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I have tried 92 octane several times, both in my previous "00" and the 01. I saw no discernable difference, Mileage or performance. I expected to see some "boost" in long distance travel over multiple mountain passes but didn't notice any. Did my own calculations, not OBC.
Yes, as a matter of fact! You can find it here:
Town Hall New Look!
tidester, host
Things I have noticed.
1) the service manual does not say anything about the oil pan drain plug and what the procedure is for changing the oil. I had to guess at the torque setting for the drain plug.
2) The oil filter that came with the car is different than the one Toyota sells in their parts dept. The "made in Japan" filter has different internal construction than the "made in USA version".
3) the drain plug washer on the vehicle is metal. Both sides have a very thin coating to seal the pan. The replacement washer Toyota sells is a fibre washer.
Anyway - I have put in 5 qts of 5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil.
On a side note, I love the vehicle, runs great, plenty of power, room, etc, etc....but, the brake pedal DOES take some getting used to....kinda "spongy".
03bluestone - did you use a filter wrench and a long bar?
I had changed my oil on Sunday - and noticed the filter wasn't the same as the one on the vehicle (it was the same size, but the oil seal was black not orange like the Japanese one).
I went to Toyota tonight and showed them the box (part number) they gave me - it was wrong. They gave me the proper one - which is made in Japan and has an orange oil seal, and the internals are identical.
I have only driven 50 miles on the wrong filter - hopefully it hasn't done any damage. I am swapping the filter tonight after the engine cools down.
Still haven't found any reference in the service manual on what the drain plug torque spec should be ?
We are soon going to purchase a 2003 V6 AWD Highlander and are wondering about the optional equipment on your HL and you likes/dislikes/wish I had/hadn't purchased this extra. Curious to know opinions on: Appearance Pkge, Preferred or Convenience. Finally, any input on the Vehicle Skid would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
http://www.toyotaguys.com/peroilfiltrd.html
They claim "...traps more damaging particles than ordinary oil filters, yet provides lower resistance to oil."
Anyone have an opinion on these filters?
Ken
Michelin Arctic Alpins were one noted great tire in snow on this board. You can do a search at bottom of page full of messages on snow tires and get lots of older feedback on how things have gone for others.
First, unpacked snow is not a real challenge for a competent and conservative (throttle finesse)driver of ANY vehicle with more than two wheels, RWD, FWD, AWD and 4WD. And the colder that unpacked snow becomes the closer it begins to "handle" like that beach sand.
It's when that snow gets packed down to/with a slippery layer, or thawed and re-frozen overnight, or an icy surface of any kind that things become dicey.
Ford Escape. Here's the deal, none of us here have any real idea how much you rely, have relied, on the Escape's AWD system. While I would never say that the Escape is a better vehicle than the HL, overall, I will say that the Ford AWD system is much more functional than the Toyota system.
With the exception of being normally FWD, only, the Escape AWD system, in "auto" mode, is sort of a knockoff of the old Ford Aerostar system. If the system senses a disparate rotational rate front vs rear it automatically locks the center diff'l. After a period of time it will unlock and if it then again senses disparate rates it locks the center diff'l, etc, etc.
As you undoubtedly know, you can also lock the center diff'l manually, but you should never do that on high traction surfaces.
Bottom line is that the Ford Escape AWD system is perfectly capable of getting you through most on-road adverse weather conditions you will encounter. And, unlike the HL and Rx you are not restricted to using snowchains ONLY on the front and thereby risking your life.
The HL and RX are absolutely perfect AWD vehicles for those that feel they need AWD in high traction conditions, they undoubtedly deliver the goods in that circumstance.
The problem is, once any wheel begins to slip, the very instant that wheel begins to slip, you have a one wheel drive system. Unless you bought the rear LSD and it is a rear wheel that's slipping.
In order to keep the manufacturing expense and mechanical complexity of their AWD system low, Toyota settled for what many experts call a "simple hack" for use as AWD for the HL and RX.
Find a shop manual for the Chrysler T&C AWD minivan and read the description of their AWD system and then do the same for the HL or RX.
With the HL and RX the instant a wheel begins to slip the torque distribution ratio F/R is 95/5. If slippage persists for many seconds then the ratio can increase to as much as 75/25 F/R.
If I were you I would buy an extended warranty for the Escape.
As for the VSC, mine has engaged a number of times during "sliding" turns in snow and in slick curves. The most appreciated engaging, was in areas of "black ice", where even better tires would not have mattered. It will help straighten a vehicle, but as ToyotaKen has stated, "nothing will overcome the laws of physics". From experience, I do believe it is beneficial.
