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Traffic was heavy into the valley, and knowing the brakes I used second gear and pumped the brakes - still they heated and as you pointed out I needed to use more pedal.
Any advice other then what I now employ - go slow, use transmssion and pump the breaks?
Thanks,
Jim
Other than that, letting the engine do the braking and letting the brakes cool off is about it.
Oh, make sure you fluid is fresh and full. that can make a difference if the fluid gets moisture in it (it effectively boils), and Honda does call for it every so often (3 years maybe?)
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I have since taken to private tire/brake center. Total replace again but still vibrating so had to take it back. He found Japanese calipers on this vehicle. Says he feels this may be an issue but he'll hang in there with me until we can get it fixed. Called Honda and all they worried about was what "restitution/compensation" I was hoping for! I told her I didn't want anything, just a car I could rely on. I simply wanted to know if this issue he found could be causing the problem.
What do you think?
If the vibration also occurs at various speeds "without" applying the brakes, then the problem sounds like something other than brakes (tire balance or alignment).
Assuming the problem only occurs while braking, there is two components that are worked on everytime you get a brake job:
1: Brake Pads: brake pads are stationary and are a soft material shaped like a candy bar. They grab the spinning rotor and slow it down when you hit the brakes.
Brake pads are designed to wear out.
2: Rotors: the rotor is a spinning piece of hard steel shaped like a dish.
When a repair shop replaces the worn brake pads, they also machine (cut) steel material off the rotors, because the constant "brake pad to rotor contact" wears deep groves into the steel rotors. By machining the rotors flat and smooth, the new brake pads will form a more perfect contact for the new brake pads.
However, here lies the problem:
After you have just two brake jobs (where they replaced the brake pads and machined the rotors), the rotors become very thin and warp (become out of round) easily causing vibration during braking.
Therefore after two brake jobs, you need to replace the rotors with new ones.
Judging by your post, you have had 4 brake jobs (Mar-08, Mar-09, Sep-09, and now). If all those brake jobs were done with the original rotors, then your rotors are "way beyond" there service life and need replacement.
I really appreciate you taking the time to respond so quickly!
My only concern would be: "is the quality of the replacement brake pads and rotors at least as good as Honda factory replacement parts?"
And if they are as good or better quality than factory, were they properly installed?
Read this brake troubleshooting web link written by a high quality manufacturer:
http://www.ebcbrakes.com/troubleshooting.shtml
In particular,
read Problem No. 3 titled "Brake Vibration (Rotor Shimmying or Brake Pulsation).
That is the new (second) revised pad design (43022=TAO-A70). The pads were revised, then revised again. There is also something about switching the calliper pins (may have been installed opposite from the factory). The new clips installed on the pads are supposed to pull the pads away from the rotor, from what I understand.
http://www.girardgibbs.com/hondabrakes.asp?_kk=honda%20accord%20brake%20problems- &_kt=72b8cce1-0fe8-4f4f-88b8-55662de96fbb&gclid=CPiPpoG2ip0CFUdM5QodLVRm2Q
Corkscrew
Also, they did come right out (after I questioned if there was a bulletin on the key fobs) and say they were replacing key fobs under warranty. Why do customers have to find out on their own regarding shoddy Honda parts? Thanks to this site for making me aware of this issue. I thought my fob battery was dead already.
I immediately proceeded to make a phone call to Honda of America with the complaint. Friendly customer service rep has listened to my problem and promised to get back to me by Friday, 4/20/10. When I inquired about Honda covering rental cost while I wait, she advised that this will not be happening and if I want, I may pick my car up and wait for the answer. I decided not to wait and launched a mini assault by submitting a complaint to the following: NHTSB, BBB, the Attorney General of Massachusetts, also I sent emails to GM and SM of the dealership accusing them in a breach of fiduciary duty to their customer.
About an hour later I received a call from SM of the dealership. He offered to provide a complimentary repair with a $100 deductible. This repair was offered at discount with a blessing of Honda of New England regional manager. I decided to do the repair. He assured me that they will use strictly updated parts.
I will try to get my $100 back from Honda of America. I might even take them to small claims court, if necessary.
They should offer 36 months no interest and a 5 year supply of brake pads.
I highly recommend for no one to buy Honda vehicles and especially at Ken Garth of Ogden.
Common for Honda cars after 150K miles.
Put the car in neutral & pump the brake pedal a few times.
The symptom will get worse when the brake fluid gets hotter.
Korchnoy - would especially appreciate receiving information regarding your contact with the NHTSB, BBB, Attorney General of Massachusetts, and dealership GM and SM.
