Just got off the phone with the dealer service manager making an appointment for my 4WD problem and mentioned the knocking problem. His response: "I certainly am familiar with it and the factory states this is normal". Same mentality as every other problem. Looks like I'll take your advice.
99 z/71 with the 5.3. I started to notice the knock at about 6000kms. Its most obvious at idle when the motor is hot. It now has 26000kms on it and its certainly not getting any better. Dealer has contacted zone rep. This motor has been babied and mobile 1 after the first oil change.
I know a GM tech who has put bearings in the 5.3 on several times. I told him I thought it was piston slap but he said no its bottom end.
Anyone get this one solved by dealer or GM yet !!
Ill keep ya posted. oh ya other problems to date: -trans sometimes starts out in 2nd gear(about 6 times since new) -vibration at 65 -pulsating brakes, rotors had to be turned at low kms -pop in steering wheel- shaft replacement -squeek at front cv boot/seal -leaf spring slap-noise over bumps
How about going to a different dealer? It truly sounds like a problem and not a characteristic of the truck, can or have you driven other similar trucks to see if they also have the problems? Sounds like a good time to call the customer service number and start a file, let them know what has happened, and you would like the problem resolved.As for the dealership that has worked on the truck, if it does any good or not, but speak to the service manager, or even the general manager and see if they are willing to get involved-you paid out good money for the truck, you deserve assistance!! My .02.
I have been reading all these posts for a couple of weeks now. I found out about the Edmunds site from a friend.
My 99 Sierra Ext Cab 4 wheel drive with the 5.3 and 33000 miles also has the piston slap at start up. I was probably one of those that did not notice it until I read these posts and actually listened for it. From what I have been told from the parts manager at a reputable dealer, it has to do with the tolerances of the piston. Do to this defect, carbon is building up in the cylinder walls. This is why decarbonizing the cylinders works for a little while. The carbon just comes back.
GM is coming out with a new piston probably by the end of the year. I, for one, am not going to let them tear my engine apart and put in new pistons. I already had over 20 problems with the truck and do have the 6yr/100,000 mi. warranty thanks to dealing with the BBB. I filed a claim on a Sunday and was contacted by a zone rep on Wednesday. She gave me the warranty over the phone. She did ask for the service records to verify my problems.
Three weeks later, I have the warranty card. I should have pushed for a buy back but I had 28000 mi on the truck before the first repair. I had some minor ones pop up that I thought I would wait on until some more showed up and do everything at once. Ohio Lemon Law says 1 year or 18000 mi. Next time I buy a vehicle, I will get things repaired ASAP in case I have to use the Lemon Law.
My problems:
Accelerator pedal sticking...replace throttle body Clunk in steering shaft...replace intermediate shaft Rattle in front A pillar...replace both moldings Clicking in steering wheel...replace SIR coil Rotors severely rusted...replace all 4 and pads A\C Compressor noise...replace compressor and evaporator Wind noise rear quarters...replace both quarter windows Third door hard closing...adjust latches Driveline clunk...greased on 2 different occasions Cruise inoperable...replace cable Driver door window inoperable...lubricate window seals Banging in left front...tighten hood hinge bolts Banging in rear...greased spring shackles Piston slap...normal Paint wearing off rim caps...replace all 4 Wind noise from windshield...reseal windshield Cruise again inoperable...replace connector Instrument panel rattle...fixed with 2 sided tape Lights dimming in cold weather...Could not duplicate Cupholder rattle...Could not duplicate ABS activating prematurely...Could not duplicate
About the clunking in the driveline. GM is telling me they are coming out with a new yoke that should correct the problem. They do not recommend greasing with the blue stuff or using the spring as some of you may have heard.
Problems as yet to be fixed:
Clunking in driveline Banging in rear end of truck (springs?) Transmission banging in second (this is more than the harsh 1-2 shifts. Dealer says normal...gear lash) Lights dimming in cold weather
But guess what? Neither of my driving lights in the front have burned out yet.
Thanks obyone, ricsch, ryanbab, gator36, modvptnl amd everyone else who I might have not named. Thanks to all of you, I have most things fixed and an extended warranty free of charge.
