt to 47 N.m (35 lb ft).
35. Install the high and low pressure lines to the steering gear.
Tighten
Tighten the line fittings to 33 N.m (24 lb ft).
38. Install the tire and wheel assemblies to the vehicle.
37. Lower the vehicle.
38. Bleed the PS system. Refer to the Power Steering System subsection of the Service Manual for PS system bleeding procedures.
39. Align the front suspension. Refer to the Front Suspension subsection of the Service Manual for alignment specifications.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table
Thanks in advance...
http://www.oddball.co.jp/vin/vin.html
Options are detailed by RPO codes located in your glovebox and can be defined here:
http://www.geocities.com/crackeregg/CKtruck/1999/general/rpo1999ck.html
And if you look around on that site, you will also find TSB's for the truck.
The vehicle just turned over 1000 miles yesterday. Since soon after taking delivery of truck, I have noted an intermittent shudder at 1-2 shift, and a rarer "clunk" at 2-1 downshift. This got worse over last few days. I checked transmission fluid yesterday, and it was about 1/2 quart low. Topped it off, and it helped but the truck still doesn't shift as smoothly as my dad's 2000 Silverado. This morning I re-checked the ATF level and I noticed a distinct burnt smell. I didn't check the smell yesterday.
Additionally there have been a couple of minor electrical problems. Yesterday the clock advanced 5 hours by itself while parked. Last night the display on the rear view mirror alternated between normal and the "hieroglyphics" that you see when first turning on ignition.
The truck has been babied thus far. No towing, over-revving, etc.
I'm calling service dept. tomorrow. Any comments or suggestions appreciated.
Tom
A/C was on couple of days ago, heater was on this morning, after work turned on vents to cold
(not recirculating) and stink city. Not the same smell as shutting the truck off with the a/c on then starting it later. This smells like mold.
. . Air Conditioning Odor
.
Air Conditioning Odor
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-39-004
Date: February, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Air Conditioning Odor (Install Kit)
Models:
1993-99 Passenger Cars (Except Geo)
1993-99 Light Duty Models (Except Tracker)
This bulletin is being revised to update the model year, service procedure and parts information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 53-12-12A (Section 01 - HVAC)
Condition
Some customers may comment on odors emitted from the air conditioning system, primarily at start-up in hot humid climates.
Cause
This odor may be the result of microbial growth on the evaporator core. When the blower motor fan is turned on, the microbial growth may release an unpleasant, musty odor into the passenger compartment.
Correction
To remove odors of this type, it is necessary to eliminate the microbial growth and prevent its reoccurrence. To accomplish this, the following two steps must be completed:
1. Apply evaporator core Cooling Coil Coating
(Aerosol 6 oz.), P/N 12377951
(AC Delco 15 - 102)
2. Install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer,
P/N 12346377 (AC Delco 12346378).
The Electronic Evaporator Dryer will activate when the ambient temperature near the module is above 60°F when the vehicle is started up. Approximately 30 minutes after the vehicle has been turned off, the blower will activate for 10 seconds every 10 minutes for 2 hours unless the vehicle is restarted. If a restart occurs, the Electronic Evaporator Dryer module will reset automatically. This on/off blower activation will dry the evaporator core and case reducing the chance of reoccurring A/C odor. The Electronic Evaporator Dryer is self fused and has a battery rundown protection feature that inactivates the dryer if voltage drops below 12.5 volts.
Service Procedure
1. Visually inspect the air conditioning evaporator drain hose for obstructions and/or working condition.
2. The cooling coil coating fluid must be applied before the evaporator. Apply coil coating fluid as described in the instructions supplied with the kit. In some instances, the blower motor resistor can be removed for this spraying operation. If used, the opening can be taped over and the nozzle inserted through a hole in the tape. The kit instructions identify a drilling procedure to apply the coating fluid. When using this type of procedure, care must be taken to avoid evaporator damage and any holes must be properly sealed. Some coating fluid may overflow from the drain hose.
3. Complete detailed installation instructions and wire connectors are supplied with the Electronic Evaporator Dryer. The ground wire should be attached to a body ground source. If any other wire splicing procedures are needed, follow the wire repair procedures in the applicable sub-section, Section 8A or Wiring Systems, of the appropriate Service Manual. If required, the evaporator dryer can be installed underhood away from extreme heat conditions (i.e. exhaust manifolds) and/or water splash areas.
4. When the installation procedure is complete, test the system by inserting a pen/pencil or similar type tool into the test button next to the LED light on the side of the module. If the LED light illuminates, then the system was properly installed. Install the Electronic Evaporator Dryer label on the blower motor case in a visible area.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
12377951 Cooling Coil Coating
(AC Delco 15 - 102) (Aerosol 6 oz.)
12346377 Electronic Evaporator Dryer
(AC Delco 12346378) Module Kit
Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor
Operation Description Labor Time
Apply Cooling Coil
D3316 Coating/Install Electronic 0.8 hr
Evaporator Dryer
This slider is identical in style and tint but has a steel frame with rubber trim. I've only had this window 3 weeks but the dealer claimed it was the plastic frames that were at fault.
Model: ECT899B (Clear Glass)
Model: ECT899LT (Light Tint) (55) Also known as DY90095PK5 to local dealers
Model: ECT899S (Solar Tint) (28) Also known as DY90096YK5 to local dealers
I have had reassuring conversations with the Tech. people in California but quality cannot be seen over the telephone.
I have yet to see any of the models listed above!
Please let me know what model you have and any details about it.
Ed
Is this normal for a torsion bar front end or is it something to be concerned about?
Thanks for any info...
-You didn't rotate your tires, which the manual calls for. Therefore, the tires will be shot. What's also true is that all four would be shot at 30K.
-Rotate according to specs and take the credit for the unused portion of the warranty
-Replace the front two...so that for every two front changes, you replace the rears once.
-Goodyears, in my opinion, aren't that good a tire to begin with so 22k is ok without rotation and 30k is fine with. I never expect much from the stock tires on GM vehicles as they are price concious.
Btw, you failed to mention what brand of tires was on your '95
cowboyjohn
Valky
Ed
Here in Michigan only the side glass shouldn't be too dark.(actually not dark at all).
Think you could convince the dealer to get you one of those power sliders?
Good luck Ed
Scott