I just bought a 98 Forester with keyless entry and I love that feature, but I hate the alarm. I called the dealer to find-out how to disable the alarm and nothing seems to work. Here are the 2 things that I was told to try:
1) Hold both buttons on the remote (panic button) for 15 seconds
2) Pull the 2 small connectors on the 'black box' behind the fusebox in the cabin (leave large connector and medium connector).
Neither of these things worked. Anybody here know how this can be done correctly (without cutting the speaker wire)?
Dustag - Your dealer kinda gave you the answer.. sort of. You can turn the activate/deactivate horn beep off by pressing both buttons on the remote but .... you have to leave the drivers door open while you do this. Try again.
Holding both buttons on the keyfob doesn't work on the 98 Forester alarms -- that'll start the panic mode.
Getting rid of the arm/disarm noise is handled by changing a dip switch position on the main alarm head unit. It's a bit tricky to get under the dash and access the unit, but I did it in less than an hour with taking my time.
Guess what? They now say they did already process my order, and it should be arriving today. 15 days after ordering, and they had never sent a confirmation. We'll see when it gets here.
I have not been on the board in a while. Is the consesus that with a 2002 Subaru Forester S one would be better off using snows as opposed to the Yokohamas it came with? And if so, which ones would you recommend(size and where best to buy) Thanks in advance. I live in upstate NY and the winters are not terrible but not mild!
I live in eastern upstate NY, where winter can be icy and snowy. Winter Tires are a good idea with the Forester S. The stock Yokohama H/Ts are great in wet & dry, but offer only fair traction in snow and ice. For my '99 S, I bought 15" steel takeoff wheels (from the Forester "L"; see your dealer - I got a very good price from the warehouse in spring of '00). I got Cooper XGTs (15-60R-215 size) which are very good in snow and ice, and perfectly decent in wet and dry. Also cheaper than other good tires by Michelin, Bridgestone et al. See November '00 and November '01 Consumer Reports tire reviews. Acceleration in snow is a little less critical because it is aided hugely by the Forester's all wheel drive. For me, braking ability of tires in snow and ice is really crucial for safety and peace of mind.
If you don't have a good local tire dealer, Tire Rack (tirerack.com) has wheel & tire packages for competitive prices as well as good info to shop by. Good luck and enjoy your new Forester.
Is that the Indian Lake area? How about I bring the three-bean salad and you stop off in Cooperstown and pick up some Omagang beer? I've never been to a Ride and Drive before, should I bring the Forester or the Outback?
I just signed the paperwork today for 2002 Forester L. They are trying to sell me environmental package for $599 and extended warranty for $1300. Live in Syracuse, NY, car in garage overnight.
Environmental package? Sounds like a high priced wax job.
I've seen warranty quotes as low as $900. Yours is the highest I've seen, to be honest. If you want one, keep haggling, you should at least be able to break $1000.
I recently filled up my car with gas and noticed soon after that the check engine light on my 2002 L was on. I called my Subaru mechanic and told him I wanted to bring it in for an appt. for the check engine light. Without me telling him he asked if I had gassed up recently and had I tightened the gas cap tightly. I told him I did just gas up and turned the gas cap one click.
He said to turn it a few clicks and the light should shut off in a couple of days. If not I should bring it in. Has anyone heard of this happening. I'm concerned that it is something more serious. I only have had it 4 mos and have approx. 4700 miles on it. Thanks for any info.
I say NO to all of the above. Especially if you don't drive a LOT of miles each year. My '99 "S" has 81K miles and is doing fine. Only had trouble with the cruise control at 60K, which I shamed the dealer & Subaru into fixing, with me only paying $100 of the $400 or so. Otherwise, only a brake job recently. I just can't see buying an extended warranty for a reliable Japanese car. Not a bad idea for some Domestic or European cars with poor reliability records on big items such as transmissions. IF the extended warranty gives blanket coverage up to 120 or 150K, maybe... BUT: For $1000+/- you can self-insure a lot of work!
If you wax and garage the car, its environment will be OK. + Scotchgard the seats every year or two; $6.00 at K-mart.
