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Chevy Tracker Starting and Stalling Problems

2

Comments

  • scot223scot223 Member Posts: 8
    I believe it had something to do with steering and not this problem of start stopping
  • scot223scot223 Member Posts: 8
    My daughter is taking it to the shop on Monday after having the problem of not starting and finally re-starting after a few minutes, usually 10 minutes, then starts as always. I hope this cam sensor solves the pain and frustration of this strange problem
  • scot223scot223 Member Posts: 8
    Well, the final cost from the Cam Sensor was $288. I hope this ends her frustration, since this is the only thing that has ever went wrong with this baby SUV.
  • palkopalko Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2004 Chevy Tracker 2.5L V-6 with 62000 miles on it that is starting to have a cold rough start problem when it sits for( lets say) 2 days. The engine feels like it is only firing on less than 6 cylinders. Then it smoothes out quickly. I haven't changed out the plugs yet (manual says 60000 miles). Once warmed up this thing runs and starts normal. I've tried STP fuel additive to remove any water. Any ideas? Do I need to get it to a shop for an OBD-2 scan?..thanks
  • crossbonescrossbones Member Posts: 4
    I see the cam sensor seems to very in price from $72-$350 what is the difference
    and how many different sensors are there?
  • xcaligurlxcaligurl Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a 2003 Tracker and after having it 3 days I drove 30 miles with AC off filled the tank drove home 30 miles with AC on got in the driveway shut off car, maybe five minutes got back in, car would not start acted like it was out of gas. Waited about 15 minutes got in it started no problem. Took the car in to mechanic not throwing any codes mechanic could not recreate (dont think he really tried). Second time drove 30 some miles again AC off,on way home AC on got back into town another 30 miles filled up the tank within minutes the car was coughing like it was out of gas had to push it four block to get it home. Again after it cooled started no problem. Second trip to mechanic still not throwing code. Changed fuel filter put some fuel cleaner in. Said that would fix it. (Myself thinking nahuh) Third time. Drove it approximatley 10 miles with AC on shut it off went to start it up wouldnt start just like it was out of gas. Finally got it cooled and started made it almost home and started coughing like out off gas again. Cough, Die, ect. Mechanic now says it is the catalytic converter. Well I read online that a clogged converter is a symptom not the actual cause and if we dont fix the underlying cause it will just happen again. Any suggestions? It has already gotten expensive considering this is a new used car to me but Id rather just take care of it all now instead of every weeking taking it in again for more $s I dont have. I would appreciate any help! Thanks! Sharon
  • crossbonescrossbones Member Posts: 4
    It sounds like you are having the same problem. Everything I have read seems to indicate the problem is with the cam sensor. They are saying the cost runs from $30 to $500
  • scot223scot223 Member Posts: 8
    Ever since we replaced the cam-sensor she has not had any problems. It has nothing to do with AC or Catalytic converter. The job cost us under $275 if I remember, and no more problems. They are dependable cars and she makes short runs around town and back and forth from VA to NJ. With peace of mind driving. The cam-sensor was the answer and after going to "3" dealerships...I found the answer here. Good Luck
  • crossbonescrossbones Member Posts: 4
    thank you xcaligurl i will try it
  • xcaligurlxcaligurl Member Posts: 3
    Thank you both for your responses. After dealing with the mechanic that was going to rip me off I called around and took it to some else. Within the hour they told me the cam sensor which is going to run like 450 with Labor and once they fixed that they did indeed say I need new converters. Not really so bad when you find out the EPA passed a law in 96 that states if your Cat converter goes out and the vehicle is less then 8 years or 80,000 miles it is covered under warranty. >>:O~) You just take it into a chevy dealer. So needless to say I am almost a happy camper. Just a few more days and I will have my car back! Thanks again!
  • ken_myersken_myers Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 2.0 Tracker had the same problem. Ordered a new Cam Position Sensor. Problem solved. Same exact symptoms as you describe. Be careful when you pull the old one. You will have to set the timing on the new one! Good Luck.
  • rep5858rep5858 Member Posts: 45
    I have a 1996 Tracker. It stalls, not all the time, right after I start it. Must ride gas pedal to keep up rpm's or it will stall. Then sometimes it maintains about 600 rpm's but not often. There is no fast idle when cold , runs at low rpms all the time at idle and at drive
    anyone know what this could be?
    thanks
  • xcaligurlxcaligurl Member Posts: 3
    Could be the 02? Most mechanics will hook it up diagnostic for a minimal fee. The problem with mine wasit was not spitting codes.
  • utefan76utefan76 Member Posts: 2
    I recently took a 98' Tracker off of my fathers hands. He has never had a problem with it other than a minor oil leak. I take it over, it runs great, but as soon as I come to a stop it doesn't go. I push the gas pedal and nothing. I have to wait a minute or so until it kicks back in. Anybody know what is causing this? Please let me know. Greatly appreciate all the feed back. Thanks.
  • daveomdaveom Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem. Some one on this forum suggested the Cam Positioning Sensor. I changed it and I have not had a problem since.
  • eslinger25eslinger25 Member Posts: 1
