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Saab 9-5 Climate Control Questions

danysdmandanysdman Member Posts: 1
in Saab
I have a 2001 saab 95 se and half of the cars heat works the other doesnt only cold are comes out and its not a good feeling in the winter. Does anyone know how to fix that problem ? or whats wrong with it ? only the drivers side vents push cold air all others work fine even in the back.
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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Usually these vents are directed by a vacuum control or "servo" device that opens and closes various vents and conduits depending on what temp you select. So if you have heat everywhere but one vent, AND that vent is blowing cold (that is, the vent hose underneath isn't disconnected), chances are you have a vacuum leak to a servo or a jammed servo that directs warm air to that particular vent.

    So you'll need to clear a path to the servo unit that works off your heater core, I would guess. If you're adventurous, you might crawl under the dash and see if you can trace the driver's side vent back to the heater core and look for a loose vacuum line or some such. Can't really say how accessible your heater core area is on that car.
  • golfnut8golfnut8 Member Posts: 1
    I love my Saab 95 although it's mainly used around town with only the occasional long trip.

    On a long trip today I noticed that hot air was coming out of the centre console instead of cool air. It was a nice mild day with the outside temp ranging from 18C to 20C but with 18 C selected [on Auto setting] cool air was coming out of the front vents but much hotter air was coming out of the rear vent. If someone was sitting in the back seat they would be uncomfortably hot. I played around with various temp settings but couldn't stop warm air coming out of the rear vent.

    I'll check with the service agent but I wonder if anyone else has experienced this problem and has a fix?

    Incidentally the weather while quite warm was cloudy/overcast and I wonder if the sun sensor may have somehow confused the system.

    Any comments/ideas would be much appreciated.
  • djlee4djlee4 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I recently noticed a problem with my 2000 Saab 9-5 heater/fan. When I start the car "cold", the heater fan comes on and works fine as long as I'm driving. However, when I turn off the car for a few minutes to an hour (not long enough for the engine to cool?), when I restart it, the fan does not blow at all - even when I manually punch it up to max. This is very hazardous in Minnesota - tonight I had no defrost after a trip to church! Anyone seen something like this? Thoughts on what to troubleshoot?
    Thanks,
    -Jeff :cry:
  • SPYDER98SPYDER98 Member Posts: 239
    Try pressing the Auto+Off buttons simultaneously. It'll run a self diagnostic and display codes if there's any issues outside of code zero. It'll also recalibrate the system as well.

    If you see a code 08 pop up, take a deep breath before hearing the dealer estimate!!

    Google 'saab 9-5 code 08' for alternative fixes.
  • sweetseetsweetseet Member Posts: 9
    Sounds like the resistor for the fan. Not too expensive, I had the same problem.

    Good luck.
  • joncraggjoncragg Member Posts: 1
    My Saab 9-5's heater has stopped working. When it stopped, it briefly worked again after turning it off and on again but know it is only blowing out enough hot air to eventually clear a small circle at the bottom of the windscreen. I havre tried the auto and off button diagnostic check and the code " 0 " comes up on the display. Any ideas what the problem could be ?
  • eurospecialisteurospecialist Member Posts: 12
    It is what is called a bad heater box and fairly expensive $1500-$1800. it distributes the heat/air evenly throughout the passenger compartment. The parts are not that expensive, but the entire front console (climate control, stereo, transmission shifter, etc) needs to be pulled out of the car to get to it. It takes approx 12-15 hours labor.
  • eurospecialisteurospecialist Member Posts: 12
    sorry, my answer was to the question about heat coming out of one set of vents and cold air coming out of the other side of vents..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd check for low coolant level. Is your engine temperature gauge suddenly reading lower than normal? If so, your thermostat could be stuck open. If the temp gauge reads fine, and you have plenty of coolant in the system, I'd guess you have a sticking heater valve.

