Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    bit: but you changed it, just like me. I have a 205/60R15 spare on an OE steel wheel in the wife's 2002 Legacy L (last year of the 15" rim).

    Larry: two questions - what year? And what tranny?

    There might be some Phase I vs. Phase II differences, but even more likely, auto tranny models have oil coolers standard (cool, eh?), so the oil filter mount might look different and even be in a slightly different location.

    Blocks are both similar EJ25s.

    -juice
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    Having added the OEM oil filter to my '01 Forester S+ MT, I can answer Larry's question, I think. The OEM oil cooler bolts between the block and the oil filter - the bottom of the oil cooler becomes the new mount point for the filter.

    The oil cooler itself is a heat exchanger nearly identical in size to the oil filter. With it installed, the bottom of the oil filter is about even with the bottom of the oil pan, otherwise the filter is tucked up closer to the engine block by the length of a filter. Coolant lines run from the heat exchanger to the passenger side block drain located right next to the oil filter and the thermostat housing cover on the lower radiator hose.

    It's an easy add-on for anyone driving a MT 2.5 - you couldn't ask for better access. Ours is a phase II. YMMV if you've got a phase I, I'm not familiar with that engine.

    We added it because we tow a camper (and because I think it ought to be standard on all engines, personally).

    hth,

    -brianV
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Anybody know if an oil cooler like that might be available for the XT? It (and the Baja turbo) uses a considerably smaller oil filter, so I'd think a cooler for the X/XS would not interchange.
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    I can't imagine a turbo engine NOT having an oil cooler...

    Who can confirm that the 2.5T has an OEM oil cooler standard ?

    -brianV
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It may have more oil capacity, plus remember it's intercooled, which surely helps disperse heat.

    What's funny is the auto is rated to tow 2000 lbs, while the 5 speed can tow 2400 lbs, and it's the auto that gets the cooler standard.

    -juice
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Juice,

    Both cars are MY03, both are automatics both are stock units from the factory, so that's why I expected them to be exactly alike.

    Larry
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The auto Forester has the oil cooler, I bet the auto Outback does not, then.

    -juice
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Juice - I'm sure you're right about that. I'll double check her owner's manual re: towing weight. I'd look again on my Forester, but that should have been my last oil change before my new XT gets here.

    Larry
  • gmginsfogmginsfo Member Posts: 116
    Just got back from a great two weeks in IL-IN-MI, where they're having one of the nicest Summers I've ever seen since I left there to move to CA 25 years ago. The only bad thing about the trip was the Mitsubishi Lancer rental I drove; really made me appreciate the power and stability of my '03 Forester XS upon my return to SD. I also missed the sunroof more than I expected and the driver's seat in that damn car gave me a real pain in the rear! Serves me right for being such a tightwad.

    How's that soundproofing project coming along? I'm curious to hear the results and apply those that might make sense for me, especially when it comes time to replacing tires, which will still be a while since I'm just coming up on 4K. I was pleased to see that the roof rack's cross rails are to go, as they did before I even drove off my dealer's lot. With the room for my bike in the cargo area, I've no use for them and their noise AT ALL!

    Re: fog lights, I could never figure out why they come on in conjunction with, instead of, regular beams. Not with high beams, sure, but I think regular beams destroy their utility just as well. Any thoughts?

    My stereo upgrade remains a work in progress. The Polks are installed in all four doors along with the tweeter kit near the mirrors and the 200W 4-channel Power Acoustik amp is tucked under the shotgun seat. If I'd do it again, I'd put it under the driver's seat, since there's less chance of it being knocked by someone's feet back there in that already cramped space, thanks to my own long legs. Adjusting its output and tuning it is taking some time, though, and if my tastes ran to rap, I could crank out some serious bass with that unit. But right now the installers are getting the balances and faders properly set, so once that's done I'll be able to provide a proper report.

    Haven't tested my own mileage yet, but it was nice to pay under $1.40 a gallon for a change while I was back in the Midwest. $1.55 is a rare find in the world of SD gas prices.

