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Currently both cars are having identical problems.
When driving for 5-10 minutes, temperature light is on in the car is in over heated condition and NO HEAT is coming from the heater at all.
If I turn the heater control off, the temperature gage drops back to normal.
The vehicle under these conditions still drives okay but I am very concern.
Any help or thoughts is appreciated.
Just checking in, I still have my '96 Disco and at 160k miles she's rock solid and runs like a champ. We moved way way way up into the mountains and I get to play at pulling cars out of ditches all winter. A good set of studded snows and she's unstoppable.
I'm still on my original rotors, about my 9th set of pads, I still run Rislone and Castrol GTX and a WIX 51515 filter, and change ALL fluids annually.
I do have one small complaint, almost all my dash bulbs are blown out. Those tiny little green bulbs are getting tough to find now.
Cheers! Enjoy the Rovin' !
during repairs radio got left on draining battery to .01v. put new battery in now cant get srs light to go out it comes on for 2-4seconds then goes out and about 1-2seconds later it comes back on. also since battery was drained radio wont accept code screen just dims as you press the buttons also cruse contol wont come on. got a nanocom td5 diagnostic unit and its reporting no fault codes but i dont think its checking the dcu. any ideas or help out there
Thx, Al
Thanks in Advance
E. Davis
Raleigh NC
Good luck,
Al
Might any fellow Roverists have dealt with this issue or have installed a used part? Would really like to replace it as it's extremely safe to him to drive.
Am prepared to completely re-do the fluid throughout the system. It's had the master cylinder replaced already as well.
Have been scouring the net to find as much information as possible with mixed findings.
Thanks! Rick in TX
Say hello to the old gal!
If you look above the passenger glass, between those two trees you'll see McKinley. We're way up in Bear Valley now, with 110mph breezes and 8 foot snowdrifts. Yeah this old girl has her work cut out for her! :shades:
Cheers!
Al
Is the lifter dead? Completely stuck? Noisy? Usually that's from prior owners not keeping the oil fresh. Try Seafoam a couple weeks in the crankcase, then drain and put on a new WIX 51515 filter, and do it again. A couple cycles of that will do wonders. Keep your lubes fresh; oil is always cheaper than metal.
Now is time to replace ALL the fluids. Even the brake fluid. Use a turkey baster to remove and replenish the power steering ATF. Drain and refill the auto trans 3x over a month, that gets pretty much all the ATF replaced.
Check your rotoflex coupler for cracks, replace all the hoses, make sure the PCV breathers are open on each cylinder bank, make sure the throttle body fittings are not gunked up inside where the hose attached.
If you have any electrical weirdness take apart the fusible link box near the battery, take all the guts out (philips screwdriver does it) and clean all the contacts with a pencil eraser and blow out the debris.
Hit all the locks and hinges with some graphite powder, and... ENJOY THAT BEAUTY!
Cheers!
Remember the old "Lucas" electrics? Nobody in the US could fathom them. I drove thousands of miles with not a problem, ever.
SSD.
After reading the forum my plain old easy to fix, cheap parts Jeep is looking a whole lot prettier.
Thanks for all those that have posted so that future buyers will not go into a purchase blind to the issues.
For some time, been having ABS, traction control and hill descent lights coming on after a hard or firm brake, which sounded like a stuck shuttle valve. Local repair guys and dealer basically said just ignore it until it got worse.
It just did, with brake peddle losing any pressure and “going to the floor”.
Dealer says need to replace the modulator (with big $$ involved). Having read the various forums, it seems that with that type problem no one talks about replacing the modulator, but rather either the brake lines were cracked or needed to be bled.
Don’t really understand how to check whether the modulator needs to be replaced, the lines bled or replaced, but the latter would be obviously much less expensive.
I’d welcome, and thanks in advance, for any comments.
LTA313
Thanx
Thx,
Al
Ex-td5 because changed Motor/transmission to OM617, 4 speed MB auto trans & original (adapted) transference so it retains AWD. Having problems with ()&/!$·(&)·! alarm. Would like to replaced with a commercial brand new, disconnect, disasemble, remove, erase, waste the original /(%$&&!·")=·? alarm.
Could some body help?? If need I could give proof of ownership.
tks
homero
Of course it is possible to remove the factory one and replace it. Quite som work though.
Let me know a bit more, and I might be able to advise you.
Salut!
Best regards
homero gonzalez
owner of a 2001 Disco 2 ex-TD5
best regards
homero
But it involves the "under the dash box" on the passenger side and the immobilizer itself behind the dashboard.
Get in touch with the Landrover dealer and try to get some more info from them.
Again, sorry.....
And good luck! I would have sold my Disco if I hadn't found the solution to the problem, so I know your problem.
tks
homero
where in the world are you?
We dont have an insurance issue if we have / have not the immo, and sincerelly, its not worth to have it.
If you would like pls send email with instructions how to insulate/eliminate the ()/·"** thing.
tks
homero
Try extending the antenna on the box. In many cases that will partly solve the problems of getting the immobilizer to release, and you can start the engine.
The antenna comes from terminal 26 on the box [Alarm ECU] which sits in the passengers foot-well behind the panel. And you extend it to go up to the front screen and across to the other side.
lr4x4
I am a glutton for punishment having owned my Disco since 50k. I love the car but it seems the #1 problem with these is the cooling systems... they tend to want to leak from any and every place possible. That being said, I'm not sure I want to do another head job.
Thanks in advance for comments and advise....
Stephen
$400 new tag
$60 Rental Surcharge
$5 Tire Fee
$1.50 Battery Fee
$2 Lemon Law Fee
$218 First Payment Due
There is a key blank on Ebay with the remote
http://www.ebay.com/dsc/Car-Truck-Parts-/6030/i.html?_from=R40&LH_TitleDesc=1&_nkw=2000+Land+Rover+Discovery+Series+II+4.0L++Parts&_pgn=2&_skc=100&rt=nc
Been to South Dade to test drive and check out the interior. I won't be ready to do anything until October, so we'll see what the situation is then. I am planning to contact North and South Dade, Naples and Orlando. I wonder if these dealerships are competitive, particularly Land Rover North and South.