I'm having problem similar to dhegarty with my 2001 GMC 2500 HD Ext Cab SWB. Dealer simply told me, "They all do that!" I have submitted email to GMC, guess I'll have to wait and see what they say. Mine rides so bad my wife gets motion sickness! Tim
I met another 2500HD crew cab sb owner today and he is having the same problem. I drive mine all day long every day and by the middle of the afternoon I start feeling nautious. When I see a bump in the road ahead I grip the steering wheel real tight and tense up. Its like riding a roller coaster. There is no way that this truck should ride like this. Do you think its your engine or the suspension? Im convinced its my engine because it shakes on a smooth road. Its a shame that such a beautiful truck can ride so bad. Maybe Ill just look at it and go test drive a new Dodge! By 5pm today I was ready to trade it for a Radio-flyers WAGON my sons all terrain wagon sure rides smoother!!!!!!!!!!!
I traded in a 99 Z71 because of tranny problems that Chevy wouldn't admit to. Should've known better, but I purchased another GM product. A 2001 Sierra, two wheel drive. This transmission (18,000 miles) is "shuddering" (slipping)when shifting between first and second. Moreso with the a/c going. Anyone having any similiar problems? I haven't visited the service section yet, not prepped for the fight yet!
I don't have your ride issues with my crew cab. You said it may be the motor, do you have the 6.0? My 8.1 rides nice, firm, but it really is a 1-ton chassis. -Eric
Eric, I have the 6.0 w/4.10 rear end. Friend of mine rode with me today and he believes it's simply the tires... has anyone tried different brand or load rated tires???
I changed the black donuts supplied for some Bridgestone dueler A/T 285/75/16 but didnt get the shakes until after the dealer changed the ignition coil to stop rough idling.
Which coil? Doesn't the 6.0 have individual coils for each plug? I would definitely seek out service for this since it didn't happen until after they worked on it. -Eric
dhegarty--- I just took a Chevy dealer service tech for a ride in my "Rock & Rollin'" HD, he hasn't experienced this exact problem with the HDs but he's had this happen in other vehicle... he thinks it's the slip yoke! THe one on my HD is sealed, he thinks it was shipped ungreased from the factory and isn't allowing the drive shaft to travel back and forth with the road and it binding cause the little surges when the rear end binds up. That may also be causing the "popping" noise from the springs.
He said if it IS a dry slip yoke, it will become obvious at some point when the vibration rips out the carrier bearing and your drive shaft, universal joints, bearings and maybe even your rear axle is scattered in the street.
Too bad this guy can only work on Chevy's, I told him that if my dealer couldn't fix my GMC, I'd lemon law it and come buy a Chevy from him!
I have an appointment with the owner of the dealership where I've been trying to get this thing fixed. Maybe this will encourage them to do something, post your e-mail... heck email me your phone # and I'll call you if this fixes my problem!
Anyone esle have an idea about this proposed solution???
that policy. You can take any Ford vehicle to any Ford or L/M Dealer for warranty work. You certainly should be able to have a Chevy or GMC truck fixed at either. I had my '92 Chevy Pickup break down right in front of a GMC Dealer and they had to tow it to a Chevy Dealer! DUH!
from what I've heard, if you have a GM vehicle and have an emergency repair you can go to any GM dealer for repair, if you had purchased lets say a GMC from a Chevy dealer and it's under the warranty period, the selling dealer can do the warranty work on the vehicle. You just can't buy a GMC, and then because for example you get better service at the Chevy dealer, and have warranty repairs done at the Chev. garage.
you SHOULD be able to. Just as you can with a Ford @ L/M. I have a Chevy Dealer that is much more convenient than either of the GMC Dealers, but I can't have warranty work done there on my GMC. I take my Explorer to the L/M Dealer because it's closer.
When I drove my 89 GMC down to America in 1990 I tried to have a Chevy dealer look at it for a possible problem. They told me that I had to go to a GMC dealer for any warranty work. That's been my only experience with that situation. Once the warranty expires, I'm sure any Chevy dealer would be more than happy to work on my new GMC.
The GMPP extended warranty will allow you to go to any GM dealership. I did with my last truck. Used the hell out of it. Picked my truck apart just before the 100,000 and it paid for itself 4 times over...
My '01 Sierra Z71 (2500 miles) has same 1-2 upshift shudder, though only sporadically. I noticed it soon after taking delivery. Had the service manager drive it around one morning and of course it didn't shudder. He even had me drive it and came along as a passenger. I'm just trying to ignore it for now, though I get a sinking feeling in my stomach every time it happens!
