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Mazda 626 Transmission Questions
mikemichel
Member Posts: 1
in Mazda
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Any help or guidance would be apprectiated. Thanks, Rich
How much was the Transmission Range Switch?
Please, can someone can offer some insight as to whether my ex-wife’s 626 transmission is shot, or not?
She has the ’96 626, 2.0 4 cyl, auto- (I took a look under it, and there isn’t a bottom pan for the trans, the pan is upright on the side. Is this the CD4E?)
What it’s doing is this:
Crank it, hot or cold, put it in any gear, and it pulls normally for 30 or 40 yards, and then the transmission starts slipping bad, then no pull at all. The engine just revs (sort of like it’s real low on fluid). You can stop and put it in any gear, and it won't pull at all.
But- I found if you turn off the engine for just 5 seconds, then crank it again and put it in any gear, it will pull strong and normally-- for 30 or 40 yards, until it slips again.
I checked the trans fluid level, and it’s risen above the normal range where it was recently when I checked, and now shows as overfull on the dipstick, like an inch and a half past the don't add mark.
The fluid does look a bit dark, not real red, but doesn’t really smell burnt to me. There’s 140,000 miles on the car.
At first I thought the transmission was shot, but the way it pulls strong after the engine’s off for a few seconds has me mystified.
Can anyone please say what might be happening here, and whether it’s worth it to try changing the filter and fluid?
All help very much appreciated!
Thank you-
Alex B
PS- Now I see that the filter is deep inside this transmission-- dang.
Thanks Ernie
my wife also added the radiator fan seems to be coming on alot more than it used to
One quick question: Does the O/D light Flash when on extended highway trips?
If it does, you may have a "known" Mazda Service Issue. My 1998, Mazda 626 LX 4 cyl 2.0 had a very similar issue that happened only after driving at highway speeds for about an 70 minutes.
I spoke with a guy who rebuilds these transmissions. He said that when the O/D light "flashes", it is caused by a malfunction within the computer or a minor defect in the transmission.
When the light goes on, it enters a Fail-Safe mode (the EPC solenoid opens up and brings line pressure up to 'max') ... the only catch is it raises the fluid pressure well beyond normal specs (it goes from 100 to 400 PSI).
It is at this time where you get your major failures. (Mazda switched the Automatic 626 to OBD II around the 1996 model year, so if you have a '96 or later, you'll need a full-fledged OBD II-compatible scan tool.)
A Mazda Technical Service Bulletin exists for some 1999-2001 models. TSB 05-005/02 deals with one specific circumstance: "After extended highway driving, the O/D off light is blinking and code P1783 is set (excessive ATF temperature). Occasionally there will be overflow through the dipstick tube and harsh shifting. Mazda's recommended fix is to replace the radiator and to install an auxiliary cooler for the transmission."
It sure can not hurt to tell your mechanic to examine the Mazda Technical Service Bulletin 05-005/02. Keep in mind that once your car goes in safe mode, your transmission fluid will get burnt up real fast. A transmission cooler cost about 40-50 bucks, and will extend the life of the poorly designed Mazda/Ford transmission. You will need to replace your transmission fluid during the install (if burnt) and read the directions on the cooler to adapt for any additional fluid.
Search on the internet for a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).
Some people also recommend going with a synthetic transmission fluid (Supertech 2000 synthetic fluid for cheaper alternative).
Some people have also claimed that by using Honda's transmission fluid (Dexron I instead of Mazda's Dexron III). The thicker Honda Fluid w/ Honda's special additives have caused a rebirth to their Mazda transmissions.
You can also consider installing a Tranny Temp Gauge so that you can see the difference the cooler makes (and know when to stop prior to an transmission overheat.)
I would recommend printing out this and showing it to a trusted mechanic.
Good Luck
My daughter has a 99 626 automatic and it suddenly quit moving when you shift it into any posistion. In this case, it turned out to be simple. The transmission shift cable came loose at the transmission. It appeared to have lost some sort of retainer that attaches the cable to the shift lever on the transmission. It was a cheap and easy fix. Good luck
David
Other than a manual lever position sensor (transmisson gear sensor) I don't know what else there is to do.
What is a transmission range switch?
Did you ever solve your problem? If so, how?
I am desperate. Please email me at alan at alancox dot name.
Thanks.
pls replie at, raphao@hotmail.com
Thanks
Since of late, when I want to indicate to turn left or right, it takes a few minutes before it starts to flash. On hot days it flashes OK.
I also find that when the hazard warning is switched on, the indicatoir lights flash normally.
Any ideas about this problem?
Please help, I AM DESPERATE AS WELL!
e mail me @ dante_merino@live.com with your responses.
Thank you
Thanks and please address your answer to Jiovanybulnes@yahoo.com
the car is a 2.0L 16 valve DOHC and the trans started slipping and I was going to put new fluid and a new filter in it for my brother in law but it doesnt look like there is any way to drop a pan or get in side of the tranny
the car is a 2000 626
Any ideas Thanks
any ideas??
What I strongly recommend is to add a Tranny Cooler, since the major reason the tranny fails in the first place is because of heat.
Mazda was taken over by Ford in the late 90's, and used a whole bunch of Ford parts in the 626 line. What they put in the 626 was a poorly designed radiator, which in turn did a really bad job keeping the Tranny Fluid, which runs through the radiator (in a separate area) cool.
Ford quielty changed the Radiator after 2001/2002 after they recieved a whole bunch of legal complaints. The problem almost became a recall issue, but, since the did not produce a whole bunch of 626 automatics (mostly Manual's) just fell short of the government taking legal action. :lemon:
They told the dealers to simple replace the radiator and/or install an aux tranny cooler to fix the problem.
So, as a 1998 626 owner with a tranny that slips, the best advice I can give is to slowly switch the tranny fluid to Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, FOUR "4" quarts at a time.
Search the internet for "How do I change the fluid in my CD4E?" for more details on doing a "MANUAL" flush of the tranny. It must be a Manual Flush to reduce stirring up the sludge and clogging the fillter (which is a simple screen).
A Manual flush consists of jacking the car (on ramps) and disconnecting the return to the tranny, placing the end of the hose in a bucket.
I recommend changing 4 quarts at a time, every few thousand at three equal intervals (Say every 3000 miles) untill most, if not all the fluid is Synthetic.
You should notice a sligh difference the first 4 quarts (Less Harder Shifts), which will slowly (over the frist 1000 miles or so) loose it effectiveness as the tranny fluid in the torque convert mixes with the Synthetic.
I got an extra 20,000 miles (so far) out of a tranny that was slipping and causing the fail safe mode to trigger since I added a Tranny Cooler and Manual Flushed the fluid to Synthetic.
Hope this helps.