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Comments
Thanks in advance!
The impact wrenches can easily go 2 to 3 times that.
And bubba always has them on high. He has never had a problem.
Out here at the World's largest Toyota dealer, they use Mobil 5W-30.
I've had mine changed twice with Blackstone Analysis each time, and there were no problems.
I became concerned when all the talk of gelling started and was all set to go to Mobil 1. Called the tech at Blackstone, and to my surprise, he advised against it, saying that the regular Dino oil was better at carrying the problems that cause the gelling to the filter where they can be removed. So, I kept the straight Dino oil ( Mobil ) in there just to see what will happen next time.
What was your percentage of insolubles? It should be <0.6%. On my last test, the figure was 0.4% at 4200 miles on the oil.
Don't sweat the high silicon levels. Mine were 255 and 52 repectfully, and I expect them to drop much lower the next test.
Try Blackstone next time. Only costs 20 dollars.
What to do? Unless you check the torque yourself, the next best thing would be to request they check each one with a torque wrench, and not rely on the torque rods they use with an air impact wrench.
This Toyota service was at Ourisman Fairfax Toyota in Fairfax, VA, where even the most simple items (like lug torque) were done incorrectly.
5759 of 5763 Re: Rotors and Brakes by wcp May 17, 2002 (04:30 pm)
I read it from somewhere that incorrect torquing of the wheel lugnuts would warp the rotors. The pneumatic tools many mechanics use are especially easy to cause this problem. Is this true?
Is your dealer Longo? I'm originally from S. Calif but didn't have a Toyota until long after I moved east. Dealer here recommends 10-30 as our summers are hot and extremely humid.
My dealer actually did the first analysis for me after I talked to the service manager about getting it done so I was just assuming the cost would be around $25-30. I'll find out for sure with the next one. I don't see an insolubles as a percentage unless it is the line showing TBN (D2896) which is shown as .5 (but not a %). I also became concered when the postings about sludge and the special policy started and decided to get the test done to know the facts about my HL rather than assuming things were worse or better than they really were. I love the vehicle and would buy another one today...I also have a silver one ;-)
On my ordered gray limited custom highlander mats, the front floor mat seems to have a defect. Around the edge of the mat is a 1 inch trim that borders the mat. On my right front floor mat, the border stops short on the top right corner leaving the corner without the border. This is my second pair like this. Could you please check to see if this is a design flaw or have I just gotten two sets that a both wrong.
I tried to email you a photo to show how to reattach the bottom of the leather, but your email address in the profile here is no long active, or at least that's what the return said. If you would like to see the photo, please email me (gwkiser@yahoo.com) and I'll be happy to send it out.
Did you ever get those leather door panels fixed?
Looking forward to your reply,
seemomgo in OK
There is no TBN on my two test results from Blackstone. Maybe that is an extra charge item; I'm not sure. The tech said that what I needed to know about the gelling problem would show up under the insolubles, and that mine was fine, as it was below 0.06%.
Blackstone has a website: www.blackstone-labs.com/
There are many other site available also, but this one has a place that can answer FAQ.
They will send you out a free test kit, which you use and mail back with a check for $18.50. After that, they mail you two kits with your name and address already printed on the labels. Sounds like they like the business. Refreshing, no?
Tip: Tell the nosey type at the P.O. that it is a soil sample or it'll cost you twice as much for postage! I paid over $3.00 the first time because it had to go into some different packaging that the P. O. clerk 'said' was necessary. The next time, I told them when they asked, that it was dirt.
Excellent choice is color BTW. And like you, I'd buy another in a nano-second. Finest running vehicle I've ever had.
I have had my 2001 Highlander for eleven months now, and have over 16,000 miles on it. Like pdalpsher and silverhlltd, I would buy another one...in fact, I would not hesitate to do so. It has been a great vehicle for me. The only problem I had to address through warranty was the Homelink system in the visor appartently shorted out...even the little light went out. So, the service manager checked it, determined it did need replacing, and I had a replacement very quickly....I consider that a very minor issue (by the way, they simply replaced the entire visor...it was a very quick change out).
In mixed driving, both highway/freeway and around town, I average about 20.5 MPG, although on long trips I have gotten well over 25 at times. For my needs, it has plenty of "get up and go" and I have found the V-6 220 horse power to come in handy during freeway merges and related needs for prompt accelaration (my last car was a 4 cyl Honda Accord...which was a little under powered for me, but I do have about a three or four mile 7% grade that I have to travel over to work and back as well as some other hilly roads).
I continue to be very happy with my Highlander.
Ron
open the small square cap behind the door release lever(another screw will be found there, now the hard part; the piece of plastic that surrounds the door release lever has to come out, carefully with a small and thin flat head screwdriver pry up and out above the locking button and below the handle pivot point. it's only going to move slightly out because behind this cup there's a L plastic piece that also holds it in place. so pull outwards and towards the front.
then Pry out the snaps around the edges of the panel (10 or so) and the door is ready to come out.
lift the panel up and then out, and quick-disconnect harness for the wires for the door switches and the courtesy lights.
thats it.
hope this helps
I'm looking for caster (which is typically not adjustable on front wheel drive cars), camber and toe in. The setting would be expressed in degrees or inches. There is a preferred setting and an acceptable range, usually with a maximum of left to right amount. My 2002 hl is going back to the dealer on Thursday for a pull to the left, and I'm concerned that the caster is out. Why I don't know, but it has been re-aligned once already.
I also am experiencing vibration at about 70 mph and above, and the tires have been re-balanced, and the car only has 5,500 miles on it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
they have a real big acceptable range of front settings for warranty work, different from specs for customer paid work and allow a big viariation between front wheels. I had to get an independant mech to fix mine
i had the same thing in 1993 with my dodge, but i didn't expect it in 2002 and with a $30,000 hl or a toyota dealer. please advise. thanks.
