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Comments
Some possibilities:
- too much fluid - maybe the excess came out?
- wrong fluid, and it is foaming, causing venting?
- water in the fluid - gets hot and boils?
- defective casting allowing fluid to be thrown from the ring gear to the vent
Have you changed the differential fluid? I would put in a synthetic fluid and see if it helps. Of course, I would like to look inside and check the location of the vent also.
Good luck,
Mike L
File In Section: 00 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 00-00-89-021
Date: August, 2000
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject:
Cross-line Warranty
Models:
2001 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention: All U.S. General Motors Dealers
Cross-line warranty capability was recently announced to wholesale personnel and GM dealers via a DCS administrative message and a hard copy letter was sent to GM dealers only. The following bulletin provides additional information for dealers wishing to perform cross-line warranty repairs. We have also provided a section for Frequently Asked Questions that will address additional inquiries we have received since the release of the DCS message.
One of the benefits of cross-line warranty is the ability to perform repairs for customers in an emergency situation. Since emergency situations can be subjective from a customer's perspective, the dealer will need to determine if the situation merits urgent attention. While additional tools or training are not required, dealers should exercise good judgment regarding their ability to perform the repair. The overall intent is to provide an opportunity for customer satisfaction in a potentially negative ownership experience. If the dealer has questions regarding a specific situation, they should be reviewed with the Area Service Manager (AVM).
The second instance in which cross-line warranty can be performed is for used vehicles. Any used GM vehicle resold by a GM dealer may obtain warranty service from the selling GM dealer regardless of the dealer's new vehicle franchise. This will be helpful to dealers who have sold a used vehicle to a customer that is different from their franchise and will not have to turn the customer away for any remaining warranty work.
Cross-line warranty is not to be a replacement for the GM Certified Used Vehicle process. This process still remains intact and is administered by the GM Certified Used Vehicle Department.
Lastly, cross-line warranty capability is now available for designated commercial light duty trucks. Designated commercial dealers are defined as those dealers that meet the standards of the Light Duty Commercial Program and have signed the Dealer Participation Agreement. The matrix should help in identifying which light duty commercial vehicles qualify for cross-line repairs by designated commercial dealers.
Frequently Asked Questions
When can I start to perform cross-line warranty repairs and which model year vehicles can I service?
You can now submit cross-line warranty claims for any model year vehicle with warranty remaining, provided that the repair fails within one of the three established and previously stated guidelines.
Can I promote my cross-line warranty capability?
No. After receiving input from both the National Dealer Council and GM, GM agreed that in order to protect brand identity and dealers' equity in their franchise, dealers will not be permitted to advertise cross-line warranty service by any means including direct mail or other dealer mailings. Any violation of this could result in on-site consultation, audit, dealer charge back or termination of cross-line capability.
Can I perform a recall repair if one is outstanding on a used vehicle or one that has come into my shop as a result of an emergency situation? Yes. The campaign should be completed if the customer is at the dealer under one of the three established and previously stated guidelines. However, dealers should always check General Motors Vehicle Inquiry Service (GMVIS) to see if there is an outstanding campaign prior to the vehicle being sold. Dealers also need to make sure that they have the right tools and training to perform any recall. How do I submit a warranty claim on a cross-line warranty repair?
No changes are necessary to the warranty claim payment submission process in accommodating cross-line warranty repairs. Submission of cross-line warranty repair claims within the warranty period are to be done following established business processes and practices. Wholesale authorization must be obtained for any claim outside the warranty period on a non-franchised vehicle.
Will cross-line customers be excluded from receiving CSI surveys?
No. Cross-line warranty repairs are projected to be minute and are not considered to be the core repair business of the dealership. In addition, exclusion would be difficult and would interfere with the statistically valid selection process CSI has in place.
Why are Saturn and Saab excluded from participating in cross-line warranty? Saturn and Saab each have unique warranty claim payment and parts distribution systems. This would make it particularly difficult for non-Saturn and Saab dealers to procure parts or obtain reimbursement for the repair.
Does cross-line warranty capability alter the Roadside Assistance policies?
No. Roadside Assistance parameters require the vehicle be directed first to the selling dealer when practical, then to the closest franchised dealer, and last, to the nearest GM dealer
Thanks,
dale madden
thanks for your help!
How can I check to see if the carrier bearing is bad or just the universal on that side is bad?
How hard is the to replace yourself? carrier bearing or universal?
I'm not driving my truck now, but will this hurt or cause any problems to drive on if I had to?