    I bet you have a bad camshaft position sensor. This seems to be a VERY common issue with these 2.0 trackers and suzukis. The next time it gets hot, try pouring some water on the sensor to cool it down. The sensor is located on the driver's side ( in the engine compartment) mounted directly to the back of the cylinder head. It is a big aluminum piece with a black pick-up sensor mounted to it. If you read more on this website, you'll find out some more about this problem. Mine done it and all you have to do is figure out a way to keep that sensor cool, and the problems are gone. Some people have replaced the sensors, but once the new one gets hot, it does the same thing again.
  • utefan76utefan76 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 chevy tracker. It won't start for crap. It almost starts, sounds like it's wants gas. I just changed the fuel filter, and same result. No starting. Could it be the fuel pump:? Please anyone if you can give me some info that would be great. I don't want to take it to a mechanic, too expensive, unless I have to. Sounds like I may have to.
  • magnum35magnum35 Member Posts: 6
    About a month ago my Tracker started stalling on me, at first it would start right away but gradually got to the point it would have to sit for at least 30 minutes before it would restart. I took it to the Chevy dealer, they had it for 3 days and couldnt figure out what was wrong, no engine codes were present. I did some research on it and found this site and learned about the cam position sensor. After learning that the sensor getting too hot it would fail I tried running some tests of my own on the vehical with interesting results. Trying to get the truck to fail on its own without taking it out of town seemed impossible, so I let it reach full running temp in the driveway and set a hair dryer right onto the sensor to simulate the extra heat from the engine while driving, after about an hour it failed, and wouldnt restart. Let it sit for awhile (about 45 minutes) and it restarted. I did some searching for the part which I found that most part stores in this area cant even order the part, I found two places that could order it, Napa and Autozone. I found something interesting at Napa, turns out there is a part called a Crankshaft Sensor/Camshaft Syncronizer. Its the same part for just over half the price, I bought it for $264.00 I changed it myself, about a 10 minute job. Napa told me to mark the old sensor with a marker and transfere it to the new part for reinstallation the computer will time itself as long as its close, I wouldnt totally recommend this, use a mark to get it close to where the old one was but use a timing light to time it right, just a few degrees off time can cause a misfire and cause damage to the emission system. Because the 2.5L V6 has no ignition wires it made it a trick to hook up a timing light, but by using a Craftsman timing light and attaching the ignition pickup on the wire harness right tight to the #1 ignition coil over the spark plug did allow the timing light to work. On the 2.5L the timing was 5' +TDC you are allowed 2 degree's +or- by the books but I suggest getting it as close as possible to 5 degree's, which will prevent the spark advance from causing a misfire at higher rpm's. As a prevenative measure for a future failure I installed a inline 12V DC air blower and mounted it to the driver side fender well with flexable plastic hose, directed right onto the top of the sensor blowing air downward to disapate heat down the firewall and under the vehical. I wired it into switched power. Cost about $50.00 to install. Cause of the remote location of the sensor it cannot get proper air flow to keep the sensor from overheating. It has been running excellent ever since.
  • crossbonescrossbones Member Posts: 4
    that was the problem with my 03 tracker replaced the sensor have not had a problem since.
  • patriciadpatriciad Member Posts: 2
    replaced camshaft sensor ($500)starting problem solved; engine wanted to stall and ran rough, injectors flushed through rail ($150), problem solved; also, my kind Chevy dealer replaced NO CHARGE the catalytic converter (runs about $1600) since this code showed up and he said it would have to be done eventually. (this is warranteed by law for up to five years or 80K miles.
    Thank you all for your help, this is a wonderful website.
    :shades:
  • bige777bige777 Member Posts: 1
    fuel consumption increased dramaticly how long is air filter good for
  • magnum35magnum35 Member Posts: 6
    Well I replace my air filter every other oil change. Did you recently change the camshaft sensor or crank sensor? If the timing is a little off from replacing either sensor can cause extra fuel consumption. If thats not the case I would be checking the oxygen sensors as well, they can cause increased fuel consumption as well. Another thing to look at too is the type of fuel you are using, gas stations are using more and more of ethinol in there fuel which doesnt get as good of fuel milage out of it. There is one gas station here where I live I try to stay away from can make as much as 3 to 5 miles per gallon difference in my tracker, just for that reason.
  • mywayhiwaymywayhiway Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 4WD 2DR 2.0L tracker generally runs fine. Though when it drops below 20 degrees it will intermittently have trouble cold starting. Once it gets in this mode it is hard to get back to normal operation.
    When it tries to start, it willl just barely cough & sputter for about 1/2 second. I've added drygas deicer, to no help & tried a few blasts of starting spray. Good strong battery and cranking.
    But what is disturbing is that about every 5th try I get a severe backfire that ocassionally blows off the air filter cover (knocks the spring clips loose).

