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The local dealer has checked the front and rear differentials and the transfer case. All fluids have been changed. There were no metal shavings anywhere.
I would not worry about it...unless you have lots of $$ to spend on replacing all the driveline joints that have loosened up over the miles. (CV-joints, U-joints, bearings, gears, xfer-case chain, front/rear diff....etc.) If you add up all the places where things can get "loose" that can mean a lot of "slop" in the driveline.
Heck, my 2000 make joting sounds in 2wd in first gear if I am not tender with the throttle. Just letting off the throttle in 1st gear will "slop" the driveline forward. (Expected of a manual xmission with 100K miles on it.)
The local Dodge Dealer can find nothing wrong!!!
I will never buy another Dodge product....
Ahh - But if the politicians have their way, your grandkids may be owning some part GM, Ford, and Dodge - (The reason I say "grandkids" is becasue politicians have already spent any money they will get from you, I and our kids by 'bailing out' the banks. The politicians are now working on spending taxes collected in 2020.)
Complaints of poor quality rotors was a problem from 2000-2003. Of course you went 49,000 miles between your second and third replacement. Without knowing how you drive, that could be very resonable. But poor rotor longevity complaints are common on many trucks. The Nissan Titan is definitately the worse I've ever seen.
Wheel bearing problems are not very common on Dakotas.
The blower motor resistor failing is..or was a problem on your vintage, but it also sounds like you did not get a good diagnois all the time and probably not a reliable repair, either. The blower switches, I've not heard of one failure in all these years. They changed the blower resistor design a while ago and the new ones are good. If you're still having a problem the quality of the repair is suspect.
Not making excuses for your Dodge, but mine has been very reliable and I've got 113,000 miles on mine. At least as reliable as any Chevy or Ford, and probably better in most respects. Of the dozen or so people I know with Dakotas, none of them are unhappy. It's unfortunate you've had issues, but in the last year every Canyon/Colorado I know of has had a cylinder head replaced at least once, a friend with a 2007 Tacoma has his taken back under the lemon law, and dozens of Titans seem to suffer from a multitude of various problems, just for example.
It shouldn't happen, but it does, and it happens to a small percentage of each competitive brand. My Dakota would have to give me a lot more problems than yours has had in 80,000 miles before I'll ever go back to a Chevy!!
Dusty
Mebbie so... but before 90K miles, I had to replace front wheel bearing in my 2000 Dak. When on lift the front wheel would wiggle about 1/2 inch. Bearing was defanatly bad.
In 2 wheel drive there is a noise like a dry/loose bearing on the drivers side. It is directly proportional to the speed of the truck (and maybe exaggerated during breaking.) When I select 4Hi coasting at about 15 mph, allow time for it to engage then slightly accelerate, there is a severe grinding noise like bearings are getting chewed up or maybe gears not meshing. The noise is now definitely on the drivers side. I switch back to 2 wheel drive right away.
The wheel bearing assembly is good, the CV boots are intact and no leaks around the transfer case. Any thoughts on the source of the problem and the fix?
Thanks
Where is the light when in 4 wheel drive on the 98 Dakota.
The manual says it is on the shifter bezel. I don't see any light.
Matt
ISSUES
- inadvertent/random engagement/disengagement (attempts) in/out of 4wd
- clunking noises from the front drive line.
- apparent clutch slippage under load
INSPECTION DISCOVERIES
- removal of the front drive axles revealed that splines on the LF shaft and CV joint were totally destroyed (apparent source of clunking noise)
- had dealer diagnose inadvertent shifting issue - problem with electronic controls on transfer case.
- removal of the clutch revealed just normal wear no damage.
REMEDIES
- removed LF drive shaft, until I save for replacement aftermarket units and control module for transfer case. Have heard that aftermarket units are much better.
- replaced clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing
RESULTS
- clunking and grinding noises ceased
- slippage still happening (albeit less often and less severe) even with new clutch and pressure plate.
QUESTIONS
- Is there any other place in the drive-line that could produce a slippage sensation/feel?
- Does the clutch need time to wear-in and is initial (slight) slipping with a new clutch unit normal?
None the less I read a ton and narrowed this problem down to one of two things. There is a sensor in the Electric Transfer Case Shift motor, unfortunately you have to replace the entire shift motor. Or the Front Control Module(FCM) There is no Transfer Case Control Module(TCCM) on the 05, it is all controlled by the FCM.
A good friend of mine new a mechanic he has used and trusted for several years. I had him look at it and his conclusions matched mine but he was very straight forward and told me he wasn't sure which either.
I purchased the Electric Shift Motor today ($284) and went to work. NOT AN EASY TASK! you have to remove the front drive shaft, which requires removing the Exhaust Y pipe that from the best I could tell would require the one tool I don't have to re-install, WELDING.
Needless to say I have not got the new shift motor on yet, but am hoping to soon. I will let you know the outcome.
I have an '88 and they should be identical.
My 1976 power wagon 4x4 works just fine-378,000 miles-never had a 4x4 'enguage' on its own-then have some whatever....at dealer or 1-800# tell me that their responsibility is none!! must see dealer for diagnostic/fix-of coarse on my dime. B.....S...... enough said
Dealer will 'try' to reprogram the 4x4 module-want to sell you a new one! Then they will attempt to sell you an encoder motor...more$ So after they throw all these new parts at it at your expense-more than likely the problem will become a fart in the wind-gone. However, not one person I have spoken with on this matter that is of any substence, Ex: Qualified tech , can nail this issue down to any one component! All in agreement are singing to the same sheet of music-DESIGN FLAW!!!! Components weren't 'dialed in together' ohms,frequency,compatibility, etc.....I have offered the local dealership service manager my keys for the weekend-see what happens....no takers-they know whats up! enough smak... dont let them pull wool over your eyes!! if there are enough of us-we can make a bigger splash in the pool vs. just one! all have a great holidays-gonna take the F150 out tonight-It's snowing-figured the boy scout motto.....be prepared-cuz the Dakato ain't hangin.VA165.
I read all sorts of negative things about the Dakota and it's v6, I just didn't realize how unreliable Dodge's still are, I just went through the Dodge forums, my God, what a mess. Deep down I think I still have something for Dodge, It must be lingering from when I was a kid...but wow, I could never own one again....I feel bad that they never could get it to gether...and why stick around and play if you can't play nice...? I guess that's a whole other story...