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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ken734ken734 Member Posts: 2
    Thks very much for the help. Have not had a chance to check this out, but it is something to look at. Thks again
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    edited June 2010
    Hey all,
    Just wondering if anyone could tell me the specs for an oil pressure test? I know I need to hook up a gauge to the oil pressure sensor hole, but I cant find the specs anywhere (like: xx psi at xx rpms). Or if someones got any ideas what is going on with my oil light. It comes on at idle and only after its warmed up. We just changed the pressure sensor, and nothing. Just recently changed the oil and filter (due to this problem) and ran a cleaner through it and the light didn't come on while idling (we put in 10w-30, if it helps). But as soon as the oil change was done, it started up again. If anyones got any ideas, or maybe a website, I would greatly appreciate it!
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    This is only a guess, but the screen on the oil pump pick-up may be clogging up. When you stop the engine, some of the goop falls back into the pan, so the screen is not as clogged up when you start it. But the longer the engine runs, the more sludge gets sucked into the screen. At idle, the pump is not sucking hard enough to pull the oil through the clogging screen, but when the engine rpms go up, it can sometimes pull the oil through, and the light will go off. You would have to take the oil pan off, to clean the screen, which unfortunately means removing part of the exhaust piping. The bolts on the exhaust are usually VERY difficult to remove. A cutting torch is the easiest way, IMO. I have no idea what the oil pressure should be, sorry. Good luck with it.
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Thanks for your advice, but I just took the oil pan off recently, and it was very clean.
  • carlisle5carlisle5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Accord EX Sedan- for the past 3 weeks, it has been going dead, whether riding on idle @ the light. No check engine light come on, the A/c will condition to put out, the radio will play and the hazard lights will turn on, it take 3-5 attempts to crank. Seems as though w/ more electrical items, such as A/C, Navigational device and radio, going @ once, this help the car to die. I called the local Honda service department but he stated that if the problem can't be duplicated then, they will not be able to repair the car. I have taken it to the local Auto Zone and when place on the machine, it does not give a code. I have had a frayed battery cable replaced, thinking that would repair the problem but no. I hate to trade the car but safety first, it has been great the past 10 years, I have not spent close to $1000.00 in repairs ( excluding tune-ups). Has anyone else had this problem and what did you ascertain to be the problem?
    Thank in advance
  • scootter1scootter1 Member Posts: 23
    Hey All,
    My sons Accord is leaking water somewhere on the drivers side of the engine. I am not familiar with the water pumps on these cars. I followed the tube behind the engine where it hooks back up by the timing cover. I assume they have the pumped tucked behind there somewhere?? Of coarse it wouldn't leak when I was looking at it.
    I saw an earlier post that said its about 5 hours with the a/c unit. I did my daughter timing belt about 8 years ago and that was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]. I can't remember if I did the pump along with the belt but I must have. So does the front engine cover along with everything else have to come off to get to the pump???
    Thanks Scott
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    I personally would try a radiator stop leak product first before you go through all the trouble of taking off the water pump.
  • keyon19keyon19 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1993 honda accord se with a 1992 accord ex 2.2 f22 a6 swap. The problem is sometimes when i try to start it on a cold start it takes about 3 tries to start then when it starts it idles rough or sputters until it reaches 1500rpms. Also it kicks a cloud of white smoke on start up... Any ideas and the main relay is already been tested, fuel injectors changed im thinking it could be my intake mantifold......anything else
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Stop leak may indeed stop a small hose or radiator leak.

    Stop leak is ineffective against water pump leaks----so if the stop leak stops the problem, you know at least it wasn't the water pump.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    edited June 2010
    carlisle5,
    Read this link, scroll up to the section on starting running problems. It may at least give you some ideas. I think it may be your ignition switch, but don't just take my word for it. There may be a recall on the ignition switch, so you might want to check on that too. Good luck