    If I do manage to get it started, it clears its throat & runs fine for days or weeks.
    Also, I noted every time I have this trouble the gas tank is near 100% full.
  • magnum35magnum35 Member Posts: 6
    Check the timing, the backfire is a good indication that the timing may be a little off. The computer will adjust itself on timing to a certain point but if the timing gets a little off outside of its parameters it may cause problems. Also you may want to check out your timing belt for wear or missing teeth. From your message I take it there is no engine light? Hope this helps.
  • manaxrisulamanaxrisula Member Posts: 3
    engine starts but some times later (twice a day) it stops but runs imediately. few days ago I installed new air filter (the old one was very durty). what is the reason, how u think. thanks.
  • manaxrisulamanaxrisula Member Posts: 3
    I forgot to say that engine stops when I stop the car by brake and it is in D. and rounds on engine decrise and it stops :(
  • magnum35magnum35 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2003 chevy tracker with a v-6 that had the same problem, started out stalling and restarting right away then progressed to stalling and not starting for 30 minutes or better. No engine light and mechanics couldnt find the problem, did some research and found out that the camshaft position sensor would missread time and cause the engine to stall, I replaced it and no problem since. Hope this helps!
  • asylumasylum Member Posts: 1
    1996 Tracker will only start when the park or headlights are on. Once started, stalls if I turn the lights off.
  • masonbm1masonbm1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello everyone!

    I have a 1996 Tracker 127,000 miles on it, 4cy 1.6 engine.
    The vehicle starts up everytime on first start up no matter how hot or cold it never fails me. however, after driving it for awhile and engine is hot, it will want to stall or does stall out ,but starts right back up again, sometimes you will have to flutter gas petal to keep running, but once running it runs great no stutter or sputtering, just wants to stall or does,, any help would be greatly appriciated!! Thanks!
  • scot223scot223 Member Posts: 8
    This is the answer to car stalling after running for a while...My daughter broke down at the Mall, Bank and even on I-95 on her way home from Va. to NJ. Get this replaced and you will be fine...no problems in 2 years and I found the answer here where no dealer could help
  • ihatemytrackerihatemytracker Member Posts: 2
    edited September 2011
    hello to any and all mechanical experts!