    To the guy who's moving from CA to Hyde Park: check out the NW Indiana Subaru dealers. Probably closer to you than most outside Chicago, and definitely less expensive, thanks to lower taxes and overhead. Take a ride down US 41 to Schererville and Merrillville and you should be able to find a few nestled among the White Castles along the way.
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    gmginsfo says, "Re: fog lights, I could never figure out why they come on in conjunction with, instead of, regular beams. Not with high beams, sure, but I think regular beams destroy their utility just as well."

    Proper foglights ought to have both the wide, low, sharply-cutoff beam pattern AND sufficient power to reach out a reasonable distance. They would indeed work better with the main headlamps off.

    However, I have yet to find any factory-installed foglights with the requisite power and range. Running on them alone, I think you'd be seriously overdriving your lights at anything much above 20-30 mph. Therefore, it's probably not a bad thing that the weak foglights can't be used by themselves.

    jb
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    As a test, try covering your headlamps with something completely opaque, and then driving with only your factory-installed foglights. If yours are like most, you'll have hardly any range at all.

    jb
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    My experience has been that they're a waste of money.

    Bob
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Every factory-installed foglight I've seen was a look-good gimmick. Too bad, too. They could just as easily be genuinely functional.

    jb
  • subasuba Member Posts: 12
    My '01 S has just had its 30K work done.The idle is at the mark 1 below the 1K rpm mark and occasionally it's 2 marks below. What should be the idling rpm and is the "computer-set" idling figure too low?
    Thanks,
    Walter
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    -suba: That's right where ours runs, in fact, in real hot, dry weather, it'll drop as low as 400 rpms per the tach once it's warm. Never stumbles. Runs great.

    -brianV
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Doe anybody make xenon or halogen foglamps, and if so, are they any better?

    Bob
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Bob, virtually every foglamp bulb I know is halogen. I haven't heard of any xenon-pumped halogen bulbs (along the lines of the Osram Silverstar or Philips VisionPlus headlamp bulbs) but that would be nice.

    jb
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    Hi Forester Folks!

    We have a financially strapped friend with a '98 Forester in dire need of new tires, we're talking way past the wear bars into the bald territory. They are 205 70R15, IIRC.

    I recently upgraded our TS's wheels to WRX wheels, and I'm wondering if:

    -Our OEM TS wheels will fit our friends Forester? (pretty sure this won't work since offset for Forester = +48mm & TS = +55mm, from a previous post by Hypov) TS = 6" wide rim, FWIW.

    -Option #2: Sell her just the TS tires (195 60R15) to be mounted on her OEM Forester wheels, and keep our TS rims for some snow tires later. I know the circumference and sidewall are different... other than changing gearing and speedometer and odometer... will this even work? Any other problems or downsides? It'll probably look kinda funny, but sliding off the road or blowing out a tire would be worse.

    Thanks for any feedback!

    utahsteve
  • subkidsubkid Member Posts: 94
    Hi,

    yes, I was that unfortunate to wrack my right fog light (5 days old car). Plastic housing is gone and it looks like metal piece that holds it in place and provide for adjustments is bent. So what are my options now. Is it a specific Subaru part that I have to go to dealer, and what kind of money am I looking into? Or, can it be obtained from other sources?

    Thks.

    Kid
  • joseph50joseph50 Member Posts: 235
    Someone here reported something to the effect that Consumer Reports claimed that, within a particular tire type, all tires of that type have the same traction at half life, no matter what special construction or tread configuration is touted to sell the tire in the first place.
    Did I read/remember that correctly? Is there a exact CR issue that can be cited so I can look it up for myself?
    Thank you.
  • 03xngreen03xngreen Member Posts: 36
    gmginsfo,
    Mind if I ask where you take your car for service, and are you happy with them?

    Anyone else in the San Diego area have a recommendation? Thanks.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    Regarding traction, the above statement is true on DRY pavement, but you get into wet conditions and things change quickly. The ability of a tire to maintain traction in water is directly related to how well it channels away water. Channeling water (not a new age phenomenom :) ) is related to how much tread is left on a tire.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would not use the TS rims and tires. The rims would fit any pre-2003 Forester. In 2003, the bigger brakes required 16" rims.

    Still, you're lowering gearing by 8%. That will hurt gas mileage, and it will rev high on the freeway.

    Whatever savings they have on tires will cost them in gas in the long run, not to mention more wear and tear. Plus it'll lost a lot of clearance, and look just plain silly in those huge wheel wells.

