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Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • byrsscbyrssc Member Posts: 5
    Ok, here's what we have done for this car since March '11: New fuel pump, new fuel filter, new instrument cluster board, new main computer, new CAM sensors (4 of them with three under warranty) new temp sensor last Sat. and probably some other stuff, but I don't want to get depressed by pulling out the bills. It's a little over $3K so far. Latest events have happened since the new main computer of last month. It still cuts off at times while in drive, but stopped, like on an exit ramp. The temp gauge has been stuck on a little past Cold even though it's warmed up. The battery light now comes on after it has been started a few seconds. First there's a "ding" then the light. The Check Engine" light is on all the time now, but it isn't throwing any codes. That all started happening last Friday and we had AAA tow it in again (Thank heavens for AAA Plus and a mechanic who's about 4 miles away.) We had our mechanic hot solder the instrument cluster board where it showed on the video someone posted on here even though he couldn't see a problem. Today while going down the interstate the tach and speedometer went crazy. I'm hoping for a day off this week so I can take it back to OFM (Our Favorite Mechanic). It's at the point now that it's a challenge to him to fix. So any help would be appreciated. After so many people said that soldering the board corrected the problem, I was so hoping that would do it. HELP!!
  • kochesekochese Member Posts: 11
    Hate to tell you this, :D but if there one short in this car,or something grounding out, it will throw almost anything off electically, My car had door locks going crazy, tach ometer pinned in some cases, the fuel gage ,when we filled it up, went up and down. Door ajar lite came on. it was a mess. I knew it had to some thing with the door. We couldnt find it .finely my guy said it was the passenger slider door contact so he disconnected it. cars has been great ever since. moral of the story go w/ wat you feel it is most likely the 1st sign it gives you is the area to go in. you have an ignition short. P.S. Your crazy to had spent 3 k on that car. I just bought a 1999 jeep grand cherokee for 3k and it to has its elect probs. but thanks to google we solved the problem :blush: cars great . try googleing your problem it helps me G O O D L U C K :)
  • byrsscbyrssc Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the reply. There are plenty of reasons why we needed to spend $$ keeping this van on the road with first and foremost the lift for my husband's power chair is in it. Just don't have the 10K to 50K for a van that can handle handicap issues.

    Again, would appreciate some helpful suggestions.
  • cactuscovecactuscove Member Posts: 1
    I am sure you probably tried this but I was having this issue and a friend who is a mechanic told me to change my ac filter, I said I did and he said no.. the one behind the glove box. Apparently there are 2 of them but it is something to make it a failsafe he said. You literaly have to remove the glove box to get to it and napa sold the part for like 80.00 but I havent had the issue since. Good luck to you and yours.
  • byrsscbyrssc Member Posts: 5
    Thank you for the helpful reply. I've sent it on to our mechanic who will have the van today. It's sure worth a try. I don't think this filter has been changed in all this nightmare.
  • 2002tandclimit2002tandclimit Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 T&C Limited with electrical problems. A few months ago I was driving across a bridge when the van cut out on me. It was raining very badly at the time. I took out the battery and alternator and had them tested. They were both good. I looked at the fuses and the ignition fuse had popped. So I bought a box of ignition fuses but they all popped too. Then, I took it to the dealership and they had no clue. I then took it to another shop. They found several wires that oil had dripped on and the heat from the exhaust apparently burned thru the wires. They re-connected the wires and installed a new computer I bought but it still doesn't run. They thought they had it fixed and even drove it around all week. But when I came to pick it up (on a rainy day) they said it popped the ignition fuse again. Now, they are still working on it but it doesn't look like it can be fixed. I have been reading about the printed circuit board on this discussion. Does anyone know anything that might be helpful? I would greatly appreciate it.
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    sounds like it could be a problem with the instrument cluster circuit board. cracked or bad solder joint. try this link to compare with your problems. you will also find some You Tube posts on caravan insrument clusters

    http://www.topix.com/forum/autos/dodge-caravan/T4AJES74F3AC3VOAB

    also have seen some info that disconecting / reconnecting battery will reset instrument panel in some cases