    If you get lots of heat down to the floor but not much up top, that might be something more connected to hypothesis.
  • 95483987749548398774 Member Posts: 1
    The heater on these cars uses an electrically driven vacuum valve that further operates a vacuum controlled heater valve. On V6 models air can get trapped in the system and that will cause issues. The most common problems are related to the blend door operation, however. The website saabserviceshas some pretty good information relating to the hvac system on these models, including a chart defining the codes that may be displayed on the ACC unit.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Mighty handy reference. Thanks for posting that for 9-5 owners. Man, all that trouble being caused by a few cheesy plastic parts.
  • saabesonsaabeson Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, new to this. I have a 2000 9-5 V-6 Sedan with ACC issues. I get a 3 on the left and 13 on the right when I run the ACC diagnostic. The drivers side defrost and vents blow the correct temperatures and the right defrost/vents blow hot unless I turn the temp down all the way and turn the blower on high, then it cools slowly. Multiple problems?
  • saab5fivesaab5five Member Posts: 1
    The 3 on the left side indicates you have 3 faults. the numbers on the right are the faults. (ie their should be 3 different numbers that will scroll)
  • tron77tron77 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 Saab 9-5 my HVAC is not working correctly it will not blow any air through the system. Some air will come out once I start driving and get a little speed going , it’s cold on the driver side and warm on the passenger. I ran the diagnostic test and came up with the code’s 0.……. and then 1.………08 do you know what this means and what I can do to fix it?
  • lonesaaberlonesaaber Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 01 saab 9-5. There is a shaft on the heater box which is cracked, also a plastic lever which controls certain linkages which could be broken. Go to a saab dealer part's department and ask for the 'service bulletin' which addresses this problem. The bulletin explains what to inspect for and how to fix it. The cost if you do yourself is about $70.
  • manny78manny78 Member Posts: 1
    i have an 01 9-5 and when i start the car up and turn on the climate control it blows the fuse but ill replace it and the fuse wont blow out the rest of the day until i go and start it up again the nex
    t day...any thoughts???
  • tron77tron77 Member Posts: 2
    Ok so I fixed the blend door shaft on the heater box on my 99 Saab 9-5 it works. I'm still having trouble though no air is blowing out unless I'm driving at a descent speed even then it's not really coming out. I ran the ACC test and no codes came up is this my blower motor? Anyone have a suggestion?
  • dslapodslapo Member Posts: 2
    If you have a problem with cold air on one side and hot air on the other side this is a major defect in by the manufacturer and should be fix at SAAB's expense. No extended warranty will cover. We have to make a class action suit against SAAB if they do not take responsibility for defect in there manufacturing of of the 2000 9.5 SE model's air conditioning system.
  • jonnyboy001jonnyboy001 Member Posts: 1
    Got the same exact problem. Did you have this fixed and what was the solution and cost? Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    There are quite a few Technical Service Bulletins on this problem related to the air mixing damper shaft within the heating/AC system. The dealer should be able to readily call up all the instructions he needs to fix the problem. Looks like some little plasticky parts are involved and maybe an hour labor---at least just from looking at the instructions. So maybe couple hundred bucks?

    Reference

    Bulletin No.: 854-2577

    Date: December 2006, 2000

    Bulletin Number: 854-2578

    Date: April 2006

    Bulletin Number: 854-2411 utg. 2

    Date: April 2006

    Notes

    Bulletin No.: 854-2461

    Date: March 2004

    Bulletin Nbr: 871-2322

    Date: March 2002
  • mastertatermastertater Member Posts: 4
    Maybe a little late for you, but at least for someone else. I have the for-sure solution to the interior fan not working and the #22 40 amp fuse blowing all the time. This fuse is on the same circuit as the SAI (Secondary Air Induction) device. The SAI works with the Ox sensor at start up for only the first couple of minutes. I just figured this out. I removed this device (next to the battery - round, black, pump looking device that has two pipes and one electrical connector). Took the metal half off (don't mess with the plastic side). Looked inside at the motor. Wow, look at that, one of the wires (red) is touching one of the brush holders and is shorting it out through the insulation. Solution: cut this the slightest bit shorter and crimp another connector on there, boom done. You can also just disconnect this device all together if you like as it only effects the emissions in the first five minutes or so. This will probably help most people with a heater fan not working at all. Now to figure out why there's no hot air. Uuugh.
  • dingo1170dingo1170 Member Posts: 1
    The fault came up with 1-08 left blend door problem which I have read here can be fixed with 2 parts. But nowhere have I read that its the rear where the hot air comes out in my car so I hope this fixes this issue ? At the moment I run the A/C on lo and get cold air everywhere including the rear of the console. Anyway I have ordered the sleeve and shaft and hope this will fix this issue any ideas or have I screwed up ?
  • csquared49csquared49 Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the 40 AMP (which blew everytime I started the car and needed replaced) with a 40AMP circuit breaker. Its kinda bulky, but it fit easily in the fuse compartment. It would try to blow, but would reset. I had NO heat and after this fix.. I never had to mess with it again and I had heat all winter. Hope it works for you!!!
  • shiragpatelshiragpatel Member Posts: 1
    Hey,
    I have the same issue and the error code that came up in mine was 1_19 ...did u ever end up finding a solution to this ? the air that comes through when driving I believe is RAM air ...
  • mastertatermastertater Member Posts: 4
    Not sure if you read this. Here is the for-sure solution to the interior fan not working and the #22 40 amp fuse blowing all the time. This fuse is on the same circuit as the SAI (Secondary Air Induction) device. The SAI works with the Ox sensor at start up for only the first couple of minutes.