I had ALL of my brakes and rear rotors replaced at roughly 25k with metal to metal (although I had heard the brakes at roughly 20k) and my front rotor resurfaced. [All at pepboys] The resurfacing was a big mistake, at 15k later the front rotor wrapped and I didn't have them checked at 20k. (Warranty ends at 18k)
Although the current rear rotor and rest of the brake pad seem ok, I had it checked at 48k and the wear is about 80% for the back (or maybe 70%) I had to double check.
Does that sound about right?
Also would anyone like to suggest a quality front rotor for $30-$50 each
Also looking for shocks to be replaced soon because the technicians said it is starting to leak oil. Any suggestions for that too?
Sorry for all the newbie questions, but I'm too new at this, and school and other worries are taking up most of my time to look into this. but better now then never!
Also should I go to a dealership and ask for the newer calipers that people have been mentioning about?
Question 9 seems to apply to you.
Corkscrew
I'm hoping that either a technician or a Honda insider can answer this question:
Has the new brake design been installed in the remaining 2010 models? I was considering a Civic also but wanted the Accord solely because the Vehicle Stability Assist comes standard on all models.
I made an appt to get it done next week, but the brake pedal is on the floor before it does anything! This is ridiculous, and unacceptable. I'm familiar with the class action settlement, even though I think we got the shaft on that. Only $150 reimbursement, really?? The dealer wants $200, and this is a brand new car!
Just got off the phone with National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) and filed a complaint to force a RECALL. They said this is the 1st complaint they've heard! I urge ALL OF YOU TO CALL NOW! If enough complain, then we can force Honda to recall this piece of crap. My last Honda ever. German cars from now on.
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)
(888) 327-4236
PLEASE CALL NOW!
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)
(888) 327-4236
I hope you like the service departments at your local VW/Audi/BMW/Mercedes-Benz dealer, because they sure like you. If you're looking for low maintenance and repair costs, the absolute last place you need to look is at German cars.
And for $2k more, you can buy the extended 6 yrs / 100k.
Seems like a good deal to me.
And for $2k more, you can buy the extended 6 yrs / 100k.
Seems like a good deal to me.
Look at the sticker price on that BMW, then tell us again, it's free. Nothing is free, especially when you pay $2k for it.
However, it does sound like Honda has found and fixed the problem. If they are giving you $150 toward a $200 brake job and you got 12k miles out of the old ones, you are only out $50 with brand new brakes.
I'm sure that is frustrating and I can understand that you won't be interested in buying a Honda in the future. Some of us keep our cars for a long time (for elroy and me, that means at least 10 years) so their point about paying more up front for a BMW is well-taken.
Your logic doesn't really make sense. Okay so let's say I spend $50 for this set of brakes. What about the 24k miles, and 36k, and 48k...etc etc ? The $150 credit is a one time deal.
But from then on, I have to spend $200 every 8 months for a new set of brakes (in addition to the car payments, oil changes, tire rotations, and other routine maintenance). Mind you, this is all for a brand-spanking new car that's hardly broken in.
And you talk about keeping a car long term. That's what I was hoping too, but if a vehicle needs constant repair, you have to factor that repair cost into the overall cost of owning a vehicle.
So let's say a BMW costs more upfront, but a Honda could end up costing you more over the long run with excess repairs. Plus you have to factor in that a BMW is a higher class luxury car, so we're not exactly talking oranges to oranges here.
I was merely using BMW as an example of what seems to be a better made product, or at the very last, a company who stands behind their product. Is Honda doing that? NO. They won't admit wrong doing, and they are refusing to do a recall.
That sounds like a big 'SCREW YOU' to honda consumers everywhere. Everyone with an 08-09 accord (the model years with poor brake quality) knows what I'm talking about.
I guess only time will tell......but the general consensus is that the overall brake system design is flawed. The "better pads" (whatever that means) is more of a band-aid fix.
from talking with a guy at one place (who guessed the exact problem over the phone), the problem was not the pad. It was the caliper hanging up somehow, causing the pad to drag and wear out.
Definitely not a pad issue when only 1 of 4 is shot.
They did lube the caliper up real good, but it probably makes sense for me to have them do it again at some point (I am pushing 60K at this point, and have no desire to ever replace the brakes again).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
If you're buying a Bimmer/Benz etc for a short term, the reliability equation is less important. European cars are known for little problems that add-up quickly. Read a long-term test of the BMW 750 here on Edmunds Inside Line. $100k car with more warning lights pop up than I've ever seen in my 200k+ vehicle. Yes, it is a more complicated car with an overwhelming amount of electronics. However, if those electronics quit working after 20k miles, what fun is that?
Don't get me wrong, I'm no fan of the current generation Accord (I think Honda's last truly great Accords were in the 90s, although I do like my '06 2.4L - 63k and lots of meat still on all the brake pads), but I stand by my claim that buying European to save money on maintenance is as like cutting off your nose to spite your face.