I do recommend a couple of other expenditures: - If you know a top alignment shop, pay them to check the front and rear alignment early - and adjust it if necessary. The dealers seem to be sloppy about this. My car came misaligned and roughed up the tires early on until I got it realigned. The dealer just didn't acknowledge the problem. $50 well spent. - Buy takeoff rims and snow tires. They'll extend the life of the OEM tires, which are only fair in snow. And your Forester will be able to go through VERY deep snow and stop better on ice. I live near Albany, so I know what sort of winter you're up against.
Your mechanic's advice seems spot on. The single most common cause of the dreaded check engine light is not tightening the cap enough. The light should go off in a couple of days. If the light is flashing you've got trouble, if it's steady, generally the problem is very minor. Don't worry.
Indian Lake is about 35-40 minutes north of me. I'm @ Caroga Lake. I've been trying to get a Mt. Ride and Drive going for about a year. Never can get enough subies up to my lake house to do it though. I have a few roads, maybe 100-120 miles of nice roads to play on. I've been to Indian lake with my boat many times.
Michael- Ross is absolutely correct. The term "Check Engine Light" is actually a little misleading since the majority of the reasons it comes on deal with emission system problems. And the number one of these is not tightening the gas cap enough (You should always turn it at least a half dozen clicks).
If your CEL doesn't go out by itself after a few days then have the dealer look at it. It could just need resetting but there's a possibility that you could have a bad oxygen sensor (another frequent culprit for the CEL).
FYI (Hugo??), it appears that they found the source of the noise in some Impreza and Forester models. From what I understand, it is an easy fix.
Please be patient for a little bit more. I think it will be next month that more information with a fix (no parts from what I understand) will be available.
We appreciate the feedback we received here. Hopefully, all will be well within a couple of weeks for those of you annoyed by a particular brake noise in these models. I'll post more as soon as I have it.
You have bought a great vehicle, but I suspect that it is from a not so great dealer, maybe those characters at Burnett Ave. and Thompson Road. Don't take ANY extras from them.
If you really want the warranty, negotiate for a price of $900 or less. Or, you can look at aftermarket warranties. Some are better and cheaper, and you can get them OR the Subaru extended warranty up until the original warranty runs out. So, don't let them pressure you.
There's been a discussion over on the WRX sedan board regarding the ABS system on the Impreza. Some drivers report that hitting a bump while braking causes the pedal to drop to the floor and the brakes to completely disengage. This "no brakes!" situation continues for a few seconds, even if the driver pumps the pedal.
Apparently this scary phenomenon is not uncommon across a wide range of ABS system and car manufacturers. In the WRX, the sport-tuned suspension and weak tires might have something to do with provoking the situation.
So here's my question - Has this ever happened to anyone in their Forester? Or other Subaru products? The Forester is on my short list for a spring purchase (as is the WRX) and safety is a concern.
I definitely have not had any such experiences on my '01 Forester S. I have done quite a bit of driving on forestry roads and have intentionally caused the ABS to activate in bumpy conditions. I have never felt as save and secure as I do in this car.
Another question for Forester owners and enthusiasts. One of the main criteria for my next new vehicle is winter driving performance. Like many I'm looking at Subaru's (WRX and Forester) and the Honda CRV.
My question is two-fold. Part one - is the CRV Realtime 4wd system (a "reactive" system) as effective Subaru's AWD system (an "active" system) in the fluffy white stuff? Part two - does it really make a tangible difference?
I floated this balloon over on the CRV board and got a fairly unbiased reaction. I'd like to hear from Subie fans, too.
The CRV system is reactionary. It is 100% FWD until a front wheel slips, then it transfers more torque to the rear wheels. Since it is reactionary, in the time that it takes to shift the power, you are skidding, and may not recover. I personally drive exuberantly, and enjoy the pro-active stance of the 80/20 split and 15/85 split that my 2 cars have. My subaru XT6 has the 80/20 and my Trooper has the 15/85.
Since there is power already being applied to the non-main drive axle, it can compensate quicker. Also both the Isuzu TOD and the AT system on the Subies uses not only the ABS sensors to detect slippage, but they also have weight sensors that detect if the front or rear axle has more weight on it, and shift more power to that axle. For instance on a hard launch, you have more weight on the rear axle of a subaru, that 80/20 split may become 60/40 at that time because your rear wheels have better grip. On my Trooper I actually have a guage that tells me (in a range format) how much power is going to each axle at any given time. I notice when offroading and i'm nosing down a steep incline, it shifts around 40% power to the front axle from the std. 15%, when I'm towing, the power rarely goes to more than 15% to the front axle, since the rear has extra weight on it from the axle tounge and they get more traction from this.
