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Comments
Pardon me for asking, but why, exactly, is that a big deal? It seems reasonable to me.
tidester, host
4 cyl 2wd is 3500 lbs
If you think the V6 is heavy and slow - why would you get a 4 cyl?
Any ideas?
thanks
Driving the same road to work and back daily, mileage given by the onboard computer went up about 1/2 mpg. It's an 11 mile trip over country roads, gaining about 1500' and "enduring" 2 stop signs and 3 lights. For the past few months mileage was consistantly 19.1 at the end of the day (lower going up to work, higher coming home). It is now consistantly 19.7 mpg avg. I haven't ever checked how accurate the onboard computer is for mpg, but the 1/2 mpg gain would be accurate I think, even if the absolute numbers aren't perfect. Of course, the gasoline savings won't be enough to pay the increased cost of the oil. I'm not sure yet whether I'll run extended drain intervals or not, as any engine warranty problems would then turn into an argument of whether or not the oil change interval was the cause.
Also, using "avg mpg", does anyone know how many miles is used for that "average"? It can't be averaging until reset as it changes too frequently for that. I'm guessing 30 or 50 miles but thought toyotaken or wwest might know the actual mileage used.
karp7, I leave my climate control on auto (with a/c), and here in WI, it's been on heat for months. Watching the little arrows, it's always on floor heat, unless I specifically punch up the defroster. Together with the seat warmers, it's very comfortable. And there are visible heat vents/ tubes that appear under the front seats to push heat to the back. We've had no problems with our passengers or baby that rides in her car seat.
Cabin air temperature is typically less than half the human comfort equation.
In the wintertime, especially at night, with the huge amount of glass greenhouse effects in modern day vehicles, radiant cooling effects can sometimes become so dominant a factor that cabin air temperature must be raised another 10F to bring the equation into balance.
Wonder what it was - any inputs folks ? Thanks in advance.
Ken
Thanks anyway !
Also, the snow/ice can adher to the backside of the wheel - most of us do not notice buildup there as much as on frontside of wheels as we approach vehicle. Just a few thoughts, Dan
Also, can someone explain the ECT Snow botton on the shift gear? I assume in gave me some traction in the snow. Every time it snow a good amount I press it.
Steve, Host
A lot of people think their brakes are "broken" when they start feeling their brake pedal grinding/crunching when ABS takes over. Don't worry - it's normal.
I may need to be corrected, but the ECT is primarily for starting off in deep snow. Once you get going you can probably turn it off. Fortunately, I've never had a need to use it - even in 18+ inches of snow in Vermont (AWD V6). I guess I need to read the manual too
Also, thank for the feedback on the ECT button.
Also, thank for the feedback on the ECT button.
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/driving/articles/43814/article.h- tml
Also - for ECT - read the manual for more info
If what you need to do is stop in a straight ahead fashion and in the process your vehicle itself doesn't "want" to skid sideways then ABS will almost always be a detriment.
"Be that as it may" until something better comes along ABS is the best compromise for most modern day vehicles. Depress the brake firmly and constantly for best braking activity.
Some ECT systems simply cause the automatic transmission to start up in second gear instead of first, and others actually modify the engine's torque curve, as in the 2000 GS300.
Something better: I expect that one day soon the VSC system will get "hooked", integrated, into the ABS system such that ABS will not activate unless VSC indicates that the vehicle is not following the proscribed line.
Some drivers forget that ABS allows them to continue steering the car, since the front wheels aren't locked up. Often, drivers successfully avoid an obstacle in the road by yanking on the steering wheel, but to their surprise the car actually responds, and the turn of the steering wheel that avoids the obstacle in the road ends up putting the vehicle off the road, where it sometimes crashes."
So that may be something to check out...
