Thanks Duper. Procedure looks lengthy, but works well. I would think that after a few practice runs, it would come naturally. My Mechanical Engineer friend says: this is due to tranny binding due to those few inches of forward or backward rocking of the car, after the foot brake is released.
What you described is normal and happens on all vechicles. Also, anytime that you park uphill. Press and hold the brake pedal. Turn your wheels away from the curb. Switch to neutral and let the vechicle roll back toward the curb, then apply the parking/emergency brake. When parking downhill, do the same but turn the wheels to the curb. (Also, note that this is after your in the parking space.)
It is highlighted in the DVD. If you don't have the time or the patience to read the manual, I highly recommend the DVD, keeping the manual with you for more detail of something that gets your attention.
I can second that. We had 1999, 2000, 2002 Odys. ALL had tranny issues -though the 2002 was by far the best- they were actually able to identify the problem and fix it. (gear cooling issue, resolved by adding an additional cooling jet to apply fluid direction to the gear set in question.) Each of those vehicles had a different tranny. I mean physical difference that was obvious when you viewed it without disassembly. And each had problems. The first two had shifting issues that were never fully resolved.
I would NOT buy a used 1999-2001 Ody, no matter how "good of a deal" it was. The 2002, after the retrofit recall, was another story. Still a little nerve racking, but at least it was identified. It's part of why we traded our 2002 at 81k miles (we had a 7yr/100k mile warranty and could get significantly more back for it w/ 81k than 100k).
Not so much loyal (maybe stupid?). Actually, two reasons- a) wife REALLY loves the features of the van and claims she is more comfortable and feels more in control driving the Odys than any other vehicle. She spent two days at the auto show trying to find something else she would like and came up with something "acceptable".
b) the dealer made it such an economically good thing I couldn't choose otherwise. Would cost me more to go to another vehicle. I looked at each one on a cost per mile basis. Was at 15c/mile without ttl and xtnded warranty. W/ 8yr/120k/0Ded warranty +TTL, it came to under 18c/mile. I could go to something cheaper (that my wife didn't like), but couldn't get the same trade in, so the cost would be nearly as much in $$$ and much higher in WDI (wife dissatisfaction index).
All tranny issues each time were either under orig 36/36 warranty or the HondaCare, so not out of pocket directly, but not due to any noble act of Honda. (OTOH, many of my biggest prblms were when svc techs screwed up.)
Thanks for the information, and in the end you gotta keep the WDI as low as possible.
Its funny, but we (wife and I) drove practically all the vans on the market and we both concur with your wife in that the Odyssey was the most comfortable vehicle (not just the seats) and that we felt more in control with the vehicle. Reminded me much more of a sedan than a minivan.
The nice thing about the 06 Odyssey is that the tranny is covered for 5yr/60K miles, so I felt pretty comfortable (I rarely keep a vehicle more than 5-6 years or 50-70K (we only put about 8-10K miles on our vehicles a year).
Sounds to me like you bought the right vehicle based on your needs, and with the extended warranty you will be covered for a long time. Lets all hope that Honda has put these transmission issues behind them.
My van is barely 2 weeks old and I noticed the wind noise almost immediately. Looks like the TSB (#04-078) was issued April 11, 2006. I wish they fixed this BEFORE I picked up the car! One more thing to add to list for them to fix at my 1000K mile oil change!
does anyone know if the original factory oil is specially formulated to aid in engine break-in? the reason i ask is that the owner's manual states that one should wait until the maintainance minder calls for a change, especially the first change, or one year, whatever comes first...thanks
Usually the oil in the engine when new is "special". I have a 2006 Odyssey EX-L, 9 months old with 3500 miles on it (all highway). I called the Honda dealer and they said that I should wait until at least 3500 miles before the first oil change. I will get that oil change soon and go with dino oil. Then about another 3000 miles I will switch to synthetic. This way I do not feel that I will be getting a shortened break in period, but will also not have the oil in too long.
>Usually the oil in the engine when new is "special".
Can you substantiate that statement, for any brand of car? Someone in a discussion long ago found that the only thing special about Honda breakin oil was a high molybdenum content, which is true of some oils, nothing special.
