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Thanks
Cybercool
When replacing the TCM, do I need to disconnect the neg battery terminal?
Any other specs I need to look into? I don't want a mechanic to over charge me just to replace this if I can do it myself.
Let me know
Thanks
Cybercool
PS: open the TCU, and check it out, before you just assume it's bad.
The seller had every single maintenance receipt dating back to 1998 and it's been well maintained. Looking through the records, there are four areas of concern:
1) Right front coil spring is cracked
2) Oil pan gasket leak
3) Transmission line leak
4) Rear seal leak
The owner stated that there are just a few drops of oil on the ground and they don't have to add any oil between oil changes (3K miles).
Are the leaks anything to be very concerned about? Since it's Sunday and I can't contact my mechanic, does anyone have an estimate of what it would cost to fix each of the issues?
Thanks,
Dave
I would assume we'd want to get the cracked front coil spring replaced first due to the safety aspect.
I can deal with a little bit of an oil leak for now. We just plan to drive it until April or May until we buy a minivan. I'm hoping to find something that we'll be able to drive until then and sell for close to what we paid.
PS: Be careful tightening the little nuts on the valve cover (they are only supposed to be torqed to 7 ft.lbs. If you try to tighten them too much, the little studs will snap off, and you have more parts to order, and replace.
I reset the TCU under the hood from the 7.5 fuse and it solved my problem for who knows how long, but it worked without spending $$$ on another TCU. The mechanic I went to had no idea what he was looking at and told me it's a tranny job, so I said see ya!!!!.
Elroy I know I may have to replace the TCU sooner or later and was wondering if replacing the ECU and TCU at the same time will resolve both problems of the low shifting and the engine light going on periodically? Or will a complete tune-up be the answer here where they'll replace the plugs, wires, oxygen sensor, belts,etc. I'm looking to spend as little $$$$ as possible
Please reply back
Thanks
cybercool
http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Codes.htm
The TCU problem could come back. Just be sure to check the computer out, before just assuming it's the problem. They will not let you return a TCU after you purchase one.
I got the code some time ago which is, #43 = fuel supply system. A friend told me it's definitely the oxygen sensor and I'm leaning toward replacing that. I'm 2years with my 93' Accord EX without any tune-up and I think it's due. What you think?
cybercool
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.asp
Regards,
Corkscrew
http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html
But, like I said before, you need to have some mechanical knowledge, and some testing equipment (in most cases).
this is while i am myself in the car,,but when i off the engine,,get out,lock the car via alarm,,,as the boiling noise starts,my alarm goes off...and i cant even unlck the car,using the alarm remote control at my car key..after some time, the alarm stops,,the boiling noise stops and everything is normal..
The next day,,i see that the water level at the spare plactic tank is reduced a bit,,and thats all,,
i went to a mechanic..he got my radiator changed,,the thermostat changed ,,the temperature switch replaced etc...but,,still i am experiencing the same problem,,
What am i to do,,...??
I am going nuts,,,
I know I need a wheel alignment because my car pulls to one side pretty bad. After getting an oil change my mechanic tells me rack & pinion work needs to be done. My question, can I still get a wheel alignment after buying new tires without the rack & pinion work done? Who can I trust besides God?
I feel my mechanic is pulling my chain.
Jim
To be most cost efficient, you should fix all the parts that need to get fixed, and then align the vehicle.
NO one . That's why, when it concerns yours, or your cars health (and a big bill), get a second opinion.
There is quite a bit of rust around the rear wheel well and into the quarter panel. The bumper cover retaining screws have rusted out so the bumper cover is a little loose near the wheel. Does anybody have a quick, easy and cheap repair for that issue? I'm thinking of just using Automotive Goop or QuikSteel to keep the bumper cover from moving.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignitionswitch.html
Thanks
2. Raise the front of car and support on safety stands in the proper locations.
3. Remove the front wheels.
4. Remove the steering joint cover.
5. Remove the steering joint bolts, and move the joint toward the column.
6. NOTE: Lock the steering shaft with ignition key to keep the steering shaft in position.
7. Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut and remove the nut.