    I was going to suggest lightly used tires, but even then, with AWD it's important to match sizes closely, so no, I wouldn't even recommend that.

    Call Tire Rack and Discount Tire Direct, ask for their generic tires. Overall you'll do better with those vs. TS tires or used ones, IMO.

    -juice
  • erictooleyerictooley Member Posts: 13
    Howdy, folks.

    My soundproofing project is progressing more gradually than I would have hoped, but I'll have some data to post this weekend.

    Summary of work done so far:
    o Removed roof rack cross bars
    o 3 coats of QuietCoat on the cargo area floor
    o 3 coats of QuietCoat under rear seat
    o 2 coats of QuietCoat on underside of hood

    Details: Cross bars
    It was easy to remove the cross bars: Subaru provides the required Torx wrench in the tool bag with the lug nut wrench. They're currently living in my storage unit.

    Details: Cargo area floor
    I removed the spare tire cover and the left and right-side floor pieces. They're held in place by plastic clips and require a little tug to get them off. I didn't manage to remove the forward-most floor piece (the "umbrella holder"): it seemed quite securely attached, and I didn't want to break the styrofoam. I also removed the plastic trim that surrounds the rear hatch strike plate.

    Details: Rear seat
    The rear seat in the Forester is secured by one bolt on either side (behind your calves if you’re sitting), plus a hook at the back center of the seat cushion. Simply unscrew the bolts, lift the front of the seat cushion, and push the seat back and down to release the hook. Once you lift the cushion out of the way (it’s light and fits in the cargo area), you’ll see both bare metal and some asphalt melt-sheets. You’ll also find 2 holes in the sheet metal covered by thin, black plastic dots, plus a bit of wiring. I lifted the wiring out of the way, but covered the entire surface with the QuietCoat.

    Details: Hood
    Using a paint scraper cushioned with electrical tape, I popped off the 9 plastic buttons that secure the heat shield to the underside of the hood. I then applied two coats of QuietCoat to the entire surface, including those areas not covered by the heat shield, and then reinstalled it. I did the hood for the heck of it, really: most of the time, engine noise is drowned out by wind and road noise, and coating the firewall would have had more affect on the cabin (but way more complex than I’m willing to attempt).

    QuietCoat: Usage notes
    It’s viscous and thick. The first coat creates a “thirsty” surface for subsequent coats (a plus). Use a drop cloth when coating an under-surface such as the hood. The color is dark gray. Stray glops can be blotted out of carpet with a wet rag if you act quickly. According to the manufacturer, you must allow 4 hours between coats, and then 7 days for curing and maximum sound reduction.

    Decibel measurements:
    I purchased a digital sound meter and found a lousy stretch of freeway in San Jose: 280 between 87 and 101. Concrete, grooved, potholed, your basic noise nightmare. Pre-project sound measurements ranged widely with the changes in pavement quality, but averaged between 78 and 80.5 db. This is quite high, I realize, and much higher than magazine tests of the Forester (which are probably run on better pavement in controlled conditions). But it’s my real-life drive, and I’m trying to improve life on the street, not in the lab. I’ll take new measurements this weekend and post them.

    Pending project: QuietCoat on the doors
    I still plan to remove the interior door panels and apply QuietCoat to the sheet metal, but I had trouble removing the door handle trim and lost my nerve, not wanting to damage the interior trim. Can anyone offer advice and encouragement?

    That’s all for now…

    Eric
  • gmginsfogmginsfo Member Posts: 116
    03xngreen, no service yet, other than an oil change at 1500, which I got for free as part of a welcome wagon move-in package. The place was on B'way in Chula Vista and the folks were friendly and fast and because of that I'll probably take it back there for the 3000 change. Can't remember the name of the place but know where it is and will post its name next time I drive by.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    awesome documentation. Thanks for the update, I have been contemplating similar measures on my '03 XS. It sounds (no pun intended :)) like the rear seat project has the most potential, given your observations?

    John
  • ffsteveffsteve Member Posts: 243
    I take mine to Balboa, which is convenient to work etc. Regular oil changes and 30k service have not caused any complaints.