    i absolutely am in desperate need to fix my ****** tracker as it brings me to and from work (i travel across ontario, so you see how important my pos is)

    i have read millions of threads on here about cam sensors overheating and have the same problem. i have already replaced this sensor, as well as fixed the fuel filter, changed the spark plugs and have spoken to a mechanic at a shop. there have been no solutions so far. right now, my boyfriend has my windshield washer resevoir hose ziptied to the top of my camshaft sensor so when it starts to act up in traffic (or anywhere for that matter) i can quickly stop it from dying on me. i know this is not the "mechanically proper way" of fixing this issue, and i cant keep leaving pee stains everywhere i go. PLEASE HELP. someone, anyone, give me some ideas. WHY IS MY CAMSHAFT SENSOR OVERHEATING?! ??!?!?!?!?!

    i am ready to pull my hair out, and my boyfriend is losing hair as i type. :lemon: I HATE THIS PROBLEM AND IT NEEDS TO STOP FOR GOOD. any suggestions????
  • ihatemytrackerihatemytracker Member Posts: 2
    :lemon: i should also tell you that the computer is reading

    KNOCK SENSOR 1 CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT BANK 1 OR SINGLE SENSOR

    WTF???????? there is no such thing in a tracker.
  • oceangirloceangirl Member Posts: 9
    I replaced my sensor, thats all. But if you do have a problem with your timing you might need to get it fixed. I didnt have to do anything put put in the new sensor, but the first one was defective so I had to do it twice. Over a year ago and so far so good.
  • oceangirloceangirl Member Posts: 9
    my first replacement was bad also, working fine over a year now did it myself.
  • oceangirloceangirl Member Posts: 9
    If I turn on A/C or step on brake and slow down, it will stall if I dont step on the gas. Was running fine, turned car off, Tried to start about 15 min. later, battery weak. Got a jump. Bought new battery. After I put in new battery, the rough idle and stalling started. Cleaned terminal ends thoroughly. Power good, lights, dash, horn ect.
  • oceangirloceangirl Member Posts: 9
    to check if its your cam sensor pour water on the sensor while its hot the immediately try to start your car. If it starts prob the sensor. behind the valve cover and cost me $80 bucks, but first replacement was bad and had to do again.
  • oceangirloceangirl Member Posts: 9
    Where is the O2 sensor located on a 2002 tracker 4 cyl. I cant find a repair manual anyone got any ideas? Hayne or Chilton dont have 2002.
  • masonbm1masonbm1 Member Posts: 2
    What sensor did you replace? all i did was turn my accelerator cable so it idles faster now, are you talking about the mass air flow sensor or the idle air control sensor?
  • greyghost14greyghost14 Member Posts: 2
    Here is my problem, when we are driving the tracker in normal traffic, ( i.e. normal flow, traffic lights, stop signs, etc.) the vehicle drives about as good as a tracker can. However, when it sits in traffic idleing or at a store idleing in park for about 10 minutes, the car won't drive. The engine bucks and heaves and coughs and is very sporadic. When you push on the gas pedal, it just won't go without bucking itself and the occupants all over the place. And when we park it after it has started doing this, the engine will shut off before we can put it in park. When we try to start it, it heaves, bucks and won't start. After about 10 minutes of letting it rest with the engine off, it starts up fine and runs normal.
    The mechanic we took it to put it on the diagnostic and and he couldn't find anything wrong with the car. The check engine light does not come on and the temperature gauge does not rise. He changed the fuel filter and we hoped that that would solve the problem. Unfortunately it did not. Five days later, after no problems, the car started doing it again. It happens regardless the time of day, as it has done this in the morning, middle of the day and in the late afternoon/early evening. It has also done this with the AC being on and off. What the hell is going on here ?? My wife had a '97 GEO tracker that was stick with a 4 cylinder engine and it NEVER did this, EVER !! Now, the '02 she's driving started doing this about a couple weeks ago. It's frustrating to say the least. The one thing we don't want to do is start replacing parts frivolously in order to chase this problem down. Does ANYONE out there have a solution for us or at least a similar story that can be shared that has gotten the problem fixed ?? Thanks in advance for the information, my wife and I both certainly appreciate it.
    P.S. - I've read people referencing the Cam shaft sensor and another sensor, but could it possibly be a bad or going bad catalytic converter ??
  • patriciadpatriciad Member Posts: 2
