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The fuel pump and filter were replaced in 2009 (at 88,000 miles)
I took it to my mechanic, who said he could find nothing wrong, but suggested replacing the fuel pump. Thoughts?
He also suggest replacing the serpentine belt, which was replaced in 2008 (II believe the mileage was about 75,000). Thoughts?
Thanks for your input.
Your mechanic may have measured the fuel pressure and found it somewhat low, which would explain why he thinks it may be a good idea to replace it. If you decide to take his advise on this matter, ask him why he suggested it, and find out if he did indeed, measure low fuel pressure. If you determine that he is just guessing, don't do it. Regardless, Replace the fuel filter before doing anything else, as this is a common cause of poor starting and stalling, and costs much less than a new fuel pump.
The only reason your mechanic would have advised you to change the serpentine belt is if he found it worn or "weather-cracked", meaning it could break soon. It wouldn't have anything to do with stalling, but if he is a good mechanic, he would notice things that could go wrong in the near future.
Go out now and check your oil level.
Dick B
I check for spark and fuel injection signal, it has neither. I have tried a crank sensor and also the ignition module. Have read many posts here, but none with this "exact" issue. Am pulling hair out! If anyone has ideas, I'd be glad to hear them. Am thinking ECM...but have spent enough money and time on this vehicle already. Someone mentioned to me about wiring for the crank sensor, but have not seen anyone write about having that issue. Help....
You will not get injector pulses if there is no fuel pressure, but a fuel pump, or loss fo fuel pressure will not cause you to lose ignition pulses (spark)
I'm inclined to suspect either defective wiring, or a problem with the Powertrain Control Moudle. A competent dealer should be able to diagnose the problem, or you could buy a service manual and go through the diagnostics yourself, and then take the vehicle to a GM dealer to have the correct part replaced.
Dick B
I had the same problem with my 2000 Alero. After alot of studying and headaches along with a few cuss words, I finally decided to replace the ignition switch. I paid $94.00 for a new switch. It took me about an hour to replace it and all my issues went away. That was about 6 months ago and I have not had any issues with my car ever since.
Daniel
(Please post your message again, with proper punctuation, and no abbreviations, so that we may translate the message into English, and possibly get an answer for you.)
I just bought a 2000 Alero 2.4L V6. For the first time, I tried to start my car in front of my house and it wouldn't start. When I press on the brake, the lights on the instrument panel light up and turn off 3 seconds later. When I put on the high beams(?), all the lights on the instrument panel turn on and turn off 3 seconds later. I tried to read the check-engine codes for the instrument panel, but can't. Does anyone have any ideas, s'il tu plait? (please )
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I assume that it was working properly when you bought the car originally. The first thing that comes to mind is, the battery. Do you know if the battery is good? The systems on the car are very sensitive to voltage. If the battery has a low voltage the the computer systems are not operating correctly. The first thing I would suggest is if you don't know the history of the battery, I would replace it. If you have a volt meter available, check the battery for 12 Volts D.C. Also check the battery connections. If they are corroded, that too can cause problems. Check those things first and reply to this and let me know what you find out. If I need to I will get the wiring diagram out and study it. I will do everything possible to help you out.
Daniel
I agree that the battery is the most probable cause of the problem. When the load of the headlights or brake lights is connected to the battery, the voltage is probably dropping too low for the electronics to work. If you have a voltmeter, connect it to the battery, and read the voltage. it should be between 13 and 14 volts with the ignition off. If it drops below 10.5 volts when the headlights are turned on, that is too low.
Before replacing the battery, disconnect the terminals, insure that they are clean and corrosion free, and re-connect them. Make sure the battery is charged, and then see if you have the same symptoms.
Another way to check, is to connect a 10 amp charger to the battery, and see if that allows you to operate the brake without having problems. If so, your battery is weak.
Another possible cause of your problem is a loose ground point at some point in your vehicle, There are several of these in various locations on your car. You will need a service manual to locate these and run the troubleshooting procedures to determine if one is faulty.
RB
Here are a few questions. Does the car start at all? Does the car start and drive and after several minutes does it fail? Does it mostly fail during the day or night? What error lights are on? (for example: Service Engine Soon, Service Vehicle Soon, Security light on or flashing). In my experience, I have had similar issues. Once the Fuel regulator failed, The ignition switch failed twice, the coils failed, and the ignition module failed. Here is a break down of the parts. Fuel regulator $75.00 plus tax. Ignition switch WITHOUT KEY CYLINDER $95.00 plus tax. Coils $45.00 plus tax there are 2 of them. I can not remember what the ignition module cost was but it was rediculusly high. Those prices are just part prices only, it does not include labor.
However, I still have my Alero and I love driving it.
Let me know if you need more help
Daniel
More information please. After the 15 minute wait, the car starts. Does it then run okay on the highway? Do you notice anything happening just prior to the engine stalling? For Example, hesitation or sluggish acceleration. Are there any warning lights that come on on the dash board? I can name 8 or 10 possibilities. But I would rather narrow it down for you.