    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#transmission
  • greenweeniegreenweenie Member Posts: 2
    my car has 272,000 miles and does not have the original trannny, it has started not shifting correctly and now the green "sport" light is on. dumb question, but do you think the tranny is going out?
  • scootter1scootter1 Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for the replies. If it is the water pump, where the heck is the weep hole?
    Scott
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it even has one, it'd be on the underside of course, just behind the pulley.
  • greenweeniegreenweenie Member Posts: 2
    Scratch my post, no one repled anyway. I disconnected the battery and the light went off, the car is shifting just fine.
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Member Posts: 24
    To get a visual on the weep hole, take off the lower timing cover. You will need to crawl underneath the Accord, and use a flashlight.
  • scootter1scootter1 Member Posts: 23
    Thanks for the reply! That makes sense unlike the rest of this mess.
    I might have to get the car and drive it myself unless this might make sense to you. Car loose's water. He said it was on the drivers side somewhere. Okay, probably water pump. Now he gets to work to days in a row and says steam is coming out of the coolant tank but the temp gauge is still in the middle!! So I go over and start the car. No bubbles in the radiator, or water in the oil or oil in the water like a cracked head. Fans come on when the car gets to middle temp and it looks like water is flowing through the radiator. So I am thinking that possibly the thermostat could be intermitently getting stuck also?????
    Scott
  • lizz1234lizz1234 Member Posts: 13
    when i start up my 1990 accord, i have to let it warm up for several minutes. even in the summer. if i don't, when i come to my first complete stop after hitting about 25-30mph my car shuts off. when it shuts off the battery & oil lights are lit up. i've replaced the o2 sensor. any ideas?
  • dave299dave299 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 accord ex 5 speed. Over the past year I have had problems with the car starting. It is usually when I am already fixing something else. The problem is always the same: no spark coming out of the coil and no fuel because there is no signal to the fuel pump. By messing around with the wires at the distributor and the fuel pump it usually starts, but I really dont know if I did something or it just decided to start by itself. Sometimes I just get frustated and leave it alone and it will decide to start a day later and work fine till I have to fix it again and start with the problems all over. I changed the coil and ignition control module to no avail. I could just keep on changing things till its fixed but that would cost more than the cars worth. Anybody know what the problem might be?
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Member Posts: 36
    Try testing/checking your main relay.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    ALL ABOUT HONDA MAIN RELAYS
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Member Posts: 254
    edited June 2010
    More main relay info: http://techauto.awardspace.com/index.html#overview.
    Corkscrew
  • klov46klov46 Member Posts: 3
    I have a problem with my 93 accord. When i start it it says that its in park and drive at the same time. i shift it to drive and the parking goes away. why does it say park and drive when i start it??
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    If the D4 light stays on constantly, even when the shift lever is in Park, you probably have a transmission computer problem (very common on 4th gen Accords). To be sure, you can open it up, and look for dark spots on the circuit board (the capacitors have leaked on it). It can be fixed by someone who knows how, but you might have to find a replacement. Good luck finding one that's still good, and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
  • klov46klov46 Member Posts: 3
    Where would be the best place to repair the TCM??
  • petervegas2012petervegas2012 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, My 91 Accord wagon, with automatic transmission, does not shift into 4th gear. I had a friend look at it and was not sure it was happening until I got on the highway going at 50-60 mph and shifted it back to D3. Nothing happened so I realized that it was only shifting into 3rd and not 4th at all. Is this common? Is this a TCM problem or indicative of the tranny going out? Can a computer be plugged into this model to see if that would indicate the problem?

    Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    edited July 2010
    Your 91 Accord is not OBDII, so it will not hook up to a scanner. It will, however blink a code, using the D4 light in the dash. Is your D4 light blinking, or lit even when the shift lever is in Park? If the D4 light is on or blinking, there should be a code stored in the computer. It will at least give you a place to start checking. Here is a link, that may help you retrieve the code, and maybe even find where the problem is. Have you checked the fluid? Good luck ...................Link below

    http://www.techautorepairs.com/transmission.html#troubleshooting
  • 94shadow94shadow Member Posts: 31
    Hi,
    Is their are difference with oxygen sensors? If their is, what is the difference.
    I have a 92 accord 2.2L, FI, headers, downpipes, aftermarket catalytic converter, aftermarket resonator and a flowmaster muffler. When driving for 20 minutes, the CEL comes on and stays on. When I turn my engine off and restart it in about 15 minutes, the CEL stays off, then when I go for about 20 minutes, the light comes back on.
    The car runs good with or without CEL so I was wondering if there were any differences with the 02 sensors. I just have to find out what is wrong, if anything is wrong.
    I hope this makes sense.
    Thanks,
    94shadow