    they flushed the injectors through rail, whatever that means; anyway, since then car running verrrrry smoothly. $150.00+/- Good Luckl!
  • greyghost14greyghost14 Member Posts: 2
    thanks patriciad, I'll give that a try.....couldn't hurt either way.
  • hkymumhkymum Member Posts: 1
    This seems to be a common problem - my 2003 tracker started doing this in April when the weather got warm. Starts fine after sitting for a few hours but if I stop anywhere for a few minutes (even the gas station) - it won't start. Sounds like it's trying but just not firing / igniting? Mechanic can't find anything wrong. Had catalitic converter replaced in April (needed to) and a new fuel line put in at same time - still same problem. Hitting the gas doesn't always work - almost flooded the engine one day. Since I don't know cars - what does the Camshaft sensor do and how would it fix this problem?
  • missmia26missmia26 Member Posts: 1
    Hey I'm having the same issue with my 2000 Tracker it is the Camshaft Position sensor when the car runs for a while and gets hot the sensor over heats and once it cools down will start again it is especially bad when it dies after sitting in park idling for about 10-15mins :lemon: overall it's a good car just a pain in the butt to fix when it has an issue!!!
  • scot223scot223 Member Posts: 8
    It is the cam-shaft sensor...my daughter had a similar problem....put a new one in by a mechanic and NO MORE stopping and waiting to start again. This is the answer....please do not read the other posts and pour water on a running engine....Thanks
  • donramdonram Member Posts: 6
    Help needed; after removing and replacing the battery, my 2000 Tracker with 2L engine, manual Trannny, will not crank. The battery is good and there are no dimming lights when the key is turned to crank, just a single relay clic and no sound of the fuel pump.
  • lsouthwicklsouthwick Member Posts: 2
    I drove the car to work ... had a windshield replacement done ... left man to lock up car & ret'd to work. After work, the car started fine, but right away the car's Service Engine light came on in parking lot and then it started to stall whenever I slowed down. The radio won't work either. The wires to the mirror lights were left unattached by the window replacement man, so I tried to attach them hoping that some electrical current needed contact. The car will start, but won't stay running, unless I get it on the road and if I don't hit any lights or slow down it's okay, I think. This just happened yesterday. The battery is brand new. I was very low on oil, but that won't cause this problem, would it? A couple of months ago, someone found that I had a "wire"? that had come unconnected to the starter?? in the engine somewhere?? I don't know where this wire is, but he connected it and the car ran good. Is it possible this "wire" came off again? Thanks! Lorraine
  • george412george412 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 chevy tracker 2.0 4 cyl. 85000 miles on it. Drove home one night parked it when I got up the next morning wouldn't start. sounds like its out of time, pulled covers checked timing chains they are fine and in time it is getting gas and spark, has good compression. dumb founded as to what could be causing this. checked all fuses, did wiggle test on every connection I could. still won't start anyone have any idea what next step could be...
  • sueo1sueo1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2001 tracker 2.0 L engine with 80,000 miles. i had the same issue with the engine failing to start. i checked this message board, and others, and tried the water spray on the camshaft sensor and it did the trick. after performing the troubleshooting steps and confirming the sensor was bad, replaced it. runs like a champ now. there was never a check engine light nor trouble code.
  • scot223scot223 Member Posts: 8
    TRUST...Camshaft Sensor is the answer.....
  • joker772008joker772008 Member Posts: 2
    my 99 tracker 2.0 has that problem.no ck eng lite and yes it does work.has a sputter at idle and when i am on gas pedal less than 1/4.if i drive it like i am trying to blow the engine it runs fine .i swapped out the cps butt not the machinacal part that the cps bolts to.i guess its the synchronizer that bolts to back of head and cps bolts to it.does that go bad and get hot and cause problems?
    i hooked my snap on scanner mt2500 up and my timing is siting at 12* but wen the engine sputters the timing will jump to 20* and then go rite back to 12*
    plugs are good,fuel is good,all the routine stuff is good
    it kinda acts like i am flipping the key off and back on real quick within a half sec
    wud i be correct in assuming the ckps only monitors for cyl misfire and does not give a signal for spark or injecter pulse?
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