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Dodge Dakota Problems. Please help!
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Comments
If you had asked us before you bought your truck, we would have overwhelmingly told you to get the 4.7L V8 hemi. It gets better MPG than that ol'v6 and is a lot more fun to drive too.
I have touched 20MPG on long trips with my V8.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news...
Getting 14.5 mpg. Whine in rear end getting louder! Any fixes?
I posed a similar question in the Quad Cab forum. I noticed the high pitched whine as well. 5 star dealer mechanic said its the fuel pump working and that it should get more noticeable as the fuel tank empties. Only got one response to my query and someone else also agreed that it is probably the fuel pump. Have you questioned your dealer. If you take it just play dumb and see if they also say its the fuel pump. Otherwise my 4.7 manual runs like a dream.
Re: fuel mileage, 3rd tank 17 mpg, 4th tank 18 mpg. Not bad so far! My goal is to make 20!
Calipers not the problem nor driving habits. Consensus of group is cheap inferior quality rotors inherent to Dodge Dakotas and Jeep Cherokees. The garage (junk yard) is loaded with
burnt out rotors including a set that was scorched black (Mine). Came off a Chevy Cheyenne that literally caught fire as a result of seized calipers. Pulled over by State Trooper out of Orlando. Rotors heated to cause plastic hub to melt and fuse to metal.
Current rotors on my DAK obviously cannot dissipate heat as designed. Hence Vapor Blue Rotors.
I am told there is not enough metal left to turn rotors. I am willing to take book that my Dak (rotors) will fail as soon as it hits near 26k.
Other Dakota forums also discuss this subject and what I learned from reading the posts is that aftermarket is the only way to go.
Yes, DC definitely used inferior parts and/or design in the brakes. I know, I have been down the replacement scenario four times and I have not even turned 25K on the truck.
Maybe I should move to Kansas where I won't have to use the brakes as often? Seems like W PA hills are too much stress on Dakota brakes.
Just a thought.
Altho I dont have the immediate problems you have had.. i am watching my setup closely and will upgrade as time/money permits.
So. what are your thoughts on rotors? slotted, brand?? I figure if the pads are upgraded, so MUST the rotor...
My loyalties tie to Bendix since I have had good luck with them in the past.
However, I am open to what works on the Dak. Consensus is slotted works well.
ANd pads are a going too! I am tired of that nasty black dust.
anyway I see a new title brewing... DAK work/beer compensation gurus..
Brings two things to mind. One might be a leak in the exhaust or manifold. Or could be you have stinky AC syndrome due to plugged or restricted drain tube. I hear its a common affliction on Dakotas.
first at 12k 14k 24k. I continue to have rippling at stops. They say I must be doing something wrong, man I've had alot of vehicles and driven them all the same. Something is wrong with this picture. This truck is a piece of junk.
Calling your Dakota a "piece of junk" just because the bean counters at DC decided to install cheep materials may be unfair to an otherwise GREAT truck that is unrivaled by any other.
Do not forget that ALL vehicles have their weak spots. In my mind, a piece of junk, would be far worse than somthing as simple as replacing the brake rotors/pads with quality components.
The solution is to get better aftermarket units. I know DC should have done this from the get go but alas, they chose not to. Therefore, we need to take the initiative and get better units.
Meanwhile, it does not hurt to write to DC to express your frustrations. That is what I did. True, they cannot "undo" what has beendone, but you might get some help that way.
2000 4.7.
I'm sure as an engineer, he will appreciate the fact that a plastic oil fill tube has no place on our Daks or any internal combustion engine for that matter.
It is a nature of the beast.
The 4.7LV8 hemi is just very efficent at removing it from the engine and depositing it in the filler neck. The cold-air blast from the radiator fan causes any evaperated water in the crankcase to condense in the filler neck. Wipe it out regularly and your engine will be fine.
Short drives certainly exaggarate the problem. You have to get the engine >HOT for at least an hour in order to boil off all of the crud and allow the PCV system to remove it.
