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Nissan Quest Transmission Problems
Help! I just had a transmission flush on my '02 SE with 32K miles only to learn today that I may have permanently damaged my transmission. Should I do a regular transmission oil, filter and gasket change now or will that only make it worse? Or should I just wait another 30K miles and worry about it then?
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Comments
http://autotechrepair.suite101.com/article.cfm/040206
And a few other posts on the Villager/Quest problems thread.
Not unless your transmission is shifting funny, relax and enjoy the vehicle.
The shop told me they had a new machine to flush the fluid. After it was done I mentioned it to my brother-in-law and he said they probably didn't change the filter or gasket. So I called the shop and they said that newer transmissions are more advanced and don't need the filter or gasket changed until the vehicle has high miles or if there is a leak. He also told me the machine they use goes directly through the dipstick. I imagine it must have been a "power flush".
My transmission does seem to be shifting OK. Does your Quest shift very quickly at low speeds? In normal acceleration mine is in 2nd gear at 10-15 MPH an in 3rd by 30. Unless you think there is a chance the trans was damaged due to the machine forcing clogged particles in the wrong places, I won't worry.
On the other hand, maybe its worth doing a regular trans oil filter and gasket change somewhere else to be sure.
amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 6:46 am
steve_, "Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute: Problems & Solutions" #3411, 30 Jun 2006 8:09 pm
goodcrd, "Jeep Liberty Diesel" #7562, 26 Aug 2006 6:59 pm
This is about the best rebuttal post on the benefits of flushing around here:
electricdesign, "Ford Explorer: Problems & Solutions" #5215, 20 Jul 2006 6:41 pm
I guess I'd want to nail down whether your procedure really was a power flush or just a fancy fluid change without any pressure. Plus if your tranny doesn't fail in the first week after flushing, that's probably a good sign.
Steve, Host
SUVs and Speed Shop
Thanks for the posts.
This is all I needed to know. Now I will check my Haynes manual to see if it has a screen or filter. If it has a screen, I'm OK. If not, I will have another change done to replace the filter.
Luckily I'm doing this at 30K. At 70K I'd be a lot more worried.
I don't see anything about being able to clean or replace a transmission (or automatic transaxle) filter or screen. A couple of the diagnostic flow chats have you remove the pan to check the condition of the fluid and the book also says that if you change the fluid and it's dirty, to change it again until the fluid is clean.
There is a magnet in the tranny pan.
The owner's manual may say something different?
Steve, Host
SUVs & Speed Shop
I have a problem (maybe more than one) that I am trying to troubleshoot on my '99 Nissan Quest GXE (111 000 km/69,000 mi). The MIL is on.
The engine has begun abnormal harsh shifting during 1-2 and 2-3 upshift and 3-4 (overdrive) doesn't engage while driving at 70-80-100 kph (43-50-62 mph) and even more excessive speed. I fact shifting occurs at abnormal higher speed. 2 weeks ago, another problem occured. I was not able to drive because rpm was fluctuating between 2000 and 2200 with a speed limit of 20kph (12 mph) even if I step on the accelerator.
I borrowed a scantool and code scanned the vehicle and came up with the following fault codes:
P0105 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit
P0325 - Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank I)
P1605 - A/T Diagnostic Communication Line
P0446 - Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit
P1400 - EGRC Solenoid Valve
P1705 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit A/T
P1105 - MAP/BARO Pressure Switch Solenoid Valve
P1490 - Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve (Circuit)
I started troubleshooting the Nissan Quest 1999 service manual borrowed from the dealer which I don't have anymore. I checked the absolute pressure sensor power supply.
1. Ignition switch "ON".
2. Voltage between terminal 3 and ground with tester is 0.4V (should be approximately 5V).
3. Detect malfunctionning harness connectors (looks OK).
4. Detect harness for open or short between ECM and absolute pressure sensor. Short (or continuity) exist between terminal 3 and ground.
My question are:
What can cause the harsh shifting problem? What should I troubleshoot first?
How do I locate the short between the sensor and the ECM?
Recently, another problem occured: the radiator fan is running continuously (meaning 100% of the time). I think it is related to the thermostat but I'm not sure and would realy appreciate any suggestions/answers any of you could give me.
I am on my own with this and am seeking some Nissan expertise to try and get my Quest back to running good. Thank you in advance for help you may be able to give.
Sincerely,
Hugo
Check out the Online Repair Manuals links and see if you can access any of them. I didn't see any help at the AutoZone link but I've had good luck with the Auto Repair Reference Center. Maybe a library in your area subscribes to it.
You may want to check out the Transmission Traumas? and Cooling Systems: Problems & Solutions (Radiator, Fan, etc) discussions too, and hopefully someone knowledgeable will show up in here soon.
Steve, Host
SUVs and Speed Shop
Checked mpg for trip only got 20 mpg at 65 mphr.
What can I do improve mileage or when does it get rated mpg?
Help
Phil
BTW, it took about 7k - 8k miles before I started seeing 24 mpg on the highway. Let's not discuss the city driving.
Thanks
Troy
You may have a burnt out brake light or a bad fuse. If the fuse and lights are ok, the brake switch could be flaky or you could have a bad interlock solenoid.
Steve, visiting host
thanks,
Jeff
thank you in advance for any help you can offer me...
aderik
Also check the transmission fluid.
Thanks
Also here is a list of TSBs for transmission issues with the 2004 Quest: http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/Knowledgebase.html?catid=231&filter=&sort=d&page=- 1&pp=12&keyid=132
Anyone have any ideas as to what is going on?
