Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

jazzchaz

...thank you friends, i'll address these tips.....chaz

dharg1970

We have a 1999 Accord (97K miles) that cuts off while driving. The flashing "green key" and a blank lcd odometer display are the only indications on the dash. The radio still works. It is worse the past few weeks with the warmer weather. It may take 4 - 6 attempts to restart.

It happened in the summer/fall 2007 and I took it in to the dealer for a day; then an independent shop (for a week). They couldn't replicate the problem. We drove the car for over 1,000 miles during the winter months in Metro Atlanta, GA with few or no problems.

The ignition switch was replaced under the 2002 recall.

A garage I took it to this week said it was the ignition switch. They said their certainty was high. They also said it should go to Honda because they have to program something when they replace the ignition switch.

I spoke to an auto electric shop that someone recommended and he said it didn't sound like the ignition switch. I've read a lot of the forums and I'm frustrated.

We also have a Silencer Security System disabler on the car that was on the car when we bought it new from the dealer.

Thanks,

gaskins27

Just a disclaimer - I am NOT a car person! I wish I were, but sadly mechanics intimidate the crap out of me. Anyway...

My '98 Accord has been having some starter problems for the last few months, so we recently took it to a Honda specialist (local mechanic), who replaced the starter. However, when I picked it up, I discovered the following:

1) the left F/R windows will move from the driver's controls
2) the right F/R windows will NOT move from the driver's controls, but WILL move when using the switches on the right side doors
3) the power locks don't work, either from the remote, the lock switches (on either driver or front passenger door), or from manually locking the driver door (which would normally lock all doors simultaneously)

I've checked the fuses and they all seem to be ok. I doubt this is a problem that I could fix myself but I thought I'd ask around. Does it sound like this is something my mechanic broke, or perhaps just forgot to plug something back in, or what? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Abby

elroy5

Since the starter wires are nowhere near the door switch wires, I think something may have gone wrong when the battery was disconnected or reconnected before and after the starter change.

georgew1

Abby,

I believe this is your cure.........sounds crazy but give it a try and let me know.
With key off, turn window wiper speed control to about half way between quick and slow. Turn on wiper switch. Then turn the key to the accessory position and leave it for about 10 seconds. then turn off everything, NOW turn on the key and try the windows and locks. I bet they work.........
I can't find my paperwork on this and if it doesn't work, let me know and I'll try to find more on it.
Good luck,
George

georgew1

Abby,
I forgot to tell you.......turn on your window wiper stitch to "intermittent" BEFORE you set it midway between slow and fast. Then turn the ignition switch to "ACC" for several seconds. Everything off and then try your doors and windows.
That should do it.
George

ilovemyhonda

I've owned my 1998 4 cylinder Honda Accord for a bout 2 1/2 years, and since I got it, it has had this problem which no one can seem to solve. It started off by cutting off when driving my car after it had been sitting for a long period of time (like overnight). When I would push the accelerator the car would shake a little and just cut off (which has put me in some pretty dangerous situations). I found that if I felt the car shake I could prevent it from cutting off by giving it more gas (which works most of the time).

Of course it would never do this for the mechanic, because after driving to the mechanic (who is across town), it would have been running for a while, and the car never did this after it had been running for 15 min or more. I finally had to leave my car with my mechanic so that he could see this for himself. He was not exactly sure what it was, but he gave me a tune up, and it was better for about 4 months. Then it started again, after a trip to Bakersfield, which is an hour and a half each way, my maintenance-required light came on. I have taken it to 2 different mechanics that could not diagnose the problem. It has even been hooked up to the computer that reads the codes, but no code shows up. Also now when I start my car I have to immediately hit the gas or else it will cut off.

I work as a valet and have noticed that most of the Accords (that are the same body style as mine) have their maintenance lights on too. Is this a common problem amongst 1998-2002 Accords??? I really do not want to spend hundreds of dollars on something that might not work. Please help!!! :confuse:

mistry125

I'm getting some pretty high quotes for a timing belt, water pump and tension assembly replacement and wanted to see if this is in line with the current market rates. Also, I'm getting this done in Manhattan which will surely add an unnecessary premium, but I have no choice. Getting an average of $925 for the three parts including labor. Some additional work will be done such as cam seals and something with the crankshaft (?). Does this sound way out of line?