Well... I picked my HD up from my dealer yesterday after the third trip to the shop for vibration. All he did was run a "vibration analysis." According to him my truck is well within GM standards for vibration! WOW... I'd hate to have to ride in one that is outside parameters!
Today I finally took my truck to another GMC Certified Service Center. I chatted with the service writer, he called another service advisory to go for a ride in my truck. After I briefly explained my problems, they talked a minute or two, then we drove the truck... THe guy started asking me questions about the truck and after 2-3 miles he started recommending several things they could do to help correct the problem. His #1 suspicion is engine "LEAN SURGE" he claims GM has a fix which calls for reprograming the computer. He thinks he can fix or at least significantly improve my situation... WHY DIDN'T I GO TO THESE GUYS IN THE FIRST PLACE.
GMC Customer Assistance is suppose to be calling me tomorrow as a followup on my shop visit Wed. I think I'm gonna play dumb and see if they have any offers or alternatives for repair...
FINALLY a GMC Service Tech that will actually admit there's a problem with my truck!!! HALLALUJAH!!!!!!
I spoke with GMC Customer Assistance Friday afternoon. They asked me if that since they had had their 3 attempts to diagnosis or repair the truck if I was ready to begin the BBB Arbitration process. I told them that I was willing to let another dealer service department that I had contacted try to resolve the problem, but if that wasn't successful I'd start the proceedings. The GMC Customer rep is supposed to call me Tues. and see if we have had a successful visit. If anyone has any info or has been through BBB, I'd sure like to hear from them. I've read the information on the web site... it sounds relatively painless. I hear Georgia's "Lemon Law" is supposed to favor the consumer. Does anyone have any idea if I'd be better off pursuing BBB vs. GA Lemon Law? I know BBB is not binding on the consumer and I assume the lemon law is on both parties. Should I retain an attorney if I decide to go the lemon law route? Drew, I'll try to call you next week as soon as I hear something from this new shop. I'm going to have to go to Memphis Tues. so I might not know anything or be able to get back to you until later in the week. I will still be able to e-mail though.
Tim, I did have a friend who pursued the Lemon Law and won. He obtained a lawyer(on contingency) before anything and was told the law does favor the consumer. But he was instructed to go through the arbitration procedure first. When they didn't come back with an acceptable decision they rejected it and filed in court. It was settled out. I guess you don't have to have a lawyer right from the beginning but it may help in your negotiations.
I was curious as well. I have my 2000 1500 in for a recurring 4WD problem(in addition to other problems). Seems like I have a rental car more than my truck. It's been out of service for about 45 days over the last 12 months. Unfortunately the mileage is too high for the Lemon Law in IL. I took it to a different dealer after the first two attempts by my original dealer were a joke. I've already had a new transfer case put in. Now they are putting in a new front differential. On top of this I have developed that 5.3 knock that has been discussed. I really don't like the idea of having all these replacement parts in a newer truck. This fix may take care of the 4WD problem but, after reading this board was thinking of going straight to the BBB to, at the very least, obtain the extended warranty. Does anybody have any input if this is the way to go or should I contact customer service first?
Having been this route on a '94 GMC Safari I can give some first hand details. Vehicle had 4 CPI fuel injectors fail within 2K miles. There was so much cooling system sealer added to the antifreeze (required when the CPI manifold is opened) without flushing the system that the cooling system finally blocked and blew a heater hose to pieces. GM looked at the repair history and immediately offered a buyout. The service department strongly supported this position as they knew I understood the problem and was not backing down. I found out later that in Texas if the manufacturer does a buyback, they can turn around and sell the vehicle at auction with a clear title as a, you guessed it, "program car". The warranty registration change did not catch up with the title change, and for several months I got surveys from a dealership in Houston wanting to know if my warranty work had been satifactorily performed. I just hope whoever got that van bought an extended warranty, because the initial problem with the CPI was corrected, but that engine had a compromised cooling system due to four applications of cooling system sealer without a flush. Can you say constipated?
Last Friday, GM told my dealer's service director that the redesigned pistons are now being installed in the engines. So, he and the shop foreman "persuaded" GM to replace the engine in my truck rather that just replace the pistons. The engine arrived this week, and it will be installed next week. Let's hope GM "got it right" this time.
By the way, the slap has been getting progressively worse with 20K miles now on the truck. The cold startup knock is much louder, and it persists longer into the warmup period. It disappears only when the engine is completely warmed up.