Ken
I don't have the rear LSD.
Simply amazing performance from a ONE-WHEEL-DRIVE vehicle!
It's what you do, how you use, distribute that traction amongst/against the available fores that makes the difference.
I visited a guy in the hospital once. They had him in TRACTION. He was in a BED.
His accident was on a ROAD. And his car was TOTALLED.
Hmmm...
Sometimes steeply inclined railbeds don't have enough driven wheel(s) "traction" to pull the train's weight up the incline. Lack of HP or torque? NO, not enough "iron to iron" contact "patch"!
AWD simply serves to more evenly (at least in an Escape)distribute the motive forces across all available roadbed adhesion surfaces.
There's the X5 at the top.
And the HL and RX the bottom.
Give a competent and experienced driver both an AWD HL(,RX) with VSC and a FWD HL(,RX) with VSC, equally equipped, on the same ice and packed snow course and the times turned in will be so close as to be negligible, down in the grass.
Unless the driver knows the T/L AWD system and does several long "burn-outs" to stiffen up the always flaccid VC before beginning the run.
I finally had the OilSpot guys remove it. They used a large channel lock type wrench from below and finally broke the filter loose after over 10 minutes of trying. (It was crushed pretty good by the removal). I plan on using the cap-type wrench with a socket wrench on it to remove it from the top while the manifold is cool. Then only hand-tighten the Toyota brand replacement at 3000 mile intervals.
And by-the-way, the system that you tout as the best AWD system in the marketplace, the X5, I've had stuck trying to get up an icy driveway with a 5% grade with snow tires while a corolla had no problem getting up that same driveway.
I apoligize for my ranting here, but please understand that I just want to make clear that the statements made by wwest are unsubstantiated by ANY other Highlander owner that I am aware of.
Ken
Lexus' motto is the "Passionate Pursuit of Perfection", not that I put any great faith in that, but why do you think the RX330 is coming out with a "clone" of the ML's AWD system?
And I would think that given that the ML/RX330 AWD system is so much more capable, less expensive and complex to manufacture, that the HL wouldn't be far behind in adopting that same system.
By the way, I live in Ottawa, ON Canada and we get our fare share of snow and cold conditions and the one negative I have about the Highlander has to do with the heating system. In cold weather (32F to -20F) it takes around 5 to 10 minutes for the heater air to get warm and then I generally have to set the somewhat noisy fan to either position 2 or 3 in order to kept the interior at a comfortable setting. My previous Honda Accord had a much better heating system and I normally kept the fan speed at position 1. I don't know where Toyota did there winter testing, but the heating system could use some improvement.
When I bought my first RX I was told that the torque ratio was 70/30 F/R but would adjust to 50/50 under slipping conditions. I had previously owned two Jeep Cherokee Limiteds, an 85 and then a 92, both with RWD, AWD, and 4WD modes.
I wasn't long before I began to think something about the RX just wasn't quite right. So I took it out onto a wet muddy back road. It didn't "act" like the AWD mode in my Jeep at all. So I started looking into why that might be.
What I discovered was that Lexus had compromised the design of the VC so heavily that it was basically non-functional.
Then the 01 RX came out with VSC/Trac. The Trac was touted as being used in the same manner as the ML AWD system.
NOT!!
The VSC aspect does work, the Trac function does not. I have come to suspect that the ABS pump doesn't have enough capacity, or overheats too quickly, to be used in this manner.
But for each of you out there reading this, it is up to you, solely, to judge this information's usefulness to you, individually.
If you have already purchased one of these vehicles, just as I have, then this information is certainly of less use. But for those of you still in the decision making stage, simply make what use of this information you think is justified.
I've already placed my order for the RX330, fully expecting that like the sludge issue, some of these posts adverse to the VC "simple hack" type AWD have gotten the message across.
And I would wager a goodly amount that the RX330 will have snowchain ability on the rear.
The front wheels are important to have chains because you need to steer and brake.
About the HL AWD not being good. As I have said - I floored the gas pedal in my AWD highlander while on loose dirt and all 4 wheels made a divot from digging in. I also drove on the beach last weekend and didn't have a problem - all the wheels were driving - worked like a charm.
I'm just curious after all the negative press you've given the RX/HL over the same issue.
If it were I'd likely be driving a Jeep liberty today. Something about BMW arrogance (and teh non-matching dash and steering wheel) just doesn't let me go "there".
Even the LS430 has some serious deisgn flaws that could easily be overcome but were I in the market for that "class" of vehicle it would still be my first choice as best, overall.