    good luck
  • ale12ale12 Member Posts: 4
    I dealt with this problem in my 99 T&C Van for almost 2 years. At first the instrument cluster would go dead. For a while I could hit the dash on top of instrument cluster and it would come back on for a period of time (hours to days) then it would go dead again. Finally it stayed off all the time and never got it to come back again. During this time, their was a couple of instances when the van went completely dead. I had it towed to the shop twice within a 5 month period and both times (different shops) they replaced a PCM module. The second module was under warrenty, but these instances w (labor, parts, etc.) were expensive. The last time the so called repair only lasted 2 days before the van would start for 3 seconds and then die. After trying to start it several times it died completely. I read many of the post on this site and got the idea that the problem with the dash and the not starting may have something in common with the alarm system. One post mentioned that the alarm system goes through the instrument cluster circuit board. I removed the instrument cluster circuit board and found a solder joint on one of the pins on the main connector that was actually separated from the pin. I needed a magnifying glass to find it. This is why the problem is sometimes intermittent. A bump in the road or a vibration could open and close the circuit. I re-soldered the pin and have not had a problem since. The van has been running great for the last six months with all electrical accessories working. I have regained confidence in its dependability. Thanks to all who take the time to impart their wisdom on these posts. I came very close to scraping a perfectly good vehicle.
  • jds1984jds1984 Member Posts: 2
  • jds1984jds1984 Member Posts: 2
    I just recently purchased a used 2002 dodge caravan and I have noticed nothing electrical works without the van being started, example: the overhead dome lights and power locks will not function without starting the van. I can not open the back hatch without using the key unless the van is started. Suggestions?
  • kmaddenkmadden Member Posts: 1
    Problem ongoing for almost a year.
    Clicking when starting.
    Replaced: alternator, battery cables, battery, starter
    Still clicking
    Electrial problems... tail light out (not a bulb) headlights out (same time?)
    Squealing under hood, had belts replaced.

    Any ideas?
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    try disconnecting the battery for 5 min and reconnect it – this will reset the BCM and lights may work.

    Also, there a known problems with instrument cluster problems due to bad solder connections or cracked circuit board in the instrument cluster panel - search Youtube and web on this. Good luck
  • smackessmackes Member Posts: 1
    You need to replace the instrument cluster in your van. I had the same problem and after spending a fortune replacing things that didn't need to be replaced, we replaced the instrument cluster and haven't had a problem since! Good Luck!
  • rpg_playrrpg_playr Member Posts: 1
    i too have a 97 chrysler town and country that has problems. some times when i start it it will turn over and then die. The gauges also will not register that i even have gas or anything. i started disconnecting the positive battery cable normally i only had to wait 10 minutes then it would reset and run fine. but lately even when it has been disconnected for days it will do the same thing start then die :( and on the occasion it does decide to start it gives me new problems. any time i come to a complete stop my oil light dings at me but when i accelerate it stops. i check my oil when it does this and the oil is fine. at one time it through an anti theft code. i have also heard it could be the engine computer going bad. if anyone has any info i would appreciate it.
  • fev1fev1 Member Posts: 4
    Ok, I'm the guy with the 2002 that would have the AC, windows die, and all transmission indicator lights come on. They finally fixed it. They replaced the power relay module that is inside the engine compartment - they discovered that everytime they touched it it reproduced the problem. the parts involved were RL727079-AF, 5102969-AB, 4685719-AH,4727370-AA. The whole job cost over $900.
  • cententcentent Member Posts: 6
    linda456, "Caravan/Town & Country Electrical Problems" #534, 12 May 2011 5:37 am#MSG533

    Check linda456 out because he helped fix my problems and the problems on my sister's and brother's van.

    God Bless!
  • maxima8maxima8 Member Posts: 14
    i have same problems a year ego and i get a used cluster, that was the problems
  • asdfghjkl1asdfghjkl1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Town & Country 2005 and the headlights are pulsating along with the interior lights! Dealership dont know the problem. Had my battery and alternator checked out positive. Is there a lawsuit going on for these problems? Noticed many have the same problems.
  • rlharrisrlharris Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    my issue sounds just like post #152 by lsavinsky. Thought the battery was going out; little lag on the start-up. Tonight, after moving the van forward in the driveway, the engine will not turn off. Sounds like starter continued to run. Finally ran itself out before I could find a wrench to disconnect the battery post, white smoke from underneath front of engine smelled like electrical/rubber fire.

