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thanks!
I got a 2007 Tucson V6 in Nov. 2007 and have about 16K miles on it now. The MPG has never been better than 15 mpg. My wife usually drives it local so I understand the "city" range, though 15 is terrible. Is this common? Any ideas to boost it?
Thanks.
Steve
We Test the Tips - What Really Saves Gas? And How Much?
We Test the Tips Part II - Save Gas with Smart Driving and Slick Aerodynamics
1) Is the ESP (elect. stabilization. program), that applies the brakes independently, & invisibly, of the driver, at any, or all speeds, & conditions, as it sees fit, that is killing the gas milage, but I can't prove it. I believe it still is engaged somewhat even though I shut it off each time I remember, and gain 1 or more mpg. Just think soon this gas hogging device will be on every car, I like to drive my own car, not have it governed by a robot!
2) Is the AWD system designed by Borg-Warner, I think there is some unecessary drag incorporated in this! The earlier (Porsche/Audi) 4WD design (Stereur/Puch) used on the early (1st generation design) Santa Fe's like the 2002 model I had, worked fine, and I believe had less drag, because the gas milage was always better on my Santa Fe, then the Tucson could ever do, with both having the same 2.7 V6 engine.
So this is your 2nd gas hog.
I think that kinda stinks. even though I am a conservative driver I do live in a cold climate and do a lot of stop and go driving, very little highway.
My solution is to drive my 1998 honda crv has 160,000miles on it and still gets 20 mpg doing the same driving.
I looked at trading in the tucson, but what the person posted above about how much more it actually costs per year in gas for the tucson and what a rav4 or crv would cost is exactly why i didn't trade it in. Unfortunately i've had my fair share of built on a friday problems and my hyundai dealer's service is terrible so i won't be buying another hyundai.
.
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EPA's website isn't specific on how much testing is done in house and how many manufacturers submit results.
Same difference though - mpg numbers are "certified" by the EPA, not the automakers. If you're getting less than the sticker, check out some of these tips to try to rule out some things:
What Really Saves Gas? And How Much?
We Test the Tips Part II
As the first link says though, "Our tests showed that the most significant way to save gas is: you".
The other factors that can affect fuel economy are:
-driving short trip all the time
-cold weather
-snowy, icy conditon
The EPA testing is done in a controlled lab environment so the result is usually optimal.
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So, did you wind up with a Tucson then or are you still shopping? (Don't see a recent post of yours off-hand saying whether you got a Tucson or not).
if i lost my company van (i wouldn't be surprised with all these budget cuts), i would definitely test drive the new Tucson first.
.
steve_, "Hyundai Tucson v Kia Rondo" #1, 8 Nov 2010 11:48 am
Does anyone have REAL WORLD MPG for the 2011 2.4L Sportage or Tucson with automatic?
Every time I test drive one I make sure to "punch" the button to get the average MPG reading. So far the readings have been horrible... range of 16 to 22 mpg. Granted this includes zero turnpike travel but still the MPG reading are kind of scary. A Golf buddy gets an average of 26 with his 2010 Equinox... shouldn't I at least expect to get that many mpg?
In the past KIA's and Hyundai's have had some pretty awful numbers. I rented a 2008 Sportage for a week while on vacation and never got better than 18 mpg and that did include highway driving. I had thought the new engine was going to be better ???
Also any big difference between the Tucson & Sportage interiors???
I tried dealing with two different local dealers in my area and hyundai canada, their stance is no test drives or fuel mileage testing in the winter months.
In the summer i get closer to 18mpg and 22mpg.
But the older Tucsons here we don't know if they are 4 or 6 cylinders. I suspect they are 6's and Hyundai's old 2.7 V6 was a known gas guzzler. So were the 3+ litre V6's that replaced it, even tho it is still used in the Kia Rondo. Apparently in that vehicle and with the gearing and no AWD, it does ok. So this tells me they are sensitive to the vehicle it is in, gearing, weight, 2 or 4 WD, and even exhaust configuration affects FE.
