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Mercedes Benz R-Class Prices Paid



  • I was also interested in Diesel earlier but changed my mind after I talked with a few people.

    For models 2009 and above, you need to fill ad blue and this would cost you around $250 to $300 per year and also there are some additional charges during maintenance for diesel engines. So, you are looking at $400 per year additional expenses for diesel than Gas. Diesels give 5 miles more than the gas engines, so I did not think I could save money with Diesels.

    Again, this is what I was told, so it may be wrong. If you are planning to buy 2008 CDI then there is no ad blue for those engines and you should go for a diesel. But definitely there is a huge difference in driving the R350 and the Odyssey believe me. (I drove my friends Odyssey a few times and test drove a 2011 model as well)
  • Thanks for the advice Ram. How do you like your new R? Also, do you miss the sliding doors of a minivan? Thoughts? Would appreciate if you can IM me (if there is anything like that here). gmak169 at yahoo
  • ramssaranramssaran Posts: 36
    edited November 2010
    I love it. I never owned a minivan to answer whether I missed the sliding door or not. It's depends on how do you like it. I did not see any problem with the big doors so far in my R350. I guess the automated sliding doors are cool too in Odyssey but I like the ride and comfort in R350.
  • manigopi, the price is for a gas model not diesel
  • thanks. How does the MB CPO compare to that of BMW? I had a BMW CPO that came with additional 2 yrs and 100K coverage. The bumper to bumper was phenomenal. I guess MB is 12 months and I have to pay extra for more coverage?
  • Does anyone know if the 2008s have 'curve illuminating' Xenons/HID? Or is it available only in later models?
  • Hello MBr, pretty useful info here. I am begining to be a R class convert from Odyssey. I see a 208 P2 listed for 36K 25K miles. What was the original price quoted to you before you got it down to 30K? That will be very useful for me to bring the price down.
  • Hi. I see that there are a few questions on this debate about which one of the two. I have an 08 Odyssey full loaded with the run flats (current mileage 20k). It's a lease which is due next summer. I started looking whether to replace it or keep it and the R is on my shortlist. My wife on the other hand wishes to keep the Honda but here's my two cents that I want to share. I believe the Odyssey has an inherent model mfg defect with the alignment and here is why: (1) I get increased road vibration in the steering wheel at speeds excess of 55mph. The road vibration is present in a steering wheel shimmy. I had brought it to the dealer three times within a month period after the 1st tire rotation. They did all sorts of 'rebalancing' and 'forced road tests' but couldn't correct the problem until they replaced one of the tires as it couldn't be balanced. Of course, in the process they scuffed and chipped two rims which they fixed. Nevertheless, it did correct the problem. However, this fall this shimmy or wobbling has returned. (2) The car leans/pulls to the left and it isn't just me. My neighbors' Odysseys without the runflats have the same misalignment issue. In addition, there is a whole forum on this issue on Edmunds. Nevertheless, I am not sure if the new 2011 may have corrected this problem but honestly my confidence in Honda is already shot. It looks like for the new model they did away with the run flats. So here's my two cents on this matter. I myself have to read up on the R and see what problems may be afoot with it. Nothing is perfect but before I had the Honda I had a 2004 BMW 330ci and and a 2006 X3 which never posed any problems. I have been told by the Honda techs at the dealership that it's a problem with the Michelin run flats. I doubt it as BMW and MB have run flats on their vehicles. So they could blow smoke elsewhere as I wasn't born yesterday.
  • 2008r3502008r350 Posts: 9
    edited November 2010
    Got my 2008 R350 CPO w/ 23301 miles for $30750 :) (listed sale price 34900)

    Hoehen Merc, Carlsbad, CA
    5 yr/100k bumper2bumper warranty
    Majestic Black/Macadami MBTex,
    P1, Panaromic roof, Liftgate, Heated front seats, Parktronic (without camera), Power Liftgate, iPod int kit, 6CD Chgr in glove box, Hands free voice ctrl,
    7 seat (second row mid) , Cargo Cover.

    Traded 2004 Odyssey /w 74k miles for $7000. :)
    Down payment : $5k
    BOA pre-app: 3.12% 60 months for used cars.
    Dealer broke BofA rate by 0.5 points - and got 2.59% for 60 months. :)
  • that was a great deal. Congrats, 2008r350
  • Thanks Ram. How do you like R350? I miss my Odyssey's big sliding door and that was big fancy hifi stuff back in 2003. But my kids grown big and not much a 'wow; do-it-again'. But you can't beat the buttery smooth, floating the clouds ride of 350. This is my second Merc and I was totally taken by surprise :)
  • We are enjoying our R350.I know the sliding door would be easier to get in and out but you will enjoy this one better in terms of comfort and ride. We have a 1 year old and she enjoys the panaroma sunroof and we did not feel that the back doors were a problem. We just avoid parking in the compact car parking lot, thats it.
  • Oh yeah; I gave a very nice instruction to my wife to look for a big parking space again and again. Poor Odyssey, it had enough scratch marks :). Hope my wife does not see this forum, lol!
  • Im in the market for a 2008 R350, but concerned about the warranty - really only going out 2 year plus a few months. I am willing to pay a bit more for a 5 year warranty.