So my some-what unbiased opion is that you should go with a system that puts at least some power to both axles at all times. Toyota has a good system on the TLC and Sequoia that does this as well as does the MB ML series.
Actually, I am biased towards the Subaru, as we own two, one being an '01 Forester.
My post over in the CRV area was one of the "fairly unbiased" responses you referred to. I try to be as "balanced" as I can be over on the CRV board, as to not to upset the folks over there too much. I've been down that road, and it's not fun, if you get what I mean...
Over here, and amongst friends, I tend to be more passionate. In my "very biased opinion," I believe the Subaru to have the better system, for the reasons I mentioned over there, and I agree with what Mike just expressed too.
I'm about to do my first DIY oil change on my 2002 S+ and would like to hear any recommendations or useful tricks that the manual doesn't tell. The initial 3.5k oil change was done by a dealer and they used Castrol 15W40, I don't know what brand Subaru OEM's as filter.
I found my dealer uses Havoline (5W-30?). I did my first oil change ~3K miles ago with Valvoline 5W-30 and this week will switch to Mobil 1 5W-30. I have 10K on my OB. The Subaru filters are made by Purolator. So either Subaru, Purolator or Pure One (Purolator also) work well. The OEMs don't necessarily cost more, so some on the board just stay with the OEM as I do. You need the metal gasket for the drain plug - smooth, flat side towards the plug. Torque to 35 ft/lbs. Many of us like to fill the filter with oil before installation to get oil pressure up quickly once we start the engine. Since it is such a big plug, the oil comes out forcefully. People tend to keep the oil filler cap on initially to slow the flow. Don't forget to wax the oil pan to keep it clean.
Oil changes on our Foresters are very easy. Everything is easy to access -- just follow standard oil change procedures as for any vehicle. The only thing that you may want to do that's not mentioned in the manual is to remove the engine undercover. It'll give you better access to the oil filter and make it easier to drain the oil. Simply undo four screws on the bottom of the vehicle and two plastic tabs in the wheel wells. The tabs are a little tricky -- they're a two piece design. Pull out the center tab to release them. Don't force it or you'll end up breaking them.
15W40 sounds way to heavy for our engines. The manual recommends 5W30 and I'd use that given the cooler weather coming up.
As Greg mentioned, you can buy a Purolator oil filter for the Forester -- they're virtually identical to the OE one. Just remember to use a new crush washer everytime.
About a year ago my wife's 99 Forester S would suddenly cut out for a second or two (once at highway speed, several times at around town speed).Had it to the dealer 3 times and they could find nothing even tho they kept it for 2 days so the manager could drive it home. Been fine since until Sunday. After filling up at the gas station it cut out on the way home. I thot it might be the gas cap, so loosened and then tightened it a few clicks. In the past two days the car is hard to start. I have had to put the gas pedal to the floor to start it. What's up??
Sounds like an ECU hiccup, that eventually corrected itself. You shouldn't have to use the gas pedal to get her started, so I'd have a dealer look at that (keep it over night, so it's cold when they first try to crank it). Have you tried changing brands of gas?
For the oil change, I have some photos and tips here. It's a 17mm crush washer, IIRC.
CR-V has a small edge in ground clearance and approach/departure angles, but the Forester's AWD system is superior, IMO. It's full-time, proactive, and offers an optional rear limited slip diffy. Both diffys are wide open on the CR-V. Subaru's ABS is a 4-channel system, while Honda uses a cheaper 3-channel system, not to mention it's standard on all Subies and available only on the EX and above Hondas.
After much research my wife is the proud new owner of an '01 Forester S w/premium package. I don't think there is a vehicle out there with which she'd be happier. We do have one question: does anyone have a recommendation for a dog guard/compartment divider to go behind the rear seats? Subaru sells one, but it seems a bit steep (our dealer's price is $181). Any and all suggestions are welcomed.
Charles Livaudais
P.S. Juice, we may see you on the Outer Banks one day. We'll probably be in our truck, however, since we typically carry about 150 lbs of windsurfing gear with us when we head out there.
