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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    I think a "best buy" is having your annual inspection done by the dealer. They are looking for work and will certainly find whatever is wrong with your car for free,in effect. No charge for this fascinating suggestion. :)
  • My sons girlfriend needs to replace the drivers side electric window motor. has anyone completed this? Was it easy? I plan on checking the fuses, and then will look at removing the door and gaining access to the motor? Is it gear driven at the point of contact? Maybe it just needs a good cleaning, or bad connection. Don't know any history? when and if it ever worked?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    This may be somewhat helpful:

    Select your model, year, trim, and research items "Front Door".

    Could be a fuse or relay (does she have her manual)?

    Then again, could be switch, wire harness, regulator (motor).

    Did you try the "lockout switch"? Do any of the other windows move?
  • I just bought a 2001 honda accord ex and the first time you drive it each day it hard shifts from 1st to 2nd. After about 5 minutes its fine and wont do it again until the next day. Is this a transmission issue or maybe it needs the fluid flushed? It has 132k on it. It dirve smooth after the initial 5 minutes. Any thoughts?
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Don't flush it. Just do a drain and fill using only Honda brand ATF. About $60 at the dealer.
  • swiggy8swiggy8 Posts: 1
    Hi. My Low Fuel Indicator light used to come on in my 1998 Honda Accord when I had the factory air intake installed. But since I replaced it with a newer cold air intake, my Low Fuel Indicator light has stopped turning on. And this has been going on for well over 6 years. And although it doesn't bother me, I know my car can go way under the E before running out of gas. So, I have just learned to deal with it.
    Just thought you should know.
  • dvdlghdvdlgh Posts: 9
    I had a Mazda with the same problem. Instead of replacing the electric motor, I cleaned it buy spraying electric contact cleaner into one of the small holes in the motor housing. After "swishing" it around good I drained it and filled it with electric motor oil and drained it again. I reconnected the electrical connection and the motor worked fine. Make sure you try it under load (installed and operating the window). It was still working fine when I sold the car a few years later. You can get electric motor oil in a small container for a few bucks at a good hardware store. Get a Haynes manual for the car and be sure to read the section on the airbags before doing anything eletrical, epecially around the dash and doors. It's not as difficult as it appears. I don't know what a Honda dealer charges for labor by you, but two years ago it was $85/hr in my area.
  • rogrdatrogrdat Posts: 2
    For my 2002 Accord V6, the driver's side front window no longer responds to the switches. I would appreciate if anyone has ideas as to what I could check / do to address this problem.

    thanks in advance,
  • selimozselimoz Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Accord ; as the temps are going up it it stalls, I have the same problem , if you fined the answer please let me know
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You'll have to take the door panel off, and meter the switch output to the motor. Problem could be a bad switch, or a bad motor.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    you checked fuses. how about relays? one thing you can do is swap relays for the Driver's Side door with the Passenger's (providing the part number is the same). If the window works after that, well... you've found what needs replacing.
  • did you ever figure out the problem?? because i have a 1998 accord as well with 196,000 miles, and it just started doing the same thing a couple weeks ago. its like it will be fine for a few days and then have a bad day, but its weird because it starts right back up.
  • jm72jm72 Posts: 1
    I need to know what to expect and what the reccomended maintance would be for a 2000 Honda Accord that has just hit 75,000 miles...
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I need to know what to expect and what the reccomended maintance would be for a 2000 Honda Accord that has just hit 75,000 miles...

    It depends on which shop you go to for the maintenance. My advise would be to shop around. The dealership will usually be higher than another local shop, but you have to consider they know more about Accords than other shops do. You could probably find a shop that will only do a few "absolutely necessary" items, and only charge you a couple hundred $$$. Another shop may want to perform "the works", and charge you $700 or more. :surprise:
  • I bought a 2002 Honda Accord SE about 9 months ago,

    The alarm keeps going off randomly. Horn goes off, lights flash, yeah.
    I know there have been some posts about this before, but I didn't see any resolutions to it.
    I can't just leave it unlocked 'cause I have street parking in the city. And for that same reason, of course I can't let it keep going.
    There's not some giant moose or something jumping on my car to set it off, 'cause it went off while I was walking away from it in my work parking lot yesterday, haha.