Life is a compromise, get over it, move on!
But compromising doesn't have to mean closing one's eyes and throwing a dart.
Get thee to the nearest tire shop that sells studs for tires and have them explain why they refuse to put studs on ONLY the front of FWD vehicles.
nimrod,
This doesn't sound right to me. Everything I have ever heard on this subject says to never put chains on the front only, regardless of FWD, AWD, or RWD. With RWD you can get away with chains on the rear only as many have done for years.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
But agreed, it would/could be much worse with FWD or AWD with predominant engine torque bias to the front.
So, here's a scenario:
If I take my FWD non/TC '93 Honda Accord and my AWD non/VSC Highlander to an icy parking lot (which can be found easily in the South today). I put the front wheels of each vehicle on an icy patch with the rears on dry pavement, stomp on the gas, what happens? I assume that the Accord will sit and spin. Now after reading some of the technical explanations HL's center VC, I assume that the VC will "lock" and direct torque to the rears allowing the HL to pull itself forward (50/50 split)?
Or, will the "open" system just expend all of the torque to the front thus having the same result as the Accord (90/10 split)?
Ken
Even with the mediocre factory rubber, the traction was pretty good (had to be, as my friend was not going out to blow out his driveway until after the storm).
Comments:
-somebody at Toyota should drive this car before they sell it. The high-beam indicator light is bloody BLINDING at night. OK for your typical suburbanite Californian (for whom high beams are probably a mystery) but not for driving country roads after dark. Cruise control indicator is too bright as well, and neither responds to the instrument dimmer control
-radio controls are not well located if you want to change volume or channel while keeping eyes front
-decent heater. a bit hard to get both feet and upper body comfy at the same time though.
-aerodynamic design cleverly funnels salt-laden spray over the side windows just about where you need to see out to the rear view mirrors
-great having a 5 L washer fluid reservoir. Went through 4 containers during the trip
-good fuel economy considering the speeds I was going. Around 9.5 l/100 km or so most of the time
-good stability in crosswinds next to trucks.
-sorry.. no opportunity to test moose resistance!
I am having a real hard time deciding between the 4 or 6 cylinder. Here in the land of soon to be Kyoto driven fuel costs, $1 a litre gas is seemingly just around the corner. While I am not crazy about the 4s performance (compared to the 6) it is okay and I can live with it. I don't see the need for AWD, have had my FWD van for 8 years and have a RWD truck. We get plenty of snow but never stuck yet.
My biggest problem with the 4 cylinder is even though it is a Toyota, that is one relatively small engine pulling a relatively heavy vehicle. I am worried about long term reliability (keep my vehicles for about 10 years or 200,000km)
Has anyone run up the miles on one of the 4s? What have they been like?
The only thing I ever intent to pull would be a small tent trailer. Would appreciate comments
Hopefully you'll never be able to report the Moose resistance.
You could try installing a resistor in the light circuit, but that of course is easier said than done. What do you guys think about the tiny low fuel indicator and the way Toyota skimped on the window control lights? Fortunately for me, I rarely use the cruise control or high beams (at least on purpose). Anyone find the cruise control and high beam switches in the way when wearing gloves?
BTW, you would think Toyota would know by now that the radio goes above the climate control.
A couple of other negatives:
-stalk controls really don't seem intuitive at all. Maybe if your other car is a Camry..
-really marginal seats. I am big, but the pressure on my legs causes really bad pain after more than 2 h in the saddle. I wonder if I could snag a couple of Volvo seats out of a wreck?
If the rest of the car weren't so nice I would not feel obligated to whine about these details. My other car is a BMW E36, and it has far fewer annoying traits (but still has marginal seats)
I rented a Hyundai Santa Fe last year for a long trip through New Mexico, Arizona and Central California, and the seats were QUITE comfortable, and it seemed to me that the ergonomics were, in general, better. Did not drive nearly as smoothly, though. And we never experienced a -35C wind chill, either.
Cheers
Does the AWD have much more fluid to warm up?
2. The airbag dash light comes on when very cold and will not go off until shutting off engine. The dealer found code fault on computer and reset everything and found no problems otherwise but said they have seen this before and Toyota is checking it out.
3. When very cold, we hear a high pitched whine between 45 and 60mph....of course dealer could not duplicate the day we brought it in (it was warmer) Anyone have any clues?
By the way, we had thedreaded wind noise thru the passenger door when driving into strong winds. Had the dealer replace the seals per the TSB and since then we have had no noise there, even with very strong winds.