I have a concern which I haven't seen posted here yet. When I'm sitting at a light in my '99 1500 2WD ext. cab, I generally ease forward every once in awhile like most drivers do. When I let off the brake, it seems to take about a half second before the truck will move, and feels like the frame wants to move before the truck actually starts rolling. When I step on the brake, I can feel the truck shift as if the frame would catch before the rest of the truck wants to stop. It's really hard to explain, but I can sit at a light and gently accelerate and brake, and feel what appears to be the frame shifting from the body each time.
My initial thought was that it took an extra half second for the disc brakes to shift and grab, but this happens when starting off as well. Could this be a transmission-slipping problem? Has anyone else experienced this.
My 2000 Sierra 1500 has some of the same symptons you describe. It felt to me like the brakes were grabbing.
The dealer first said that the problem was due to the driveshaft yoke binding on the transmission tailshaft. They removed the driveshaft and applied a new grease - that didn't cure the problem. Now they say that the problem is due to the isolators on the front springs allowing the springs to jerk around. They will installed the "new and improved" insulators next week. We'll see what happens.
I have a 2000 Sierra Ext Cab Z71 and when the transmission shifts around 45 mph, sometimes it is quite harsh. Dealer can't duplicate so says it is not a warranty issue. Truck has 34,500 miles so I am concerned about warranty issues when truck passes the magic 36k mark. Anyone else had this same issue?
I have 3700 miles on my truck and brought it in for it's 2nd oil change[it was free]. Told the service mang. that it was knocking when it first starts up and also after I start it up warm. He said GM is aware of the problem and there is a fix coming. I also told him from a dead stop, I get a clunk., for a split second, like a tooth is missing from a gear. He said I don't have many miles on the truck and to put on some more miles and if it still happens, to bring it in. DUHHHHH, moron, if the problem is there now, how is it supposed to go away? Where does GM find these clowns. They get paid for being stupid.
Comments
I know a GM tech who has put bearings in the 5.3 on several times. I told him I thought it was piston slap but he said no its bottom end.
Anyone get this one solved by dealer or GM yet !!
Ill keep ya posted. oh ya other problems to date:
-trans sometimes starts out in 2nd gear(about 6 times since new)
-vibration at 65
-pulsating brakes, rotors had to be turned at low kms
-pop in steering wheel- shaft replacement
-squeek at front cv boot/seal
-leaf spring slap-noise over bumps
you deserve assistance!! My .02.
My 99 Sierra Ext Cab 4 wheel drive with the 5.3 and 33000 miles also has the piston slap at start up. I was probably one of those that did not notice it until I read these posts and actually listened for it. From what I have been told from the parts manager at a reputable dealer, it has to do with the tolerances of the piston. Do to this defect, carbon is building up in the cylinder walls. This is why decarbonizing the cylinders works for a little while. The carbon just comes back.
GM is coming out with a new piston probably by the end of the year. I, for one, am not going to let them tear my engine apart and put in new pistons. I already had over 20 problems with the truck and do have the 6yr/100,000 mi. warranty thanks to dealing with the BBB. I filed a claim on a Sunday and was contacted by a zone rep on Wednesday. She gave me the warranty over the phone. She did ask for the service records to verify my problems.
Three weeks later, I have the warranty card. I should have pushed for a buy back but I had 28000 mi on the truck before the first repair. I had some minor ones pop up that I thought I would wait on until some more showed up and do everything at once. Ohio Lemon Law says 1 year or 18000 mi. Next time I buy a vehicle, I will get things repaired ASAP in case I have to use the Lemon Law.
My problems:
Accelerator pedal sticking...replace throttle body
Clunk in steering shaft...replace intermediate shaft
Rattle in front A pillar...replace both moldings
Clicking in steering wheel...replace SIR coil
Rotors severely rusted...replace all 4 and pads
A\C Compressor noise...replace compressor and evaporator
Wind noise rear quarters...replace both quarter windows
Third door hard closing...adjust latches
Driveline clunk...greased on 2 different occasions
Cruise inoperable...replace cable
Driver door window inoperable...lubricate window seals
Banging in left front...tighten hood hinge bolts
Banging in rear...greased spring shackles
Piston slap...normal
Paint wearing off rim caps...replace all 4
Wind noise from windshield...reseal windshield
Cruise again inoperable...replace connector
Instrument panel rattle...fixed with 2 sided tape
Lights dimming in cold weather...Could not duplicate
Cupholder rattle...Could not duplicate
ABS activating prematurely...Could not duplicate
About the clunking in the driveline. GM is telling me they are coming out with a new yoke that should correct the problem. They do not recommend greasing with the blue stuff or using the spring as some of you may have heard.