Seems to me earlier in this thread, 2011 owners were happy with their FE. Go back and check.
If enough of us disappointed owners got together, we could file a class action suit. Any takers? :lemon:
With regard to Tucson mileage specifically, our 2010 will only meet the EPA rating if you really soft pedal it. It is very zippy, and the wife seems to be having a lot of fun with it. She quit complaining when I drove it and immediately got several MPG higher economy. :shades:
Apprx how many miles do you go before refueling? Do you always reset the trip meter? And about how many gallons (US or Cdn?) do you usually add.
I'll do some redundant math with you just to check your calculator.
6 sp auto right? Roof racks with a Thule or similar cargo box up top?
Do you use a remote starter? Or idle the vehicle more than 60 seconds anywhere?
I have never had a vehicle getting (not even close) the EPA mileage in winter time.
It is not hard to see the reason why if you have a trip computer, reset it first thing in the morning, you will see extremely poor fuel economy in the first couple miles, it will quickly improve after that. Once the car is warmed up to normal operating temperature, reset the trip computer again and you will see very close to EPA mileage as long as you are driving on bare road during non peak hours.
.
There is something wrong with my car that Hyundai has blown me off on.
Since I first posted here, I made a 190 mile round trip and did get 22 mpg. The car was on cruise control at 65 for half of the way then on 55 once I crossed the state line. This is the highest mpg that I have gotten since I purchased my car in August. I do not get more than 240 miles per tank. I have 4800 miles on my car. From everything that I read, that "break-in period" does not really appply to today's new cars which are percision made. As I said earlier, there is something wrong with my car. Maybe not all Tucson's, but I do see many people complaining about their fuel economy in the tucson, so there is something going on. Oh and yes, I know that speed, tempurature, and road conditions affect my mileage. Again, not stupid.
agree, i've been getting consistent FE after the first 200 miles.
22mpg for extended hwy driving is way too low, you have a lemon.
.
First tank through my brand new 2011 GLS AWD was 25.5MPG. This is in winter conditions here in Minnesota and combination driving.
I'm a happy camper.
Original Milage for Tucson 2010 is 14 MPG ...
I bought a tuscon 2011 .. looking at the milage , For 1000 Miles ...it was 25 MPG...... Then @ 1500 miles , you will start crying for buying this ******... The milage will be 14 mpg AFTER 1500 mILES ON YOUR CAR
Your content makes no sense.......if your Tucson was running 25MPG then dropped to 14MPG there is something definitely something wrong with it.
No car does that........MPG usually gradually increases as it breaks in. Not drop 11MPG in one tank.
Take it back and have them fix it under warranty but don't piss and moan on the forum and tell others it's a POS until you take some action to find out the issues and have the dealer fix it.
Telling others their vehicle will do the same is just plain wrong......
2011 Hyundai Tucson AWD GLS
(80% Highway miles)
Tank #1 = 24.5MPG
Tank #2 = 25.9MPG
Tank #3 = 26.8MPG
Tank #4 = 27.1MPG
All verified by computer and manual calculation (always within .2MPG of each other)
Still cold temps here........mighty happy with the gas mileage on the Tucson.
I expect to easily hit the published 28MPG (all hwy) when the temps warm up a bit and I get a few more miles on the vehicle.
Soooo, "MP124" how is your POS doing? Cat got your tongue?
yes it has a roof rack, cross bars not on, air temp 60
first few tanks of gas I have been averaging between 22-25mpg mostly highway driving.
Tried something new on the way home tonight. Roughly 26.2 mile drive from work to home
1. reset mpg average
2. set cruise at 65mph
3. use auto stick to force 6th gear
Highest MPG right off the bat on flat pavement 35mpg, but since roads are not all flat (sigh) I did notice the mpg drop when going up hill. Dropped to around 27 MPG. Steep hills did dog the engine a bit, dropped about 4 MPH but nothing to stressing. Off highway now to county road. Still using auto stick and shifting at no more than 2600 rpm and now at 55mph with MPG on the rise again.