Let me know
Daniel
* Starving for fuel at high speed. Possibly from clogged fuel filter, or Fuel pump not supplying enough pressure.
* No Spark. Ignition module failing at higher temperature, Since there are two coils, I wouldn't suspect a coil, unless both are failing at the same temperature.
It is not likely that timing is bad, since it runs ok in city driving. I'm assuming acceleration from traffic signals is OK.
I would rule out the Passlock system, since it will not shut the engine off while cruising... It will only illuminate the "SECURITY" light.
As others have said, getting a better guess would involve more information, or hands-on observation.
Dick Berger
It turns over and it tries to start but it won't crank over to start now.
Sounds like you are saying that the starter motor is spinning up the engine, but the engine isn't firing up and running. This suggests that the engine is either not getting spark, not getting fuel, or is not timed right. Check these three items first.
RPM Gauge or whatever you call it, doesn't move it is staying at 0
Yes. It's normal for your tachometer to stay at zero until the car starts, and since yours isn't starting, that's what's happening. Once you get it started, it will register the correct RPM.
there is no security light or any other lights on.
THAT is extremely unusual. When you first turn the key to the ON position, you should have a short period when ALL the warning lights are on. This is the "bulb check". Then the warning lights should go out, leaving only the OIL, BATTERY, and "Service Engine Soon" lamps on. Once the engine is running, these lamps should extinguish. If you don't get any lights to go on, there is probably something wrong with your ignition switch, or your wiring. This could also possibly be a blown fuse that furnishes power to the dash lights. You will need a service manual to tell you which fuses to check.
For what it is worth, I have a 2001 Alero. I bought it in 2009 for $2500 she had 101 thousand miles on her. Since I have had that car, I have yet to have problems with the BCM or the ECM. (Now with that said, They both will fail tomorrow, that would be just my luck.) But anyhow, in the last 4 years, I went through 2 fuel regulators, a set of coils, an ignition module, a starter and the ignition switch. All of that was within the first year of owning it. She currently has 184K miles on her. In my experience with my car, all electrical issues have been traced back to the ignition switch. I remember with the original switch from the factory if the outside air temp was below 50 degrees the car would not start. The starter would hit but no fire in the cylinders. and the trunk would randomly pop open and the door locks would unlock as if I was turning off the ignition switch. Onto a different subject and car, I have a 95 GEO Tracker, she has a problem with not idling at 750 RPM. The engine idles at 3000 RPM. I still have not figured that out yet. I am thinking it is the ECM.
But anyhow, that is my 2 cents worth,
Daniel
* Fuel Filter [just replace it. it's cheap, and at 102,000 miles, it should be replaced anyway.
* Fuel pressure at the fuel rail. [get a service manual for instructions on checking this]
* Read out trouble codes through the ALDL connector. [a scan tool that connects by bluetooth to your smart phone or android tablet costs only $12 - $25 on ebay, and an App called "Torque" is free at the Google Play store.] You will then be able to read the engine trouble codes, and diagnose what is causing the no-start condition.
* You may have a bad crank position sensor, which can cause stalling. [A trouble code will be set if this is the case.]
* you may have a defective catalytic converter, in which the catalytic beads have blocked the exhaust, causing back-pressure in your exhaust system. [this will cause an oxygen sensor trouble code to be stored.]
* you may have a bad ignition module, causing only half your cylinders to fire, which could cause stalling. [This would be indicated by a missfire trouble code]
Good luck, and I hope you find the problem. A 2004 Alero is a nice, economical car to drive, if you can get it running right. (hope it's a stick shift. They are the best!)
Dick Berger
My question is can the BCM cause the car not to start if its bad. When I start the car it starts up fine then shuts off.I aslo want to note that I did not buy a gm cylinder lock it was from autozone.
Thanks for any input in my problem
Greg
The body control module is what controls everything from headlights to the trunk latch. If there is corrosion on the connectors and it has gotten wet that would cause a lot of the issues you are describing. Clean up the corrosion and look at the module circuit card. Make sure that it is clean. Also make sure the connector contacts are clean as well. If you are fluent with a soldering iron I would recommend that you look over all the solder connections and make sure that there are no cracked solder joints. Worst case scenario, you may have to replace the body control module. If you determine the module needs to be replaced. I am sure someone has a refurbished module on eBay.
Good luck with it,
Daniel
Greg
When the car starts, does it run for 1 or 2 seconds? The BCM is where the security system lives. It is also referred to the "pass lock" system. Just for S&G,
Have you checked the fuel regulator? If the"> fuel regulator has failed it will allow the engine to start but quit after a few seconds. If the engine starts and immediately dies the security system thinks the car is being stolen and it Locks out the ignition module. Also check the coils and make sure that the coils are good. What size engine do you have? If it is the 4 cylinder engine, it utilizes what is called "wasted spark" design. Meaning that the coils produce a spark not only on the compression stroke but also on the exhaust stroke as well. The fuel regulator could also be partially failing meaning it will run for a little bit but then die. If the regulator fails it will allow all 65 pounds of pressure from the fuel pump right up to the injectors. The injectors are only good for up to 5 PSI. If more than that gets to the injectors, they will leak and flood out the engine.
