I have above mentioned truck and have recently acquired an exhaust leak. The auto parts store says my truck doesn't have donut gasket... but i have this well for lack of a better word "valve" coming out of my exhaus manifolds close to the bottom if i turn it one way exhaust gets louder the other way it gets quieter what is this valve and could it be causing my leak?
my 1984 econoline f-150 van revs up & down at all speeds even at idle only a little bit for about 3 sec and its about 5 sec between revs seems to be getting worse.when im going down the high way at 55 -60 mph with my foot not moving at all on the gas pedal the van revs up and down very quickly almost creating a bucking motion.I am a long way from home 2876.00 mi and i need help.thanks for your time Jay
I know this was the first year that Ford issued the F-150s, when was the last year in the step-side model did Ford install wood beds in the step-sides? Does anybody know, account I am rebuilding a 1984 F-150 step-side model and just wanted to know......THANKS.....
I'm trying to replace the key lock cylinder on my 79 F-150. The only problem is; the key won't turn to the accessories position so I can release the pin. I've tried WD40 (stupid idea) and a graphite dry lube to get the key to turn but it's still doesn't work, no matter how much I jiggle the key.
Is there any other option available to me short of drilling out the cylinder or replacing the entire ignition? :confuse:
a friend of mine just had the same problem on his 86 f250 gas truck and then he found out there is a fuel filter on the drivers side that kinda looks like a small oil filter he changed that and it solvrd the whole problem
I have a 1978 F-250 with a rebuilt 400M. The engine has under 2k miles and is stock except for a Eldlebrock intake and carb. My issue is it is using oil at a rate of a quart a week. There are no leaks anywhere on the engine, nor are the plugs showing any sign's of burning.
I run (1) PCV valve on left (passenger side) valve cover, and breather on right side. Any idea's on how to resolve this issue.
Side note, this is a nonemissions engine (no EGR valve ect.) and Im drawing vacume directly from the carb to the PVC valve.
I have an 88 F150 320 dual tank, can someone please tell me which male connection (thin one or wide one) goes on which screw (possitive or neg.) on my external full pump?
It shows what screws are possitive and negative but doesn't explain which flat connector goes on which screw for the female wires to clip onto.
The wires with the females on them are black (to thin male) and the other one is pink with black slashes (to wide male). I know black is usually negative but I don't know for sure with these.
I just recently bought a 1982 Ford F150 XL. I have replaced spark plugs, and wires. Silenoid Freeze plug and ground wire. The truck was running when it was parked needing new freeze plugs. I got the truck to start once and then died. Now it wont even turn over. Any Ideas?
It was a long time ago but I seem to recall having a similar problem with my 1982 F150. Mine isn't an XL but I suspect that isn't significant. THe problem turned out to be one of the wires to the solenoid. I replaced the solenoid itself as well but it still didn't work until the wire was replaced.
i have a 1982 f250 with a 6.6 400 and c6 trans that is sitting on a frame that is rusted out but i also have a 1993 f250 with a 5.8 351. i was wondering if anyone knew if the 1982 f250 body and engine/tranny would fit on the 1993 f250 frame. i realize mounts will be different and i can handle that but i am more concerned about the body fitting and the drive line fitting. and if anyone had any tips on the 400 engine because i will be restoring the whole truck my self
I'm trying to replace the key lock cylinder on my 78 F-150. The only problem is; the key won't turn to the accessories position so I can release the pin. I've tried WD40 (stupid idea) and a graphite dry lube to get the key to turn but it's still doesn't work, no matter how much I jiggle the key.
Is there any other option available to me short of drilling out the cylinder or replacing the entire ignition?
I just changed the transmission in my 1982 Ford F-150. Now, when it's in gear and the gas is pressed, the wheels aren't spinning. They started spinning for a brief time (matter of seconds), then stopped again. Did not have this problem prior to the transmission change. Any idea what could be wrong?
Is there fluid in the "new" transmission? If you filled it when first installed then started engine most if not all that oil could have gone to fill converter.
I had the same problem with a 1979 F150. When I bought the truck it had set for about 1 year. I found out that tank was full of rust when I started it it might run all day or 10 min. When I took the tank off the filter screen on pickup was full off rust. Put in a new sending unit and pickup assembly. No more trouble.
Just picked up a 1990 F-150 4X4 short box with a bench seat with folding armrest. Can't seem to find a cup holder that will work. Any body have suggestions?
Comments
Is there any other option available to me short of drilling out the cylinder or replacing the entire ignition? :confuse:
There are no leaks anywhere on the engine, nor are the plugs showing any sign's of burning.
I run (1) PCV valve on left (passenger side) valve cover, and breather on right side. Any idea's on how to resolve this issue.
Side note, this is a nonemissions engine (no EGR valve ect.) and Im drawing vacume directly from the carb to the PVC valve.
Thanks!!
It shows what screws are possitive and negative but doesn't explain which flat connector goes on which screw for the female wires to clip onto.
The wires with the females on them are black (to thin male) and the other one is pink with black slashes (to wide male). I know black is usually negative but I don't know for sure with these.
Is there any other option available to me short of drilling out the cylinder or replacing the entire ignition?
Their website is www.LMCTRUCK.com