    I don't necessarily like that the shop has to service Dodges, Hyundais, and something else besides the Subarus, but the service writers are attentive and the work has been good.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Nice update, Eric. The speaker covers pop right off, that's as far as I've gone. From there, though, you can probably see a little bit, and proceed.

    Try using a cargo cover, too. Maybe measure the same stretch with the cover open, and then closed.

    -juice
  • njswamplandsnjswamplands Member Posts: 1,760
    eric nice detail, look forward to next measurements
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    rsholland Aug 4, 2003 10:57pm

    Bob-
    I'm 85% sure Hella has them in the form of the Xenon Micro DE in Foglight version. I have this in Driving Light version mounted in the grille and had used them in fog condition during my trip up to mike's cabin in Caroga Lake. From a scale of 1 to 10, I would rate the denseness as a 7. With the HID it appears that I gained ~20ft visibility over the stock head/fog light combo. Despite of the curtain of mist being emphasized I was able to see the road and detect objects more distinctively.

    -Dave
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    Thanks, Juice. I think we've talked her into doing exactly what you suggested, some inexpensive tires. I cringed when I saw how worn hers are now, I hope she does something soon.

    Too bad I'm not looking to sell my OB tires or wheels, those would fit nicely :)

    utahsteve
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    "the speaker covers pop right off, that's as far as I've gone. From there, though, you can probably see a little bit, and proceed."
     
    Whoa! On the 03, the speaker grilles are molded into the door panel, and not removeable.

    --

    This ought to help with door panel removal:

    http://content.subarunet.com/snet/business/fixedops/guides/Forest- er_2003MY_Speaker_Upgrade_Kit_IxI.pdf

    The hardest part is getting the trim ring off from around the door handle lever. Based on experience with other Subarus, I've found it's sometimes easier to loosen up the whole lever assembly (there's a hidden screw) and wiggle it loose as the door panel is lifted away from the frame. And if you happen to break a trim ring (common), they are about $3-4 each from the dealer. I ordered a set of them for my WRX before installing new speakers, and needed to use 1 to replace a ring that cracked.

    Good luck!

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yikes! My bad. I was referring to my '98, please do not try to pry those off! :oO

    I wonder if paisan still has my old tires, they were worn but not nearly bald. He wanted the rims, and may still have the tires.

    -juice
  • srosssross Member Posts: 33
    I saw a couple of reviews that liked the Forester but implied that the A/C wasn't really powerful enough to make a dent in >90 degree weather. I used to have a 96 Accord that would only just begin to cool down about 15-20 minutes into my commute home from work, while the car I have now puts out a lot of cold air very quickly. Would the Forester be more like my old Accord?
  • forestergumpforestergump Member Posts: 119
    My '99 Forester's A/C works fine here in the steamy Chicago summers. I do remember that the summer after I first purchased it, I had to have the freon refilled (I think Subaru didn't fill it all the way out of the factory), but since then it has worked perfectly. YMMV
  • njswamplandsnjswamplands Member Posts: 1,760
    hasnt been above 90F yet in nj due to all of the rain but it has been very steamy in the 80s and the a/c is very strong, having to turn it down quickly after firing it up to high.
  • earthwomanearthwoman Member Posts: 47
    I had to laugh when I read that a reviewer wrote that the A/C in the Forester isn't adequate for 90 degree plus weather. I live in the Sacramento Valley in California. Last month we had 17 days over 100 degrees. A few of those days were over 110. I park my MY03 Forester in a black top Park N Ride lot that has no trees big enough to shade a car. The temp gauge on my car routinely reads 115-118 outside temperature when I get off the commuter bus. I can only imagine the interior temp is higher, even with the shade I put in the window. I don't have tinted windows (yet).

    The Forester A/C is so powerful that before I get home (3 miles and 5 minutes away) I am turning it down because I am too cold.

    No problems with this Forester A/C. I rarely use it at full power even when it is over 100 because it is simply too cold to do so.

    Hope this info helps.

    Rebecca
  • srosssross Member Posts: 33
    For all your help on the A/C. I can't wait to buy a Forester XT now, once I get my finances in line.
    Don't get swelled heads, but this has got to be the friendliest and most helpful boards on Edmunds. Much less posturing and bickering than on some of the other cars I've been looking at. Here's hoping that a happy board reflects very satisfied owners.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Haly: get some tin snips, they are like sturdy scissors that can cut through that plastic easily. Use those to cut an access hole for the filter, if you want. Or just leave the plastic cover off, like Colin mentioned. Or get the skid plate. Or do nothing!

