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First thing I'd do if I were you, I'd replace ALL the fluids on her. It's work you can easily do yourself, and you'll wind up with a LOT of lube to recycle. This gets you to a known point in the maintenance schedule. Then replace all the fluids once a year, and the motor oil and filter every 3k.
I know this sounds like a lot, but a mechanic at the dealership here said it best: "oil is cheaper than metal".
Transfer box, auto trans, diffs, swivel housings (I don't believe you have these anymore), brake fluid, power steering fluid (mine is ATF), coolant. You might go two years on the coolant.
Rotate the tires front to back, and re-check the pressures when you're done: 28 front and 38 rear. While the wheels are off, take a look at the brake pads; mine last about 17k miles.
Enjoy!
I really don't want a D1 for several reasons:
I want a new vehicle. I have been burned too many times when buying used.
I want the alphabet soup - for road use ABS and ETC can't be beat.
I want the bigger engine and the better brakes of the '03.
I do not plan to use the truck primarily as an off-roader. I just want the capability for those times the situation gets dicey back at the campsite.
I intend to lift the truck and install bigger tires, as well as install tougher bumpers with better clearance, so the departure angle isn't critical for me.
I just plain want a D2! With a CDL!!
Landrover recognised all of that, which is why they disabled the CDL. They are only putting it back cos of demand from people who want "all the toys" even if some of them are now obsolete.
Just my 2 pennies....
Listening to a local radio program today, I heard a discussion about the success of the H2. One of the guys went on talking about a tax credit offered by the US government for buyers of vehicles 6000 lbs or over (apparently this qualifies them as "agricultural vehicles" and makes them available to a $15K credit on income taxes). They say that this brings down the cost of an H2 from $50K to $35K. Supposedly there are 40 or so makes/models sold in the US that are over this weight.
Looking at the panel on the drivers door of my 2000 DiscoII, it says that the vehicle weight is 6,064 lbs.
Does anybody know about this? Is it real? If so, I could possibly still go back and restate my taxes for 2000 on.
Any insight is appreciated.
tidester, host
Having experienced the joy of LR overseas (in my youth) I always wanted one. However, for the past ten years the wife and I have owned only Volvo's. The new Volvo suv is 1)overpriced and 2)too tight in the back for someone 6'2. So, yesterday we bought a 99 Disco (superclean) with only 32K. Tincup, I bought a carfax report on it before going to the dealer and it looked good; but could you check VIN SALTY1241XA202838 for me. Dealer showed me a report stating that they had performed the 30K service and replaced the brake pads at that time. It needs new tires, and based on this board I will get the Scorpions. Thanks.
He did suggest though that I might try the Bridgestone Dueler in the 265/60-R18 size (255/55-R18 is the recommended size). He thought it would fit, but noted that it would raise the overall height by about an inch.
Hence, my question to Nanuq. Have you ever "jacked" you lady up and has it caused any adverse consequences such as increased roll over potential that you were concerned about?
Also I point out that I can get excellent off road tires in the 16" size if I want to change rims. (The 2001 DII had 16" rims without ACE; The ACE option, which I have, comes with only 18" rims.) However, my dealership told me if I buy the 16" Land Rover rims, they will NOT mount them as they are not recommended with ACE. So, here we are again, a vehicle I love and bought for off roading, and one of the most capable in the world, with NO tire option to do the job. What a waste. Anyway Nanuq, your advice will be appreciated.
About tires, wheels and ABS: there is SO much to be said on this topic! Some observations:
1) Stock tire diameter is adequate for most, but going taller will get your diffs higher off the ground... good thing.
2) Taller usually also means wider... and your big tires will hit your wheel openings on extreme angulation. Also possibly your radius arms and wheel well innards. Not a good thing.
3) ABS systems are calibrated to "know" how fast your tire's contact patch (to the ground) is decelerating. If you up your tire size, you up your radius/circumference... and you can fool the ABS into misreading your traction.
4) It's not always a bad thing to fool your ABS.
5) ABS senses the difference in rotational speeds between all four tires (on a Rover) and I suspect does some fancy calculations to guess your "speed" based on RPM vs. gear selection. I am guess this because my ABS activates when I'm stuck, spinning all 4 wheels equally in snow, and I stab the brakes to facilitate a quick shift.