    Any idea what might be going on?
  • detterrdetterr Member Posts: 1
    ok ive had my 97 town & country lxi for a few years now and its had its share of problems and now the recent one is my rear ac and rear wiper and washer lights just flash all the time and nothing works but if i shut it off and start it up again they dont flash and everything works just fine does anyone know what this could be
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    disconnect the battery for 5 min and reconnect it – this will reset the BCM and lights may work.

    check wirling near back hatch door.

    try banging near the instrument cluster when the flashing is going on and see it it changes. There are known problems with instrument clusters due to bad/cracked solder connections in the instrument cluster panel - search Youtube and web on this. Good luck

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ha7KXBbP2AY

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtwnsPmkX1M
  • oneuknowoneuknow Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 99 town and county with only 100,000 miles on it had it a month an did not drive it for about 5 days and went to start it and the battery was dead so had it charged up putt in and everything lights up on dash but when I turn key I does not make a sound . It's almost like it was not in park or something . I did notice that the little box that is around each letter as far as p for park or d for drive was not around pthe p but the car was in park . Has anyone had a similar problem . Thanks ....
  • birdman895birdman895 Member Posts: 2
    I have that happen with my 2002 T&C. It only happens once in a while. So far I haven't figured it out, except to remember that when it happens to shift into neutral to start it. It has worked everytime so far.
    My guess is that this is one of the few non-electrical problems I have had. It is probably mechanical, a proximity sensor on the linkage or in the tranny out of adjuistment.
    Good luck
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    could be a bad or stuck starter relay - when you locate it, try tapping it continously while someone turns the key. If it does start replace the relay. best to trouble shoot these with a ohm meter if you can.
  • varmentvarment Member Posts: 4
    i just bought a 2005 T&C touring a couple of months ago and this just started happening today to my girlfriend. The dash went out including the gauges, the trip computer was out, the remote doors would not open, the back hatch would not even open manually, and it started when she went to get out of the van and the radio would not shut off. Once I got home the key buttons did nothing, I started it and everything went back to normal... Seems like too many of these problems happen for as much as they charge for these things...
  • fev1fev1 Member Posts: 4
    l had similar issues with an 02 T&C. The dealer had it for almost 3 months trying to figure it out. Don't let them replace the computer - 700 bucks and it wasn't the problem. They finally figured it out. Some sort of power module inside the engine compartment that relays lots of disparate systems. My receipt doesn't have the exact name of the parts, but I suggest you speak to David Todd at Chrysler Mall of Georgia (Buford, GA). Explain the problem and tell them to recall the T&C they had for several months. They'll remember - in fact my wife brought them Holiday snacks last week to thank them for their persistence and finally solving the problem. Remember - the villians in all of this are the designers at Chrysler, not the service guys! Good luck. Alan
  • varmentvarment Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for that Alan, Your a life saver and maybe a van saver too!
  • varmentvarment Member Posts: 4
    One other thing is the e-brake light on the dash, when ever I make a left turn it comes on and i hear the alarm. My Dodge Neon does the same thing. My T&C and my Neon are both 2005's, Has anyone else heard of this?
  • amandashamandash Member Posts: 14
    You may want to check the neutral safety switch in the transmission. I think it is call something like Range selector switch. I had a similar problem where there were square boxes around all the gears whenever I had a no start problem. You have to drop the tranny pan and valve body to change it. The part is not expensive but its a pain the replace.
  • varmentvarment Member Posts: 4
    For the dash lights and gauges going out including speedometer, The suspect part is a front control module p/n RL727079AF
  • christiann2christiann2 Member Posts: 1
    My town and country broke down and it seemed like the alternator. We replaced the battery and alternator. Three weeks later..again with my three young children, the battery light came on..then all lights started coming on..radio going off and on..it looked posessed! We replaced the computer and it's not fixed!! Does this sound like it could be the same thing. I live in birmingham but may have to call your mechanic!
  • muggelbergmuggelberg Member Posts: 19
    I have 2001 caravan, no alarm on it. The remote starter system quit working about a month ago., We have been starting with the key every morning. This morning the van started as normal, but the head and turn lights are flashing back and forth like there is an alarm going off. (no sound) I pushed all the buttons on the remote starter thinking maybe we push it by chance. The relays under the hood are clicking too. I pulled the two relay that were clicking, but the lights are still flashing?? Any help? Thanks Bill
  • makinmoves101makinmoves101 Member Posts: 1
    I have a problem and all of this stopped working at once...my turn signals don't work, my electrical seats don't work, my heater or air don't work, and my door locks don't work.....i checked all fuses and relays and they are good.....It's very strange because all my other electrical component's work...like the head light's, wipers, etc....and all these thing stopped at once. If there is anyone out there who have experienced this problem...please can you tell me what fixed it.
  • samiamwvsamiamwv Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 T&C is having the same problem. Have your problems been corrected and what was. I replaced the alternator when I lost all power but my gauges are still dropping, radio pops and lights blink.
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    check codes..

