Rocco- Artist renditions aren't usually known for there accuracy. However thanks, I'd forgotten about that page and the details it includes. I beleive though that it addresses the Japanese spec Forester which is different from what we get as evidenced by the statement: "Good news is the turbo engine will survive in the line up" We obviously don't currently have a turbo option to survive.
I have read the posts about the OEM tires on the Forester and the hesitation. I too recall many posts on the vmag subaru boards about this. I never in 4 years of ownership of my 98 5 speed forester (which I traded this summer on a 5 speed wrx wagon) had any of the hesitation problems. I have never had any hesitation problems with the 98 rs that my wife owns. And as for hesitation and my wrx, HA! You had better not hesitate if you are pulled up to a stoplight next to me. As to the "dangerous" Dueler L tires. Why do people take so much pleasure in running down Bridgestone? My first set lasted 48,000 miles, wore evenly and were excellent in snow. I had another 14,000 on a second set. I never rotated them. The clutch was the only problem with my Forester and it was working ok when traded in. At 5000 miles my wrx has been perfect.
Ken, here are som thoughts about the WRX vs. the Forester:
Bad: I miss some of the interior touches like the sunglasses holder, rear power outlet, armrest storage compartments etc. I added the cargo tray and rear bumper cover to make it more like the Forester in that regard. 1 less mpg city and 20 cents more per gallon of gas I could do without. don't know if it will be as good in the snow but if my wifes's 98 rs is an example I should not have any problems. Liked the power lock rocker switches on forester better. Liked the power mirror rocker placement on Forester better. Cup holders no better than before.
Good: obvious is performance and handling. What I did not expect: quieter and smoother engine than Forester. Sounds real cool at high rpm. Forester strained at high rpm. More front legroom and therefore seats can be adjusted forward better for better rear legroom. Much better stereo. variable intermittent wipers front and intermittent wiper rear is a fantastic improvement. Front seats are fantastic. Lighted glove box. rear seat no longer reclines so it does not click through several positions as you raise or lower it. Shifter is a smooth as Honda and so is clutch.
Best: never stop getting comments and questions about it. TWRX
I bought a forrester late last winter. it snowed. I became an instant belivever. Will never buy another mercedes or anything else for that matter. Everything is strong and overengineered like mercdedes used to be back in th4e early seventies. Help-i cant stop driving the thing and cannot wait for next bad weather. Suggest new slogan -- youll get there-my guift to subaru from my new company-slogans that sell . I lvoe it i love it i love it.
I hear you man - I feel the same way about my Outback and rain! (It doesn't snow where I live!) I've had mine for several months and despite a couple of annoying issues we're trying to resolve, I'm waiting for the honeymoon to end! Having driven BMWs, a Volvo, a Jeep, and a Jag, I feel the same way re Subies vs. ANYTHING else! The intersting thing is, that what Subaru has had figured out for a very long time, others are beginning to catch on... ie AWD in Jaguar X-type, Volvo XC, Audi All Road Quattro. Even my wife who has a "Point A to Point B" view on cars agrees that the Subie is something different.
I don't know, but I have Bridgestones on my Trooper as OEM tires, work just fine in snow, wet. My buddy has a 2.5RS and he isn't "performance driver" and finds the tires to be just fine in snow (upstate NY) and all other conditions. They aren't GREAT but then again you aren't buying a $50K SUV or a $40K luxury car. What do you want for ~$20K???
Reality check time. Marketing an AWD is for cold weather use. That means snow, ice, cold rain, slush, black ice. Not very common in warmer regions of No. America, so Frank from Atlanta, come on down for a winter. It was fun when some of my "southern" trainees first enxperienced a cold or snowy bivouac up north. Something akin to fear and loathing the first day or two. We buy a product for it to do what it is supposed to do, nothing more...but certainly not less. If some want to be uncritical and enthusiasts, that's OK. Don't accuse the real experience of other than what it is. And, check out the ratings in CR for the Dueler. "Poor" on snow/ice. Subaru owes this to the majority of consumers who by the AWD for what it can do when the s--- hits the fan from October thru April.
I would like to ask the opinion of those who own a Forester whether the add-ons for the S are worth it, from either L or S owners.
