Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

blufz1 · June 2008

Change the cabin filter?

dmunshower · June 2008

I have notice a number of messages describing engine stalls at various speeds with no regard to weather conditions. I have a 98 V6 Accord. and I am experiencing this problem as explained by kbain in his message #1258. For me this started about 2 years ago at about 150,000 miles. I have taken it to the 2 seperate Honda dealers a total of 3 time but like the other bloggers the problem does not replicate for the dealer. I also had the ignition replace twice and that has had no effect on the problem. I had one service manager say it was hairline cracks in the fuel injectors that as the engine heats up these expand and cause the shutdown. I have a problem with this explanation, first if this was the cause and the car stalls and I then have to wait a minute or up to five minutes for the car to restart why wouldn't the car just stall again two miles down the road when the engine gets hot again. In my experience and I should mention that I drive 50 miles each way to work that with this problem of engine stalls it stalls once and thats it for the rest of the drive. Only rarely does it stall more than once a trip. I do notice the it stalls more frequently in the heat of the afternoon drive than the morning commute but it does happen sometimes in the morning.

I am no mechanic but I did notice an article (Edmunds Tech Center) Injector Perfection that seem to me that it could be a sensor problem.

I would like to know has anybody been able to solve their stalling problem. This is frustrating, time consuming and not to mention dangerous.

leppert · June 2008

Just purchased a 2000 Accord LX but it does not have the keyless entry system. Got a quote from Honda for $600 for installation with fobs. Any suggestions for getting it done cheaper? Thanks.

bimmer4me · June 2008

My 99 Accord with 59k runs fine and has been maintained accordingly. Twice in the last 2 months my car has just died out at a red light. The second time was yesterday. Put it in neutral and it started right up with no problem. If this continues, I'll have to have a mechanic look into it. What could be the cause? As others have experienced, my car probably won't replicate this symptom when I take it in for a diagnoses.

miss98accord · June 2008

I took my 98 Accord LX (4 cyl-auto) in to the dealership a few weeks ago to replace the window regulator motor (driver's side). When I got back in the car the check engine light was on. It was not on when I took it in. I was able to reset the light but recently it came back on after filling up with gas and won't turn back off. It blinks once when trying to reset it with the trip reset method. Should I hold the dealership responsible? I've read several places that the EGR valve could be the issue but I had both oxygen sensors and the catalytic converter replaced less than two years ago.

Also, how do you change the bulbs for the odometer/trip display and the clock? Someone told me the dash has to be removed. They have not worked since I bought the car and now the lights on the gear shift are out as well. Is that a bulb too?

Finally, it has a little over 200,000 miles on it. When I reach certain speeds it kind of hesitates and I have to accel for it to go into gear or let off the gas for a second or two. When it does this and goes into the next gear it kinda clunks which I have been told happens with the kind of miles that is on it. Could the hesitation and clunking be a sign that I should have the transmission flushed? I don't know what the previous owner did with it so it could be non-Honda fluid in there.

speedbump47 · June 2008

It could be the main relay switch. The main relay switch is known to have bad soldering inside and as the car goes through heating/cooling cycles, the joints get cracks in them causing sporadic connections. The main relay is what activates the fuel pump, so you'll get a crank, but no gas. It's a very common issue (happened on mine too). Solution is to either buy the $40 part for replacement (it's user replace-able under the driver side dash) or pulling it out, opening it up and re-soldering any bad joints. I did the latter option and haven't had any issues in a few years.

Bad Relay Info

blufz1 · June 2008

Changed my spark plugs for the first time at 90k. Couple of suggestions/observations. My plugs needed changing and the car runs smoother on start up and more responsively w/ the new plugs. I used the NGK platinum plugs just like the oem plugs so I will not have to change them again for awhile. I always use anti seize when I replace plugs. The rear most bank of plugs seemed to show slightly more discoloration and were harder to turn than the front bank plugs,so I suggest you check a rear bank plug to ascertain condition and tightness. I used a 10mm socket to remove a bracket to facilitate change out of the plug nearest the firewall,on the passenger side. Difficult to get the plug tube to clear as you remove it. Glad I checked/changed mine earlier than the 105k spec. I was quoted $171 for the plugs at the dealer parts counter. I paid $68 at Auto Zone for the very same plugs. Hope this helps.

srx2870 · June 2008

hi, i had a 2002 honda accord LX which run perfectly for almost a year, recently i found out the car slightly shaking/trembling when running on a perfectly flat surface road. Can any expert help me explain why this is happening? its something wrong with the tire or the suspension/shock absorber? Thank You very much

henry88 · June 2008

As I boosted my Accord which hadn't been driven for almost a year, I got the click sound the but the engine wouldn't start. The car was running fine the time I drove it. What should I look into for a car that's been sitting in the garage for about a year? Thanks in advance.