Sounds fun. It's good to know the Forester would make it out there on the sand, though.
Try subaruparts.com for a price quote on the dog guard. You may want to get their phone number from the web site and call, for better service.
What about custom fitting a cargo net? You could get one for $25 or so, and then just figure a way to install the anchors. Would that hold them in? How big are the pups?
I have a 98 ford windstar and am thinking of trading it for a new forester. I've been reading the windstar boards for over a year and they are all complaints about the crappy engine. I come over here to get the scoop on the forester and everybody here seems to be in love with them. What a world of difference.
Joe- Whoa, talk about downsizing! Not sure what prompted you to get the Windstar to begin with but if you don't haul a bunch of people or a ton of cargo then the Forester's a great choice. And you're right that most of us here love our Foresters. I don't know if you've read all 2800+ posts but if you have any questions feel free to ask and we'll try to give an at least some-what unbiased answer. :-)
After months of research, we've just ordered a new Forester and are really looking forward to its arrival. My question is about the "extended warranty", which we are seriously considering. Our dealer, here in N. Calif., offered the official Subaru Added Security with the written promise of the return of 75% of its cost if unused. A friend got the same deal, and my cousin, a couple hundred miles away, got the same deal at his Subaru dealer.
Doing some checking on the internet, I found a Subaru dealer in Mass. that sells the same Subaru Added Security warranty at a 40% discount. When I asked about the 75% return, thay said that was NOT a Subaru policy.
Any ideas of what is right? Has anyone gotten this deal? What sounds better?
My 2001 Forester S has the seat heaters, which are a treat on the rare cold day here in Texas. But I also want extra 12v power up front, so I would like to install the dual power outlets which are available as an option for the L.
Obviously, there is a conflict since the power outlets and the switches for the seat heaters are meant to occupy the same space -- an either or situation.
So here is my question, for anybody who may have the answer. If I can creatively overcome the location conflict, will the electrical system safely support both devices?
Thanks, Mike. Even though the guy at the MA dealer swore HIS was the official Subaru warranty, I wonder if divisions (I'd be in the Western) are treated differently. The 75% return policy seeems like a pretty good sales point.
Alan- I've not heard of that refund policy before. Couple of questions:
How much are they asking for the policy? (FYI: you can usually get the Subaru plan for around a $1,000)
Is it for sure Subaru's own plan?
Is the refund policy transferable if you decide to sell your Forester?
If it's the real deal, then it might not be a bad idea to get and use as a kind of insurance policy. You'd pay for any small repairs out of pocket and only invoke the policy if something major broke.
How does the forrester compare to the Outback Sport in 0-60 and 1/4 mile numbers? Given that both have the same engine and transmission, is the Forrester any less inspiring to drive?
I noticed two things that are minor annoyances on my 2002 L. The first is that the two rubber stoppers found on the top and bottom of each front door pop off very easily. Whenever I take it to a car wash i'm sure to be missing one or two of them from the guy towel drying the car. Why didn't Subaru make these a tighter fit. The back doors have them that way.
The second thing is I noticed recently was that the back wheel wells are finished off nicely with a rubber stripping all along the metal but the fronts have the painted metal and some holes which appear as if something should have been put there. I looked in the lot at the dealer thinking they had forgotten mine but all of the Foresters were like that.
Windstar is a lot bigger. Make sure the space in the Forester meets your needs. If so, it ought to be a lot more reliable and efficient.
Hmm, anyone add any electical gizmos? You could just get one of those splitters, but I'm not sure how many accessories the lighter could power.
I drove an Outback Sport earlier this year, for the fun of it. I felt that acceleration was about the same, no better, than my Forester. I was a bit surprised, as I thought the OBS would be quicker.
Edmunds just reviewed one, but the auto took 10.3 to reach 60mph:
Forester autos have been clocked faster than that, with both the Washington Post and Motorweek hitting 60 in just 9.1 seconds. Could be a green engine in the OBS, though.
I don't see a significant difference, though. Let your test drive preferences decide which you prefer. Forester offers more space and ground clearance, while the Outback Sport is a little more nimble and sportier.
Consumer Reports tells people that an extended warranty is usually a waste of money (UNLESS you buy a vehicle known to be unreliable) and a highly profitable item for dealers. There are aftermarket warranties that cost less. For most of these warranties, it is not necessary to make a decision until the original factory warranty is about to run out. However, the rates keep going up each year.