Synthetic oil improves the situation too. It has less of a tendancy to emulsify with water. Also some folks have applied insulation to the oil-filler-neck which helps keeps the moisture from condensing.
As for BMW horror stories, I drive an '87 325es in the summer (never seen snow), manual 5-speed and it's been in the shop 3 times now, yes in it's life. Of course, I've replaced brakes and exhaust and shocks, those are wear items. The only MAJOR repairs I've had is a new clutch at 140k miles, a new alternator and a repair to the rear truck lock (Someone tried to break in, unsuccessfully) Like anything, even a Dakota, some are good and some are lemons, my BMW has been beyond perfection. Think I'm lucky enough to find a Dakota to match? Hmmmmmmm My 170k Toyota Tacoma was almost as good... maybe I shouldn't tempt fate, I'm in line for a lemon!
Bookitty
The End.
Robert
Since I've always had a pet theory that the compact truck class gets short shrift in terms of material and engineering quality because of a preference for low costs in such a price sensitive segment(remember, a $30,000 loaded Dakota is essentially the same platform as a $15,000 model), I may play it "safe" and go with their full size model.
Drove my brother's '98 Ram with 60,000 miles on it today. He says he thinks the transmission is slipping a lot lately and about to go out. The bad thing is that it was completely rebuilt only a year or so ago already. I've owned 5 toyotas and never had a single transmission problem in hundreds of thousands of miles, many of which were heavy duty use. I can only go with what information is available.
expect more bull crap from the rep. Most people do not have time to fight for a warranty. I will do my best to keep someone from buying a Dodge. Please don't tell me its my fault or I should chill and give them a chance. My attitude is because of the poor quality of dodge and them not knowing or willing to fix it. In my 30 years of owning and driving I have never gone through this much crap and been taken for so much money. Way to much trouble. I do know there are some good one's out there but not many and I'm wondering if some of the good one's are coming from owners who have never had a quality truck, like Nissan or toyota. I do want to think all the people on this site for the help and advice I have gotten here. You know if the rep says fix my truck, I bet its with the same crapy parts. I will request after market parts mainly on the brake system. I have been printing out the problems on brakes and other things on this site so if anyone wants to post someting on here before the 1st of march, Iwill print it out and give it to the rep I am seeing. I want them to know that I am not the only one having problems and that I know this. Recall Recall Recall.
I've had my Dakota since Oct 30, 2000. The brakes are fine, 12k miles. No sign whatsoever of rotor warpage. The pads looked fine at the October inspection. I had a noisy vacuum hose in the engine at one point, but the dealer replaced that and all is well. No other real troubles at all. Perhaps my experience is not typical, I don't know.
If you are complaining solely about the brakes I would have to say bite the bullet and put the required aftermarket parts on to fix your problem. It seems to have made many of the folks here happy that were having problems. Perhaps not the fix you are looking for after spending the amount of money you have, but look at the loss you would take if you sell the truck when you could have cured the problems with it.
What are the other problems that you are having that are so bad?
So, now I plan to get rid of it. I was considering a Dakota until reading of all the problems. Now I am looking at a Mazda B4000 - I don't read of many problems reported with them.
Personallly I will NEVER own a FORD (and that means MAZDA too.)
In truth, I would like to hear your agument why you would NEVER own a FORD.
As many wise folks here have said, every manufacturer makes their share of junk, even DODGE.
The only reason I broke and bought a dodge this time around is because they were the only manufacturer that had the configuration I wanted in a vehicle. Next time Chevy might make the one I need.
Brand loyalty is over rated.
I am not 'loyal' to any specific brand... I am certainly biased againsed some brands for specific reasons.
There are many reasons I will not own a ford. One of which is their marketing tactics. When it comes to Toyota... They pay a certain political activist monie$ to look upon them favorably.
For example... Ford claims that the F150 has been the #1 selling truck for 15 years or so. This is because they add in virtually ALL rental vehicles, fleet purchases, and anyting else that makes the numbers look good.
If GM would add up all Chevy and GMC trucks (including renatls and fleets) Their number would FAR exceed the Ford claims... (I applaud GM for not lowering themselves to Fords tricks.)