Find a shop that has Hunter equipment, and the personel who knows how to use it properly.
See:http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/product.htm
Specifically, you need the GSP 9700 system. You can go to their site and use their locater to find where there is a shop that has the equipment that is the best there is for solving your balancing problems.
Do you have steel wheels or the alloys. Reason for asking: There was a chap up North that had steel wheels, and one was out-of-round. The dealer had worked on it more than once, but stated that they were balanced correctly and they probably were, but IF they are not round, they will act like they aren't balanced. Read all about how that machine works, and you'll be able to understand how and what is needed to properly balance a wheel and tire combination. This balancer tells the operator how to mount the wheel and the tire so their sweat spots are together. This guy up North also had a bad factory tire from GY, so putting a bad tire on a out-of-round wheel spelled trouble.
To bad you not located near one of Hunter's training centers. If you were, it is sometimes possible to get the work done gratis if you can leave your car so that they have a vehicle to use for training.
Concerning the alignment specifications, mine is a 2001.
Am I correct in assuming that those specs would be the same for either year? If so, I have 'em.
Good luck!
I brought all of the postings on this forum and also from the yahoo forum to try and show the toyota rep that this is not an isolated problem and that the port installed leather seems to be a ongoing problem.
I wonder if that gets any further than se toyota, in other words does this info get to main toyota headquarters and what does it take before they make a design change on this seat cover attachment.
Does the factory installed leather have this problem, or is there no factory installed leather?
Earl
Upon reaching 78mph, there was a whistling noise emitted from the top of the windshield area not unlike when one would blow air across a soda bottle.
Is anyone else experiencing this problem, and if so what was done to correct it. The service mgr told me this was a design flaw and there was nothing he could do??? Is this correct??Help!!!
Thanks,
Earl
if any participant has had asignment problems, could you plesae post the type of problem, and the solution. thanks.
2. easy, only remember using a screwdriver.
3. I got mine at the dealer with a 20% off coupon they provided in my thank you / welcome package.
I'd recommend a toyota one over a third-party. None that I've seen looks as good on the car as Toyota's does. After you install the protector, reinstall the rubber from the underside of the hood as it will continue to protect and do its job. You use 1 or 2 of the connection points to install the hood protector, and the rubber will reinstall just fine.
I cannot believe that dealers are so quick to say "a design problem." I bet Toyota frowns on that excuse.
I hope this helps.
Happy HL'ing to all.
Have your dealer look up TSB NVO12-01
Title is "Wind noise at 'A' pillar"
Dated November 30, 2001
Front door weather strips, left and right, were changed in accordance with this bulletin and the noises went away on my vehicle.
Old part number 67861-48020 rh
67862-48020 lh
New part ends in 21 instead of 20
Warranty covered this change at no cost.
This noise was most noticeable when gusty wind conditions were present and speeds were 50 mph or above.
It has been 3 months since I had them changed, peace and quiet now...
1. I always change my oil every 3000 miles and do it myself. Should a first oil change be done before 3000 miles.
2. Waxing- do i need to wait a few weeks before waxing the vehicle?
Thanks very much.
I'm in the Gulf States area. My service rep. has offered to change the seat cover, but it sounds like that won't solve the problem.
He then told me they've never heard of a seat cover coming untucked and made me feel like it was my problem! I'm very disappointed with Toyota's service.
If you still have those posting about the leather coming untucked, would you mind e-mailing them to me or posting the message numbers? I've tried using the search feature to find them but haven't had any luck. I'd like to show them it's not my problem!
Thanks, seemomgo
But I've looked at many sites on the internet and it seems like the programming for the RS3000 and RS3200 don't work, and those say they are for cars without the keyless entry. So I guess that the RS3000/3200 is not installed in my vehicle.
So what the heck do I have and what options are there? I want to have the ignition controlled locks (lock the doors when start, unlock when turn off ignition), and passive arming (30 seconds after everything closed it will lock up). Can I do this with whatever is already in there?
Also what exactly is the "prewire for alarm" option -- I have it on the MSRP sticker and it is all over Toyota's brochures, but of course you don't get any info with the vehicle about what the pins are and/or where they are located. I am really temped to put in an after market alarm system (since it would be better for the money), but I don't want someone who doesn't know about my car and that barely knows how to use a multimeter messing up my electrical system. Since I have the engine disable system (fat keys) I'm not sure how that works either.
Thanks in advance for any/all alarm experiences.
If you would like to enhance the alarm you already have, you can add the "glass breakage sensor", an item which, as the name implies, "listens" for the frequencies associated with the sound of breaking glass.
Regarding the keys, only the factory keys will work. Each key has a chip embedded in it which corresponds to that vehicle only. While you may be able to go to the neighborhood hardware store and have a new key cut (that WILL open the doors and turn the ignition), it WILL NOT start the vehicle. Trust me, you do not want to lose a key. I just did and the replacement costs around $200, including a new fob.
As far a delayed/passive arming, I believe this is available to you and the dealer should be able to set this up for you. Regarding the ignition controlling the locks, I'm not sure that's an available feature. Again, I would let the dealer look into this for you.
Good luck.
As long as you drive it smart, you shouldn't have any problems with moderate offroading.
Thanks a lot.
RS3200 is for vehicles without factory keyless entry, RS3200 plus is for a vehicle with factory keyless entry, they both have a myriad of programming options. Again, neither of these apply to the Limited's factory installed alarm.
i'll check again this weekend, but am wondering if i should be concerned enough to go back and argue about it.
rap