What's your source that all companies use a 'special' oil for the factory fill?
Duper - I first noticed it going over an overpass on a windy day. Sounds like it is coming from the driverside and just over the steering wheel (lower left corner). Traveling at highway speeds. I also noticed it right after putting up the window. It was so loud I thought my window did not close properly.
I'm glad I found other people in this forum with the same problem or I probably would have just lived with the noise and never questioned it.
YES YES YES!! This is the ONLY thing that bugged me about my precious 06 Ody, so I'm so glad to know 1) what it is, and 2) that it's normal.
I've never noticed it in any of my previous cars (3 Hondas and 1 Ford) but none of them had ABS so I guess it makes sense that it never happened before.
The only outright offense both my wife & I commit is often using the car for short trips...probably anywhere from 1/5th of a mile to 1/2 of a mile. Neither of us zip from a standing start...we live in Brooklyn, NY, park on the street, & are always boxed in by one car in front...one in back. It takes a while to ease out of the spot before ever really driving. (Maybe that's one of the problems??) At least based on my definition, doesn't that fall under the "city driving" umbrella? Also, I get anywhere from 18-20 mpg on the highway - substantially less than what Honda/EPA alleged (but maybe not as horrific as my in-city numbers. In any event, thanks so much for taking the time to respond.
Yup and it's only 2 weeks old ! At 20 cents a mile over 12K I'm in trouble!
Salesman told me to have the oil changed at 1000 (1K) miles. I'm reading here that others were told to change it at 3500. Also, the salesguy said the interval is to change the oil every 7500 miles. I have yet to find this or any number in the manual as to when to change it. I guess the oil life indicator is set to 7500 miles ???
the indicator is based on how you drive. SO, it might say get an oil change at 4K, 5K, or 7.5K.
ON my '05, it has gone just about 5k each time (3 oil changes so far), which worked out to about 5 months each.
I wouldn't go past 5K or 6 months, no matter what the indicator says. Of course, it is only pretty recently that I was willing to give up on the tradtional 3K intervals!
The oil life indicator is programmed to monitor several parameters - amoung these are engine speed, throttle position and miles driven. If the factory recommended changing the oil at 1000 (that's 1k miles ) then it would be a simple item to program into the oil life indicator, and it would TELL you to change the oil early.
In short, go by what the oil life indicator tells you; not by what the salesman tells you (particularly if you find nothing in the owner's manual about an early change).
First of all, it sounds like you are conscious of your driving and truthful in your posts. I think there is something mechanically wrong with your van. I have had my van over three weeks and have driven almost exclusively (85-90%) city, and we are averaging close to 19MPG. Granted, we have been babying the van during the break in period but the fact of the matter is your van is already broken in, and you should at least be getting 15-19 city and 22-25 highway.
Can you call around to a few local dealers and describe your problem? Maybe one of them will actually listen to you and do some extensive testing to see if something is amiss.
OK third time and after two dealers... The tech says... There engine has porous metal parts. So they had to seal it. to prevent the porous ness. It is like that when they casted that part in the mold. They are saying they contacted the honda corporate and they advices then what to do.... I sent the lemon letter to Honda anyway. Since this is a critical part (engine) and the manufacturing defect, I will be asking them to replace the engine with new or give me a new van.. I only have 7k on it.. The tech gave me a TSB also. Apparantly this is on going problem at Honda... :lemon:
OK the TSB is 01-009 issued 02/2004. ... I know,,, i know.... like i said before, this is what honda corp directed the dealer to do.. and he says he did find the leak thru porous engine block... it effects all v6 engines of accord , ody, and pilot...
Can you substantiate that statement, for any brand of car? Someone in a discussion long ago found that the only thing special about Honda breakin oil was a high molybdenum content, which is true of some oils, nothing special That would make it special. It is probably some additives and not the oil itself. Molibdinum Disulfide is a high performance lubrication additive. When engines are assembled, an assembly lube is used to coat all of the wear surfaces. This assembly lube would remain in the oil until the first oil change. Also, it would make no sense to specify a minimum number of miles before the first oil change except to give a good break in.