6) Given a taller tire w/larger contact patch (more traction) vs. a larger radius and slower reaction to braking vs. ABS guessing what your traction is doing... I would bet big dollars that ABS won't get confused even measurably with a tire that's only a little taller than stock. I can back this up with my own experience: my ABS works (worked) great and I've run 1" and 2" taller tires.
7) A tire 1" taller than stock put my speedometer spot-on. It's dead accurate now.
8) 16" wheels from the earlier Rangie should bolt right onto a DII (they use the same axles).
9) Your ETC should be no more affected by tall tires than your ABS is. If anything it should operate more aggressively than stock, allowing a bit more wheelspin than with stock size tires (relative radius thing).
Conclusion: Go to a tire shop other than your Rover dealership and ask them to mount up some gnarly 16" tires on some Rangie wheels and put 'em on your DII. Stick with an inch taller than stock and *slightly* wider... you'll rub a little over big obstacles but not too bad. Make sure you get the fifth wheel and tire as a spare; if you're out playing and flat a tire you'll still have to get back out again the same way you came in.
Bear in mind that this is simply my advice and if you modify your Rover and roll it, you're on your own. Being the Land of the Free and the Home of the Brave, you already know this.
I hope this helps, -Bob
Craig
Try driving on dry roads and applying the brakes. Then jump out and stick a wetted finger in thru the wheel and touch the disc surface. The fronts should be a little hotter than the rears but they should all be hot enough to burn you. If any one or two wheels are cool, I'd suspect the slave cylinder on that wheel is sticking ... or it needs to have the air bled out of that wheel's brake line. That's the first thing I'd do, is to bleed it thoroughly and see if that helps. Check the rotors, are they gouged? Maybe your pads are trashed? Just some things to look for.
Good luck! -Bob
SALTY1241XA229246 and SALTY1247XA224116. Much appreciated. Driving a 2002 Tacoma now, very reliable but soulless! Ciao!
Hey there's another great use for a Disco, you can open the back door and sit inside the back and play your guitar even in the rain.
Cheers!
Phosphor/bronze strings bring out the warmth nicely.
Nice acoustics through the disco when you open up the back door!
I have heard of them but never tried them. www.drstrings.com
I like the Martin Acoustic SP strings. The Elixirs are nice, but tend to mute the overall tone sometimes.
I just had my navigation system replaced by Land Rover. Mine was replaced because it kept re-setting itself and powering down for no apparent reason, very annoying when driving and you cannot turn it back on. It didn't work right from day one when I picked it up. I'm assuming that yours is the Harmon Kardon system.
If so, I suggest going to the Harmon Kardon website for the Traffic Pro and downloading and printing the User Manual for the system. You will see that the instructions from the HK website are far more complete and useful than the inadequate pamphlet that LR provides with this complicated system.
It sounds like your system may not have the data installed from the US East or US West Navigation CDs. It could also need to be recalibrated. Try the HK website, that is what I had to do because the guys at the dealership were not much help with that system because it is so new.
http://www.hktrafficpro.com/
Good luck,
Dave
Maybe someone else has more info on it.
Nobody is talking about what the '05 will really be like, but the terms "uni-body" and "independent suspension" have been mentioned. Also a new series of more fuel-efficient engines, perhaps including a clean running turbo-diesel for the USA.
Here is a link about the future of LR. Be sure to read the rest of the article - it is very informative.
http://www.forbes.com/2002/07/29/0729feat_6.html
Electronic traction control (ETC)ensures that if a wheel is not getting any or much grip (as sensed by the electronics monitoring how fast the wheel is spinning relative to the overall speed of the vehicle)then the brakes are applied to that wheel alone, leaving all the power to transfer to the other wheel (s) which are (hopefully) finding some grip. With ETC only one tyre on the vehicle at a time needs some grip to maintain vehicle movement. IMHO a CDL is an unecessary bit of hardware on a vehicle with ETC.
ETC by itself is not a cure-all. Some of the things an owner should consider:
1: ETC requires a certain minimal wheel rotation speed to work. If you are moving very slowly, it won't do much. Backing slowly down a steep hill is one scenario where ETC does not work well.
2: If you have an electrical failure that takes out the system, or take a stick in a wheel sensor harness, you are stuck. With a CDL you can regain much of the lost traction.