    How do I go about adjusting the sensitivity, if that's where the problem is? What else should I check it for?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The first thing I'd do is check your battery, making sure it still has a proper amount of juice.
  • mentiyamentiya Posts: 17
    Hello. I have a 1998 Honda Accord ex V-6 with a check engine light coming on reading a code of p420. So I know that I need to get a new catalytic converter but my question is what kind do I get? I spoke with Honda and their part is about $800.00 and then labor, tax, etc. Total would be around $1,100.00. I spoke with other shops and their total would be around $4-$600.00 depending on whether or not I replace the 2 O2 sensors. I have always gotten Honda parts put on my car, because I have learned my lesson the hard way before. The only thing is this part is really expensive and I am wondering if I purchase an aftermarket part, will it hold up as well? The aftermarket has a 5yr. warrenty/50,000 mi. but in my mind I shouldn't have to replace it again. Anyway, if anyone has suggestions on going with a Honda catylitic converter or not a Honda, I would love to hear from you. In the mean time, I am driving it but not as much for fear of possibly damaging other engine components? Thanks, Heather
  • gygglzgygglz Posts: 1
    I have a '99 honda accord lx. I have had it for two years. Yesterday when I went to put it in reverse it made a grinding noise. I thought if it lightly put on some gas it would maybe catch but it just idled high and made the same grinding noise and wouldn't move. All my drives work from D4 to my lowest gear which is 1. I even put it in my lowest gear moved a lil and slowly put it in reverse but it still made the noise.

    So... My question is would it be my tranny or something to do with linkage? I'm just upset if its my tranny already. I did everything getting my tune ups every year (that's all I could afford) and getting oil changes everytime I needed one. My mechanic said my tranny is gone. Another friend of mine who is a mechanic said it has to do with a linkage thing. What do you think? I thought if my tranny was gone would it still work in drive? I noticed it slipping a few times driving it. Sometimes it shifted hard too. I'm just bummed cuz I don't have my car I miss it already lol and I just wanna get to the bottom of it. Thanks!
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    yeah, not cheap.

    you can do better on the OEM price: - - cgry1=ACCORD&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=4DR+EXV6&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=EXHAUST+PIP- - - E+%28V6%29

    have you spoken to an independant shop?

    personally if it were me with the 98, i'd go with an aftermarket CAT, and since most of these claim exact fit replacement, i'd do it myself (since I have a set of ramps).

    if you aren't mechanically inclined and don't have a means of getting the car elevated for a DIY job (in a pinch, one can use the curb :surprise: ) - i'd suggest speaking with an independant shop, asking if they have any experience going aftermarket in that area, then i'd ask how much would it cost for them to replace the unit (labor) if you acquired the part.

    caveat: if it was a california model vehicle or operated in california, you might have to go new OEM or perhaps resalvaged OEM. research it.
  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    I recently had the same problem. My honda is a 4 cylinder. I bough the OEM catalytic converter from Majestic Honda in Rhode Island. the Cat is about 400 dollars, plus shipping. I purchased a new Catalytic converter, A pipe, oxygen sensor all hardware, hangers and heat shields. I took it all to the local muffler shop and for $100 plus tax they installed all. The car sounds great, no check engine light. I don't believe in after market parts. In my prelude many years back I went with after market exhausts and the car sounded like crap, I swore I would never do it again. The Honda stainless parts are a good quality part. The guys at the muffler shop even commented that the parts are of good quality compared to what they install.