Just got our new 06 ODY (RES/NAV) which so far has been great-
but after adjusting the A/C vents above the 2nd Row seats, the plastic tabs keep popping off (even when gently moving the tabs) and it seems that I need to "snap" the tabs back into place. Having the van for only a few hours, and seeing this happen is concerning. Is this supposed to occur with such little force? (In trying to fix the tabs, I mangaged to accidently pull out several other vent tabs during the process!!!)
Anyone else encounter this problem? thanks :surprise:
I think what he is saying is that most manufacturers put additional additives in the oil for the break-in period and sometimes ask that folks not to change their oil at the 3000 mile mark the first time.
My advice is to follow what Honda tells you and wait until the oil indicator lets you know it is time for an oil change. Someone else mentioned that Honda recommended that you not change the oil the first time before 3500 miles.
I finally took my '06 Odyssey to the dealer to find out about what I thought was engine knocking. After two days the dealer isolated the noise to a rear exhaust shield rattling. Tightening a few bolts and the noise was gone. I have owned cars for over 40 years and thought this was a case of valve knocking but, alas, it was something simple. Kudos to Bankston Honda for finding the noise and sticking with the problem.
Have had the new Ody for about a month and love it; am trying to determine if the goofy navi output is "normal" for this car. For short local trips, the projected driving time seems about right. When I enter in a destination that is, say, 600+ miles away, the remaining driving time shows up with a very unrealistic time remaining (like 16 hours for a 10 hour trip). Even when we're on the road, the time comes down in an odd way, only at 1 hour increments until I'm fairly close to my destination. Is that "normal"?
I have an Acura 2000 w/Nav and it's accurate at any distance so it's not a general problem with the Alpine system.
* The manual specifically says not to change the oil early. (I don't have it in front of me to quote, but you can look it up.) You don't have to be an expert in tribology to understand and follow the mfr's recommendation. * Changing the oil less frequently than recommended can affect your warranty coverage, but changing at the mfr's recommendation can only reinforce any claim.
The mfr has designed, tested, and studied the vehicle. True, the engineers can make, and have made, mistakes. But with all the information, technical resources and testing at their disposal, I'd say you have a better chance following the mfr's recommendation than taking your own guess without any data. However, if you still want to second-guess the mfr, the following might be the start of a logical approach:
-Take an oil sample and have it analyzed. If the lab results indicate that the oil viscosity, contaminant levels, additive package depletion, pH, etc. are all fine, don't change it early. If one or more are not good, then you have reason to change it.
-If you're worried about metal particles from break-in: Your filter should catch anything large, and even so, smaller particles will show up as iron or aluminum contaminants in the above oil analysis. If you absolutely must do something to sleep at night, just change the oil filter after 1000 miles and top off the shortfall of engine oil.
Anything more than the above is wasting oil at best, removing add'l break-in lubricants at worst.
>* Changing the oil less frequently than recommended can affect your warranty coverage, but changing at the mfr's recommendation can only reinforce any claim.
So you're trying to say that changing the oil earlier than 10K mi is going to affect your warranty claim?
No thanks. I'll change at reasonable intervals.
Remember the company is in the business of selling new cars and service on the ones they've already sold. If they are given extra care they last longer; fewer car sales if customers return to your brand.
>removing add'l break-in lubricants at worst.
And what are those "add'l break-in lubricants" and please be specific when you list them. Any tribologists will have that answer readily at hand. LOL
dc_driver - Thanks again for responding. Regarding your figures, now I've got a bad case of mpg envy. Up to now I've had two dealers check out my car...and as far as they were concerned, nothing is wrong. Obviously, I feel the same as you...there has to be something wrong. In any event, I will speak with &/or go to more dealers. Maybe one of them will be honest. Regardless, I'm really surprised and border-line dismayed at Honda's response. I had the impression they would have more integrity.
for this you need someone that is really good as sleuthing. perhaps one of the outfits which mods vehicles will be of more help.
