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The mechanic said it is electrical fault and it has to do with the brainbox .
Please any body with these issue before
regards
lexy
I was just reading though that there is only one kind of transmission fluid that should be used in Chrysler's and that most dealers, and mechanics do not know about it, that for some reason Chrysler does not make it clear. It stated that 90% of the transmission failures are caused by that? I'm not sure, but I am going to ask what they used.
There are several off the self a/t fluids that are certified for use in the Chrysler a/ts, even the ATF 3 and 4 sold by WalMart are.
No need for exotic expensive brands, these work great.
I have an 05 pacifica I just bought , shimmy and rattkle when I take off. Broken Motor mounts. Seems to be an issue with Chrysler. I called chrysler ( # from website) got a case assigned, and I will update everyone on how much they are going to help pay on this issue. I had a POS 06 jeep commander, everything went bad, they were going to pay for half of new transmission and ignition switch. Just call Chrysler and the safety Board. Stand united.
What is your reason for purchasing one? Or why didn't buy a Service Contract?
farout
You don't say how amny miles on your? PAC (use PAC easier than spellin it all out) on the 2004 to 2006 PAC's transmission service was to be dome about 30,000 to 50,000 miles. If you bought your PAC from a Chrysler dealer surely they offered you an extended warranty (Service Contract) We have bought 16 brand new Chrysler made vehicles and on every one, except one in 1971. I sure made a mistake by not bbbbbbbbuying one. I have not failed to buy one on all the rest. I have always got my monet returned in the repair. I say never buy a vehicle without a extended Warrant,
Here is what I would do if we were in your shoes. Call Chrysler at
1 800 992 1997. Listen for the complaints or problems, I think its the last choice. I would call the dealer where you bought it. Call the BBB and get that started.
Thay transmission used sshould not go for $ 3,000. Perhaps if it's a Amco or some transmission place, I think a Chrysler dealer can do for you a lot. Talk positive, don't down grade Chrysler or the car, dealers hate that and have no incentive to to help someone who is mad at Chrysler, the car, or something related to chrysler. Go in with a pleasent, kind attitude. If you do not have an extended warranty there is no reason to help you, except you come accross like someone he cpuld please, and is nice to talk to. Ask the General Manager or owned what he would siggest.
It is always possible to run into a monkies butt. so if you have the luck to run into such a jerk ( proberly was a old YUGO owner manager long time ago) Just see if there is a near by Chrysler dealer.
I do not know if you are a Christian, ( I am) the Lord is there don't be afraid to ask Him for wisdom and direction. God is faithful and we can trust Him
farout
I bought my 2005 Chrysler pacifica in 2008 with 30k miles on it. I did buy a protection plan and used it for multiple repairs(F&R motor mounts & transmission solenoid) that same year. I tried to get my money back and return the car to the dealer but they screwed me around till they just went out of business one day!.. :lemon:
Now 4 years later i'm going to pay it off this December and it's in the shop again right now. This is the 4th time over the past four years i've replaced the motor mounts!! I do have 108k miles on it now and i drive it a lot, but still i parked it for 8 whole months and only drove my 99 ford escort and had no problems! This pacifica is a nightmare! The motor mounts and the whining noise are driving me crazy!
The mechanic says the whining noise is my altornator because it's about to go out. I didn't tell him it's been making that noise since 08.. its $200 + labor to fix that. $300 a visit for the motor mounts! And my 99 ford escort has been in the shop once in four years... to get an alignment! To me that don't sound right! I love the inside of the pacifica, but under the hood is a disaster and parts are too expensive! :sick:
Also this last summer and this summer as well, my A/C is acting weird. when i first start the car it will not blow air from the front vents, but it is blowing from the rear vents. It only does this sometime and will just kick in randomly after about 2-5 minutes and start working fine till the next time i start the car. Not sure if it's the fan, motor or I'm thinking it might be clogged somewhere with debris? Either way I'm spending too much money already on the motor mounts to worry about that right now. :confuse:
Well I hope more people call Chrysler and get some help!
My wife pulled into a parking spot and as she was slowing to a stop, the car engine stalled. She placed the transmission in Park and was able to restart the engine. She was able to put the car in reverse and back up, but each time she selected Drive, the engine would strain, load up and stall. I could back the car up a hill, allow it to coast in Neutral until it reached 2 or 3 mph and then shift into Drive. The car would behave normally until I reached the point of stopping, and then the engine would begin laboring and the engine would stall. There was no unusual noise coming from the transmission before this began or even now. The DTC is P2763. I do most of my mechanic repairs for my vehicles, including engine rebuilds, but I'm not sure where to look for this issue with the transmission.