CU says that you can take the money you would have spent on the warranty, save it at interest, and use it to pay for any repairs that come along. Lately, I have begun to question this.
Although Foresters have been reliable, there are several problems that could have been potentially costly for owners. I had both the clutch problem and rear bearing failure problem, plus several oil seal failures. The clutch would have cost over $700, the oil seal failures several hundred, and drive shaft and related parts over $650, if they had not been covered under the original factory drivetrain warranty.
On a previous car (not Subaru) that had been quite reliable after some initial warranty problems, I had an air conditioning failure that would have cost over $700. Some Forester owners have reported that the clutch and bearing problems have recurred after being intially repaired.
If 2 or 3 of these happen in the lifetime of the car, it could make an extended warranty very worthwhile. The problem is, most have too many exclusions and are too short for me because I keep cars a long time.
I had ben considering the Warranty Gold Diamond plan that runs 5 years and 150,000 miles. If you wait to buy until the factory warranty is nearly expired, it could be a good deal, because the 5 years begins at the time of purchase. Of course, the price goes up each year you wait.
But, I have heard that there have been problems getting the warranty honored. Does anyone have any information their performance?
Juice- Wow, 10.3 to reach 60? There must have been something wrong with the engine. Since the OBS is about 300lbs lighter that the Forester, it should be a couple tenths of a sec faster to 60.
Yeah, but 0-60 doesn't mean all that much. The Trooper has great torque to haul full payloads and trailers, something the numbers just can't show.
If you go with the Subaru warranty, you'll most likely get the best service. For $1000, if you are concerned about sudden expenses, and would rather just pay a little more per month instead of a big bill down the road, it may be worth it.
Murphy's Law - if you get it, your Forester will never have a problem in its lifetime! If you don't, you'll have 1-2 problems within the warranty period.
Two key issues - how long is the warranty term? 5 years B2B? 10 years powertrain? The other issue is what deductable would you have to pay.
Frank: it's probably due to a hot day, a green engine, and perhaps a little sample variance.
Another odd note: the Outback Sport actually has smaller diameter tires, so gearing is effectively shorter. Perhaps an extra shift is required just before 60mph? I don't know...
You may recall that many Forester owners had problems with the Geolandars wearing excessively on the outer edge of the tires (some wearing out in as little as 18,000 miles)and this was attributed by some people to misalignments. Others have said that their Geolandars lasted 50,000 miles or more.
I replaced my Geolandars at 30,000 miles with B.F. Goodrich Touring T/As and I have been monitoring the tread wear since. I did NOT do any alignment since I bought the Forester.
At 54,000 miles (24,000 on the new tires), the tread wear is absolutely even across the tread to the extreme outer edge. The tires are 60% worn, however tread wear slows down as the tire ages, so I expect them to last around 50,000 miles.
So, I have to conclude that the premature wear was a design or manufacturing flaw in at least some of the Geolandars. These were made exclusively for the Forester and are not supplied as original equipment on any other vehicle, so no comparison can be made.
The wife and I are looking at purchasing a mini-SUV/wagon/whatever you want to call them...
Facts: Live in Pittsburgh. Mostly will be the wife's car. No children, but we're 'almost' ready. No need for off-road -at least not intentionally - capabilities. Want 4WD/AWD, ABS. Do some material transportation (our Lab, home DIY stuff).
We've tested the Forester and liked it very much. Good power on a pretty steep hill - with the AC cranked up. Controls well laid out. ABS worked well (we didn't intentionally try this - a deer ran in front of us!! Roads were wet.) Stereo was not the best and I'm no audiophyle. Back seats could have used a little more room. Those cup holders suck! (We're leaning toward this)
Tested the CRV. Roomy. Conrolls well placed (I own a 99 Civic, and the cabins are almost identical). When we tried to go up a steep hill (no AC this time) the tranny just couldn't find the right gear.
XTerra - Too big for us. Too much $ for us. Very nice, though.
Testing the Tribute tonight...
Never really looked at the Outback. Should we? What are the differences between the Forester and OB? It seemed like the Forester had more cargo space, but does it? I guess we'll be heading back to the Sooby dealer...
