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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • I read your message and I have a 2000 Accord V6 with the same issue. It only happens periodically and after the engine is warm; just like your case. The engine light comes on and stays on until I clear the codes, which shows all cylinder fail indicators and doesn't pin point the problem. Once cleared the light stays off until the next occurence. I read my manual and for idle issues, it recommended replacing the TPS. On another blog I read where some owners have replace the EPG value. I'm sure what to try first. Any ideas or resolution with your vehicle?
  • hi Mr_Shiftright. Have finally fixed the chirpin sound i used to hear in my car. it was from the shaft. But i still hav a problem of the left tire hittin the fender when i enter a bump. Am suggesting shanging the strings or could it be the shocks?
    Again my air bag red light seems to stay on . What is the possible cause.
    Reply. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Yeah you might have a dead strut on that side (bad shock).

    The air bag light could be a bunch of things. Fuse, bad ground, bad sensor. You'll need to have the codes read on the SRS system to narrow it down. You could check all the fuses I suppose...I think most SRS systems have more than one. Your owner's manual should help with this part at least.

    In any event, with the light on, your air bag is probably not working at the moment.

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  • langolango Posts: 2
    I am having a similiar problem, did you get yours corrected. what up?
  • I had similar problem with my LX v6. One morning out of the blue it cranked but not start. Had it towed to dealer. Tow truck driver tried to start it after delivering it to dealer and started right up. Dealer said it started right up for them too, but the service manager was quite familar with this type of behavior and had the main fuel relay replaced. Never had another problem since. He was great, but he's not with them anymore...unfortunately.
  • Thanks for your input. Do you remember the cost for the relay replacement and do you know if I could perform the swap? I do most of my maintenance and I was wondering; I'm willing to try this if its not too expensive and depending upon whether the dealer has to do it. Its also an unknown on whether this would fix my problem. At this point it would be a trial an error senerio.
  • Thanks. I'll change the shocks alright but the SRS light some say the air bag expires after 10 years. My car is a 1998 model. Could it be possible that the air bag has expired??
    Please reply.
  • I had mine replaced under warranty so I don't know the cost or its location. Sorry.
  • Majestic Honda sells the main relay for under $40. Here is a site for the replacement procedure:

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Well the sensing part of the airbag system has expired, we know that already :P You mean the explosive charge? I doubt it.

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  • psugrimpsugrim Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my brake lamp coming on. When it does, my signals so not work. But if I let off the brakes they work. Did you ever fix your brake light issue. If so can you post it. :confuse:
  • obi3iceobi3ice Posts: 16
    so does that mean it is safe for me to drive it like that? Since the explosive charge hasnt expired, those it mean that on any impact, it will release? Again thanks alot, i finally changed the left back shock absorber to new ones and the hitting of the tires on the fender has stopped. As you said earlier, it was a bad shock absorber causing it all the way.
    Please reply about the air bag.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    No, it's my understanding that if your SRS light is on, the air bag MAY NOT fire. Could be just a bad seat belt sensor or something, but you don't know unless you diagnose it.

    I wouldn't count on the air bag firing, no. There are two ways to find out, one of which I don't recommend. :P

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  • obi3iceobi3ice Posts: 16
    ok. and d other one you recommend is?????
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Diagnose why the light is on and hopefully find out it's a bad seat belt sensor or impact sensor.

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  • Hi Elroy5,
    Just wanted to update you and anybody who's been following this thread that since Jan-19 when the lights went off by themselves, have not come on! This is a great news for me!! :) I do observe that all the lights are working when I start the car.

    I did not bother to check LFI or replace odometer light. But I opened up clock to see if bulb is burnt because the clock doesn't light up. It is burnt. Need to get a new one.

    I have one more question but will post a separate thread for it.

    VJ :)
  • Hi Everybody,
    I have 2000 Honda Accord SE wit Automatic transmission. After car warms up in the morn, the idle speed stays about 700-800 rpm. Is it correct?

    I find this a bit too high, because while idling if I don't press the break the car starts moving by itself. Clearly fuel flow is high enough for it to keep moving. Should I reduce the idle speed. Will it improve economy?

    At most times, gear shifting on this automatic gear box is smooth. But there're times when it is quite jerky. e.g. say we're going downhill at high speed without pressing accelerator and we come stop for taking a turn, now after slowing by great extent, if we apply throttle now, the car doesn't respond immediately. There's a lag in gear engagement. It is as if when we came to stop, the car did not automatically shift down to lower gear to prepare to engage it. After pressing accelerator, it takes a few moments, like 2-3 second gear suddenly engages and car starts moving.

