This past week the temp. was cold enough to turn the heat on in my truck. I like to drive with the window open so i cranked the heat up. When i i was warm enough i turned the temp down and noticed that the temp did not go down. So this is the problem, fan speed on high (5) temp on hottest setting and you turn it to the coldest it will not change temp, still blows hot, if i slow the speed down 4,3,2 it will change temp. Now if i am not moving the heater will operate fine at whatever speed the fan is at. Thanks
Well filed a report with the BBB for 4WD problem and engine knock. Since I drive over 23,000 miles a year they offered me the GMPP for 48mo/75,000 miles.
I have also started feeling a slight 'ticking' in the steering wheel. Started as I was driving into a right hand turns but now is getting worse and occurs at most turns and when I come to a complete stop. It feels like something is coming loose in the steering column. Anyone experience this? It doesn't have the clunk that the TSB indicates so I don't know if it's the same problem. Thanks.
happening in the left front of my 2001 when I do a hard right turn (like into a side street) at close to 20mph. It's both a sound and a feel and I can't tell if it's something with the PS pump or something else. I have just 10k miles on mine. This has been happening for a few weeks now.
I too have experienced on rare occasions something like a slip or something not engaging in the drive system. It seems like something is slipping in the differential but I'm not sure..I have the Limited Slip option...Maybe they meant unlimited slip??? :)Anyonw with ideas?
Try this... Park and roll your windows up. Turn the radio off. Slowly turn the wheels side to side. Does it make the noise while doing this? Mine makes a chirping (maybe creaking) noise. Service manager thinks it may be a PS hose. It hasn't bugged me too much so it hasn't been high on my list of things to do. (take it and leave my truck at the dealer all day) Otherwise...My truck has never been in the shop... 6,800 excellent miles and counting....
I inquired about the 6/100 they told me it was a case by case basis and in my case I was offered 4/75. I tried to force the issue but they said whatever anybody else received for the same problem was not the issue. I was told I could decline the offer but I wouldn't get anything else through the BBB. Is this true or are they just playing hardball. Any suggestions?
After reading back a bit on the difference between GMPP and Major Guard, the Major Guard is GMPP with a $0.00 deductible. If that is the case, I wouldn't settle for the GMPP 4/75 and would hold out for the Major Guard at 6/100.
When I first submitted my complaint to the BBB, I had filed with the intent of buyback. I was contacted by the GM rep and after hearing my complaints, stated that in no way would GM buyback my truck. I had replied that its a good thing that his opinion doesn't matter rather that the arbitrator will actually determine whether GM will buy it back or not.
In my case, I had high mileage and about $10K of aftermarket upgrades on the truck. Clearly, I didn't want buyback or Lemon Law. Course, I didn't let the BBB or the GM rep know this. So when asked by the BBB if I would settle for anything other than buyback, my offer was 6/100 Major Guard. The BBB person called me back within 15 minutes and said the GM rep approved the Major Guard. What a lot of people don't know is that your extended warranty runs concurrent with your 3/36 factory one. So in essence based on your annual mileage, you would be out of warranty in 3.5 years. Looking at it that way, what do you have to lose by holding out for the 6/100?
BTW, who told you that you could decline the offer but wouldn't get anything else through the BBB?
The fellow who contacted me originally after I filed the complaint. I called him back regarding the 6/100. He told me he sent out the information on the 4/75(no deductible) because he thought we had a 'verbal' agreement. I told him I wouldn't agree to anything based off a phone conversation. I had to see it in writing. At that point he wanted my decision right on the spot whether I would accept the 4/75 or decline it. If I chose to decline the offer he said he would clear it from the computer. Then to be 'honest' with me he said I wouldn't be able to get anything else through the BBB once the offer was declined.
That is most unusual. From what I've heard, the agreement is worked THROUGH the BBB. After my initial contact with the rep, I had no conversations with him and only with the BBB person assigned to my case. She was the individual that contacted and worked as a liason between GM and myself. I would suggest that you contact the BBB person assigned to your case and discuss it with them. For myself, I don't see much gain in warranty since you are putting 23k miles a year, warranty will be up in no time tho the 75k will help it through what most consider the standard warranty period. Since I didn't have the conversation with the rep, I couldn't say for sure whether he is bluffing or not. So the safest route would be to handle everything through the BBB and let them document the GM rep's offer. At that point, you can also ask the BBB person what are your options as I'm sure you can counteroffer on the initial offering by GM.