    Good luck.
  • rdj9212rdj9212 Posts: 1
    That was easy on the passenger side how about the drivers side

  • mentiyamentiya Posts: 17
    Hey, I just want to say thank you for your help. I am not too mechanically inclined, however I am learning. It has been 4 months since my check engine light first came on and just recently it sounds like my car is getting a little louder. I have been trying to get as much information on this as I can and have been debating about an after market cat or a Honda cat. I know a mechanic and he has a Honda book (can't remember the name of it) where he can order a Honda cat for around $560.00. I think I am going to go that route after hearing you talk about your after market experience. I take really good care of my car and am not comfortable taking any shortcuts on it or cheaping out, however I am all about shopping around to get the best deal on a good quality part:) I did check Majestic Honda and I think the cat was around $600.00? I was also questioning whether I could purchase my own parts and then pay a shop to install, I wasn't sure if you could do that, so thanks for mentioning that. I think $560 isn't too bad considering all the Honda dealerships that I have contacted have quoted me $762.00 to $1,100.00 just for the cat itself! Then $84/hr. labor on top of that. I really want to thank everyone that responded to my message as I have read your advice and information carefully, and you have helped me in my decision making. Thanks again, and if you have anymore help to offer it would be greatly appreciated:) Heather
  • mentiyamentiya Posts: 17
    Oh, I think I forgot to ask this...but if the catylitic converter gets too clogged ( if that is the case) would my car start to sound a little louder? Or would that be related to one of my mufflers? Thanks again, Heather:)
  • lusilklusilk Posts: 2
    You need to change your hood latch. There is a sensor in hood latch, which gets screwed up, has to be changed. I had a 100%same problem, middle of the night alarm would come on. I got it from a wrecker, changed it, now I can lock the car and also sleep at night. Good Luck
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    you are asking a good question. the vehicle getting louder is generally a sign you have a hole somewhere in the exhaust system.

    i know you are not mechanically inclined but you've done the appropriate sleuthing and research. a little more could pay off.

    if you lived in a sub-division or know somewhere you could do this:

    you could drive your car carefully 1/2 up onto the curb/yard, 1/2 on the street (and when I say 1/2 I mean driver's side on the street, passenger side on the curb/yard). the way to do this (without ramps is to use the driveway entrance, and instead of parallel parking to the curb, drive the passenger 1/2 of the car into the driveway and up on the curb). by doing so, your elevating 1/2 of the car (the whole passenger side) so you can scoot yourself under the car. this is the way you can get under a car without ramps or a lift...

    now, put the emergency brake on. wait for the car to cool down (2 hours perhaps).

    now scoot under the car on your back. trace the piping from the exhaust manifold down-pipe to the cat and back to the muffler looking for a hole. providing the piping is cold enough (remember how to use your wrist to sense temp before you touch something?) feel the pipe... the hole may not be visible but you can feel it.

    look for any hole, disconnected pipe, even a dangling or missing O2 sensor. you know where to go on majestic's site to see the exploded view.

    it's possible depending on where the hole is (or if a missing 02 sensor) that your problem isn't the CAT. :shades:
  • mentiyamentiya Posts: 17
    Thank you, I will give this a try. My car isn't excessively loud but I notice a different sound when I am driving...just doesn't sound like it did before. Nevertheless I will check the exhaust system for a hole and check the O2 sensors. I still had that code P0420 from when my check engine light came on back in January. That is not a specific code for anything is it? Just the emissions system.....Honda read the code and said I need a new CAT and left it at that. Well, I guess before I get too carried away trying to figure this out, first things first....I will check like you said for hole or anything that doesn't look right. Thanks again for taking the time to help. Heather:)
  • lusilklusilk Posts: 2
    I suggeted you to change the hood latch assembly, that has a sensor, which screws up. Get it from a wrecker and fix your problem.
  • jazzchazjazzchaz Posts: 19
    i recently purchased, and after 5 days, check engine lite came on, and code PO171 (lean bank 1..?) exhibited....any idea what the fix is?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Either the O2 Sensor is reading wrong, or the engine is running lean (bad mixture or starving for air). Have you checked the air filter, or for vacume leaks?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    also....airflow sensor, intake maniforl gasket
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