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Honda Civic Brake Questions

Hi- I have a new 2007 Honda Civic. I have a question regarding the brakes. When I press/release the brake, sometimes, I hear a mechanical noise. This typically happens when I'm waiting down a slope, and release the brake slowly. (Somewhere near the half play position). The noise comes from the front. Is it normal because of the disk brakes/ABS?



  • I am not sure if it's normal, but I noticed it too. My driveway is sloped, and in the morning when I back down to the street, I hear the same noise. It seemed to go away after a few weeks.

    I noticed another possible problem with the brakes. Right after I start the car and start driving, brakes booster does not seem to work for the first 5~10 seconds. After that everything is back to normal. Did any body else notice this?
  • I just purchased a 2007 Civic and have noticed the same noise under the same general conditions. It sounds like a spring type noise and you can feel it in the car. I don't know if this is because the car is brand new. I'll have to ask when I stop by the dealer. Anyone have anything more definitive?
  • The noise you are probably hearing when you are backing down the driveway is most likely the ABS system doing a self-test which is normal.
  • jfryejfrye Posts: 2
    My 03 Si, bought new, has 30,000 miles and needs the rotors turned. I am a very conservative driver and as seen by the milage the car is driven very lightly, seldom on the highway. My question is, is it normal to develop warped rotors at this milage/usage? Has anyone had similar issue and/or how are your rotors doing? Otherwise the car is great. Thanks in advance.
  • vvileyvviley Posts: 46
    Even around 10k miles/yr, if most of the driving is done in the city (assuming "seldom hwy" = mostly city), there's going to be a higher incidence of brake wear than the typically assumed 45/55 ratio. It might be a little early, but I don't find it too abnormal that you need brake service.
  • kenlwkenlw Posts: 190
    If as stated the 30k is mostly city driving, it isn't a reach to think they could need work by now. My wife's higlander has over 70k (2002 model) and has had 1 brake job at about 50k, which included turning the front rotors. The rears didn't need any work at all yet. Doing the brakes is one thing I can still do myself.....

    Turning rotors is commonly done every-other brake job or when they need it (pulsing/slight grab of the brakes on gentle stops indicates warped rotors).

    I used to "clean" the glaze off of my rotors and pads when I noticed grabbing instead of assuming they were warped, but newer metallic pads don't seem to have this problem. Glazing really makes 'em grab! metallics tend to increase warpage, tho.

    do you brake with you left foot? This is a common cause of premature brake wear, since there is a tendency (albeit unintentional) to let the foot rest ever-so-slightly on the pedal.
  • jfryejfrye Posts: 2
    It's not really city driving in terms of LA or Chicago. I have 2 traffic lights each way on my daily commute. Anyway, I'll just take care of it and not worry about it. Just seemed kinda early. I brake with my right foot.
  • kenlwkenlw Posts: 190
    if you can pull the rotors off yourself, having them turned usually runs about $15 each, often new ones can be bought for not much more (non-OEM). It's not worth living with the grabbing.
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    It isn't uncommon for uneven pad transfer to be confused with warpage, which seldom occurs on brakes except by uneven or over-tightening of the lug nuts. OEM brakes are generally noise-free, but also not the best performing by a long stretch. They often don't take heat well, fading around 700 degrees or so, such that one hard, panic stop or lots of hills, curves and stop-and-go will elevate their temperature and cause the pad material to fade, as well as smear and melt on the rotor. These can become "hot spots" that cause the metal underneath to harden, which will cause these areas to wear less than the rest of the rotor and form high spots. Turning the rotor will even up the surface, but the hardening goes deep and the problem will come back.

    Aftermarket performance oriented brakes are generally much better, but usually noisier (from a little to a lot) and often produce more brake dust, since there is often no such thing as a free lunch. I've been pretty happy with PBR/Axxis ultimates (fade critical at 1000 degrees), but they also make a premium line that offers slightly better than OEM performance for almost no penalty over OEM pads. Other companies like Hawk, also make pads like the HPS (fade critical around 800 degrees), but I've put these on family member vehicles and noticed the warpage issue, especially after the Folks moved from Kansas, with few hills, to N. Kentucky with lots of hills that require a lot of braking.
  • jungiebjungieb Posts: 2
    I have a 1993 honda civic. The brakes are spongy and pedal travels all the way down before brake holds but only this happens when outside temperature reaches high 80's or so. In the early morning or during the winter the brake holds perfectly. I have bled the system thinking there may be trapped air. Checked the vacuum check valve for suction and is ok. What could it be? Faulty brake power booster?
  • kenlwkenlw Posts: 190
    sounds like the master cylinder experiencing bypass (inernal leakage). A rebuilt master cylinder would be the solution if that is the cause.
  • jungiebjungieb Posts: 2
    It's another hot day in Southern California hovering at 100 F but fortunately I have replaced my master cylinder early this morning, thanks for your advice, and my brakes are working just fine. I thank you again! :shades:
  • I just had the 30k mile service done on my 05 LX at the dealer. The service dept. called and said I had some rust on my rear brakes that needed to be removed, to the tune of $120. What's up with this? Is this a scam? :confuse:
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    The shoes should clean the rust off the inside of the drum as the brakes work.
  • Yeah, that's what I thought too. Guess that dealership lost a customer...
  • cz75cz75 Posts: 210
    I never go to the dealer except for warranty work. Most have a bunch of dum-dums working there with one or two who actually know something to keep an eye on the rest. However, anyone who's remotely any good can usually move on to open their own shop or get a better deal at the next dealer down the street, so there may not even be one or two good ones. I try to get recommendations of a good Honda-oriented independent mechanic and haven't been disappointed very often.
  • I have a 1994 Civic with disc brakes on all four wheels. All calipers work. When I replace the front rotors and pads, they overheat and warp the rotors and wear the pads out quickly. It seems that much of the braking is being done by the fronts with little help from the rears. Is there a way to adjust this? Or is there another problem I'm not aware of? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,847
    do you recall the brand name of the parts you used and what you paid for them?

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  • If you buy Honda rotors, this does not surprise me at all. Get a cheap set of aftermarket performance rotors. These would be twice the quality Honda makes. They will resist overheating in return extending the life of your pads. Speaking from experience. Good luck...:)
  • I bought the high end Napa rotors, $52.00 a piece, and middle quality Napa pads,
    $41.00 a set.
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