I've been through the BBB routine and it seemed more than a few times that it was me versus both GM and the BBB. Once you reject a BBB decision they're done with you. But they do remind you that you "may pursue other legal remedies under state and federal laws". Good advice, if you can stay with it a little longer it will pay off.
I filed the complaint on the BBB website. So far the only contact I received was the one from the GM service rep. I haven't received any contact or information about a BBB rep. assigned to the case. Do they usually contact you or should I contact them directly to find out who the rep. is? Thanks for all your input.
Regarding the complaint that you filed online....what exactly was it for? buyback?
The same thing happened to me where the GM rep contacted me first then the follow up by the BBB person assigned to your complaint. I guess they give the GM rep a shot at resolving the issue without their involvement other than passing the complaint on to GM first. I'm not positive but it looks like complaints filed for buyback gets preference. Not sure how long your case has been worked on , but if you're getting impatient, can't see any reason why not to call the BBB.
My case was similar. I filed online with the BBB for a buyback on a Sunday. I had over 20 problems with my 99 Sierra ext cab 4WD with 22000 miles. The following Thursday, a rep from GM called regarding the complaint filed. She went over the problems with the truck and was more interested in the problems that have not been fixed yet after at least 1 attempt.
She asked me what I wanted from GM. I told her a buy back. She said that GM would not buy it back. I told her that I knew GM would refuse to buy it back and that what I was really interested in was GM backing up their truck with an extended warranty. She told me that she would give me the GMPP Major Guard 6yr/100,000Mi. The Major Guard has a zero deductible. She could do this right now over the phone. I accepted the offer.
A week later, I received the forms from the BBB regarding the online complaint. They wanted forms filled out and returned to them. I did nothing because I already had the warranty.
About 3 weeks later, I got a letter from the BBB saying they would drop my claim because they did not hear from me. There was a person assigned to my case and her name and number were on the letter along with my "claim number vs. Pontiac/GMC".
I called her and dropped my claim because I had received my warranty in the mail the day before I got her letter.
To make a long story short jdgoat, you should have someone assigned to your case at the BBB. I had Tammy Scaife at extension 526. The main number is 800-955-5100. They are located in Arlington VA.
I have a 98 GMC Sierra 4X4 automatic, shortbed, 22,500 miles. This truck has pulled to the right ever since I got it - have complained to dealer multiple times. They did an alignment while it was under warranty once for free, and I had to pay two months ago for another one - I got the truck back and then it pulled to the LEFT! I complained again, and they just put four brand-new tires on it, claiming that it was the tires. Well, that's great, because now I have four new tires for FREE, BUT it still PULLS TO THE RIGHT!!! Now what? Anyone else heard of this or have any suggestions? Thanks.
Take it an alignment shop. Just because the dealer says it is within "spec", the range is too great and probably needs some tweaking that a good alignment shop could do. Plus I'm sure it will be worth the $50 or so to rid yourself of the problem once and for all or find that its something that the dealer missed.
I agree with Obyone. Take it to a good shop ( ask around for who is good and who is not). A good shop will get it right on for you, and if they don't get it right the first time, they will make it good. . They will probably ask you about where you typically drive as that tells them how to set it up for "your driving." The dealers typically do not speciallize in front end alignments, and many times do not do it themselves. I am half owner in a shop and we do front end and brake work for a number of dealers which include Chevy, Ford, Honda. We also get customized brand new Chevys for front end work after the lowering equipment has been installed. Also for collision shops which is whole different set of problems.. Good luck, cowboyjohn
My question is based on shop talk. I'm wondering if anyone has exsperienced any problems with this engine. I've heard that these are actually izusu diesels, is this correct?? Also I was told that they have aluminum heads on them, and that there is problems with the design?? I can't hardly believe that you could have aluminum heads on a diesel. Is this due to technology after my time?? I'm looking at puchasing a GMC with the diesel. Sounds like they have other problems also. I'm thinking that these are few between. Or are these many?????? Looking for some answers to these pondering questions of mine....THanks. John
I asked some questions w/msg#424. Mike L and Don answered with a nice reply and complement to the Izusu engines in the GMC pickups. But neither one answered any of my questions. I was also wondering if Mike and Don are proud owners of the new Izusu, GMC pickup?? I was a heavy duty mechanic for about 24 years and I haven't really been around any equipment or diesel engines in the last ten years. I also used to have my own automotive garage. That is the reason, I was looking for some answers ..........................JOHN
Im considering ordering a new 2002 GMC Serria HD 2500 Crew Cab. Im looking to get a 8.1 with the Allison Trans. Also locking rear,373 gears,and the heavy duty packages. Although this well not be used for everyday use, it will be required to eventually tow and go on long trips to the mountains. I have been reading posts and I see several have had engine problems as well as a list of other symptoms. I haven't seen to much on the allison or the 8.1 2500 HD. Does anyone have any information or suggestions.