    Is the warranty through Mercedes Benz, where you can bring it to any dealership?

    Was the 5 year warranty a big part of the negotiations?

  • Sorry I gave the incorrect info about the warranty. 5 yrs from the original sale date. Means I have approximately 2 yrs 8 months or so.
  • csf3csf3 Posts: 1
    I just picked up a R500 Sak's edition for a little over $20K with 52k on the odometer. It is in very clean condition.
  • I posted a few months ago about our attempts to get a good deal on an Extended Warranty once our CPO coverage ended in Feb 2011. A few important lessons that we have learned:

    (1) I really dont think this is the right car to own without a warranty!! We've had some very costly repairs and I am guessing this will only get worse as the car passes 50k miles. I would suggest thinking about this when buying the car from a dealer. We probably could have negotiated an extended warranty for a much better deal at purchase.

    (2) Of course you can buy the extended warranty from anywhere you want, so shopping around can pay off. Our original dealer offered us $4600 in October, then more recently when we called back they quoted over $5000! We ultimately found a dealer in Oregon offering us 48 month up to 60,000 additional miles for $3579 (including taxes).

    (3) shame your original dealer! We called our dealer back and explained the 2 quotes we had gotten from them, plus the many, many more reasonable quotes. We also asked them to look at the service record of the car and ask if they thought it would be a wise move to continue owning this car without warranty coverage. Bingo, it got escalated pretty quickly to the owner, who agreed he would beat the lowest quote and come in at a round $3500 including taxes. I think it was pretty clear that we wouldn't have bought another car there in the future (or even continued servicing this one there) if they hadnt worked with us on this.
  • jtm1631jtm1631 Posts: 3
    I just saw a 2010 R350 with 6,700 miles. MB CPO with original sale date of April 2010. Car was a corporate fleet vehicle.

    Steel Grey, P1, 7 seat option, panorama sunroof, heated front seats. Dealer is asking $47,900.

    Seems like a good price based on the low miles and the remaining warranty. Any thoughts?
  • 2008r3502008r350 Posts: 9
    You may want to compare 2011 pricing before you jump in with 2010 model. 2011 R350 base invoice price is $46,723 (msrp $50,240). says there is dealer incentive of $3250 (

    Original 2010 msrp of vehicle+options you mentioned was ~ $55.7k. I saw a sale last month with same specs plus parktronics option - 14k miles here is San Diego listed by a dealer for $48,450. So, yours is OK deal to go. I would go for $45k.
  • gforakergforaker Posts: 14
    In January I bought a 2010 R350 CPO with 5800 miles. It had been a dealer courtesy car and with CPO warranty extending to over 4 years and 100k miles. $46500 with P1 options with pano roof, rear dvd entertainment, iPod interface, Nav, backup camera,19" AMG wheels, etc. Sticker price new over $60k.

    I have been checking the forums and think that the reliability problems have improved since 2008. I have plenty of time to find out.
  • ven7782ven7782 NJPosts: 31
    ramssaran or other R350 experts, need your suggestion. I am negotiating a 2009 R350 with P2 premium package and a rear view DVD entertainment with 23K miles for 42K OTD. Is it a good deal? I am also getting a 2010 Acura MDX (Tech package) with 6K miles for the same amount (OTD). I am confused as to which one shall I go with.

    My concern with R350 is that it is very difficult to resell it, Its maintenance cost and low fuel economy. I am inclined more towards the R350 because it has more space compared to Acura and its rear DVD entertainment system.

  • texan100texan100 Posts: 1
    I just sold my MDX- 2003 model after driving it for over 6 years. I never once had trouble. I sold it because i came to know that 03 models started developing transmission issues and also 90K mile service and timing belt change would cost me well over 7000.

    My choice was MB R-350. I talked to my friend who has been driving since 06 and his suggestion was to stay away from it after warranty is over. It seems every repair costs a fortune and some thing or another goes wrong every week. I am seriously considering MDX tech package but i so desperately wish I had R350 without all these repair issues.