Sincerely,
Back_Yard_Mech
We had the LifeTime power train warranty and we bought the LifeTime Max Care $100. ded. warrantee. Between both of these a total of $ 18,000. was spent keeping it going. We saw no end to the problems and felt it was basically un trustworthy. We had hoped that we might not have to buy another vehicle at all. sowe bought the truck. So far we like it.
I wish you all the best.
farout
I ordered all my parts online from ebay except the condenser which I got at a salvage yard.
The trouble I'm having is with the Transmission Cooler Lines. I took off the old lines and was about to put the new lines on when I noticed that the old transmission cooler and the new one do not have the same connectors.
The old cooler had a nut on the line that was held on with a pin and attached directly to the cooler. The new cooler has what looks like a place for a rubber hose to attach.
Like I said, I'm not a mechanic and this is likely something silly that I am overlooking but I need some help figuring out how to connect the lines to the cooler.
Please help as I am utterly confused and I have googled to my hearts content and can't find any guides on replacing the cooler. Thanks in advance!
I posted this in another forum with pictures, so I'll add the link since I can't upload pictures here.
http://m.chryslerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19973
BUT the NEW NEWS is we now have a broken motor mount!!! and it was towed in yet again.
Just for your info, we had our 2007 PAC 148,00 miles, and 6 years, The Lifetime Warranty paid our $ 16,000. in repair and our $ 100. deductable's we had nearly $ 4,000. so it was a very expensive vehicle to drive. Best advice is to sell it as soon as you feel you can. The 2008 Pac's wer betterthat the 2007's. They stopped production of the Pac. in 2008. There has been mush disappointment by Pac's buyers. You might call 1800 992 1997 and tell chrysler what has happened and see if they would be willing to give you a owners loyality Cert, to help you out on a new car.
We bought a 2013 Ram truck and really like it and get better or as good as our pac did. Good luck.
Because of the warranty and we like the service manager and we know him, all our service was done at a Chrysler dealer. Even Chrysler felt rather sorry for the problems we had,
Here is the hard part for you, my experience with our PAC was NOT unsual!!! If you can afford to sell it, you might want to think long and hard about it. We loved the ride and confort that the PAC had, it was esay to drive and we liked the car, it was the constant repair that killed it for us, We are elderly and we could see it just would not last as long as we expected it to. We bought a 2013 Ram 1500 Big Horn crew can 5.7 8 speed automatic. It gets great mpg just about like the PAC, only the truck is bigget and we had to buy a side step to get in it.
I hope this helps, and good luck.
Wow! in reading the horror stories, it makes me wonder what is up with our 2007 Pacifica Touring. We purchased the car used, with 26,000 miles on it. The carfax was clean, it had been a lightly used fleet vehicle before being sold into the wholesale chain that got it to our dealer. It was at a really good price, and very low mileage compared to the other cars. The transmission issues were the only warning we received in our research, but it appears that only some people have the issues.
Here we are a few years down the road, and my wife thinks this is the best car she has ever had. She is a bit of a lead-foot, and drives a high-speed toll road with aggressive 90 mile an hour drivers every day in her 45 to 70 minute commute each day. So this isn't grandma driving. We are past 100,000 miles now, and the only problem we have had is the shifter interlock broke. The interlock is a small plastic part with a spring that presses on a switch, to tell the computer you are in park, and it is ok to let you start the car. If the interlock is broken, it thinks you are not in park, and the car won't start. This is a common problem, I have seen it in many makes of car. They often get gummed up, sticky, or the switch wears out, or in the case of the Pacifica the plastic anchor point for the return spring broke off, so the engine would not start as a result. And this didn't just suddenly fail, intermittently it would refuse to start, then for no apparent reason after many attempts it would start... So I think that the Interlock was probably failing for a while before the spring broke completely off.
The interlock part is a small plastic part, but the replacement includes the entire shifter assembly, which is fairly pricy. being a dealer-only custom order part, there is no way to get on on a weekend, and being without the car means I have to give my wife my pickup, since I have a shorter drive to the office... and I can't be without my truck for that long... So I decided to repair the unit, I took a very small drill bit and made a hole in a stong part of the interlock cam, so I could attach the spring. I intended to order the part anyway, as who knows how long my repair would last... Well, I never got the part ordered, and it's been over a year since I did the repair.
I'm getting ready to have a brake job done, the first one, but they tell me the back brakes are still almost like new, only the front breaks need R&R (about $450). The front pads are about gone, and the front rotors are a bit warped, so the $450 covers new rotors, caliper rebuild parts, and a good flushing for both the front and rear.