presuming there is no restriction in the air intake, and there is no obvious hose issues and no CEL/codes...
i'd probably consider the following: a). Faulty MAF (mass airflow sensor) b). Faulty Engine Temp Sensor c). Bad Catalytic Convertor (if clogged for example) d). Bad 02 sensor(s) e). A sticking fuel injector
i'm not sure how you'd go about diagnosing each of these, but i'd research it. perhaps an independent shop would be willing to swap some stuff for you with you tracking your MPG before and after.
if they'd been hooking your vehicle up to scanners and running diagnostics, looking for sensors in the nominal range, ask how they'd diagnose a bad/defective catalytic convertor.
have they ruled out the possibility that your parking brake is not fully disengaging or you may have a stuck caliper? with the vehicle up and in neutral (for front wheels), do all spin without resistance? after driving and stopping does one wheel feel specially hot?
I'm thinking that you're just looking for an argument, but for the off chance that you're sincere-
LESS FREQUENTLY means not as often. So, yes, if you change LESS FREQUENTLY (i.e. not as often) then you can void your warranty. I did not say changing more freqently would void your warranty.
That question was answered in general terms by several of the earlier posters. I gave you the benefit of the doubt that you were truly looking for answers instead of an argument. No, not "any tribologist" will have that answer readily at hand. [Before you ask, I am not a tribologist, but I am a mechanical engineer that designs machinery (gears, bearings, hydraulic power and control systems, etc.) and I specify the lubricants used in assembly and maintenance of those systems, using those lubricants as the lubricant mfr recommends.] You would have to know specifically what assembly lubricants Honda uses, and what oil is used to fill the case at the factory. I don't, and I don't need to know. I only need to know what the mfr recommends and maybe why. You've been given that info. If you need more than that, you should review the shop manual in case it is given in the rebuild section, or contact Amer Honda.
I was pointing out the flaws in your statement technique. And as for the people who cite their opinion alleging knowledge of the lubricant just because the manual said so...
So until someone comes up with a real reason the oil is special, noone seems to know. So I'll change mine when I feel it's ready to be changed, 7.5k or 10k miles meaning nothing other than the manual suggests it. I recall the days everyone was told they could only have their oil changed at the dealer of that brand and they could only use that brand's oil filter and other replacement parts...
One of the vehicles that I am considering would be the 2007 Odyssey for both business and personal reasons. It would give me the space to carry items, and the seating would be more comfortable. With this in mind, I have been following this topic very carefully. Honda has a great design in this vehicle, but they have "issues" that somehow, they have not addressed in a professional manner. These issues are as follows: 1.) Transmission problems, 2.) Exhaust noise (hum), 3.) Sliding door malfunctions, and 4.) Power steering problems. I realize that an extended warranty would cover these issues, but why should a customer have to "put-up-with" the inconvenience of the malfunction, and the repair process? The transmission and the sliding door issues have been going on for some time. I would assume, that Honda does read these computer sites, and sees how annoyed the customers are about the quality, so why hasn't Honda management done something about the problems?----- Best regards. ---- Dwayne
Your '05 Odyssey has a major problem. I have a 1999 BMW 740i with 300HP V8 engine and in hard city driving I get 16MPG and HWY (always over 70MPH) I get 22. You need to get Honda to do a through check. All these problems are making me re-consider purchasing one as our family car.
"These issues are as follows: 1.) Transmission problems, 2.) Exhaust noise (hum), 3.) Sliding door malfunctions, and 4.) Power steering problems."
1. Transmission problems appear to be endemic to the previous generation Odyssey. I'm unaware of indications that Honda hasn't fixed this problem with the current generation.
2. The humming/droning issue appears to be either a) highly subjective (most don't hear a thing) and/or b) fairly uncommon. Honestly, we've got nearly 25k miles on our '06 and I have NO idea what humming/droning noise other people are hearing. Maybe I'm just not very sensitive.
3. Sliding door malfunctions - also appear to be sporatic. I think the mechanism is more prone to dirt gumming up the works than it should be and the sliders could have been better integrated into the body. We had an early issue with a noisy slider but it was caused to dirt buildup in the mechanism (we've since had no issues) BUT, I think virtually all minivan makes report SOME problems with their sliders. Are any of these truely trouble-free?