Henry

kiawah · July 2008

Charge/change the battery

henry88 · July 2008

Hi kiawah, the car that I boosted from got a new battery and it was running by the time I booted the Accord. Do you think I still need to get a new battery? Thanks.

nova · July 2008

Does the 01 have an A//C filter and can someone explain to me how to change it.
Thanks

thegraduate · July 2008

Yes, the Accord has had an A/C filter since the '98 model deubuted. It requires getting into and behind the glovebox, I believe - not terribly easy to get to - another owner can fill in the details, I'm just telling you what I know!

nova · July 2008

Thanks maybe some one on this sight has done it and can help me out

thegraduate · July 2008

You're in the right place - some people will log on later that aren't on here right now and see your post about changing the AC filter.

Some people can't hop on Edmunds at work!

kiawah · July 2008

The best way to determine, is to take your vehicle to an autoparts chain (pepboys, autozone, etc), where they have a device which will do an alterntator and battery load test. This is a free service. This will put both the alternator and battery under a resistive load, verifying that the alternator diodes are good and delivering both the voltage and current they are rated at, and that the battery is holding the charge correctly.

willis3 · July 2008

The filter you are referring to is the cabin filter.

This can be easily replaced, just follow the directions, which you can find here.

He has a link on the page to a Acrobat file that you download that shows pictures.

201w17 · July 2008

In May, we had pretty major work done on our accord (70K miles): new rear brake pads, new timing belt, new battery, new sway bar links and ball joints, oil change, fluid change, cabin filter - all by a honda dealer, hoping that would be it for a very long time. Recently, brake, battery, and door open lights came on, stayed on, and the car gradually died while on a trip. A local mechanic replaced the alternator. On the 500 mile drive home, the lights began to all come on again, but only when the rpm's hit 1000. Does anyone have any idea what we should expect when we take it back to the dealer for testing? Could their work have caused any of this?

brigits · July 2008

Hi. Did you ever find out what the stalling problem was on your Honda? I am having the same problem with a 2002 V6 and have about 150K miles. It only happens sporatically but it's happened 3 times now. I have it in to be checked today and they were suggesting it could be my exhaust system needed to be cleaned.

ams5 · July 2008

I have an 2002 Honda Accord V6. A little bit more than 70,000 miles. I went to Honda dealer service this morning. I told the advisor there that when I press the brake, the sterling wheel shakes. He called and said it is because the brakes are worn out. It is impossible. I had the brake replaced (front - last year and rear - two years ago) by Midas. He said they are not Honda brakes and are not good. But still. They should last longer than 5 years, at least! He said there are only 4 mm left for the front and 5 mm left for the rear. How can the front brakes wear off faster than the rear brakes? Does anyone know anything about brake? How far can I drive with those brakes (in distance and in month)?

elroy5 · July 2008

How quickly your brake pads wear, depends a lot on how much you use them. Someone who drives mostly on the highway (not much brake use) can go a long time with the same pads. If your steering wheel shakes when you apply the brakes, you could have warped rotors (which would be an even larger expense :sick: ). Unless you can check the brakes yourself, I guess you have to take his word for it, or get a second opinion (from somewhere other than Midas

).

canddmeyer · July 2008

You could ride the brakes until they squeal, but since you have a shimmy, you shouldn't wait any longer as the rotors need to be turned, or possibly replaced. The shimmy will also put unnecessary wear and tear on other parts of the car.

I don't know what Midas uses for brake pads, but let's just say there is the good stuff and there is the better stuff. The front brakes will usually wear out faster because most of the weight is on the front end of the car, especially under braking. Midas probably has a lifetime warranty on the pads, but you'll basically be paying Midas for another brake job minus the cost of the pads if you return there to cash in on your warranty.

Your choice, but I'd have the dealer or a shop specializing in Honda's take care of this if it was me.

jazzchaz · July 2008

i have a pre-owned 2000 Accord SE/V6 with 79k, and am suddenly hearing a whine at start-up....is this possibly related to the timing belt, or is it the beginnings of alternator or power steering pump problems?....thank you

thegraduate · July 2008

I wouldn't suspect the timing belt with a whine, but the alternator would be suspect. I wouldn't act on what I say though - I'm not a mechanic, just know what I've heard and seen, and a whine could indicate the alternator. Are you having any indicator lamps? Noticing flickering headlights/dash lights, especially when the engine is under load (A/C on, idling)?

jazzchaz · July 2008

....haven't seen any flickering as of yet...the whine sounds like a power steering pump, it's sustained, and the sound doesn't variate when i turn the steering wheel, and when i looked at the pump reservoir, the fluid appears to be fluctuating, like coolant flow looks like when you have the cap removed....then after about 5min. or so, the whine stops and all is well....purplexing

banuelosart · July 2008

To all,

The dash board light, door and trunk indicator lights stay on even when everything is closed. any clue what might be wrong 1992 honda accord.

kiawah · July 2008

Check for a bad door switch.

zoinks68 · July 2008

Hi there. I read your post on edmunds community about your car engine killing. I have the same problem with our 98 Accord, automatic, and was wondering if you ever found out what the issue was?
Please email to zoinks68@gmail.com if you have any information. We're trying to find a good mechanic and we don't want to GUESS as to what the problem is.... any information would be great! Thanks.

thegraduate · August 2008

Please respond HERE, not in an e-mail, so that all readers can have the info!

duane09 · August 2008

Hello everyone, I have a problem with my 98 Honda accord. The car will start up when it is cool but when I drive it for a while and turn it off. The car will not start back up until it has cooled down. What is causing that?