Thanks for the help
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 83-15-16
Date: October, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject:
New Windshield and Stationary Glass Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Models:
1990-99 All Passenger Cars and Trucks
As a result of a change from standard viscosity urethane to high-viscosity urethane, a new Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit, P/N 12346392, is now available from GMSPO. This kit contains the "High Viscosity" Urethane Adhesive for thicker and more consistent bead size applications. When applied properly, this new high viscosity urethane in many instances will eliminate the need for depth setting blocks or the damming material to control squeeze out. The following is the contents of the new kit:
Like the standard viscosity urethane contained in kit (P/N 12346284) that it replaces, it is a one-part, moisture cure product with curing times that vary as a result of changes in either temperature or humidity.
THE REQUIRED TIME FOR THIS NEW ONE-PART MATERIAL to ensure a safe installation of stationary glass before returning the vehicle to the customer, IS A MINIMUM OF SIX (6) HOURS AT 70°F (21°C) AND 30% RELATIVE HUMIDITY.
Alternate equivalent materials for this kit may be available from a local glass repair shop under the following product numbers:
Other manufacturers of Urethane Adhesive that have documented their ability to meet or exceed General Motors specification # 3651M (Performance Requirements for Stationary Glass Bonding Adhesive System Service) are also considered to be equivalent to GM Kit (P/N 12346392).
In previously published Corporate Bulletin Number 73-10-54, increasing customer demands for faster service have resulted in quicker two-part urethane adhesives to be made available. Essex Beta Seal U216* (two-part urethane adhesive) also meets the General Motors 3651M Specification and can be used when the customer demands quicker repair of the vehicle than the above described one-part product can provide.
This two-part, chemical cure product requires ONE (1) TO ONE-AND-ONE-HALF (1-1/2) HOURS FOR CURING BEFORE RETURNING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER. This two-part product also requires primers on the glass and pinchweld surfaces. The primers and applicator daubers are not included with this two-part product and therefore, must be purchased separately. In addition, this two-part product requires a special applicator (gun) for proper mixing and dispensing of the adhesive.
Important: The U216 product is NOT available from GMSPO and must be obtained locally.
* We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such products which may be available from other sources.
When using either of the above described products, make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for application and drying times. For information regarding the removal and installation of stationary glass, consult the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts information
P/N Description
12346392 Urethane Adhesive Caulking Kit
Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO, 10/12/98.
Important: The previously recommended adhesive kit (P/N 12346284) will no longer be available from GMSPO once inventory is exhausted.
There isn't any TSB that refers to bugshields.
The drive shaft was replaced last summer in my silverado 1500 2wd xcab for what was like a lurch or skip when i stepped on the gas after stopping, and the whole truck shook badly when towing.
1) Mostly, if I just try to hold the key on and try to start it, it will take 5-10 seconds, spitting, rough idle, then finally get going.
2) Or, if I first just hit the key once for a real short burst from the starter, turn the key off, then start like normal it starts right up. Strange?
Some have suggested a bad fuel pump anti-drain valve. Makes sense, but how does this explain the second scenario? Also, if it is the fuel pump do I have to replace the whole pump or just the valve?
thanks
Thank you-
Rachel
I have a 2001 Sierra 1500 Z71. It only has 14,000 miles on it.
It just recently developed a 'knocking' that I can hear AND slightly feel through the steering wheel - but it only happens when I am turning to the RIGHT and applying the brakes at the same time - and it's much worse over rough pavement. It seems to be coming from the front end drivers side wheel.
it's like when the suspension is 'active' (i.e. over rough pavement) and I'm braking and turning right it happens. It's not normal as I just started noticing it on my drive to work everyday when I exit the same offramp. Never was a problem before.
Any ideas that I can tell the dealer when I bring it in to look for? The first dealer I brought it in to claimed they couldn't notice it. Even my wife who is car-phobic notices it now.
thanks,
-brian
Have them check the steering intermediate shaft.
There is a procedure for the dealer to lube it and replace if nesessary.
I had a similar problem and the dealer replaced it.
-brian
I have had a couple of problems with my truck but they were relatively minor and the were all while it was under the standard warranty. I have not had any problem in the last 60,000 miles or so.
Damn there's one for the record book for longevity on the slapparado piston knock !
Ray T.
Im still scratching my head
My wife's 2000 Sierra had this problem. It started when the weather was really hot, like over 100 degrees, parked in the sun, but got steadily worse, until it was happening in 70 degree weather, and ocassionally stalling while in stop and go traffic.
I finally took it into the dealer and they diagnosed and fixed the problem in a couple hours. It was a leaking fuel pressure regulator. My understanding of the problem is that there was a pinhole leak in a diaphram in the pressure regulator, allowing fuel under pressure to leak out (and return to the fuel tank). Lowered pressure in the fuel lines then allows the fuel to flash vaporize, giving rise to vapor lock-like symptoms. The repair was cheap and her truck has been running fine since.
Jim
Other than that, nice truck and no complaints so far. Other than mileage. But then, it is a truck. Quad steering is a nice around-town feature....aside from attracting the funny looks.
Get a life.
Thanks
John
Ray T.
Ray T.