Besides... I like to be DIFFERENT and will often stay away from what everone else is doing.
I bought my Dakota because it was the ONLY choice with a V8 in a small(er) truck. I also live in Vermont where DC vehicles tend to shun off the rust caused by the copious use of roadsalt. (Chevies and most asian vehicles RUST quickly.) Also, A US-named vehicle usually has cheaper parts when it comes time to replace things such as brakes or airfilters.
I realized that I may be sacrificing some 'reliability' when I went with a US-named vehicle... but that was my personall priority. (There is no longer such a thing as a US-made vehicle.)
The other 2 vehicles in my driveway are Hondas. One has over 204,000 miles on it and the other is only around 156,000 miles. The service at the Honda dealership is FAR FAR superiour that what my Dakota dealer can even imagine. It is not cheap... but I am treated like royality each time I call or show up at the Honda dealership. Even the salesman that sold me my 1991 4WD Honda Civic still makes it a point to say "HI" when he sees me. (Too bad our Hondas are starting to rust out... Honda no longer makes the 4WD civic and my wife LOVES that car.)
Saturn makes PLASTIC cars that will NEVER rust. I am hoping their new 4WD wagon will satisfy my wife to relace her 4WD civic.
All vehicles have their quirks, some more than others. On the whole, I used to have terrific satisfaction from Chrysler products. Then, beancounters and cost cutting reared its ugly head and no longer does DC make a vehicle which can measure up to past examples of reliability.
For instance, its a well known fact that Dakota brakes leave much to be desired in terms of durability. (just check other Dak sites on this specific issue) I have heard one argument after another about "well, all vehicles these days go thru rotors...." Its as if we're all supposed to buy that half bakes horse manure arguement and trudge off to Midas or Munro and spend $600 for a 30K brake job.
Sorry, I have a slightly higher level of intelligence than that. What happened to the days when you replaced just the pads or shoes and never the rotor or the drum unless you ignored the squeals and let the shoes eat the drum/rotor? I suppose that's a thing of the past.
I feel it's an attempt on the part of dealers/service managers to lower the customers expectations so when we show up for service and get presented with a huge bill, we're supposed to accept that and go on.
The point is, DC made some errors in judegement or cost decisions and unfortunately it has clouded my enthusiaism I once had driving my truck.
What disappoints me greatly is my prior Chrysler products performed admirably, often under extremely stretched maintenance intervals (anyone remember their college days and the lack of cash to spruce up your ride? I sure do!)
Now here is my dak that has never had to:
1. Haul loads like other trucks have.
2. Never to towed a boat, trailer, camper etc.
In other words, I have asked only that the brakes slow down the truck plus my 200+ body.
Not too much to ask is it?
And yet 4 sets of rotors and drums and I have yet to hit 30K......somethings rotten out there....... and its not in Denmark!
I stand firmly behind my previous comment in that if I had it to do all over again, knowing what I now know, I would NOT buy a Dakota. Best thing I can say is 2 1/2 years more payments and I will have the title free and clear. Not too sure what I will buy next, maybe my old Dodge Dart with its quirky slant 6 and carter BBS carb or find a Cordoba with a 400 4bbl and t-tops (like my old one) or maybe just settle for a slightly used Dodge Spirit, a wonderful if unrefined car.
Lot's of griping here, but for what it's worth, I'm on my second Dakota (first one had a 318, second one has the 4.7L). Here's what I can tell you about each:
Dakota #1 was a 1995 and I put 136k miles on it before sellign it. The ONLY thing I had to do outside or nomal maintenance (oil changes, tires, etc) was a radiator at 130k miles. Salt got to it. I replaced the pads and shoes once and it still had the original drums and rotors. It was an outstanding truck. The only gripe I had was that it still had the 1980s vintage type interior so it didn't look or feel very high quality.
Dakota #2 is 2000 (currently has 9k miles). I had one problem with it. The left front shock came loose and the dealer fixed it on the spot when I rolled in. As far as the brakes go, so far so good and they stop better than most sedans I've been in save the BMW 325i I just test drove (still drooling over that one, but it's not a truck :-) ).