Ken
It has been proven in automobile racing and other formalized tests that a locked-up tire does NOT stop (or aid maneuvering)a vehicle as well as a tire that is just a the edge of adhesion loss(lock-up). Being a ex-racer of both Formula-based race cars (SCCA) and oval racing I can attest that 99.99% of race AND normal drivers can NOT modulate a brake system to reduce lock-up as effectively as a computer-based system.
If ABS is legal in a racing division - ALL the racers will have it working! Only a FEW race drivers in all of the world('Rainmeisters' they are jokingly called)can effectively modulate brakes to outperform ABS and they normally are NOT trying to come to a stop; they are comfortable slidding a vehicle to change direction and maintain momentum - not a good practice for all of us to try at the same time on streets!
In snow/ice/water conditions we humans can not modulate FOUR separate tire adhesion points with any accuracy in comparison to a braking system that determines lock-up at EACH corner of the vehicle multiple times per second. Each corner/tire adhesion point of the vehicle has dynamically changing vehicle weight (weight shift, pavement undulations, changing adhesion of pavement, etc) during the stopping process.
ABS is a life-saving feature for the NORMAL driver; one who is not specially trained in vehicle dynamics, etc. Some of us think we are 'Mario Andretti', but few of us are!
Without ABS in a true PANIC situation; most drivers tend to lock-up one or more wheel/tires and lengthen their stopping distance in comparison to ABS; therefore ABS is NOT a detriment to these normal drivers!
All this being said, ABS (nor a highly skilled driver) can overcome laws of nature/physics. If you drive too fast for conditions, the available tire adhesion (to stop or turn) may not be enough to overcome the momentum you have already 'given' to your vehicle. Normally an immovable object slows us down faster than tire adhesion, or we slid to a rest with perspiration on our browse!
I personally test available adhesion when I am in difficult driving situation. Try your ABS in a empty parking lot or on a empty road(with no other autos around) to see how your ABS works. Then you will be more comfortable in your own vehicles stopping/manuevering characteristics before you need them in a panic situation.
Drive carefully and keep the rubber side down! Dan
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It is my understanding that it has now been proven, time and again, that on low traction conditions locking the tires will always result in a quicker stop.
I have always contended that is really needed is a driving simulator, very much like the ones used to teach commercial pilots what to do in the event of a failure or some type of emergency not readily replicable in the real world.
Learning to drive is of itself a relatively simple task, learning how to react properly to the unexpected is yet another thing.
We first got the 4Runners and Tacomas out. The Runners did fantastic. The VSC and torsen center did a great job. The Tacomas did well also. We used a Runner with a locked center differential and low range to pull out a number of Corollas and Camrys.
Finally, we got to the Highlanders. I didn't expect them to make it. The 2 wheel drive ones didn't without a tow rope attached. The AWD models made it with little more fuss than the Runners. It behaved just as one should expect and made an uneventful exit. VERY cool.
Re: Post #7902
Impossible!!
Sincerely,
wwest
Improbable, but not impossible, especially coming from such an unbiased source.
WWEST....The REAL WWEST.
Please include in your post the model of vehicle you own, ie. 4 or 6 cylinder engine and 2WD or AWD. Thanks very much!
I'll start this off by listing my experience: 20.3 MPG on first tank with 4cyl 2WD in mixed city/highway driving (hoping for better later when road conditions improve :-) ).
The first tank got 21.7 MPG, the second tank was 23.5 MPG. Third tank = ?
with 50 city/50 hwy each tank is 23.7 to 25,3
very satisfied with gas prices climbing
My wife's 2001 & my 2002 H/L Limited 2WD V-6 both average 22.7 city and 25.7 highway.
The 2001 has about 13,000 miles and 2002 has about 8,000 miles.
We are very happy both H/L's and very happy with the mileage we get.
I should note, we live in Phoenix Az so the driving terrain is flat. I'm would think that mountains, snow ect.. would effect the mileage.
Best Regards, Phil
18 to 22 MPG overall
18 to 19 for usual mix of city/urban expressway
20 to 22 for sustained highway only