4. Power steering problems? What power steering problems?
What you'll find is that these sites do not represent the exact number of problems out there on the roads. There are 477 posts in this thread. If every post was a unique person/defect...that's not even anywhere near qualifying as a manufacturing issue. They put 150,000+ of these on the roads every year. 1500 defects of the same part would be 1% which is actually a very good defect rate.
How many other failures are out there that don't hit the forums? That's a big unknown...but the simple fact is something that is a major problem will show up in many other places (the evening news...recalls...TSB's). And this applies to every brand out there, not just Honda.
It's fairly well known that earlier Honda transmissions were problematic. How do we know? Honda recalled/extended the warranty on them and tried to make it right. Dodge has done this with their transmissions as well. So have many others. I've read of quite a few problems on here and overall have had nothing to complain about with my Ody in 13 months/13k miles.
user777 - Thanks again for responding & your suggestions. Unfortunately, I don't talk the talk so a lot of your suggestions leave me in the dust. However, I really appreciate your specific suggestions and I'll take the list to the next dealer/mechanic I visit and ask them to check them out. Thanks
Although I'm furious that Honda (both the dealers & the corporation) seem unable or unwilling to deal with my problem, to be fair, no one has responded with similar complaints (leading me to think either it's my car or I'm a frighteningly bad driver.) Other than mpgs, (again to be fair)I think the car's great. (Still, if Honda reads this forum, I really appreciate your sentiment.) Thanks again.
I left one of the sliding doors open while my '06 Ody was parked in my garage for 3 days. Even though I had turned off the interior lights with the dash switch, the battery was dead.
After charging the battery I took the van to a local Honda dealer who checked the battery and showed me that it was fine. One service tech told me leaving the sliding door open would not put a drain on the battery, while a second tech told me it would.
With the sliding door open you likely have a dome light on, which will slowly drain the battery. Honda has elected not to incorporate a battery saving feature into their interior lighting system which would shut all the interior lights off after a certain interval.
Many other vehicles have had this feature for years. My 1996 Caravan has this and it has saved me a discharged battery a few times over the years.
The Ody DOES have a battery saver if you leave the doors open. It will shut off the interior lights after 30 minutes. What the Ody is lacking is the ability to shut off a single dome light (manually turned on) if it is left on. The dash panel will override the manual switch though, so if you shut off the the main dash switch, all the lights will be off.
I've never left a door open, so I feel the battery saver offered by other manufacturers is better. Honda missed that one, but they do have some form of battery saver.
IMHO, the door being left open could be reporting to the computer that it's open. That may have been enough to drain the battery. The doors work completely seperate from the keyed ignition, so there is always power to them. I'm just guessing, but it's obvious leaving the door open must have drained the battery. Now if it happens with the doors shut...then it must be something else.
"I've never left a door open, so I feel the battery saver offered by other manufacturers is better. Honda missed that one, but they do have some form of battery saver."
Gotta agree with you. On three separate occassions I've gone out to the garage and discovered that the kids had turned on EVERY one of the interior dome lights. I don't know WHY overhead lights are so much fun for 4 and 6 year olds to mess with.
Why Honda's 'battery saver' ONLY works on the overhead dome lights with the doors open is a mystery to me.
I stand corrected, the Ody has a "semi"-battery saver feature. Still not as good as my ten year old Caravan apparently, which shuts the lights off no matter how they are left on.
i have a 05 EXL-RES and my ody has humming/vibration and power steering problem. Also the break pad is starting to make noise. By the way, I don't think 1% of defect rate is good, at least not for a Honda.
Comments
Again, thanks for your help.
It takes a few tries then it becomes second nature and you don't even pay attention to it
Interesting observation! I always wonder why sometimes the sliding door doesn't open all the way.
As some other people pointed out, it's a safety measure to prevent kids from sticking their heads out the windows and the doors slide open.
Heads roll!