    I removed this device (in front of the battery - round, black, pump looking device that has two air pipes and one electrical connector). Took the metal half off (don't mess with the plastic side). Looked inside at the motor. Wow, look at that, one of the wires (red) is touching one of the brush holders and is shorting it out through the insulation.

    Solution: cut the red wire the slightest bit shorter and crimp another connector on there, boom done. No more short. You can also just disconnect this device all together if you like as it only effects the emissions in the first five minutes or so. This will probably help most people with a heater fan not working at all.

    Double check that your #22 40 amp fuse is blown. If you just replace it, it will just blow again. You either have to fix it or replace the SAI unit. The SAI unit's motor will probably be pretty well melted from the short and may have to be replaced to pass smog.

    This should fix your problem and has nothing to do with and will not show up on the ACC codes!
  • nedb7nedb7 Member Posts: 2
    Coincidentally after having a leaking heat transfer valve (I think that's what it is called) my heat now only works about 15% of the time. The air conditioner works fine. I checked the code and it comes up as a "0", so I don't think it's the blend doors.
    Any suggestions?
  • mastertatermastertater Member Posts: 4
    Ok, here is a link that describes the cheapest and easiest repair for a broken "blend door" shaft. This is very common.

    http://www.econmancer.com/?p=98

    If this is not your problem, here is a basic procedure for diagnosing interior heater problems:

    first check to see if you have enough coolant in your engine. Next, run your engine till full operating temperature. Now check the heater hoses that go through the firewall to the heat exchanger buried in your dashboard. They should both be quite warm almost hot. If one is cold, you have one of two problems: One, the heater hose system needs to be bled and is currently stuck with a vapor lock. Two, the valve or pump that sends hot coolant to the heater core is not engaged and is suspect

    If both hoses are hot and you have no heat it has to be the flap (blend door) that allows cold air to pass over the heat exchanger. Different things can cause this, fuse blown, lever arm broken (detached), electronic thermostat control malfunction.

    In the case of the Saab, if you pull the blend door motor off and move the blend door arm by hand you will get heat and you can start to diagnose the exact issue from there (ie, check motor, shaft etc.)

    Hope this helps.
  • nedb7nedb7 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks... I tend to think it may be the vapor lock issue. Ever since they changed the heat transfer valve, it hasn't worked. Somebody else mentioned possible vapor lock, but gave me no clue how to check. I'll check the hoses tonight.
  • mastertatermastertater Member Posts: 4
    Ok, vapor lock. Look for the two hoses going into the heater core through the firewall. Look for the higher one if one is higher. Look for any bleed valve or screw near the highest point. Also look for a hole in the hose itself. It might be under the hose clamp. Take off the higher hose and run the engine with full coolant. If coolant flows out of the heater and not out of the hose, you have the right hose. Otherwise switch hoses. As the car runs it should fill up the heater core and push out air. Put the loose hose back on its fitting half way at an angle to continue to let air out while letting coolant flows back to the engine. Keep doing this until coolant flows out of the hose at an angle, and put the hose back on an tighten the hose clamp. If you do not have any coolant flowing at all, you have a valve problem. It may take 5 - 10 minutes for coolant to flow out the right hose at idle. Hope this helps.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Well, they never responded to thank you, but i found all your posts very informative. I'm not a Saab owner yet, but it is good to know there are people out there that know them well. And the short you found in the SIA pump thing was pretty impressive.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    or anyone, do you know when Saab started to hot galvanize their bodies to resist rust?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No but most companies started doing this late 70s/early 80s.

    I don't recall that Saabs were ever particularly susceptible to rust anyway.
  • fogelsonfogelson Member Posts: 1
    I get cold air from the left side of the car and heat from the right side and rear seat heat when I should be getting air conditioning from all of the vents.. the code that shows is 1 11. What is wrong and what is the fix for this. Thanks.
  • aherman1115aherman1115 Member Posts: 1
    My heat is not working properly! When I turn the car on, I have to slam the side or top of my dash to get the heat to turn on but now it has gotten to the point where all I hear is the faintest sound of what sounds like a fan with something stuck in it trying to rotate, trying to turn on but it doesn't! It works VERRRRY faintly when I press the button that has that swirly arrow inside of the car but thats not until I drive at 50 MPH or so and that is not even a guarantee! Today it just kind of completely stopped working no matter how hard or how much I hit the dash. Anyone have any idea what this could be??
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    A dead mouse stuck in the fan?

    Remnants of a mouse nest getting stuck in fan? They usually use what is handy and warm insulators. Car interior sound deadening underpadding is the material of choice...the little $%#&*! so and sos..

    Try parking with recirculate door closed in future but is not a solution in all cars.

    Rheostat gone bad in the fan switch?
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