No, I don't need, want or own a diesel. If I were in the market for one, I would consider the Duramax.
I have a 2000 2500 6.0L w/iron heads. I would have waited and gotten a 2001 w/aluminum heads, but I was concerned GM would no offer a std cab longbed 4x4 2500 in 2001. GM did drop that model for 2001, so I'm happy with my choice even though I would prefer aluminum heads.
Why would I want aluminum heads? Less weight? Not a big deal on a truck that weighs 7500lbs driving down the road. More consistent performance - yes. Because of better heat transfer, the aluminum will keep a more constant temp in the cylinder. Less knock caused by hotspots. Potentially more advance, better power and economy.
I don't know if any of that applies to a diesel engine. But, I do believe the durability of aluminum heads has improved in the last 20+ years to the point where the head material should not be a concern. If it is a concern for you, then you have to weigh that and decide for yourself if you want to run that engine.
Count on at least 16 weeks to get an ordered truck. And BTW, don't order dual batteries as this pushed my truck back 6 times. Ordered June 13 and still don't have it.Good Luck.
Thanks Jrkrace. I thought it would be a long wait. Do you know of any problems with this vehicle. I have read some stories here of engine knocks and replacements that have me concerned about my choice. I plan to keep this vehicle a long time.
You described my truck exactly. I do have the cold start engine knock, but other than that, no issues. As for the engine knock, it is barely audible, and goes away after 20 seconds or so. GM is claiming that this is now normal.
It does tend to be a pain to park (legnth + large turning radius) and it does eat gas (I have averaged 10mpg to date, mostly city driving). Others have complained of oil consumption issues, but mine does not seem as bad (less than 1 qt between changes -3000 miles).
All in all it is a great truck, and if you could pick one up w/ the current finance deals GM is offering, I would recommend it. -Eric
I told my dealer that if the truck is not here by the 15th, he can cancel my order and refund my deposit. I will then proceed to another dealer, probably Chevy, and buy the damn thing off the lot.I bet Chevy will have a lot more trucks than GMC. If that does'nt work...Super Duty here I come!!
I drive a super duty with the powerstroke motor to work and I also have a 2001 Silverado LS with 5300 motor at home. Fords are alright to work out of, but they just don't meet my needs for a personal truck. Superduty has been back to dealer four times in 1200 miles. 200 miles bad alternator. 600 miles dead battery. 650 leaking coolant. Did'nt fix back in at 650 miles leaking coolant, replaced waterpump. Noticed after returned to me that coolant resevoir was about 1/2 gallon below minimum mark. Back in at 690 to top off coolant. Quality is job one? Notice new little noises about every day . GM truck 4500 miles and solid and smooth.
I DO regret NOT buying a Super Duty... GM definitely has a lot of work to get the HD's up to snuff! They may pull like a horse... but they ride like a broken down wagon... TC
I also looked at a SuperDuty and was convinced for a while that it was the way to go. When GM improved performance I think the stars that I didn't purchase it. I myself am looking forward to purchasing a GMC HD just hope I don't get a lemon.
i thought by getting rid of ford aode, 1 finally got rid of shudder problem. now my 01' sierra 1500 5.3 auto has same problem with 1-2 shift. on fords with 4.6 and 4speed auto, the tranny fluid breaks down ang cause converter to fail. their fix is to use mercon v instead of mercon iii. good...really good tranny flush and new fluid fixed the problem. i see that several others had same problem on the sierra/silverado. anyone come across any fix?