If you don't have the time or the patience to read the manual, I highly recommend the DVD, keeping the manual with you for more detail of something that gets your attention.
We had 1999, 2000, 2002 Odys.
ALL had tranny issues -though the 2002 was by far the best- they were actually able to identify the problem and fix it. (gear cooling issue, resolved by adding an additional cooling jet to apply fluid direction to the gear set in question.) Each of those vehicles had a different tranny. I mean physical difference that was obvious when you viewed it without disassembly. And each had problems.
The first two had shifting issues that were never fully resolved.
I would NOT buy a used 1999-2001 Ody, no matter how "good of a deal" it was. The 2002, after the retrofit recall, was another story. Still a little nerve racking, but at least it was identified. It's part of why we traded our 2002 at 81k miles (we had a 7yr/100k mile warranty and could get significantly more back for it w/ 81k than 100k).
My hope is that "the 4 time is the charm".
Just out of curiosity, out of all the vans did you have to pay for new transmissions out of pocket, or did Honda take care of you?
a) wife REALLY loves the features of the van and claims she is more comfortable and feels more in control driving the Odys than any other vehicle. She spent two days at the auto show trying to find something else she would like and came up with something "acceptable".
b) the dealer made it such an economically good thing I couldn't choose otherwise. Would cost me more to go to another vehicle. I looked at each one on a cost per mile basis. Was at 15c/mile without ttl and xtnded warranty. W/ 8yr/120k/0Ded warranty +TTL, it came to under 18c/mile.
I could go to something cheaper (that my wife didn't like), but couldn't get the same trade in, so the cost would be nearly as much in $$$ and much higher in WDI (wife dissatisfaction index).
All tranny issues each time were either under orig 36/36 warranty or the HondaCare, so not out of pocket directly, but not due to any noble act of Honda.
(OTOH, many of my biggest prblms were when svc techs screwed up.)
Its funny, but we (wife and I) drove practically all the vans on the market and we both concur with your wife in that the Odyssey was the most comfortable vehicle (not just the seats) and that we felt more in control with the vehicle. Reminded me much more of a sedan than a minivan.
The nice thing about the 06 Odyssey is that the tranny is covered for 5yr/60K miles, so I felt pretty comfortable (I rarely keep a vehicle more than 5-6 years or 50-70K (we only put about 8-10K miles on our vehicles a year).
Sounds to me like you bought the right vehicle based on your needs, and with the extended warranty you will be covered for a long time. Lets all hope that Honda has put these transmission issues behind them.
TSB info:
www.alldata.com/tsb
Is there a specific speed that these noise will amplify or it's mostly constant and obvious at freeway speed?
Can you substantiate that statement, for any brand of car? Someone in a discussion long ago found that the only thing special about Honda breakin oil was a high molybdenum content, which is true of some oils, nothing special.
What's your source that all companies use a 'special' oil for the factory fill?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Duper - I first noticed it going over an overpass on a windy day. Sounds like it is coming from the driverside and just over the steering wheel (lower left corner). Traveling at highway speeds. I also noticed it right after putting up the window. It was so loud I thought my window did not close properly.
I'm glad I found other people in this forum with the same problem or I probably would have just lived with the noise and never questioned it.
I've never noticed it in any of my previous cars (3 Hondas and 1 Ford) but none of them had ABS so I guess it makes sense that it never happened before.
Thanks for posting about it!
Holy smokes! You've already got a million miles on your Ody?
:P
In any event, thanks so much for taking the time to respond.
Salesman told me to have the oil changed at 1000 (1K) miles. I'm reading here that others were told to change it at 3500. Also, the salesguy said the interval is to change the oil every 7500 miles. I have yet to find this or any number in the manual as to when to change it. I guess the oil life indicator is set to 7500 miles ???
ON my '05, it has gone just about 5k each time (3 oil changes so far), which worked out to about 5 months each.
I wouldn't go past 5K or 6 months, no matter what the indicator says. Of course, it is only pretty recently that I was willing to give up on the tradtional 3K intervals!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
In short, go by what the oil life indicator tells you; not by what the salesman tells you (particularly if you find nothing in the owner's manual about an early change).