    Lots of options. :o)

    The Fumoto is tempting. With the nipple and some plastic tubing, you could drain the oil right into a recycling container. But you still have the oil filter's mess to deal with.

    -juice
  • speterson1speterson1 Member Posts: 228
    I've found our 2001 Forester's A/C to be adequate, but it isn't super-cold like many others on this board have said. I live in central Illinois and it gets above 90 frequently in the summer, with killer humidity (although this summer has been beautiful and mild by comparison).

    I would say if you live in a climate that is really hot and you're going to be using your A/C a lot, look into tinted windows. I don't have tinted windows but I know many others here do and it helps a great deal in cooling the interior.

    Interesting post forestergump, I'll have to have our Subie's freon level checked next time I take it in for service, perhaps ours is just low too.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    DC is hot and humid in the summer, my A/C does fine. I usually set the fan speed to 1. Some times 2-3 on a really bad day when there are passengers in the rear seat.

    On 4 you'll have icicles dangling from your nose. I only use it to cool down the interior quickly after sitting in the sun, baking.

    I do have tinted windows, that helps some. But I also have a moonroof with no sunshade, to offset the tint.

    I don't want my head to swell because my bald spot would get bigger! LOL

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I just purchased Kumho tires for my 01 OB at $52 each and these are H rated. They came highly recommended by TR and buddies at work. You can try Yokohamas also.

    Greg
  • jtm4jtm4 Member Posts: 60
    Our '98 Forester AC has worked great since day one. I live in SE Texas and today we're pushing the record of 101. We have the heat plus the humidity and our AC has always kept us comfortable. I usually set my fan speed at 1. My wife likes it set at 2. We do have tinted windows. I'm sure that's a significant part of the equation.

    Jim
  • sfarinaccisfarinacci Member Posts: 10
    I had posted something back in November regarding a hesitation with the Forester. Back then the dealer said they were aware of the problem and were coming up with a fix. Haven't heard anything about it and my car is still doing it. Anyone else have this problem?
  • ohsubeguyohsubeguy Member Posts: 21
    I have a '99 Forester that has 72K miles on it. I'm noticing temperature flucuations on the temp guage. Is this likely the thermostat? How big a job is it to replace the thermostat? The dealer is telling me its a big deal and its a lot of work. Is this true or not?

    OHSubeGuy
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    AC in our 03 XS is very good, and that means a lot coming from me (seems like I am always warm). It's so good, my wife and I are continuously fighting over the temp knob... I like it around 70-72, she likes it around 80 (we do the same thing at home).

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Also price Nitto tires at:

    http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.jsp

    I'm not sure if they have that size (70 series), but have her check. I'm happy with my NT460 tires, so long as you don't get much snow.

    No idea on the thermostat, anyone done this before?

    -juice
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Long Term Road Test has been updated in case you missed it when it went live last week.

    Steve, Host
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    I haven't had to replace my thermostat ('01 S+ MT), but I did install the OEM oil cooler, which involved draining the cooling system and replacing the theromostat cover, among other things.

    Your dealer is pulling your leg. You'll need a maximum of 1/2 hour for this job, and access couldn't be better.

    If I'm not mistaken, you have the same phase II 2.5 engine that I have. If so, the thermostat is mounted on the lower radiator hose on the bottom of the engine. Drain the radiator, remove the cover bolts, swap out the thermostat, close-up and refill the cooling system. You're done. You don't even need to put the car up on Rhino ramps.

    When I refilled, I ran the heater on high and let the engine warm up to "burp" the system (you want the thermostat to open in order to pump the antifreeze through the engine). I checked the expansion tank regularly for a couple of weeks to make sure it wasn't low.

    Definately a DIY option, if you're so inclined.

    -brianV
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The big difference between rear fogs left on and front fogs left on is that when I'm in front of you I can rearrange my mirrors to block them out. When you leave on a rear fog there is no way for me to not have it in my face....

    -mike
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