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Comments
but yes, it is possible.
transmission seized (3 mechanics confirmed its lost) and since the
rest of the car is in excellent condition, I'm considering having a
shop replace it with a used transmission (which is cheaper than
getting a rebuilt one). I want the replacement transmission to last as
long as possible.
The owners manual recommends replacing the transmisson fluid every
90,000 miles.
Would changing and flushing the fluid more frequently help improve
transmission life?
How often would be best? Are there any differences in quality between
transmission fluids? Anything else I can do to help automatic
transmission longevity? Thanks
2.) Don't have your transmission fluid flushed. Drain, refill, drive a short distance. Repeat that three times. That'll effectively do the same thing, but without the threat of loosening up old particles and metal flakes that'll harm your engine, like a flush would.
All of that said; how much are you putting into this rebuilt transmission? With the car approaching 300k miles, it likely is worth less than the transmission you'd put into it. I have a '96 LX with 207,600 miles on it as of today, and love it, but if the transmission died tonight there is no way I'd put money into the car. I'd pony up a few more dollars and buy a lower mileage vehicle.
I would use Honda ATF-Z1, and change it more often than 90k miles. How many times to change it, and how often, depends on the condition of the fluid drained out. No "power flushes" on Honda automatics.
Just an opposing side to the same coin. I don't know what kind of money you're (the original poster) looking at for a transmission replacement. Care to share?
To buy a lower mileage Gen-5 accord would cost me $2000 minimium, plus
any repairs and maintenance it would require. And I don't know well the previous owner took care of it. I have taken excellent care of mine.
My current Gen-5 accord is in excellent condition, the interior is almost brand new inside. Plus I've replaced it has many new components such as a starter, alternator, radiator. I just want to maximize the life of the replacement transmission.
It seems that the consensus is to change the fluid every 20-25K.
What's wrong with doing a flush? Is it harmful? Is it helpful at all?
Thanks
Some people will not put more $$ into a car, if the insured value is less than what you would spend to fix it. If the car gets totalled in an accident, you lose money on the car. I have never totalled a car yet, and don't plan to, so I don't consider that a problem, and I'll take my chances that the car will not get totalled, before I get my money's worth out of it.
It would be great if someone can share it.
Any suggestions? thx.
jaiuto1@cfl.rr.com
http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
Thanks in advance for your insight.
Engine is 2.2L i4.
I have found that 9 times out of 10 if the check engine light comes on in a Honda it's a bad O2 censor. Nothing that needs to be fixed immediately. Your fuel will just burn with a higher O2 content and you'll get slightly less MPG until it's fixed.
2.2L
Fits: 1994 - 1997 Honda Accord
Tag ID: AOYA, BOYA, MPOA
Description: 4 Speed Automatic Transmission, FWD
2.2L
Fits: 1991 - 1993 Honda Accord
Tag ID: MPXA (JAPAN BUILT)
Description: 4 Speed Automatic Transmission, FWD
2.2L
Fits: 1990 Honda Accord
Tag ID: PX4B
Otherwise, you may need to go to onboard diagnostics.
Check/charge your battery for full charge.
Look for bad fuse, relay, fusible link.
Check wire connections, unplug/replug .
Spray wires and connecters with LPS ,WD 40 or similar fluid to remove moister/dampness.
Spray starter fluid into throttle body and try to start. If it hit/fires than the electrical is okay. Than must check fuel delivery.
Is the check engine light coming on?
Bleeder screw in or near the thermostat housing
Water will not circulate with air in the system.
I don't think you have power to the fuse circuits.
Check for power coming to the main under dash fuse panel. there is probably a 50 amp fuse there.
What documentation do you have?
http://manualspace.com/honda-accord-1994-1997-maintenance-service-manual.htm
Follow directions on web pages for free access and password for unzipping
OBD-2 did not start till 1996 so there is no connector behind the ashtray on the 94, only 96 and later.
I don't believe Air Team emission test facility know exactly what they are doing.
I believe they are going to have to do the OLD TAIL PIPE CHECK.
Call your local Honda place they will tell you how/where the test is done.
The 1994 is OBD-1 which means there is no real standard across vehicles.
To read trouble codes On the 94, the sc ( service connector) is not by the foot well or behind the ashtray, it is behing the glove box,, there is a 2 wire plug and a 3 wire plug ,,I think they are either green or blue ,,, you want to jump the 2 wire plug with a paper clip , put the key on and read the fashing codes on the instrument cluster.
Verify the type brake fluid required, any parts supply store will give you the correct type required.
The type is probably written on the Cap.
Fill to line on reservoir..
This link will show what it looks like.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Master-Cylind- - er-Cardone-Select_5350006-P_230_R%7CGRPBRHYAMS_958646452___
The Rotors on the 95 accord are pressed on or "captured rotors". I have seen it done outside of a shop a few times, but it is a pretty painful process and the new ones generally need to be pressed on as well, usually by a hydraulic press. I have very few complaints about the accords, but the pressed on front rotors are one of them. I usually pay my local import shop about $150 to replace the rotor and bearing at the same time.
It is a pretty big job,
The unit will need to be removed from the control arms and drive shaft,
The unit will need to come off the car
You will destroy the wheel bearing because it will separate when you push it from the housing.
Honda put the screws to us from 94 thru 97 on this job
Go here and download this Manual and read up.
http://manualspace.com/honda-accord-1994-1997-maintenance-service-manual.htm
Extract with password: manualspace.com
Reply for more info if needed.
The odometer stopped work about three weeks ago, and the Check Engine light was ON. While I was thinking to change the VSS, last Friday I think I saw a kind of smoke in the front when I turned off the car at a gas station. I was not quite sure where did the smoke came from. The first thought was dust from the ground since I did not smell anything inside the car. After filled the tank, I started the car and found all meters had no signal, and the Check Engine light was OFF. There was no problem to change the gear. I drove the car home and parked it in the garage. The next day, I found the gear shift was stuck in the Parking and not able to switch to R or D. There was no power window either (I am not sure if it was gone with the gauges at the same time or with the gear shift later.)
Now, to change the gear shift from P to R or D, I have to insert a key into the Shift Release hole after the car started. The car seems running fine on the road. However, there is no any signal from Temperature Gauge, Tachometer, Speedometer, Trip Meter, Fuel Gauge. Power Window, Clock, and Reverse Light when I shift to R stopped work as well. However, AC, turn signal lights, stop lights, head lights, high lights, Radio, and Cigarette Lighter still work fine. I checked the fuse under hood and dashboard on driver side, all of them are not burnt out.
Another thing, a few years (3-4 yrs) ago, the Odometer (only) stopped running for several weeks, and then kept working till recently.
What can cause the problem? What should I check?
Thanks
Scott