Anyway, if brakes are the only issue, I agree with whoever said to suck it up and just fix 'em. If that's the only problem you ever have be thankful becasue all of them have their good points and bad.
As for Honda, I have a 92 Accord in the driveway as well with 138k miles. Great car. Had to replace the timing belt (normal), CV boots (sometimes normal), and a wheel bearing (not normal). That's it to date, but my first Dakota actually had fewer woes. Also, for those of you who may remember, Hondas had notorious issues with eating rortors from about 1991 until 1996.
Here's the key, this really isn't a major problem. Yes, we pay good money for vehicles and they should be right the first time, but sometimes they're not and as long as it's not serious stuff I can live with it. I don't like squeeks and rattles either so thanfully the 2000 Dakota doesn't have that.
I have no idea where these prices for brake jobs are coming from. If that's what people want to charge then pull out the wrenches youself. My God don't be such wimps! Excellent quality rotors can be had for $35 - $50 ea and a high quality pad set can be had for about $30. This and an hour of your time and the problem is gone. The gripers have probably spent more time than that hollerin' about it in this forum! :-)
Lastly, on the good side of the ledger, I've been greatly surprised at how well my 2000 Dakota Sport handles. For a truck it is absolutely outstanding and when compared to most cars, it's at least "good" if not "pretty good". It goes around corners better than my Accord and better than most anything else I've looked at in the car lines except a 'Stang and of course the high end sports sedans. In fact, the steering is weighted a lot like a sports sedan and I love it! Yeah, I plan to keep my truck, but I'm also looking for a nice sedan to go with it. I'm a MOPAR guy and have been one for a long time (even back when they were horrible cars in the late 70s and 80s!). Only problem is they don't have anything that turns my crank right now. I'm looking for horsepower, rear wheel drive, and a 5 spd manual. Chrysler/Dodge only has one of the three. I'd take 2 of three if they had it. So, I've been off in BMW land. I'm hoping to see a Hemi powered 300 with a manual trans in the next several years. If they make it I'll be in line to get one. Until then, I plan to enjoy my Dakota.
Cheers
These types of things, along with the 'xxx of the year' awards from every magazine out there, should be taken with a grain of salt anyway.
Not very good reasons to NEVER buy a vehicle from them, in my opinion...
As for counting fleet and rental "sales" to claim the "best selling truck in the world". My point is that they are comparing apples to oranges to make that claim. I realize that the idea is to "pull in" other folks that like to follow the crowd. I guess that is the VERY reason I am running the other way. (I do not like crowds)
I know several farmers that have tried F@rds over the years... they guzzled gas and wore out quickly. These farmers ALL ended up in the DODGE camp after trying all the other trucks out there.
I've owned my Dak for almost 8K miles so far in 2 months and while that's not a lot of time, so far I am extremely pleased with it. It has exhibited none of the problems that I have heard of yet, is quiet as a mouse as far as rattles/squeaks go, has more than enough power for a V6 for what I need, looks great, and on top of that, I got it for $500 under invoice at 0.0% financing with a 7 yr/100K warranty. To top it off, I've had it in the shop 3 or 4 times for routine maintenance and a little 'buzz' that came from the engine (turns out the oil dipstick was beating on the underside of the hood), and I have always gotten awesome service. I can't say that the truck will NEVER have problems, but my S10 had problems with the clutch and squeaks before 6K miles were out, and I've used my Dakota harder than I ever used any vehicle. I can't say I'm a Dodge loyalist, but I can say that I'll never refuse to purchase a vehicle from certain companies. After all, 10 years ago, if someone had said "Hey, in 10 years, Toyota will come out with an extremely popular full-size truck, and Hyundai cars will be selling like hotcakes because they are extremely reliable" I would have dropped dead with laughter.
If you have had your alignment done recently, take it back and have them double check the settings.
Hopefully this helps.
If your asking how they know there warped at the Dealer, they use a gauge to measure the runout.