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Comments
Could be the rear u-joint
Could be a bad bushing on the rear control arms
-mike
Please help.
Brendan.
-mike
For some reason on my first two tanks of gas after the service my mileage was very low down to less than 12 mpg when I usually get 15 in the city.
Is there anything that the shop could have done or missed that could have caused this problem?
Thanks
Thanks :confuse:
-mike
How do you get the cap off the clutch master reservoir? I'm not much of a gearhead, but consider myself handy enough to change oil and check fluid levels. I have a '94 Trooper S, and I can't get the cap off the reservoir!! Do you need a special tool or something? I've tourqed it every way I can think and it's not coming off.
Thanks for humoring me.
-mike
Renee
Thanks
I'm looking to answer a couple questions today while my parents' Trooper (a vehicle I owned for its first 7 years) is being evaluated at a local independent shop.
1998 Trooper with TOD, approx 130k miles, good mechanical condition.
1. Does the following sound like a transmission problem?
2. If so, what if anything can be done to fix the problem?
3. How much would YOU sink into trans work on a vehicle that is probably worth $3,000-4,000 tops? The body is in decent shape but there's a small dent above right rear taillight and some rust under the bottom of the rear window. Interior - everything still works including the 6 CD changer and the cloth upholstery is in really good shape for a 9 year old vehicle.
BACKGROUND:
Few weeks ago, Dad has Trooper transmission serviced. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe the shop did a power flush blow out old fluid using a machine, etc.) against my recommendation. Only prior trans service was a drain adn fill around 70k miles.
Past few days, Mom reports vehicle driving funny. I drove it briefly on Saturday, and there's definitely something wrong. Vehicle lurches accelerating from 20 to 40mph and at higher speeds, says Dad. Also notice a pretty loud whomping recurrent noise from rear axle/wheels. Not sure if this whole thing might be some sort of brake issue, or multiple issues (seems unlikely), or what.
Thanks in advance for the help. I really love this truck even though it isn't mine any more, and I'm hoping it can be made right without breaking the bank.
thanks in advance for any replies...
I have a 2001 Trooper with 101K miles on it. it's been running great and I just had a few 'routine' maintenance items taken care of.
spark plugs
air filter
fuel filter
pcv valve
timing belt
water pump
serpentine belt
egr valve
so, I'm driving home today and everything is fine. I have a 20 miles commute that is a mix of highway and side road. I exit the highway and have approx 1 mile left to get home and the check transmission light comes on. Also, when I press the gas pedal I heard and clicking sound coming from underneath and could no accelerate past 30 mph.
I made it home and parked it in the driveway.....
And ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Rich
GOOD LUCK!!!
The next day as I was driving the trans started making a loud "buzzing" sound in 3rd gear which at first was intermittent but became more frequent over the course of a couple days. I have called the shop again and was told to bring it in for another test drive. I am now concerned that all the transmission test drives which I've been told are hard on an engine because of necessary revving procedures done during those rides combined with the Trooper 3 series engines not have a great reputation is going to lead to other problems. Also, as a younger man I worked as a helper at an auto repair shop and learned that some shop owners are only so honest, occasionally when a vehicle became a liability the vehicle was abused to the point of developing an unrelated problem that would not be worth repairing. From what I understand a JASPER transmission is supposed to be the "Gold Standard" of re-manufactured transmissions, I guess there are exceptions to every rule.
That's about the most ignorant design I've seen.
Now with that off my chest, the question I have is why do the rubber ends on the spark plug wires keep coming off, & remain stuck around the spark plug, in a manner that you have to "fish" them out with a clothes-hanger ? This is VERY aggrivating, when the plugs are so far into the motor, you can't reach them with your fingers, or any other tools for that matter. Could somebody explain to me why this happens ???
As to your question, even conventional spark plug boots stick to the plug after time. The trick is to use dielectric silicone grease on the inside of the boot BEFORE putting it on the plug. This insures it will not affect performance and the boot will detach from the plug more easily. the grease is available at auto parts stores. Sometimes a slow, twisting pulling motion will help break the hold of the boot on the plug. I believe the heat and proximity of the boot to the plug cause this bonding to occur. Most owners manuals suggest that the boot be twisted on the plug to free them before attempting to remove the boot from the plug. Hope this helps.
I went through the drill when I replaced mine a couple of years ago. Use compressed air from a source such an a little 12 volt inflater or a real compressor. I used one of those little tapered attachments you might use for inflating an air mattress. Insert in the center hole where the plug is at the bottom of the stuck boot...a little burst of air pressure and the rubber boot pops right off.
I pulled and twisted and could not get the last one off...after 2 evenings of that and driving with 5 new and 1 old plug, I finally came up with that method. Don't want to break or tear one of the boots since I have been told you can only buy the complete coil over package that includes the boot.
Bill
I have a 1999 Isuzu Trooper. I've had the starter replaced three times in the last year. Any suggestions to what is causing this?
Bill
Have you had any problems with your engine, specifically with the rod bearings?
miles it seems fine. I know it burns the oil, but it never smokes.
Is your engine a 3.5?
thanks,
Chuck Origer
the code, drove it about 100 miles but the check engine light still comes on,
with the same code po141 which is the bank 2 sensor, and this is the only
code that shows up-------- any advice would be helpful thanks
Is this a common problem with the Isuzu transmission - losing all gears, grinding (will not engage) with clutch in or out? Synchros?
Thanks, any information is appreciated.
JL