Also, my car just hit 100K and runs very well - EXCEPT - when I have to start the car multiple times within a short period (~ 3 times within 3 - 6 hours). No problem the first time, a bit of sputtering during idle on the 2nd time, and the third time, the car will turn over and rpm's will reach ~2000, then slowly sputter down to a stall. The only way I can manage to start the car is if I give gas for a minute or two before it stalls out. Any ideas?

thegraduate

The "Main't Req'd" light just indicates that it has not been reset in 7500 miles. You must (or the dealer should) reset the maintenance required indicator at oil changes. It illuminates when it is time for your next service; every 7500 miles. This is NOT the same thing as a check engine light, and explains why no codes show up.

mcola

I'm new and this is my first posting.
I have a 2000 Accord SE (2.3L) with 190,000 km (120,000 miles). There is an annoying clunking in the front end that is most heard at slower to average speeds over bumps. I've done the following over the last couple years and am getting fed up with the noise and the costs of changing things that don't correct the noise.

Struts - changed about 2 years ago - reused the springs and there are not cracked, and not sure if the top bushing/plate (or whatever it is) was changed.

Swaybar bushings and links were changed about 6 months ago (front and rear).

Passenger upper ball joint/control arm was changed about 3 months ago.

Front brakes were done about a year ago and are still good.

As far as checking play, etc. I can tell you I've had a few mechanics have a quick look at it while doing other work on it and they say the front end is fine. I think most check the front with the wheels hanging and they don't notice anything. I've gotten fed up and done my own checks and find the noise when the tires are on the ground. If I bang my fist at the top sidewall of the driver tire, I hear a definite clunky rattle. My guess is its the wheel bearing. But I'm not fully sure because when I raise the car and spin the wheels, it doesn't feel ratchety, and I only hear slight humming from the pads on the rotors. There is no grinding or humming when driving the car.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

elroy5

Sounds like ball joints to me. The have not worn out, so they will not show signs of looseness, but the grease is gone, so they will make the scrunching sound at slow speeds going over things like speed bumps. Honda really should have put grease zerks on the ball joints.

tj111

I have the same car.
This happen to me. To make a long story short, I changed the fuel regulator and problem went away. The fuel pressure was not high enough. (Weak regulator) Cost me 45$
Hope this helps

wolfkitty

MINSTRY125-
In Southern CA I just did my 105K reccommended maint for my V6 2002 Accord, it included timing belt, water pump, outside belts incl AC compressor belt and power steering belt, spark plugs, oil change w/filter, coolant replaced and including labor was quoted anywhere from $1200-$1300, upon review, they also recomm. replacing my leaking hydrolic tensioner and right motor mount (parts only), and the total was $1531.63.

upengan78

Hi

We last week did 120000 miles recommended maintenance on V6/ 2000 Accord SE 4 Dr in IL, Chicago and replaced timing belt/water pump as well. Our expenses are 1015$

thegraduate

We last week did 120000 miles recommended maintenance on V6/ 2000 Accord SE 4 Dr in IL, Chicago and replaced timing belt/water pump as well. Our expenses are 1015$

The Accord V6 did not come in an SE model until 2007. Is it a 4-cylinder?

I'm paying $427 for timing belt replacement, water pump replacement, and the antifreeze on my 1996 Accord LX 4-cyl Automatic. 180k miles. The other quote I got was $720.