Can you call around to a few local dealers and describe your problem? Maybe one of them will actually listen to you and do some extensive testing to see if something is amiss.
The tech says...
There engine has porous metal parts. So they had to seal it. to prevent the porous ness. It is like that when they casted that part in the mold.
They are saying they contacted the honda corporate and they advices then what to do....
I sent the lemon letter to Honda anyway. Since this is a critical part (engine) and the manufacturing defect, I will be asking them to replace the engine with new or give me a new van.. I only have 7k on it..
The tech gave me a TSB also. Apparantly this is on going problem at Honda... :lemon:
OK the TSB is 01-009 issued 02/2004. ...
I know,,, i know.... like i said before, this is what honda corp directed the dealer to do.. and he says he did find the leak thru porous engine block...
it effects all v6 engines of accord , ody, and pilot...
http://www.hondapilot.org/forums/showthread/t-4188.html
That would make it special.
It is probably some additives and not the oil itself. Molibdinum Disulfide is a high performance lubrication additive. When engines are assembled, an assembly lube is used to coat all of the wear surfaces. This assembly lube would remain in the oil until the first oil change.
Also, it would make no sense to specify a minimum number of miles before the first oil change except to give a good break in.
but after adjusting the A/C vents above the 2nd Row seats, the plastic tabs keep popping off (even when gently moving the tabs) and it seems that I need to "snap" the tabs back into place. Having the van for only a few hours, and seeing this happen is concerning. Is this supposed to occur with such little force? (In trying to fix the tabs, I mangaged to accidently pull out several other vent tabs during the process!!!)
Anyone else encounter this problem?
thanks :surprise:
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My advice is to follow what Honda tells you and wait until the oil indicator lets you know it is time for an oil change. Someone else mentioned that Honda recommended that you not change the oil the first time before 3500 miles.
I have an Acura 2000 w/Nav and it's accurate at any distance so it's not a general problem with the Alpine system.
I think it's default to Direct Route and that sometimes takes you into smaller streets or separate highways which result in slower time.
I think it also take the speed limit into account when calculate routes.
* The manual specifically says not to change the oil early.
(I don't have it in front of me to quote, but you can look it up.) You don't have to be an expert in tribology to understand and follow the mfr's recommendation.
* Changing the oil less frequently than recommended can affect your warranty coverage, but changing at the mfr's recommendation can only reinforce any claim.
The mfr has designed, tested, and studied the vehicle.
True, the engineers can make, and have made, mistakes. But with all the information, technical resources and testing at their disposal, I'd say you have a better chance following the mfr's recommendation than taking your own guess without any data. However, if you still want to second-guess the mfr, the following might be the start of a logical approach:
-Take an oil sample and have it analyzed. If the lab results indicate that the oil viscosity, contaminant levels, additive package depletion, pH, etc. are all fine, don't change it early. If one or more are not good, then you have reason to change it.
-If you're worried about metal particles from break-in: Your filter should catch anything large, and even so, smaller particles will show up as iron or aluminum contaminants in the above oil analysis. If you absolutely must do something to sleep at night, just change the oil filter after 1000 miles and top off the shortfall of engine oil.
Anything more than the above is wasting oil at best, removing add'l break-in lubricants at worst.
So you're trying to say that changing the oil earlier than 10K mi is going to affect your warranty claim?
No thanks. I'll change at reasonable intervals.
Remember the company is in the business of selling new cars and service on the ones they've already sold. If they are given extra care they last longer; fewer car sales if customers return to your brand.
>removing add'l break-in lubricants at worst.