Let me know if you have more questions I hope this is helpful
Daniel
The car does run then dies in about 2 seconds. Yes it is a 4 cyl . So if the bcm is bad could It cause the start/stall problem? Is there any special way to check the fuel regulator?
thanks for all the help
Greg
Do you know where the regulator is located? If not it is located on the top left side of the engine. It is round and has a vacuum hose connected to the top of it. The best way to test it is to remove the vacuum hose off the top and move it to the side. Then, turn the ignition switch to the "on" position.
*******VERY IMPORTANT DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE************
Just turn the switch to the on position. Look through the opening between the hood and the dash. From the driver's seat you will be able to see the regulator. If there is a stream of gas coming out from where you pulled the vacuum hose from the top of the regulator, The regulator is dead.
The BCM could cause the engine to stop but not likely.
Try that and let me know,
Daniel
Greg
I have a 2002 olds alero with a 2.2 ecotec 4 cyl with 201,000 miles. I bought a new car earlier this year and gave the alero to my fiancee and she has had nothing but trouble with it since. She is experiencing random stalling while she is coming up to a light or stopped. Usually it starts back up but one time she had to wait 2 hours for it to start.
Before this started happening she stated the car would start fine in the morning but when she would leave for lunch it would "hesitate to start". I replaced the crankshaft position sensor, and looked at the starter while i was doing it and decided to replace that as well. That corrected the starting problem, but she has been experiencing the stalls since. The battery is 2.5 years old.
I replaced the ignition module last week (easy enough- took about 10 minutes) and when test driving it stalled again.
I've also repalced the fuel filter and spark plugs and air filter, still stalls. I put lucas in to clean the fuel system and put premium gas in, still stalls.
I purchased an entire new fuel pump last weekend but have not had a chance to put it in yet. After reading the forum i am skeptical. I would like thoughts/opinions on what this could be. I am planning on changing the pump within the next 2 weeks.
The car DOES have an aftermarket python security/remote start system. Best buy said they would remove it for 50-75.00.
Do you think it is the fuel pump? Could it be the aftermarket system is the cause of it? Battery? Alternator? BCM/PCM? Thank you.
It sounds like you pretty much hit everything that deals with fuel delivery. However, you missed one item that would cause that. Replace the fuel regulator. I have a 2000 Alero and she eats fuel regulators about every 2 years. I just replaced my regulator 2 days ago. It should cost about $75.00 plus tax at your favorite auto parts store. There is a good test for the regulator. If it is like mine, there should be a vacuum hose attached to the top of it. Pull that hose off and turn the key to the "ON" position. WARING DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. If fuel comes out where that vacuum hose was attached, the regulator is shot.
Hope this helps
Daniel
Is she still your fiance?
edit: yes, i did give it to her and yes she is still my fiance. At the time it had 193,000, and she was driving a 1999 sunfire that needed quite a bit of work and wasn't running.
Let me look in the book and I will find it. Hang tight for alittle bit
Daniel
The book does not differentiate between the 2.4 and the 2.2 so I am guessing that the only difference between the 2 are the bore and stroke. The regulator on mine is right above the alternator on the end of the fuel rail. It only has one bolt that keeps the bracket attached to the fuel rail. As you are standing in front of the car, it should be on the left, right behind the timing chain compartment. It looks like a "top hat". Be warned, when you find it, and you remove it, fuel will spray everywhere. there is between 40 and 60 PSI of fuel in that rail.
Let me know if you find it.
Daniel
I am going to try this. I am going to see if I can paste a picture here.
Well that does not work. I was hoping that it would allow a picture to be posted. The moderators will not allow personal phone numbers to be posted. otherwise, I would text you the picture. You may be able to google the fuel regulator location and there may be a picture of it there.
I hope this helps
Daniel
Went here and tried this a couple of years ago. Starting problems all fixed. Good luck. I know have a mechanic friend who told me when I bought my 03 Alero that it would last 15 years or 300,000 if I took it for yearly check-ups. I bought it with 12,000 miles on it in 2004, and it is still running pretty well. Pray you'll be okay. Mine only has 124,000, so I'm praying I still have 5 - 8 years left, as the loans been paid off for 4 years now. Happy Alero trails to you!
http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/FuelPressureRegulatorReplace1.jpg
http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/FuelPressureRegulatorReplace2.jpg
http://www.bergerweb.net/graphics/FuelPressureRegulatorReplace3.jpg
Here is the "Description and Operation" section of the manual:
The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm relief valve. The diaphragm has fuel pressure on one side and regulator spring pressure and intake manifold vacuum on the other side. The fuel pressure regulator maintains a constant pressure differential across the fuel injectors at all times. The pressure regulator compensates for engine load by increasing fuel pressure as the engine vacuum drops.
You might check for vacuum leaks too, since by the description, the fuel pressure is controlled by manifold vacuum.
Dick Berger