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the are part of the shifting process and if they are not communicating with the computer then the computer goes into safe mode and the car starts off in fourth gear instead of first gear, those solenoids’ are on the front of the transmission both have two bottle looking heads, it could also caused from faulty speed sensors which is on the front right side of the transmission and the other is on the back side just follow all the wires that is on the transmission both speed sensors are easy assessable when you take off the front RH wheel and remove the plastic guard, but before you do all this the D4 light flashing or stays on means there is a code set in the computer, to pull the code from the computer there is a blue plug behind the passenger kick panel (that plastic cover at the corner of the door bellow the glove box you need a small piece of wire to bridge the terminals, then switch on the key so the light in the instrument cluster comes on (do not start the car) watch the D4 light how many times it flashes long stroke means ten short stroke means one ( example: two long stroke and three short stroke means code 23) depends on how it flashes that is your code, after retrieving the code you can search online for Honda trouble codes were you will find the answer or if you have a service manual example: Hanes, Chilton and others) hope this helps.
Sounds more like a headlight relay
If you want to check the fuses, there are two boxes on the '90 - one is under the hood next to the firewall on the passenger side. The box is labeled on the top for the fuse locations. The other box would be next to the driver's left leg behind the panel.
Work safely.
Recently I noticed that my Honda wouldn't let me take the key out of the ignition and thought it was the break switch which had broke off...this has sense been repaired. So now I still have some issues with it getting stuck..but if I wiggle it some it will eventually click into Park and let me take key out.
Also the car seems to be shifting hard and the check engine light comes on at about 50 to 60 mph...it will then go out once the car is shut off and doesn't come back on until around 60 mph again....today the S light came on at the same time and was flashing. I replaced the TCU about 5 years ago....but when it went bad I couldn't get it to go into gear at all....the RPM's would rev up and I would be going down the road and it would change to a low gear...I haven't had those issues so far. When I shut the car off the S light didn't come back on again with the engine light?
I attempted to find the blue connector thing under the passenger side so that I could find out what the check engine code was but was not successful in find it.
While looking for that I noticed there is a wet floorboard on the passenger side found another issue....the windows have been fogging up more on the inside lately but the heat is still working. Would a leaking heater core be the issue and would that cause me issues with the TCU possibly?
Trying to figure out how much more money I should put in this old car .I have already did a good bit of front end work and it still needs tires balanced and struts
Thanks for any info you can give on these issues!
Visiting Host
I'm going to e-mail you a diagnostic flow chart for Code 43, to show you all the things you have to check. It might be a bit hard to read, so you'll have to blow it up on your computer screen.
I have Honda Accord 1993 automatic with 200k; it has idle surging problem when the car is getting hot, after about 20minuts it becomes normal, the temperature gauge is showing engine is very hot but the engine is not hot. I went to Honda dealer they charged me $1600 replaced idle control valve and to make extra coolant system diagnose , but did not stop and suggested me to change the cylinder gasket. Iam thinking is it worth of spending money on it asking for $1100!
Now I have another problem is the transmission, it takes very hard to change gear from second to third and forth, seems to be it takes more time than the normal to change the gear. I have added one qt fluid but no change. But car runs very good, never stopped on me.
Could you please suggest me what could be wrong in my car! Thanks in advance.
I presume you made a type and you meant that you were charged $160, not $1600 for an AIC valve?
Checking the cooling system was a good idea, since air blockage could cause false readings on the temp. gauge.
It's possible that the dealer can't deal with such an old car. Perhaps you need to take it to an independent japanese car repair shop and get a second opinion. These independent shops are used to working on older models---the dealer is not and probably his mechanics were 10 years old when these cars were built.
I was not satisfied and amazed that after spending $1600 they told me I need the head gasket replacement and the transmission; it is more than I bought the car.
The transmission, it is just taking extra time to change the gear from second to third or fourth according to the speed.
Thanks,
Goodluck!
Consumer Affairs office in your state.
Thank you.
Second thing I have noticed that the 'maintenance required' is red. I have the oil changed on it, I had pushed the little thing next to the maintenance required light to green but in a month or so it came back to red. I have asked around and the mechanics are not sure why it might be and they cannot hook up the machine to check what is wrong because my car is too old (93 accord). I tried to get the light back to green but it would not come back to green.
I am not sure if this is related to my original problem but just throwing out to you guys. Any ideas or if you need any more information, please let me know.
Thank you.
The Maintenance Reminder Indicator is a mechanical device which switches a colored tab from green to yellow, and later from yellow to red as the maintenance interval of 12,000km (7,500 miles) is approached and then reached.
OPERATION
The indicator is reset to the start of the maintenance interval by inserting the ignition key into the slot located on the front of the instrument cluster lens. When reset, the indicator's colored tab will return to green.
RE: TACHOMETER -- in that case, it sounds like a malfunction in the tachometer itself---I believe this is a part of the speedometer so maybe not much you can do about it at this point.
Any good repair shop should know how to read the trouble codes on an older OBD-I system.
Think Tiger can help me? :shades:
Maybe a different type of Honda engine, but this gets pricey.
The PGM-FI relay and terminals 4and5 He put in a switch between these two things relay and terminals and when the car will not start you can hit this switch(button)and it triggers the PGM to fire the fuel pump on which I guess is terminals 4and5. Starts every time. I posted earlier that I thought the cracked board was the fix he was looking for but I was wrong.
That board is in the 70.00 part he replaced so that's not the problem he said. It still revs up and down in park and the dash lights didn't come on but it starts now every time and runs super. He will figure out the rest I'll keep you posted. 1994 Honda Accord EX
The Check engine light comes on and stays lit on the dash, next when I try to jump the diagnostic connector in-order to pull trouble codes it has no effect on the Check engine light,
What I am experiencing is no gas or pump prime with no fuel at the injectors and no spark simultaneous, I have verified that the cam is turning but it seems like the computer is the culprit here.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Finally, went to the guy who is my current mechanic and he suggested replacing the rubber (probably synthetic) tube connections as they might be 'weaping'. He did. No problem since.
Not sure if this might apply in your case, but if the connection is something like rubber held on with something like a hose clamp, try replacing it.
Pretty cheap solution for me.
Tom C
If nothing works, you might try a compression test and see what's what in that 300K engine.
Low compression would exhibit the symptoms you describe. So might tight valves. Have they ever been adjusted?