8. Install the 12 mm hex nut on the ball joint. Be sure that the 12 mm hex nut is flush with the ball joint pin end, or the threaded section of the ball joint pin might be damaged by the ball joint remover.
NOTE: Remove the ball joint using the Ball Joint Remover, 28 mm (07MAC-SL00200l or equivalent.
9. Separate the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle using the special tool.
10. Remove the gearbox shield.
11. Using solvent and a brush, wash any oil and dirt off the valve body unit, its lines, and that end of the gearbox, blow them dry with compressed air.
12. Using flare nut wrenches, disconnect the four lines from the control unit.
A: From pump: 14 mm wrench
B: To oil cooler: 12 mm wrench
C: To reservoir: 17 mm wrench
To power steering speed sensor: 12 mm wrench
13. Disconnect the 4P connector from the heated oxygen sensor. (EX, SE only)
14. Remove the exhaust pipe A bracket nuts.
15. Remove the self-locking nuts that connect the exhaust pipe A to the three way catalytic converter, and the exhaust pipe A to the exhaust manifold.
16. Remove the exhaust pipe A.
CAUTION: Replace the exhaust gasket and self-locking nuts when you reinstall the pipe.
17. Remove the steering gearbox mounting bolts and holder.
18. Remove the left tie-rod end, then slide the tie rod all the way to the right side.
19. Slide the gearbox right so that the left tie rod clears the bottom of the rear beam, then remove the gearbox assembly.
CAUTION: Be careful not to bend or damage the four power steering lines when removing the gearbox assembly.
To answer your question, though, If your belt hasn't been replaced in 132k miles, you are operating on borrowed time. If you intend to keep this car for any length of time, investing in a timing belt would be money well-spent. Otherwise, when the belt snaps, you'll likely be looking at thousands in repairs, effectively "totaling" your car. It is very necessary replacement.
When you have this replaced, have the water pump replaced as well, since to get to it you have to do the same labor required of the timing belt (which is a few hours total), so it is simply cost-effective to have this done too. My mechanic who recently replaced my timing belt quoted me $400 for just the timing belt, and told me he'd do the water pump for just the cost of the part, since there was really no extra labor involved if done at the same time. My total for the two was $478+tax, and I'm in central Alabama. Dealers will quote over $700 most likely, but you should be able to get this done for less than $550 or so.
Has anyone here have their ABS system checked and/or repaired on a 93 Accord EX? My ABS light goes on instantly now when car is turned on. A few months ago, it'll turn on about 5 min into driving. I'm thinking a brake job may solve it or it can be more complex. I dont want to spend too much, especially with our economy now.
please give your input
thanks
Jim
I'd like your input on this. I paid $2500 for my 93 Accord EX 2 years ago. It was in very good condition. Within the 2 years I replaced the the radiator, fuel pump, steering pressure hose ($750 value). Now the ABS light goes on and check engine light. I know it needs a brake but dont want to spend any more $$$ on my car. THe left power window gets a little stick when going down. I'm thinking of asking for $2200, is this a fair price to a potential buyer? Thanks for your help
Jim
If for example the engine had not run for an extended period, the seals could have dried out, causing the leaks. Sounds good to me, anyway.
Good Luck
My odometer gauge hasn't worked since I bought a used 93 Accord EX two years ago. It stopped at 137,000. The CEL goes on periodically, but runs well and there is no major leaks. I know it needs a tune up and regular maintenance but how long can my engine last with a bad odometer gauge? I've been told the older Accords are reliable cars. Thanks for your input.
Cybercool
After buying a new radiator a year ago, I had the hoses, thermistat and antifreeze replaced as well. I don't see the green fluid to level like before and there is no leak. Is this normal? Should the level be at the height of the cap at all times? My Accord EX doesn't over-heat. Thanks for your input.
Cybercool
I had the plugs and disp cap replaced, she started and ran smooth on the way home from the garage. later that night I had to fight to get it started, she was idling at what seemed like 0 - 200 rpm and the engine was bucking. after 10 mins it was purring again. So the next day theres no spark and she won't start.
would anyone know what parts could be causing this problem?
I really hope its not the timing belt!!
Mike
Thanks jazzchaz