And what are those "add'l break-in lubricants" and please be specific when you list them. Any tribologists will have that answer readily at hand. LOL
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
presuming there is no restriction in the air intake, and there is no obvious hose issues and no CEL/codes...
i'd probably consider the following:
a). Faulty MAF (mass airflow sensor)
b). Faulty Engine Temp Sensor
c). Bad Catalytic Convertor (if clogged for example)
d). Bad 02 sensor(s)
e). A sticking fuel injector
i'm not sure how you'd go about diagnosing each of these, but i'd research it. perhaps an independent shop would be willing to swap some stuff for you with you tracking your MPG before and after.
if they'd been hooking your vehicle up to scanners and running diagnostics, looking for sensors in the nominal range, ask how they'd diagnose a bad/defective catalytic convertor.
have they ruled out the possibility that your parking brake is not fully disengaging or you may have a stuck caliper? with the vehicle up and in neutral (for front wheels), do all spin without resistance? after driving and stopping does one wheel feel specially hot?
LESS FREQUENTLY means not as often. So, yes, if you change LESS FREQUENTLY (i.e. not as often) then you can void your warranty. I did not say changing more freqently would void your warranty.
That question was answered in general terms by several of the earlier posters. I gave you the benefit of the doubt that you were truly looking for answers instead of an argument. No, not "any tribologist" will have that answer readily at hand. [Before you ask, I am not a tribologist, but I am a mechanical engineer that designs machinery (gears, bearings, hydraulic power and control systems, etc.) and I specify the lubricants used in assembly and maintenance of those systems, using those lubricants as the lubricant mfr recommends.] You would have to know specifically what assembly lubricants Honda uses, and what oil is used to fill the case at the factory. I don't, and I don't need to know. I only need to know what the mfr recommends and maybe why. You've been given that info. If you need more than that, you should review the shop manual in case it is given in the rebuild section, or contact Amer Honda.
So until someone comes up with a real reason the oil is special, noone seems to know. So I'll change mine when I feel it's ready to be changed, 7.5k or 10k miles meaning nothing other than the manual suggests it. I recall the days everyone was told they could only have their oil changed at the dealer of that brand and they could only use that brand's oil filter and other replacement parts...
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
1. Transmission problems appear to be endemic to the previous generation Odyssey. I'm unaware of indications that Honda hasn't fixed this problem with the current generation.
2. The humming/droning issue appears to be either a) highly subjective (most don't hear a thing) and/or b) fairly uncommon. Honestly, we've got nearly 25k miles on our '06 and I have NO idea what humming/droning noise other people are hearing. Maybe I'm just not very sensitive.
3. Sliding door malfunctions - also appear to be sporatic. I think the mechanism is more prone to dirt gumming up the works than it should be and the sliders could have been better integrated into the body. We had an early issue with a noisy slider but it was caused to dirt buildup in the mechanism (we've since had no issues) BUT, I think virtually all minivan makes report SOME problems with their sliders. Are any of these truely trouble-free?
4. Power steering problems? What power steering problems?
How many other failures are out there that don't hit the forums? That's a big unknown...but the simple fact is something that is a major problem will show up in many other places (the evening news...recalls...TSB's). And this applies to every brand out there, not just Honda.
It's fairly well known that earlier Honda transmissions were problematic. How do we know? Honda recalled/extended the warranty on them and tried to make it right. Dodge has done this with their transmissions as well. So have many others. I've read of quite a few problems on here and overall have had nothing to complain about with my Ody in 13 months/13k miles.
After charging the battery I took the van to a local Honda dealer who checked the battery and showed me that it was fine. One service tech told me leaving the sliding door open would not put a drain on the battery, while a second tech told me it would.
I guess it does.
Many other vehicles have had this feature for years. My 1996 Caravan has this and it has saved me a discharged battery a few times over the years.
I've never left a door open, so I feel the battery saver offered by other manufacturers is better. Honda missed that one, but they do have some form of battery saver.
IMHO, the door being left open could be reporting to the computer that it's open. That may have been enough to drain the battery. The doors work completely seperate from the keyed ignition, so there is always power to them. I'm just guessing, but it's obvious leaving the door open must have drained the battery. Now if it happens with the doors shut...then it must be something else.
Gotta agree with you. On three separate occassions I've gone out to the garage and discovered that the kids had turned on EVERY one of the interior dome lights. I don't know WHY overhead lights are so much fun for 4 and 6 year olds to mess with.
Why Honda's 'battery saver' ONLY works on the overhead dome lights with the doors open is a mystery to me.