    try thumping the dash and see if gauges come to life - if any change could be problem with instrument cluster bad connection or solder joint bad.

    fro more info search :
    http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/forum.php
  • dick90dick90 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 2002 town and country and some times it will start and then shut off. All I have to do is tilt the steering wheel either all the way up or down and have no problem starting. It might be okay for a few days and then it will do it again. Dealer thinks it's in the security module. Cost $80.00 to run test on computer.
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    Chrysler is not the only one with the problem many of the VATS type security systems from the past are having issues. There are bypass solutions for most systems. Also sometimes it helps to clean the chip on the side of the key and the ignition with a small amount of rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip. I have also heard that carring a big bunch of keys on a key ring can confuse the chip in the ignition key.
  • dick90dick90 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks rpaul3
    I'll give that cleaning method a try. dick90
  • hlp1973hlp1973 Member Posts: 6
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    #2 of 2 check engine light does not work by hlp1973

    Mar 24, 2012 (4:59 pm)
    when i bought my 1996 dodge caravan we found that the check engine light did not work.
    codes could still be read, and since i have purchased the van a few years ago i have replaced 6 or 7 codes along with a new fuel pump and of course routine stuff.

    finally had all the codes gone and thought i was good to go for my inspection.but faile because they want the light to come on when they turn the key.
    the mechanic sudjested a new bulb so i you tubed how to do this and replaced all the bulbs while i had it appart.

    it still did not work, so we purchased a used part and replaced the symbol panel. guess what still does not work.

    the symbol panel is on the top of the dash, while below that is my gauges for speed and gas.i assume that they are not connected, is this correct?

    the reason why i am asking is because my dash board light does not work. the gauges all work fine but the light at night does not come on.could this be linked??

    do i need to remove the steering wheel to remove the dash and replace the light bulb for the dashboard light?

    i also have a blue wire that hangs above the pedals, i assume a radio wire or something?

    does anyone have any sudgestions on what i should look for now and where to look for it, i have two weeks left and a small purse to get this car ready for its inspection. any help would be great!!

    thanks heather
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    check the fuse box under the dash for a blown fuse - also check the voltage on the loose wire if it has voltage and goes away when you start the engine it could be related.

    does the "need oil" lamp work and go out when you start it - connect them both :shades:

    #1: Panel

    #2: Guages,Right High beam headlight and the high beam indicator

    #3: Rear Wiper, Left headlight High Beam

    #4: RH park, backup lights switch and relay,Speed porpotional steering module,power door lock switch illumination and daytime running lights(Canada)

    #5: Power Door locks,Power Mirrors,vanity,dome,map,ignition and trunk lights,sunroof,radio,power antenna,body control module and power for the data link connector

    #6:Heated mirrors,heated rear window indicator

    #7: Instrument cluster illumination,park and tail lights

    #8: Cigarette lighter,Radio Amp and horns

    #9: Power door lock motors

    #10: Not used

    #11: Radio

    #12:Left low beam head light

    #13,14,15,16 not used

    http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/3dntt-need-dash-fuse-box-diagram-1996-dodge-cara- van.html
  • hlp1973hlp1973 Member Posts: 6
    hi first thank you for a quick response i will check all the fuses.

    all my lights on the symbol cluster work except for my check engine light it is the only one that does not work, does this usually have its own fuse?

    the guage panel which i believe to be seperate all works however the light that lights up the dashboard so you can not see your speed at night does not work.