116549 · August 2008

Yeah, I had the exact same problem with my car, '01 with 69k. It was pretty easy, but I drove around without the clock plugged in for a while to my trip to get the bulb, and the blinkers didn't work because they are connected to the same circuit.

116549 · August 2008

Hey there,
I have an '01 Accord 4 cylinder with 69k miles. At regular idle the car runs pretty smoothly. However, with the A/C on or the headlights on, the car idle much more roughly, particularly with the A/C, where moderate vibrations are felt throughout. Now I know that both these processes put extra strain on the engine, thus causing more vibrations. However, my question is, if there is any way to reduce the load on the engine with the A/C or headlights on? My motor mounts (the two that I can see) do not look bad, and the engine does not seem to move too much. I have heard information about performance pulleys, but I am not sure. Any info would be appreciated.

twoobaron · August 2008

I have a 99 Honda accord 2.3 v-tech and I am looking for some serious help. First
off their is a very loud noise that is coming from the rear left side of the car - almost
like a exhaust problem. I looked at everything and the exhaust looks great. So I changed the rear wheel bearing and again nothing. Also the second problem is that the paint is starting to flake off. Is there a way Honda could help cover it or should I just bite the bullet and repaint the whole thing?
Thank you for your time if you would like to email me its twoobaron@aol.com

fbaxter · August 2008

Had similar problem with '98 Accord LX sedan, mileage was about 110,000.

Dealer found the transponder for the ignition interface as well as the chip in the ignition key to be defective. Made new keys (did not do the valet key) at half price and discounted the transponder. I did have the recall work done previously.

Hope this helps.

zoinks68 · August 2008

Thanks! We're taking the car in today to have it diagnosed. This information helps out a lot to determine where the problem lies. Seems like the ignition interface is a huge problem with this year and model.

jmendoza17 · August 2008

siteI have a 4-cylinder 1994 Accord DX with a 5-speed trans. When the engine is cold and I accelerate from a stop, the car very often lurches and heaves as if it is not getting fuel. After a few minutes of driving, the problem stops. Any idea what may be causing this.

alex24 · August 2008

Sounds like it is one of those air polution devices or sensors

jazzchaz · August 2008

...it's that IACV (idle air control valve), mine does it too; it stops after engine comes to temp. There's a pictorial cleaning procedure i've seen online, but haven't done it yet...most of the time, if you start and just let it warm up (it will high idle) without any accelerator movement, it will stabilize normally

alex24 · August 2008

Yes its one of those devices on your intake, I been told hitting it with a rubber hammer may help, or take it off and spray it with carb. cleaner, also spray inside the hole you took it off, and put it back on, this may work, it has help many others. Also Auto Zone has a computer and will test your car free and may be able to tell you which device is not working.

jmendoza17 · August 2008

Thank you for the info. Do you have link for cleaning pictorial?

elroy5 · August 2008

I haven't read through this link, but it does seem to have some good pictures. Check it out.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1844067&page=1

87tpimonte · August 2008

ok heres a challenge for someone to figure out.I have a 02 accord ex v-6 thats getting 288 miles for a tank of gas. I had new wheels and tires installed and an alignment. I ran it on a scanner and everything checks out no codes. it has had a tune up not long ago fuel filter change. The only thing thats been added to the car is a cold air intake with k-n filter. this car used to get 420 miles per tank.I am lost and dont were else to look so someone PLEASE HELP!!!!!

elroy5 · August 2008

When you say per "tank", how much are you pumping in when you refill? City/hwy miles?

87tpimonte · August 2008

filling up and city at 10 miles a day

blufz1 · August 2008

You would need to recalibrate the speedo/odo if your new tires and wheels are a larger effective diameter than the 15 inchers than came on the car.

87tpimonte · August 2008

it was doing it before i took off the factory wheels. I was hoping that swap the factory wheels because two of them were bent from the (wife) hint hint.

iwantone · August 2008

I haven't had any major problems with 2001 accord. Yesterday after leaving the gas station, my malfunction light came on. I am in between pay periods and I know dealership will charge nicely just to check this out. Can I drive car until around last week in August or does this require immediate attention ? The car seems to be driving the same. That light just bugs me too much.

elroy5 · August 2008

If the gas cap was not screwed back on right, that could be the cause of the light. My check engine light came on once, when the little plastic string that holds the cap got stuck under the cap, causing it not to seal correctly. The light may not go out immediately, but if the cap was the problem, it will go out.

thegraduate · August 2008

Exactly my thought, Elroy.

Iwantone,

If you want to, don't go to the dealer; get the check engine light analyzed for free at AutoZone if you want to make sure that is the problem.

iwantone · August 2008

Thanks I did go to autozone. Afterwards, I went to the honda dealership who said they don't trust anything that autozone says. I left dealership because they want to do diagnostic and then actually I don't have the cash to lay down on this when I plan to trade the car in about 6 months. 3 drives after I clicked the gas cap the light went off.

Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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