3: If you break a driveshaft U joint, you are stuck - your rig will go nowhere under its own power. With CDL you can lock the center diff, remove the offending shaft, and attempt to drive out of the woods.
4: If you want to add limited slip or locking diffs in the axles for improved low speed traction (see #1) then they won't be effective without a CDL.
5: ETC is hard on the brakes and the differential spider gears. A CDL helps by reducing the workload on the ETC.
Many other fine off-road vehicles offer locking diffs - the new Touareg has CDL and rear, the Land Cruiser a CDL and two axle diffs (I think). There are reasons for this equipment. ETC can be very useful, but by itself it is a little inadequate for serious off-road driving.
Many owners at the Yahoo Disco2owners group have CDL and ETC, and they like the combination. The fact that LR is making it available again is a good sign.
I know it is a tough question to answer, but does anyone believe either ETC or CDL would have made a difference. (Another Wrangler with locking front and rear diffs made the climb.)
Also, I have had several "hairy" experiences with my disco (2001 SE7). On a very steep and somewhat rocky section of the White Rim Trail in Moab I was having trouble with traction and the ETC light was firing away. The Disco began loosing momentum and the rear end was trying to fish tail to the right, which was not good because the trail was narrow with a thousand foot or so drop off to the my left. My solution was to go for more gas to keep up momentum despite some rocks on the trail I would have rather have crawled over. It worked, though. The same thing happened on a muddy slope in Arkansas. And then, back home in LA (that's Louisiana), it was necessary to park on the bottom of an up slope of a grassy and muddy levy (vehicle pointed straight up). When it was time to go, a car had parked behind me and the only way out was to go straight up the levy. The Diso would not move; all four tires were spinning and the ETC light was again lit up like a Christmas tree. I couldn't move and had to wait for the driver of the car to come along so I could back off. [Note: I personally blame the tries for these situations (Goodyear 18" HPs) because the Disco has plenty of power and torque, and as many of you may know from my posts, I have been unsuccessful in locating any sort of all terrain tire in the 18" size because no one make one.]
Anyway, does anyone have any opinions as to whether CDL would have helped in any of those situations.
If you are running trails in Moab and in mud, you need serious off-road tires. I strongly recommend that you buy a set of 16 inch steel wheels, and buy a set of aggressive off-road tires suitable for the type of terrain you usually drive (I like the Goodyear Mud-Terrains). Buy as large an oversize tire as will fit under your wheel wells (I am assuming you have the stock lift.)
Air down to 20 psi or less and I don't think you will have any significant problems off-road. Be sure to bring a source of air to reinflate the tires when you return to a paved road.
It sounds like a PITA to switch wheels around, but its not all that hard. The main factor is if you have a place to store a full set of wheels.
Here's an article you should read:
http://www.texasrovers.org/larger.htm
Thanks Guys!
If you want CDL, wait and see if its available in the mY '04.
ACE REQUIRES 18" tires, i think. The 16" tires are too soft on it's sidewall for ACE to work properly. Therefore, if you make the switch, then do NOT order ACE. ACE has been around since 1999 i think.
I have heard a few problems with ACE. That is most LR salesman discourage customers from getting it.
I am a new member on here who is looking into buying a 00 Disco VIN SALTY154XYA266826 with 62487 miles on it. I called my local LR dealership trying to get service information, but they weren't as helpful as I would have hoped over the phone. If you don't mind, could you check it out and see if there is anything in this vehicles history that raises an eyebrow. Thanks a lot.
Mike
Just reading through here. I noticed some confusion with ACE and the wheelsize options.
It seems that LRNA only supplies you with 18" wheels if you have ACE. But in the rest of the world ACE also comes standard with 16" wheels.
I know because mine came like that straight from Solihull. So the story that you need 18" wheels for ACE to work is simply not true.
I cannot comment on the ride of 18" wheels, but ACE works perfect with 16"
Kind regards
Marc
Since ACE is designed to make the Disco hustle hard on paved roads, it makes sense they'd fit it with the optimum tire for hustling... low profile 18"ers. The high profile 16"ers will feel a lot less precise in corners. But they get my vote for offroading.
http://www.cnn.com/2003/TECH/science/03/06/show.diesel.reut/index- - .html
LOVING the new disco btw.