    the symbol for my lights on the symbol panel does work.

    thanks heather
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    not sure why you lost dash ligts at night - check the dimmer switch rotate knob or wheel to full - may be turned all the way down to no lights. was thinking - you could jumper the check engine light to the oil light - just to see if it lights - then check engine light would light and go OFF then you start the engine - probably the same as it should work during an inspection - if you know what I mean. ;o) -
  • suzidogsuzidog Member Posts: 2
    edited March 2012
    Two weeks ago while we were driving out T&C, the horn started honking, the lights started flashing, and the wipers started with the windshiled washing fluid squirting. We pulled over, turned it off, and restarted. Everything was fine until last night. About 10 minutes after we parked and shut the car off, --while the car was OFF, the horn started started beeping, the back hatch lifted, the lights flashed, the wipers --front and back--were going, and the washer fluid was squirting. The doors had locked themselves. We tried to start the car, and it made odd noises that went away when we gave it some gas. We shut the car off, and everything was back to normal...for about five minutes. Everthing started going off again, except the back hatch didn't open. This time, the key fob would not unlock the door. We used the spare fob to get it unlocked, restarted, and back to quiet. Today, it is at the garage. They said they never heard of this happening. Anyone have any ideas?????
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    sounds like a problem with the security system - many times a sliding door needs to be adjusted so switch in the door works properly - check alignment and closing of the doors and switches in the door/s
  • hlp1973hlp1973 Member Posts: 6
    i had trouble finding this sight again to see if i had anymore replys, finally came back acrossed it thankfully.

    my husband and i were thinking the same thing about toggling the wire from oil lamp over to check engine being how oil lamp works and they are side by side. my husband is very good with electrical stuff...but on laptops and what not he can take them appart and rebuild them...but a car is different before he adventures to do this do you have any sudjestions on how we should do it?
  • hlp1973hlp1973 Member Posts: 6
    @ rpual3 which fuse would i check for the check engine light? do all the lights on symbol cluster operate off the same fuse? the other lights are working so should i even bother with this?

    is there a relay for the check engine light?

    i went to the part store yesturday to see if they had any sudgestions on what i could try, to no surprise they did not have any ideas. i had them read my codes and discovered i have a damn code "target idle not reached" what the hell i thought i had all the codes gone. i just replaced some idle sensor (i think egr valve or something) a few weeks ago and had to have them adjust my idle a few times, they get it just right and poof a day or two later and it is back to a roough sounding idle...any idears on what could cause this? any hoses i should replace? how about the air filter probally could use one of those i am sure but would a clogged one cause a "target idle not reached " code to come up?
  • hlp1973hlp1973 Member Posts: 6
    i did not see a dimmer switch for the dashboard lights.

    i tried what you said and connected the oil light and check engine light together and guess what the appearence of them working looked great but it still failed. no codes came up..only because i did repairs after repairs until all codes were gone.

    the mechanic who did the inspection said that the obd failed but no coeds where found.

    any idears?
  • hlp1973hlp1973 Member Posts: 6
    does the mil have a separate wire that connects to the obd? anyone have an idea on what color it is? where do i find the ground wire for the check engine light, what color is it?

    i have two fuse boxes one under the dash and one under the hood, the one under the dash says what all the fuses are for but the one under the hood does not indicate what each fuse is for i see that a few relays are missing but was told that could be for power windows and cruise control which i do not have.

    my obd reads codes... fixed them all so i know that it works, but the mil does not read it does not even come on when i first turn the key . my obd failed inspection today, he could not tell me why he said the good thing is i do not have any codes... little does he know i just spent over 600 in sensor repairs in the past 3-4 months to clear all codes.

    we did the usual repairs..... replaced bulb and cluster and still no light.
  • rpaul3rpaul3 Member Posts: 14
    so same old problem - but did it pass ?
  • reonreon Member Posts: 19
    Regarding the dash lights:

    Regarding your dashboard lights, if your van is the same as my parent's 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan, then there is a dimmer switch that is the same switch for the interior lighting. If it is turned to the left, the interior lights go out and the dash dims. If you spin it 3/4 to the right, the dash gets brighter, and all the way turns on your interior lights. It is located at the bottom left side of the steering wheel.
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