If you remember in 1999 the first 5.3 motors with 270 horse were mated to a tranny that was too soft and many were blown up by new owners who loved tearing [non-permissible content removed] with these motors.It took GM a while to correct this and firm up the trans(similar to a shift kit).You did not specify but it sounds like you have 245/16 tires to be feeling it that much.I took delevery of my 01 GMC 5.3 in 11/2000 and that was the first thing I noticed and was back at my dealer the next day.i was told this was normal and to confirm this I drove 3 other similar engine and rear axle trucks.Not until I drove a Z71 with 265 tires did I feel a difference.So off to my local tire dealer i went and recived a real nice credit on those 245 car tires.Switched to 265Wrangler RFA (CRAZY EXPENSIVE) and the problem was MUCH MUCH better.You do need to have your dealer recalibrate your computer for speedo and ABS,about 10 minutes.Finally if you already have 265 tires on your truck-have your dealer perform a tranny program update.Good luck.
for my 2001 Sierra (12k miles). Have a sound like a door creaking in the left front when I make a hard right turn. BTW....rented a PT Cruiser for the day. Looks cool but don't care for driving it. Especially when you're used to the power of the 5.3!
I have that problem too (I'm at 12K miles as well), but it happens when I turn Left. I have not made it to the dealer yet to fix it. What is the problem? How do they fix it? And it better be covered under the warranty?
a rubber isolator for the rack and pinion steering. Fist call they told me it was a spring isolator but changed when they called back with an update. Yes it was covered. One of those deals where lots of labor to replace a 99 cent part methinks.
These are a few sounds I have been able to find and fix. One was a creaking sound coming from what I thought was my dash, it was the parking break cable rubbing on the frame under the door. I put a zip tie on it and sprayed with silicone. Had to adjust door latches to pull the doors tighter. And the latest one is the pin on the back doors that when the front doors are shut it will not allow the back doors to unlatch I sprayed with silicone and it stopped the creaking. I live on a dirt road and drive slow so I hear any noise especially one that is new.
I formally filed my claim with BBB on Oct 31, 2001 requesting GM buy back my 2001 GMC 2500 HD (4x2, 6.0, auto, ext cab, swb) due to continuous vibration. One dealer has guessed it maybe the torque converter, another something called "lean surge".
I get a continuous vibration at any speed, like a tire out of balance, but it doesn't vary, it's always there.
If any of you have experienced or more importantly had a GM rep diagnosed anything similar with the 6.0 4x2 HD's, I'd love to hear from you.
I will need your real name, some way to contact you (e-mail will work for starters) and city, state information. If you like I guess you could just note the information on this web site, just note it that it pertains to this post.
Thanks a million folks, I hope this post isn't out of line.
Hopefully, this nightmare with GM will be over soon and I can go pick up that FORD SUPER-DUTY I spied on the dealers lot the other day!!
I heard of owners running Diesel grade motor oil in their Chevy/GMC Gas truck engines, one guy at work started with Diesel oil since day one of his new truck, back in 87, and put 300k on it, pulled off the valve covers and it's very clean, and runs great. So, I'm experimenting, now running with 10w30 Diesel motor oil in my 2000 5.3, it has eliminated the annoying engine knock at startup. I'm not an expert in any way, but I have owned a couple Diesel trucks in the past, and Diesels run very dirty, lots of carbon, oil is black when draining/changing it. Diesel oil is formulated with high detergents to keep them clean. So for an extra buck a pint for Diesel oil, I'll see how it works out. If any mechanics know of a disadvantage using Diesel oil in a gas engine, any info would be appreciated. I called the Dealer, and the Service rep said their mechanics frown upon the use of Diesel motor oil, other than hurting their feelings, I still don't know what the disadvantage is.
Mike (one of many Canadians who support the US along with an American Flag decal on my GMC truck)
Comments
I have also started feeling a slight 'ticking' in the steering wheel. Started as I was driving into a right hand turns but now is getting worse and occurs at most turns and when I come to a complete stop. It feels like something is coming loose in the steering column. Anyone experience this? It doesn't have the clunk that the TSB indicates so I don't know if it's the same problem. Thanks.
Jim
up?
Park and roll your windows up.
Turn the radio off.
Slowly turn the wheels side to side.
Does it make the noise while doing this?
Mine makes a chirping (maybe creaking)
noise. Service manager thinks it may be
a PS hose. It hasn't bugged me too much
so it hasn't been high on my list of
things to do. (take it and leave my truck
at the dealer all day) Otherwise...My truck has never been in the shop...
6,800 excellent miles and counting....
When I first submitted my complaint to the BBB, I had filed with the intent of buyback. I was contacted by the GM rep and after hearing my complaints, stated that in no way would GM buyback my truck. I had replied that its a good thing that his opinion doesn't matter rather that the arbitrator will actually determine whether GM will buy it back or not.