Thanks for letting me rant. Any imput is greatly appreciated. Chris
Comments
1) Hold both buttons on the remote (panic button) for 15 seconds
2) Pull the 2 small connectors on the 'black box' behind the fusebox in the cabin (leave large connector and medium connector).
Neither of these things worked. Anybody here know how this can be done correctly (without cutting the speaker wire)?
Thanks
-mike
- Hutch
Getting rid of the arm/disarm noise is handled by changing a dip switch position on the main alarm head unit. It's a bit tricky to get under the dash and access the unit, but I did it in less than an hour with taking my time.
Check out the following link on how to do it:
http://www.scoobymods.com/mods/ impreza/rsalarm.php
http://www.scoobymods.com/mods/impreza/ silentarming.php
Ken
Price is good but their service is awful.
-juice
Is the consesus that with a 2002 Subaru Forester S
one would be better off using snows as opposed to the Yokohamas it came with? And if so, which ones would you recommend(size and where best to buy)
Thanks in advance.
I live in upstate NY and the winters are not terrible but not mild!
If you don't have a good local tire dealer, Tire Rack (tirerack.com) has wheel & tire packages for competitive prices as well as good info to shop by. Good luck and enjoy your new Forester.
-mike
Greg
-mike
Just kidding,
Dave
I just signed the paperwork today for 2002 Forester L. They are trying to sell me environmental package for $599 and extended warranty for $1300. Live in Syracuse, NY, car in garage overnight.
Any thoughts?
I've seen warranty quotes as low as $900. Yours is the highest I've seen, to be honest. If you want one, keep haggling, you should at least be able to break $1000.
-juice
He said to turn it a few clicks and the light should shut off in a couple of days. If not I should bring it in. Has anyone heard of this happening. I'm concerned that it is something more serious. I only have had it 4 mos and have approx. 4700 miles on it. Thanks for any info.
If you wax and garage the car, its environment will be OK. + Scotchgard the seats every year or two; $6.00 at K-mart.
I do recommend a couple of other expenditures:
- If you know a top alignment shop, pay them to check the front and rear alignment early - and adjust it if necessary. The dealers seem to be sloppy about this. My car came misaligned and roughed up the tires early on until I got it realigned. The dealer just didn't acknowledge the problem. $50 well spent.
- Buy takeoff rims and snow tires. They'll extend the life of the OEM tires, which are only fair in snow. And your Forester will be able to go through VERY deep snow and stop better on ice. I live near Albany, so I know what sort of winter you're up against.
Enjoy your Forester!
John
Ross
-mike
If your CEL doesn't go out by itself after a few days then have the dealer look at it. It could just need resetting but there's a possibility that you could have a bad oxygen sensor (another frequent culprit for the CEL).
-Frank P.
Please be patient for a little bit more. I think it will be next month that more information with a fix (no parts from what I understand) will be available.
We appreciate the feedback we received here. Hopefully, all will be well within a couple of weeks for those of you annoyed by a particular brake noise in these models. I'll post more as soon as I have it.
Patti
If you really want the warranty, negotiate for a price of $900 or less. Or, you can look at aftermarket warranties. Some are better and cheaper, and you can get them OR the Subaru extended warranty up until the original warranty runs out. So, don't let them pressure you.
Apparently this scary phenomenon is not uncommon across a wide range of ABS system and car manufacturers. In the WRX, the sport-tuned suspension and weak tires might have something to do with provoking the situation.
So here's my question - Has this ever happened to anyone in their Forester? Or other Subaru products? The Forester is on my short list for a spring purchase (as is the WRX) and safety is a concern.
Thanks - Jim
-Frank P.
Ross
My question is two-fold. Part one - is the CRV Realtime 4wd system (a "reactive" system) as effective Subaru's AWD system (an "active" system) in the fluffy white stuff? Part two - does it really make a tangible difference?
I floated this balloon over on the CRV board and got a fairly unbiased reaction. I'd like to hear from Subie fans, too.