Settling into park in the driveway and average for the trip home *30.3MPG* (^_^)
Small shift in driving habits netted me an extra 5-7 mpg!
Am ordering K&N Air filter for it this coming weekend, and plan to switch to a full synthetic on my first oil change
i switched over a year ago and observed absolutely no difference in FE (according to trip computer), i even pick the same route at non peak time for comparison so that the traffic pattern wouldn't affect FE measurement.
i just assume it would provide better cold start protection otherwise it wouldn't justify the higher cost.
let me know if the air filter works better.
.
Some people do get good mpg out of the gate like you are getting; it took way more than 4 tanks for the mpg in my last new car to settle down to a "dependable" number.
After 3,000 miles I started trusting the mpg numbers. The mpg went up pretty good over the first 10,000 miles and even went up by little increments over the next 100,000.
Enjoy the new Tucson - sounds like a nice ride!
Do NOT switch out you OEM air filter! OEM air filters are designed with intense R&D. There are a lot of variables as to how your engine takes its air in, everything from filter material, shape, air box shape, airbox volume, track lengths etc etc etc.
One of the worse things you can do to your engine is install a filter by any aftermarket brand that claims more fuel economy and hp and torque. You must ask yourself, how can they do that? They do it by letting more air in, and by default of that it is letting more dirt in. As the filter becomes clogged with dirt it actually starts to filter better, but quickly also starts to strangle the engine of air creating worse fuel economy and less hp and torque. Many (MOST) of these aftermarket oiled filters get installed with the owner's intention of being diligent with the maintenance hungry intervals it requires to clean and reoil it using their special detergents and oils. And if it is not done correctly you actually force dirt deeper into the filter so that as it becomes more clogged the next time, the engine starts trying to pull that dirt into it. These special filters may work on a race track where it is not as dusty and dirty as our freeways and gravel roads and where engines never rack up a lot of miles between teardowns and rebuilds, but in the real world, a knowledgeable person will value your used car that had a K&N or other similar airfilter, considerably less than the same car that always used an OEM filter. If it was me, that is an immediate deal-breaker.
And to ensure you are understanding some of this, changing out the OEM air filter will affect the engine management tuning tech that has been designed into your car at the rpm ranges and speeds the average user encounters and it will probably be an undesirable effect. If not when brand new, it sure will be after only a few thousand miles as it starts to plug.
While you might find this to be considered a controversial topic, use your own common sense to come to your own conclusions. It is simple really. Any filter medium that lets more air in, HAS to let more dirt in right along with it.
A case can be made for 100% synthetic oils if you drive in extremely hot or cold climates. Avoid 'synthetic blends'. Biggest rip off in automotive history because they charge almost as much for it as a full 100% synthetic, yet has a disproportionate percentage of synthetic content.
Sam
That's got to be one of the best posts I've seen here in a long time.
I agree 100%
I normally shy away from discussing air filters, oil, and women. LOL.
Always seems to turn into a pissin match........I usually let the "home-brewed experts" find out the truth for themselves.
Thanks for not shying away from the truth and not being afraid to post it.
I will post back in a few weeks with mpg ratings with the K&N for those that are interested.
I also agree that if it is not cleaned correctly you actually force dirt deeper into the filter. But on the other hand, I have had 2 vehicles with K&N filters, the ones that fit into the factory air-box, not the "ricer" style cone filters. The first vehicle being a 1991 Honda CRX dx with 340000 miles and counting. Used as a daily driver when the wife and I cant carpool to work. The other was the 2007 Hyundai Elantra with 75000 miles, which we traded in for the new Tucson. On the Elantra it did improve the fuel economy by about 2mpg. On the CRX it made almost no difference in MPG. 36-38 with rapid acceleration, 42-44 with economy driving.
Personally I plan on running the factory filter in the winter when the roads are at their dirtiest, and the K&N the rest of the year, cleaned annually.
It is not my intent to try to sway vehicle owners into using one product or the other. It is up to each individual to do their own research and ultimately choose to use a after-market brand or not.