    By the way how many 02 sensors does a 92 accord have.
  • keyon19keyon19 Member Posts: 11
    I have a 1993 honda accord ex with 221000 miles on it, runs great but the only problem im having with it is a noise from the engine. When i start to drive down the highway before it shift to 2nd i will hear a rattling or knocking noise at high rpm, I dont know what it is but someone told me it could be valve springs but if I just sit in park and rev the engine it sounds like an knock around 2500 to 3000 rpm other than that its a great cat oil very clean and at proper level I dont know what to look for can someone PLEASE HELP!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    When's the last time you had the valves adjusted?
  • keyon19keyon19 Member Posts: 11
    I don't know I just got the car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might run this noise by a mechanic and if it is valve lifter noise, by all means get the valves adjusted.
  • johnson18johnson18 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 93 accord se that has the light on over the d4 and i have a 90 accord ex that is wrecked will the tcm work out of it in the 93?
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    The 90 Accord has the "Sport shift", and the 93 doesn't. That's the only difference I know of. The plugs (on the computer) may be the same, maybe not. I would guess the computer would work, but that's only a guess, sorry.
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    edited August 2010
    I don't think a 90 TCM can be interchanges with a 93 TCM. You really need to have the same part number to be somewhat sure. The 93 is similar to the 92, but quite a bit different from the 90/91 cars. "Some" of the correct part numbers are:

    The LX had a 125hp engine (F22A1) and the EX had a 140hp engine (F22A4)

    The factory TCU's on these cars were:
    93LX - 28100-PX4-722
    93EX - 28100-PX4-732

    92LX - 28100-PX4-722 (same as 93LX)
    92EX - 28100-PX4-731 (Oki) or 27100-PX4-732 (same as 93EX)

    91LX - 28100-PX0-823 (for whatever reason, this TCU costs twice the price of all the others's from the dealer!)
    91EX - 28100-PXO-833
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    My TCM is shot as well. I was told that 93 Hondas has lots of TCM issues. I found used ones online for under $200. How can I be assured it wont go bad again? I want my Honda to shift into gears normally. Please help, Thanks
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    The TCM issue with these cars (91-93) is that the TCM's (and the cars) are old but many are still on the road. The TCM has 5 capacitors inside it and these will leak and fail. If you take the cover off your TCM, look and see if there's dark colored goo or burned resistors on the circuit board - if there is, then you have the "usual" problem.

    Before I bought another old one for $200, I would find out if it's been "recapped". If it hasn't, then it could fail tomorrow. A better option (in my opinion) would be to take the TCM out of your car and send it to one of the companies that will install new capacitors and resistors. You "could" recap one yourself, but that's not the easiest thing to do and the soldering can be a pain.

    For a used, non-recapped, TCM I wouldn't pay more than $50 since it's a total gamble
    Getting yours recapped should cost around $150
    A new one from Honda (not worth the expense) is $600-$900 depending on the model.
  • elroy5elroy5 Member Posts: 3,735
    Yes, the computers can be repaired. I paid $500 for a new one for my 92 Accord, but it was only 6 years old at the time. It was practically the only problem I had with the car in the 12 years I owned it. I have no idea where you could bring the computer to be repaired, but it sounds like the best way to deal with it. Good luck
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    Thanks guys.
    I saw one TCM on ebay for $140 with lifetime warranty with free shipping.
    Gonna try them out.
  • lizz1234lizz1234 Member Posts: 13
    i have a 1990 honda accord EX, and lately it's been giving me problems with telling me how much fuel i have. it'll say i have a 1/4 tank, but won't start unless i get more fuel in the tank first. i never get a light that comes on or a warning, it just won't start. this has left me stranded multiple times. any ideas?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    For starters, fill up before you hit the quarter-tank mark. Beyond that - I'm no mechanic, but there are lots of useful people on this site who WILL help! If it makes you feel better, my '96 with 212k miles takes about twice as long to start when under 1/4 tank. I just treat my 1/4 line as my E line, and make sure to fill up by then; I still get a good 300 miles before I hit that.
  • gojacketsgojackets Member Posts: 23
    Don't let your tank get down to 1/4