mentiya

Hey, I could not take listening to that low rumbling sound coming from my car anymore, so on the way to the gym I stopped off at an automechanic shop and the guy rode with me and immediately said I think you have a bad wheel bearing on your rear passenger wheel. Oh, what a relief....this whole time I had been thinking the noise was coming from my CAT and it is quite obvious now as I am listening to it that it is from the wheel. I guess I was too focused on getting that catylitic converter replaced that I ruled out anything else. I am sure eventually I will need a new CAT, because that code P0420 did come up twice but the light hasn't come on again. So for now I am getting the wheel bearing hub replaced which is not that expensive. I feel blessed that this problem was quickly diagnosed and is being repaired as I type this:) Thank you again for all of your help as I do appreciate it. Oh, and I did have my car put up on a lift while I was at the shop and they showed me the underside. That was the first time I have seen underneath of my car and I thought it was pretty cool. It looked great! The guy showed me the CAT and the 02 sensor, which is mounted in the rear of the CAT. Very interesting. Thanks again, Heather:)

upengan78

EX V6 4 Speed Automatic :P

user777

wow, good to know you got what was truly needed fixed and in the process, learned something. i wish you happy and safe motoring. :shades:

tj111

To reset the maintenance light. Hold down on the odometer reset button on your panel and turn the ignition switch to on. Wait till you see the maintenance light go out. About 30 seconds

tomk17

I'm looking a 98 Accord EX (4 cyl) for my new driver daughter. I've had several Honda's including a 98 Odyssey and a 04 CRV. Both great cars with no problems. This Accord is an adult 1 owner car, great shape, and very well maintained with fresh tune-up. It does however have 175K miles. I will check the service records but the timing belt / water pump were obviously done and most likely many other items. I would be buying it thru a reputable wholesaler who I've worked with in the past - he knows the owner.

I'm sure there are some high mileage owners here and I'd appreciate any input on what I should expect from this car. It only needs to last another 18 mths and another 15-20K miles. Price will be $4000

elroy5

$4,000 may seem like a lot for a 10 year old car, with that many miles on it, but if the car is in good shape, and was maintained well, it's worth it. Kelly Blue Book should give you some idea what the car is worth, but it's not as accurate on older cars, IMO. 18 months should be no problem, but nothing is a sure thing. Used cars are always a gamble, but I think this car is a safe bet.

tj111

I own a 98 Honda Accord Ex 4 cyl with an OEM factory alarm.

It would alarm on its own daytime and nighttime. I went to start the car one morning, and could not get the car out of Park. I had to use the shift release. I also notice the horn and my cruise control stop working at the same time. The fuse for the cruise control is OK and horn relay OK. Is there a common relay or something that works together with the shift release,cruise control and horn maybe tide in with the alarm and where I can find it?

elroy5

One question. Do your brake lights work (press brake pedal and tail lights light up, release pedal, they go out)?

ilovemyhonda

Nice to know!!!! :shades:

upengan78

I will check the service records but the timing belt / water pump were obviously done and most likely many other items.

That needs to be does not mean owner did it ! so make sure old owner did it and ask when ? otherwise it will be you next expense if owner did it 100000 miles earlier.

Also why not try a Car Check from some mechanics. Either you will have to pay minor amount or nothing at all. I checked my 93000 miles Honda accord when I bought it (from meineke they did it free)

tj111

Your right. I went to check my brake lights today and they are not working.
Any ideas

tj111

I changed the fuse for the brake lights and my shift release, brake lights are working again. I'll check my cruise control out on the highway later. Pretty sure it will work. Only one problem. when I go to honk the horn, I keep blowing fuses and only when I honk the horn. The only other thing I did was disconnect the plug for the hood latch sensor for the OEM alarm. Read this was the problem that is causing my alarm to go off. Thought I try leaving it disconnected instead of replacing it. Car being 10 years old, don't care much for this alarm anymore. Do you think that this could be the problem?
Don't have time to work on it today.

elroy5

The "brake position switch" is the part I know of that operates the brake lights, and releases the shift lever. The switch is located near the brake pedal arm. The lower dash panel may have to be removed to see the switch. It may just need to be adjusted. Don't know about the fuse blowing problem, sorry.

zakiman

CEL came on a two daysa go and I was able to read the code P1456. I replaced the gas cap, and the CEL is still ON. Does it reset itself after a while?

Does anyone know if it is better to reset ( and how?) it or wait till it goes off by itself, assuming the problem was the gas cap.

Thanks a bunch!!
02 Accord 140K

elroy5

If the problem was the gas cap, it should reset itself (in a couple of drives). If you were to disconnect the battery negative cable to reset the computer, make sure you have the radio code.