    I find this strange. What do you think? Car has about 87,000 miles. I am the third owner.

    Thanks everybody,
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    As far as the idle speed, in the morning, when the engine is cold, the rpms will be up. If the idle speed does not go down to about 600-650rpm when the engine is at normal operating temperature, then you have a problem.

    The transmission thing now. When I had my 92 Accord, when I came to a stop sign, if I didn't stop the car all the way (0mph), it was like the transmission didn't know what gear to go into. It would hesitate, then take off. If I stopped dry, it would take off normally, in first gear. It did this for 140k miles, and I never had a problem with it, so it wasn't a big deal.

    Sorry I can't solve your problems, but I think they are characteristics of the car.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    It is normal for your car to "idle forward" when you aren't pressing the brake pedal. 700 RPM is where both of my Accords (as well as my grandmother's 2002 LX 4-cyl)seem to rest when at a stop and sufficiently warm (one is a 1996, the other a 2006, both 4-cylinder automatics).

    Don't sweat the idle thing; it sounds just right.
  • biodunbiodun Posts: 1
    I drive a 2002 Honda Accord (4 Cylinder), The Maintenance Required Indicator flickers and goes off whenever i start the engine. i carried out a comprehensive maintenance on the car, afterwards, the indicator comes up whenever I start the engine and stays permanently until the engine is off.

    what do i do next?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Go into your owner's manual and read how to reset it.

    I believe it goes something like this:

    With key in OFF position,

    Push and hold the trip/reset button.

    Keep holding the button, Turn key to II position (seatbelt beep and warning lights come on)

    Hold in this position (button pressed, key in II) for 10-15 sec

    Your light should be reset for another 7500 miles now.
  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    Recently my DRL light has started coming on. What is the purpose of this light? If I turn on my lights the DRL goes out.
  • jjauxierjjauxier Posts: 1
    I just had my ignition switch replaced because of the same problem. There is a recall for this so you should be able to get it fixed at no cost from a Honda dealer. Just beware that they will tell you that you need a lot of other work done, too. They quoted me about $900 worth of work that needs to be done.
  • First the honda seemed to have a little oil around the plug when dh went to change it the last time. We also notice some oil around the #3 spark plug. Made an appointment for Thursday but wondering what we should be expecting. Also how often must the timing belt be changed. I can't find the bill from last time but I think it was around 150K. It has 243k on it now. This is a highway driven car about 150k a day. We would like to keep it for at least another 150k. What should we expect for a repair bill.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Also how often must the timing belt be changed.

    For the 4-cylinder, every 105k miles.

    For the V6, I want to say 60k, but I could be wrong on this one. I'm positive about the 4-cyl though.

    I got quotes ranging from $475 to $750 to replace the belts and water pump on my 1996 Accord (you should replace the water pump when you do the timing belt).
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    105k on my 02 V6. It's about 7-800 for the belt and the water pump,which they do at the same time.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    Pretty sure the v6 is same as 4 cylinder, 7 yrs or 105k. The time factor is just as critical as the mileage since it is made out of rubber. Time can take its toll just as much or maybe even more than mileage. And with the v6 being an interference engine major damage can occur if it breaks.
    If a person waits to do all the 7 yr. 105 k recommended maintenance items at one time, your looking at BIG bucks. I've kind of prioritized them, with the most critical one being timing belt, water pump, seals, drivebelts done together. Next will be replace plugs(and probably wires) and then have the valves adjusted. All together these are about 2k worth of work at the dealer. I just try and spread the cost over a year or so, that way it doesn't sting as much.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I've got very nearly 180k miles on my 1996 Accord 4-cyl and that car has never had (or needed) a valve adjustment. It runs and idles smoothly, and I see no reason to get it done.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    Well, I can't visually SEE why it should be done. Just like I can't visually SEE when a timing belt needs replacing. I trust the engineers who designed the engine to know what they are talking about. My understanding is that the exhaust valves tend to get tighter and the intake valves get looser. If the exhaust valves get too tight you end up with burnt valves and a decrease in compression, hence a decrease in performance. Why risk it? I don't like to waste money either, but all the money I spent trying to properly maintain this car would be for nought if the performance suffers because of neglecting one critical recommended service.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I hear no clacking, and am closing in on 200k miles with the car - I just don't find logic in spending hundreds on a valve adjustment on a $2500 car. I will be having the timing belt done, however, before I sell it next year (already have a buyer who has wanted it for 2 years).
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