I also need a new set of tires ($650 to $850 installed depending on whether we get the good tires or not (we are getting the good ones)).
The guy that did my safety inspection told me that the dealer had skipped some of the maintenance items on the 90k service, so I'm not really happy about that... But other than the fact I avoided a $500 repair on the shifter interlock, no unexpected issues have occurred.
We have the front-wheel drive version, so that may be part of why our problems may be fewer than others here... We also don't have any teens driving it. Lead-foot 50-something adults with safe driving habits... but no peel-outs or aggressive driving.
We do notice a small hard-shift sometimes, and when the wife is backing out of the driveway, it sometimes makes a low moan as she steps on the brakes... but I think that sound is just a minor noise from the rear of the vehicle where there are few parts of consequence... could be the brakes, or perhaps the rear shocks. But these are just minor intermittent sounds, nothing like the other reports here.
Wonderful car!!
Yep, over the years there have been some horror stories with the Pacifica. Not that people don't have issues, but it IS nice to hear someone come around and post that their car is OK
We had the shifter lockout problem-fixed that with a aluminum billet replacement found online-100% fix.
we took the car in for a free inspection 2 weeks ago because we noticed a "thud" on acceleration. Shop said it was engine misfires (no codes) and lower A-arms were bad. I took the car home-bought my own parts and replaced them myself. The A-arms looked ok to me, all rubber looked good, but I replaced them anyway (bought online $45 each). I also pulled off the intake plenum and did the plugs and spark boots (not the 6 coil packs). We did pop a code (P0441 EVAP EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM PURGE FLOW FAULT PURGE FLOW FAULT) - and I did NOT use a new intake plenum gasket when I put it back together thinking it looked fine and would probably do the trick. It's $9 and I plan to replace it today to see if it makes that code go away. I'll be searching the internet before I buy one and dive into that little job beforehand to hopefully save myself the trouble. So, after putting the plenum back on-Test drive='Thud'!
I popped the hood and told my wife to drive off-'thud'-FRONT MOTOR MOUNT. I came across a YouTube video that showed me what I was about to get into and offered GREAT tips on easy removal. The front mount was cracked open from acceleration and is filled with oil-prepare for that mess because you have to rotate the entire bracket 360 degrees to get the housing frame and mount out-then you replace the mount in the housing frame-and reverse the procedure to get it back in. It was still difficult and I would advise this maintenance for just anyone; but if you've dropped subframe-type maintenance before-then you can probably handle this. Replaced the front motor mount (looks like a rubber air bag, is filled with oil inside and is mounted in a housing frame bracket ) and left side torque mount (little dog bone) that is bolted in next to the wheel well and front bumper shroud underneath-so be sure to turn the wheel all the way left AFTER you jack it up and get the car on jack stands-ALL OF THIS would be much easier on a lift, but (after removing the left side torque mount) I had to jack the engine up to get the front motor mount housing frame bracket out. Car seems to work fine, but there is a bit of a 'shudder' when you let off the gas just after the last shift point-I'm guessing this is probably leaking seals inside the transmission and possible a torque converter. The wife is complaining about the shudder-only because she is daily city driving to school, stores, etc, with occasional road trips no more than 4 hours at a time. I don't know if I should bother with transmission trouble shooting or just avoid the entire hassle and get a (HOPEFULLY) good rebuilt transmission with NEW torque converter and hope for the best; the other option is to let it ride then wait for the no question signs of a bad transmission to rear their ugly head. It seems to shift fine, no lagging, slipping or hard shifting-just a shudder after the last up shift during acceleration and only if you let off the gas just as it happens. I feel like it might just be a fluid flow or pump "interruption" just as its done doing its job-like I'm dropping the RPMs and it's justifiably complaining a little-I don't think it's a huge deal-but I could be wrong.
I also decided to do the brakes while I had the wheels off and found out that the front wheels turn in Park while up on Jack stands-the Emergency Brake Was the only way to stop the wheels from turning while removing the loosened lug nuts. Cold this be because of the aftermarket aluminum billet shifter lockout bracket? We still have to put our foot on the brake to shift (which I messed with a little while I had it apart-figured out how that lockout works to see if it could be bypassed). It could not be bypassed; and the car does not roll when in park-so no worries-just though that it was weird for a FWD car to have the wheels moving while up on Jack stands.
The rear brakes were more than 50% more worn than then front brakes, which I feel is probably appropriate, knowing that it's a city driven car-all the rotors looked REALLY good, so I saved money there (they checked straight with a 'homemade jig' that checks for warpage-like checking a bicycle wheel for straight).
It's all back together except for a new air filter and intake plenum gasket-any suggestions on that P0441 Code?