Problems as yet to be fixed:
Clunking in driveline
Banging in rear end of truck (springs?)
Transmission banging in second (this is more than the harsh 1-2 shifts. Dealer says normal...gear lash)
Lights dimming in cold weather
But guess what? Neither of my driving lights in the front have burned out yet.
Thanks obyone, ricsch, ryanbab, gator36, modvptnl amd everyone else who I might have not named. Thanks to all of you, I have most things fixed and an extended warranty free of charge.
alternator is weak
I notice when you are idling and rolling up the windows the lights dim
Possible fix would be a higher output alternator
Ryan
-Eric
He said if it IS a dry slip yoke, it will become obvious at some point when the vibration rips out the carrier bearing and your drive shaft, universal joints, bearings and maybe even your rear axle is scattered in the street.
Too bad this guy can only work on Chevy's, I told him that if my dealer couldn't fix my GMC, I'd lemon law it and come buy a Chevy from him!
I have an appointment with the owner of the dealership where I've been trying to get this thing fixed. Maybe this will encourage them to do something, post your e-mail... heck email me your phone # and I'll call you if this fixes my problem!
Anyone esle have an idea about this proposed solution???
etimbers a.k.a. ernest t
I did with my last truck. Used the hell out of it. Picked my truck apart just before
the 100,000 and it paid for itself 4 times over...
Extended warranty for your vehicle. That is what the 6/100,000 mile warranty is through.
Deductable. Makes life easier...
Today I finally took my truck to another GMC Certified Service Center. I chatted with the service writer, he called another service advisory to go for a ride in my truck. After I briefly explained my problems, they talked a minute or two, then we drove the truck... THe guy started asking me questions about the truck and after 2-3 miles he started recommending several things they could do to help correct the problem. His #1 suspicion is engine "LEAN SURGE" he claims GM has a fix which calls for reprograming the computer. He thinks he can fix or at least significantly improve my situation... WHY DIDN'T I GO TO THESE GUYS IN THE FIRST PLACE.
GMC Customer Assistance is suppose to be calling me tomorrow as a followup on my shop visit Wed. I think I'm gonna play dumb and see if they have any offers or alternatives for repair...
FINALLY a GMC Service Tech that will actually admit there's a problem with my truck!!! HALLALUJAH!!!!!!
Tim
I was curious as well. I have my 2000 1500 in for a recurring 4WD problem(in addition to other problems). Seems like I have a rental car more than my truck. It's been out of service for about 45 days over the last 12 months. Unfortunately the mileage is too high for the Lemon Law in IL. I took it to a different dealer after the first two attempts by my original dealer were a joke. I've already had a new transfer case put in. Now they are putting in a new front differential. On top of this I have developed that 5.3 knock that has been discussed. I really don't like the idea of having all these replacement parts in a newer truck. This fix may take care of the 4WD problem but, after reading this board was thinking of going straight to the BBB to, at the very least, obtain the extended warranty. Does anybody have any input if this is the way to go or should I contact customer service first?
Last Friday, GM told my dealer's service director that the redesigned pistons are now being installed in the engines. So, he and the shop foreman "persuaded" GM to replace the engine in my truck rather that just replace the pistons. The engine arrived this week, and it will be installed next week. Let's hope GM "got it right" this time.
By the way, the slap has been getting progressively worse with 20K miles now on the truck. The cold startup knock is much louder, and it persists longer into the warmup period. It disappears only when the engine is completely warmed up.
My initial thought was that it took an extra half second for the disc brakes to shift and grab, but this happens when starting off as well. Could this be a transmission-slipping problem? Has anyone else experienced this.
The dealer first said that the problem was due to the driveshaft yoke binding on the transmission tailshaft. They removed the driveshaft and applied a new grease - that didn't cure the problem. Now they say that the problem is due to the isolators on the front springs allowing the springs to jerk around. They will installed the "new and improved" insulators next week. We'll see what happens.
Jim
Tell them you want the blue stuff!!!
ill post the link in a min
A possible fix hopefully its as easy as this
Funny though since they changed the fluid in my truck i havent had any problems. I may have this repalced just for the heck of it