Thanks - Jim
Since there is power already being applied to the non-main drive axle, it can compensate quicker. Also both the Isuzu TOD and the AT system on the Subies uses not only the ABS sensors to detect slippage, but they also have weight sensors that detect if the front or rear axle has more weight on it, and shift more power to that axle. For instance on a hard launch, you have more weight on the rear axle of a subaru, that 80/20 split may become 60/40 at that time because your rear wheels have better grip. On my Trooper I actually have a guage that tells me (in a range format) how much power is going to each axle at any given time. I notice when offroading and i'm nosing down a steep incline, it shifts around 40% power to the front axle from the std. 15%, when I'm towing, the power rarely goes to more than 15% to the front axle, since the rear has extra weight on it from the axle tounge and they get more traction from this.
So my some-what unbiased opion is that you should go with a system that puts at least some power to both axles at all times. Toyota has a good system on the TLC and Sequoia that does this as well as does the MB ML series.
-mike
My post over in the CRV area was one of the "fairly unbiased" responses you referred to. I try to be as "balanced" as I can be over on the CRV board, as to not to upset the folks over there too much. I've been down that road, and it's not fun, if you get what I mean...
Over here, and amongst friends, I tend to be more passionate. In my "very biased opinion," I believe the Subaru to have the better system, for the reasons I mentioned over there, and I agree with what Mike just expressed too.
Bob
The initial 3.5k oil change was done by a dealer and they used Castrol 15W40, I don't know what brand Subaru OEM's as filter.
Good luck,
Greg
15W40 sounds way to heavy for our engines. The manual recommends 5W30 and I'd use that given the cooler weather coming up.
As Greg mentioned, you can buy a Purolator oil filter for the Forester -- they're virtually identical to the OE one. Just remember to use a new crush washer everytime.
Ken
For the oil change, I have some photos and tips here. It's a 17mm crush washer, IIRC.
CR-V has a small edge in ground clearance and approach/departure angles, but the Forester's AWD system is superior, IMO. It's full-time, proactive, and offers an optional rear limited slip diffy. Both diffys are wide open on the CR-V. Subaru's ABS is a 4-channel system, while Honda uses a cheaper 3-channel system, not to mention it's standard on all Subies and available only on the EX and above Hondas.
-juice
After much research my wife is the proud new owner of an '01 Forester S w/premium package. I don't think there is a vehicle out there with which she'd be happier. We do have one question: does anyone have a recommendation for a dog guard/compartment divider to go behind the rear seats? Subaru sells one, but it seems a bit steep (our dealer's price is $181). Any and all suggestions are welcomed.
Charles Livaudais
P.S. Juice, we may see you on the Outer Banks one day. We'll probably be in our truck, however, since we typically carry about 150 lbs of windsurfing gear with us when we head out there.
Try subaruparts.com for a price quote on the dog guard. You may want to get their phone number from the web site and call, for better service.
What about custom fitting a cargo net? You could get one for $25 or so, and then just figure a way to install the anchors. Would that hold them in? How big are the pups?
-juice
-Frank P.
Doing some checking on the internet, I found a Subaru dealer in Mass. that sells the same Subaru Added Security warranty at a 40% discount. When I asked about the 75% return, thay said that was NOT a Subaru policy.
Any ideas of what is right? Has anyone gotten this deal? What sounds better?
Thanks!
Alan G.
It's a warranty from the company that takes care of car sales/distribution in the New England States. That is why the cars cost more up there as well.
-mike
My 2001 Forester S has the seat heaters, which are a treat on the rare cold day here in Texas. But I also want extra 12v power up front, so I would like to install the dual power outlets which are available as an option for the L.
Obviously, there is a conflict since the power outlets and the switches for the seat heaters are meant to occupy the same space -- an either or situation.
So here is my question, for anybody who may have the answer. If I can creatively overcome the location conflict, will the electrical system safely support both devices?
Cheers,
Scott
Alan G.
How much are they asking for the policy? (FYI: you can usually get the Subaru plan for around a $1,000)
Is it for sure Subaru's own plan?
Is the refund policy transferable if you decide to sell your Forester?
If it's the real deal, then it might not be a bad idea to get and use as a kind of insurance policy. You'd pay for any small repairs out of pocket and only invoke the policy if something major broke.
-Frank P.
Thanks,
Jon
The second thing is I noticed recently was that the back wheel wells are finished off nicely with a rubber stripping all along the metal but the fronts have the painted metal and some holes which appear as if something should have been put there. I looked in the lot at the dealer thinking they had forgotten mine but all of the Foresters were like that.