In my case, I had high mileage and about $10K of aftermarket upgrades on the truck. Clearly, I didn't want buyback or Lemon Law. Course, I didn't let the BBB or the GM rep know this. So when asked by the BBB if I would settle for anything other than buyback, my offer was 6/100 Major Guard. The BBB person called me back within 15 minutes and said the GM rep approved the Major Guard. What a lot of people don't know is that your extended warranty runs concurrent with your 3/36 factory one. So in essence based on your annual mileage, you would be out of warranty in 3.5 years. Looking at it that way, what do you have to lose by holding out for the 6/100?
BTW, who told you that you could decline the offer but wouldn't get anything else through the BBB?
The same thing happened to me where the GM rep contacted me first then the follow up by the BBB person assigned to your complaint. I guess they give the GM rep a shot at resolving the issue without their involvement other than passing the complaint on to GM first. I'm not positive but it looks like complaints filed for buyback gets preference. Not sure how long your case has been worked on , but if you're getting impatient, can't see any reason why not to call the BBB.
She asked me what I wanted from GM. I told her a buy back. She said that GM would not buy it back. I told her that I knew GM would refuse to buy it back and that what I was really interested in was GM backing up their truck with an extended warranty. She told me that she would give me the GMPP Major Guard 6yr/100,000Mi. The Major Guard has a zero deductible. She could do this right now over the phone. I accepted the offer.
A week later, I received the forms from the BBB regarding the online complaint. They wanted forms filled out and returned to them. I did nothing because I already had the warranty.
About 3 weeks later, I got a letter from the BBB saying they would drop my claim because they did not hear from me. There was a person assigned to my case and her name and number were on the letter along with my "claim number vs. Pontiac/GMC".
I called her and dropped my claim because I had received my warranty in the mail the day before I got her letter.
To make a long story short jdgoat, you should have someone assigned to your case at the BBB. I had Tammy Scaife at extension 526. The main number is 800-955-5100. They are located in Arlington VA.
Hope this helps out
cowboyjohn
I can't hardly believe that you could have aluminum heads on a diesel. Is this due to technology after my time??
I'm looking at puchasing a GMC with the diesel. Sounds like they have other problems also. I'm thinking that these are few between. Or are these many?????? Looking for some answers to these pondering questions of mine....THanks. John
Most problems I've seen reported on the these engines are phonies listed by jealous Ford and Dodge owners.
Mike L
-- Don
I was also wondering if Mike and Don are proud owners of the new Izusu, GMC pickup??
I was a heavy duty mechanic for about 24 years and I haven't really been around any equipment or diesel engines in the last ten years. I also used to have my own automotive garage. That is the reason, I was looking for some answers ..........................JOHN
I have a 2000 2500 6.0L w/iron heads. I would have waited and gotten a 2001 w/aluminum heads, but I was concerned GM would no offer a std cab longbed 4x4 2500 in 2001. GM did drop that model for 2001, so I'm happy with my choice even though I would prefer aluminum heads.
Why would I want aluminum heads? Less weight? Not a big deal on a truck that weighs 7500lbs driving down the road. More consistent performance - yes. Because of better heat transfer, the aluminum will keep a more constant temp in the cylinder. Less knock caused by hotspots. Potentially more advance, better power and economy.
I don't know if any of that applies to a diesel engine. But, I do believe the durability of aluminum heads has improved in the last 20+ years to the point where the head material should not be a concern. If it is a concern for you, then you have to weigh that and decide for yourself if you want to run that engine.
Mike L
It does tend to be a pain to park (legnth + large turning radius) and it does eat gas (I have averaged 10mpg to date, mostly city driving). Others have complained of oil consumption issues, but mine does not seem as bad (less than 1 qt between changes -3000 miles).
All in all it is a great truck, and if you could pick one up w/ the current finance deals GM is offering, I would recommend it.
-Eric
I get a continuous vibration at any speed, like a tire out of balance, but it doesn't vary, it's always there.
If any of you have experienced or more importantly had a GM rep diagnosed anything similar with the 6.0 4x2 HD's, I'd love to hear from you.
I will need your real name, some way to contact you (e-mail will work for starters) and city, state information. If you like I guess you could just note the information on this web site, just note it that it pertains to this post.
Thanks a million folks, I hope this post isn't out of line.
Hopefully, this nightmare with GM will be over soon and I can go pick up that FORD SUPER-DUTY I spied on the dealers lot the other day!!
TC
Mike (one of many Canadians who support the US along with an American Flag decal on my GMC truck)