    I guess I am in similar situation to choose between lexus GX 470 or MDX or R350. I think I would go with a vehicle which would have bumper to bumper factory warranty till 100k miles and then sell it the day warranty expires.
  • storm10storm10 Posts: 188
    You should probably go for MB CPO. Automatically gives you 100,000 miles warranty and they are fully reconditioned, so fully serviced. You can also buy extended original MB warranty up to 135,000 miles!

    But personally, I would recommend to lease instead of buying. Lease brand new. If you do it right and make a good deal - you will end up paying less per month than the actual depreciation of this vehicle, and you don't need to worry about buying extended warranty. Everything is covered. If you fall in love with your car, then you can buy the remaining balance at the end of the lease...
  • herisheris Posts: 15
    edited August 2011
    I am replying to previous posts responding to johnwang. John was right!

    I want EVERYONE to know, that in the past two weeks, I found out through Orange Park Mercedes that WE WERE GROSSLY MISLEAD AND DECEIVED BY OUR SALESMAN when we purchased our extended warranty from the PENSACOLA MERCEDES DEALERSHIP in Pensacola, Florida. I believe there's only one MB dealer there, so you don't have to worry about getting them confused.

    After service on my car, I found out my warranty runs out next November, probably before I even hit 50K! Now, HOW CAN THAT BE WHEN WE HAVE A 100K WARRANTY? Well, OPMB explained what I actually bought. WE WERE SCAMMED@#(%!!!!!! WE WERE LIED TO about how the extended warranty worked and our warranty will run out about the same time as when the original warranty w run out.



  • storm10storm10 Posts: 188
    Any car warranty usually expires based on time or mileage - whichever comes first...
  • herisheris Posts: 15
    "Any car warranty usually expires based on time or mileage - whichever comes first..."

    No joke. However, we were told that when we purchased the 100,000 mile extended warranty, it gave us an additional three years of warranty for our money. We were told it normally sold for $2,500 plus, but they sold it to us for less. Comes to find out, we were lied to about that TOTALLY. Our warranty will expire at the normal 50,000 time. The EXTENDED warranty was for IF we went over the 50,000. THERE IS NO WAY WE WOULD HAVE BOUGHT THAT WARRANTY IF THAT WERE THE CASE. I DRIVE LESS THAN 8K MILES A YEAR and have for the past 12 years!!!! My driving habits were not going to change! We were LIED TO BY PENSACOLA MERCEDES BENZ SALES REP for the car. Period... We found out just before a cruise and we've just returned. :mad:
  • Thanks for sharing Heris. I brought a similar package here in Canada, I will now check if I have the same problem.
  • I am looking at a 2009 R-350, 50k miles that was just returned to the dealer off of lease. The car is not even in the dealers inventory as it is still owned by MBUSA financing. Any thoughts on what this car would sell at at auction? How much negotiating do you think there is considering the dealer does not have to pay for marketing and will sell immeadiately. If I do not buy it I do not think they will take it into inventory.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 70,551
    Ask that question, here: Real-World Trade-In Values


    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • We have a 2006 R350 premium package, etc that I bought as Certified from my local dealer and then bought an extended warranty that is good for another 3 years and 50k from now because it was such a frequent visitor to the repair shop. That warranty has paid for itself so many times and as a result the car has had many new items put on it and is in great shape (I hear a noise, I take it in, I see a light on, I take it in, etc). I just want a newer one, should have bought a 2008 or 2009 when I bought this one.

    I looked up trade in value ($18,500), private sale($21,400) and retail values ($23,600) and realize those don't really take into account the value of the extended warranty for a car of this vintage (in fact I cannot find a 2006 R350 under warranty within a 500 mile range of me). The difference between retail and certified for the car is about $1500 and since the warranty cost me $3,200 a year ago, I figure it has to increase the value of the car by at least that much over the trade or private sale value that various tools list. Does that sound about right?

    I'd like to try to work a trade with my local dealer (who sold me the car and the extended warranty), so I am trying to get a sense of exactly what the numbers are so he doesnt make too much from me on the combination of the trade in and the new sale. I know how to figure out how to drive a good deal on the new sale, it's the trade that has me puzzled. I'm guessing he'll list the car for $25k, so getting $18.5k trade value seems like leaving too much on the table. He's serviced the car and has always done everything that needs to get done, so he wont have any real inspection/service costs before he puts it on the lot. But obviously, he has some costs in selling it and needs to make a bit of profit. What is a good place to start with a proposed trade, $21,500, higher/lower?

    Personally I wouldn't dream of owning a 2006 R outside of warranty, so I am surprised people would pay in the range of $20k for one!
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