If you are over 60k miles (the powertrain warranty for Nissan), you really have no recourse. Also it sounds like you bought it used, 4 years ago. Not unless the van was sold with a warranty.....
The reason I ask that second question is the Quest has had software problems with their transmissions that has caused numerous issues. If you need to replace the transmission, you may want to go the used option if money is tight. Also ask your mechanic about rebuilt transmissions. They are cheaper than new and come with a modest warranty.
Don't buy the extended waranty programs. They are too expensive for what they cover. Basically you are paying for your repairs upfront for limited coverage. Also some of these programs have horrible consumer ratings. I wouldn't trust any of them. They are preying on people's fear.
there' re 2 problems:
1/ TCM = transmission computerized module. Need to be replace.
2/ Lay down on the floor in front of vehicle at the driver side, you will see the trans.
fluid pan. Check for dents or damage. It so visible you can't miss it.
If dented on pan, take your tools out and unscrew 10-12 bolts, the gasket should
comes out with pan. If gasket broken, buy another.
Put pan on flat surface , use a piece of wood to knock flat the dent. Do not damage
surrounding pan lip which the bolts connect to trans housing.
Clean the fluid residue.
Check the filter, if damage, replace or use tool to straighten out the metal mesh.
Put bolts in order when remove pan then put back together in order.
Check manual book to see how much fluid to fill in. Done. Good luck. BTW,
not too difficult to do, don't panic and do it slowly.
lay down on floor at driver side to see any damage, dent on trans. fluid pan.
Big black pan, won't miss it.
If dented, take it off from trans. pan from trans. housing and flatten the dent by
mallet or piece of wood. Try not to damage the bolt holes and gasket.
Gasket should comes off easily with pan, if broken, replace it.
If no dents, then replace the TCM = transmission computerized module.
Problems will fix. Not too expensive to have new TCM. Good luck.
Now it seems to be getting worse - on three / four different occasions, the gas pedal would just not work - you pump it and it was just coasting. The most recent ones were the most scary - not only did it stop transmitting power, but the brakes LOCKED UP !! It's coasting and I cannot brake - all lights on the panel came on, almost as if I was in park, but I am in motion, in the highway, and I cannot stop. Luckily, I rolled to a stop without too much traffic on the multi lane highway, put my hazard lights on and switched off/switched on a few times and it seemed to fix itself. Guess what the dealer had to say? "Cannot reproduce the issue on test drive".
Another idea is call Nissan consumer Affairs (number is in the owner's manual) and log a complaint with them. Be very, very specific with details.
I have a 99 Nissan Quest and it is doing the same thing, when it is in gear Drive or Reverse, it idles and makes a lot of noise and won't drive at all, right now it is parked and not driveable. Did you find out what was wrong, and could you share with me what the problem was please!
Thank you!
Sparks16
Your issue sounds like a transmission problem to me. Especially all the noise that it makes and it is consistent.
I have 2002 nissan quest se. Its transmision is working like manual transmision, car does not move in drive mode. First I have to put it in #1 gear, when it moves then I put it in 2nd gear and when it reaches above 30 miles per hour then I put it in drive. it runs fine. If speed reduce to under 30 then I have to put it in 2nd gear. Is there any body who can help me with this matter.
The problem you posted about your 99 Quest sounds exactly like my 99 Villager. It groans when I try to put in Reverse; feels like it gets into Drive but doesn't really move; also feels like it goes into Neutral but the wheels still locked.
What did you find out about yours? Thanks!
or if anyone else may have any info, much thanks.
Pdldriver
Although the first generation Quests weren't all that big, I'd still be a bit concerned about whether the sedan transmission is beefy enough to handle the extra bulk of the minivan.
I'm not a mechanic and I don't know why your transmission is shot. If mine went, I'd be looking first at the solenoid pack. There's some guys keeping these older vans going over on Yahoo so look there too.
Steve, visiting host
I can also go the whole day without it happening, though. It will also sometimes start from a stop in a very high gear and I'll have to put it into low to get it going at normal speed. This one is cured by turning it off and back on again.
I've seen this problem in the posts but not my other one. Are they related?
I've noticed that when the check engine light is not on the car acts normally. A code scan while the light was on produced the following:
PO744,PO7880,PO797(came up twice!)PO420,PO430. There's no cam sensor code as mentioned in some other posts, though.
Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
OZ
P0420 - http://engine-codes.com/p0420_nissan.html
P0430 - http://engine-codes.com/p0430_nissan.html
P0744 - http://engine-codes.com/p0744_nissan.html
P0780 - http://engine-codes.com/p0780_nissan.html
P0797 - http://engine-codes.com/p0797_nissan.html
I've never had any of these codes but have experienced the "no power" issue. Like you mentioned, turning off the van and turning back on normally cures it. The best I can tell there might be a problem with the TCM. Mine is so intermitent and I don't have any codes, so I haven't addressed it.
Good luck.
I've got a 2000 Quest. When going up hills, the engine stays in low gear and moves really slow. If I press on the gas, the engine jumps into high gear, and whines, but the van goes faster, then falls back into low gear. I've broken a couple of engine mounts due to this all of a sudden, violent acceleration. It's like it jumps into passing gear.
Basically, the van doesn't shift into higher gears when under load, unless I smash the gas pedal. On the freeweay, it's fine, though, and goes through all the gears automatically.
I've been told this is probably a computer problem. Does this mean an 'engine' computer, or a 'transmission' computer problem? Are both/either easily replaceable by the do-it-yourselfer? Does either/both have to be programmed by the dealer.
Thanks in advance.
Sam