Hmm, anyone add any electical gizmos? You could just get one of those splitters, but I'm not sure how many accessories the lighter could power.
I drove an Outback Sport earlier this year, for the fun of it. I felt that acceleration was about the same, no better, than my Forester. I was a bit surprised, as I thought the OBS would be quicker.
Edmunds just reviewed one, but the auto took 10.3 to reach 60mph:
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/roadtests/roadtest/47676/article.html
Forester autos have been clocked faster than that, with both the Washington Post and Motorweek hitting 60 in just 9.1 seconds. Could be a green engine in the OBS, though.
I don't see a significant difference, though. Let your test drive preferences decide which you prefer. Forester offers more space and ground clearance, while the Outback Sport is a little more nimble and sportier.
-juice
CU says that you can take the money you would have spent on the warranty, save it at interest, and use it to pay for any repairs that come along. Lately, I have begun to question this.
Although Foresters have been reliable, there are several problems that could have been potentially costly for owners. I had both the clutch problem and rear bearing failure problem, plus several oil seal failures. The clutch would have cost over $700, the oil seal failures several hundred, and drive shaft and related parts over $650, if they had not been covered under the original factory drivetrain warranty.
On a previous car (not Subaru) that had been quite reliable after some initial warranty problems, I had an air conditioning failure that would have cost over $700. Some Forester owners have reported that the clutch and bearing problems have recurred after being intially repaired.
If 2 or 3 of these happen in the lifetime of the car, it could make an extended warranty very worthwhile. The problem is, most have too many exclusions and are too short for me because I keep cars a long time.
I had ben considering the Warranty Gold Diamond plan that runs 5 years and 150,000 miles. If you wait to buy until the factory warranty is nearly expired, it could be a good deal, because the 5 years begins at the time of purchase. Of course, the price goes up each year you wait.
But, I have heard that there have been problems getting the warranty honored. Does anyone have any information their performance?
-mike
-Frank P.
If you go with the Subaru warranty, you'll most likely get the best service. For $1000, if you are concerned about sudden expenses, and would rather just pay a little more per month instead of a big bill down the road, it may be worth it.
Murphy's Law - if you get it, your Forester will never have a problem in its lifetime! If you don't, you'll have 1-2 problems within the warranty period.
Two key issues - how long is the warranty term? 5 years B2B? 10 years powertrain? The other issue is what deductable would you have to pay.
-juice
Another odd note: the Outback Sport actually has smaller diameter tires, so gearing is effectively shorter. Perhaps an extra shift is required just before 60mph? I don't know...
-juice
I replaced my Geolandars at 30,000 miles with B.F. Goodrich Touring T/As and I have been monitoring the tread wear since. I did NOT do any alignment since I bought the Forester.
At 54,000 miles (24,000 on the new tires), the tread wear is absolutely even across the tread to the extreme outer edge. The tires are 60% worn, however tread wear slows down as the tire ages, so I expect them to last around 50,000 miles.
So, I have to conclude that the premature wear was a design or manufacturing flaw in at least some of the Geolandars. These were made exclusively for the Forester and are not supplied as original equipment on any other vehicle, so no comparison can be made.
The wife and I are looking at purchasing a mini-SUV/wagon/whatever you want to call them...
Facts: Live in Pittsburgh. Mostly will be the wife's car. No children, but we're 'almost' ready. No need for off-road -at least not intentionally
We've tested the Forester and liked it very much. Good power on a pretty steep hill - with the AC cranked up. Controls well laid out. ABS worked well (we didn't intentionally try this - a deer ran in front of us!! Roads were wet.) Stereo was not the best and I'm no audiophyle. Back seats could have used a little more room. Those cup holders suck! (We're leaning toward this)
Tested the CRV. Roomy. Conrolls well placed (I own a 99 Civic, and the cabins are almost identical). When we tried to go up a steep hill (no AC this time) the tranny just couldn't find the right gear.
XTerra - Too big for us. Too much $ for us. Very nice, though.
Testing the Tribute tonight...
Never really looked at the Outback. Should we? What are the differences between the Forester and OB? It seemed like the Forester had more cargo space, but does it? I guess we'll be heading back to the Sooby dealer...
Thanks for letting me rant. Any imput is greatly appreciated.
Chris