    Sounds like a bad gas cap or one that's not tightened completely. Second guess is that your fuel filter needs replacing. Less fuel in the tank means lower vapor pressure in the fuel system (and I am an engineer, FWIW). A clue might be when you are gassing up - normally, you should hear a "hiss" when you open the cap on this car.
  • lizz1234lizz1234 Member Posts: 13
    would replacing the fuel pump help? and if so, should i get electric or mechanical?
  • guerillafishguerillafish Member Posts: 2
    I've got a 91 Accord EX 150k miles. I need new front brake pads and rotors and rear brake pads. The Meineke mechanic there's something special about the rotors from this period and most shops don't have to equipment to repair/replace them. Is this true? He wants $400 to do the job which seems like a lot especially since I was hoping not to spend more on this one while I save for another. Is what he said about the rotors true? How simple of a task is this for a novice?
  • klordklord Member Posts: 6
    That's true. I went through this last year. I spent over 550 to get new front rotors and pads. What makes it so expensive, they said, is that the rotors are "pressed" on (like with a machine press) and thus hard to remove/replace.

    Newer Hondas do not have this problem, the rotors are now held on by screws, I just redid all pads and rotors on my 01 accord and was able to do it myself for under 200.
  • guerillafishguerillafish Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info klord. Because of it, I was able to do some useful research!
  • worldecmworldecm Member Posts: 2
    edited September 2010
    One of the most miss understood things about the car computers I rebuild is. If you open the case and touch the board a tiny spark of static electricity could flow from your fingers to the circuit board and through the main processor and damage it. Once that happens you can throw the unit away. Thats why I don't ever advise a customer to open the case and look around. More times then not they will see something they want to touch and thats it they killed it.

    It's not a good idea to open the box for other reasons like what are you going to do anyways once you get inside it? The parts for these units are not sold at radio shack. The suppliers who deal with have a minimum order of $1,000 to buy components. The cost of getting a rebuilt unit is so reasonable when you take all the facts into account. Like what if a professional tech ruins the unit. Well that can happen and at that point we have to eat it. We also use special agents to strip the board from the enamel coating that seals the circuit board. After we are done working on the unit we seal it again with a acrylic coating to seal and protect the board. Once again most customers will not have or use these items so the job is not done right by this point alone.

    Any ECm or ECU, TCM, BCM etc unit 5 years or older needs to be rebuilt or it can just miss function and or die while your on the road and cause a accident or get you stuck some place. I hope this helps you all... :):)
  • cybercoolcybercool Member Posts: 117
    well I just blew my head gaskets and one mechanic gave me a $1000 is this a correct quote
  • titus_pullotitus_pullo Member Posts: 24
    It depends it was overheated and damage was done to the head. Get a detailed report from your mechanic and let us know.
  • astorastor Member Posts: 30
    Find a Honda mechanic who will do it for less. I got one of my independent Honda mechanics to do my 1990 EX for $180 (brake pads+machining the rotors), rotors have to be machined while on the car. If you need to find a good independent Honda mechanic go to cartalk.com mechanic files. I've found quite a number of great independent Honda mechanics there.
  • kat89kat89 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    1993 Honda Accord Automatic
    A while ago I was grocery shopping and when I finished my car wouldn't start. I had someone give me a jump start but it did nothing. I had it brought to the mechanic, they replaced some old spark plugs and it ran fine... for about 30 minutes. It started shaking every few minutes and especially at red lights and then died on me again on my way to work. I brought it back to the mechanic and they replaced some old wires and it ran fine... for another 30 minutes. This time it wasn't shaking, but it kept stalling more and more frequently every few minutes until it was stalling every 30 seconds. My boyfriend got it home and it's been sitting uninsured for a while. My boyfriend took a look at it a few weeks ago and duct taped the air intake tube and the box so it was sealed better and it ran ok while I test drove it around the parkade for a bit, but when at idle the car got quieter and quieter like it was about to die but didn't. I just went down today to check on it and it would start again. I have no idea what is wrong with it and I can't keep spending so much money on it if the problem isn't going to get fixed. Does anyone have any ideas as to what the issue is?
    Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to make sure all of the information was there.
    Thanks!
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