I'm in the market for a vehicle, my list is down to a CR-V, Forester, and Camry, all 2002. Yeah, I know, the Camry is not AWD, but the 4 cylinder gets 32 mpg and I work 22 miles from home. Waiting until I see the price on the CR-V before I buy.
I bought an "S" in '99 mostly because of the heated mirrors and windshield wiper defroster. I live in upstate NY where snow, ice and freezing rain are common in winter. I wouldn't want to be without those features again. Nothing like tapping a switch to clear up or de-ice the side view mirrors. I also like the heated seats and rear disc brakes, but wouldn't have considered them a must-have. The "S" lower cladding looks better to me as well.
On the "S", the Yokohama H/Ts are terrific in wet and dry, but only fair in snow. If you live in a snowy area, consider separate rims and winter tires for the "S". I find they make a difference; this car can go (and stop) anywhere with the right tires.
At 82K miles, I still love this car and plan to keep it a long time. It's a real pleasure to drive. Good luck with your choice.
Cape- It would certainly be dangerous if you raced them or the likes in the snow. So, what do you mean by dangerous? I've got OEM Bridgestones RE92 on my '99 OBS, and admittedly, they are not that great on snow but I've not found myself doing a cheap imitation of a flying saucer with them. Overall, it gets me from A -> B without any pee in my pants drama. The tire selection offered by SoA is probably the best broadbase compromise to compliment the vehilcle. Do we have twelve months of winter? Ok, say SoA provided an OEM tire that performs better in snow. I'll bet you'll be here whining about how noisy they are and how much they s_cked in dry conditions. Hey, tires are not fixed dead to the wheels. Wheels are removable too. Change to winter tires to suit the needs of your winter condition. My 2 sen.
I would choose the S over the L, not because of the amenities, but because of the performance upgrades alone: rear disc brakes, alloy wheels, rear limited slip differential.
You can upgrade an L, but it would be difficult to install the brakes as well as the rear diffy. Also, the heated seats/mirrors/wiper deicer are nice features too.
First, thanks for all of the help. We chose the Forester L in Forest Green. We had it down to the Forester and the Legacy wagon and the wife, "liked the Forester look better.' We got it for $200 over invoice.
They are offering the 'Added Security' plans. 6yrs/60k - $630, 6yrs/80k - $792, 5yrs/100k - $999, 6yrs/100k - $1098, and 7yrs/100k - $1242.
We definitely plan on keeping the car for at least the 7yr/100k. Does anybody have any experience with these plans?
As for extended warranties, I'd wait until right before the factory B2B warranty runs out. Double check with the dealer, but you should be able to buy an extended warranty while your original warranty is still valid. Why put good money down now for something you're not sure you'll need three years down the line?
My personal opinion is that extended warranties are not worth the money. Unless you're buying a vehicle with poor reliability (not the case with Subarus), then it may pay off. Remember, you're also protected with a powertrain warranty out till 5/60.
Now, for the tires --- Subaru's are sold throughout the U. S. When selecting a tire, they have tchoose something that suits all weather environments. A snow tire is noisier, but may suit some folks needs more.
On a personal level, I've driven in some very rough snow/ice situations on OEM tires in a lot of various models and I have never had a problem. Also, we do not have "issues" with the tires performing poorly.
If you are in an area that requires a tire better suited for a lot of snow and ice, they are available. But as a manufacturer, we have to provide a tire that seems to suit all of our owners.
The reason I was suggesting that a message to our C. S. department be sent if you are unhappy with the performance of the tires, is so we can track complaints. Since we don't have many, I don't see them changing them down the road.
Via this board, I can try to answer questions or direct people to the correct source, but we don't use it to quantify complaints.
Up late doing your usual great job keeping up informed on Subarus I see. Thanks, we appreciate it. Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I have a 2002 L and am thinking about getting a bike rack. I see in my accessories brochure that Subaru offers two choices. One for on top of the roof rack and the other in the rear of the vehicle. Does anyone have any pros or cons with either. I may also want to add a trailer in the future to tow a small pop trailer.
I, too, am in a bit of a quandary. I live in snow country -- Minneapolis, MN and am not feeling too secure in my Yoko Geos right now. (Also just found out they've got about 6 months worth of tread left.) I need to have all seasons 'cz I don't have the room to store winter tires. After doing much research I've found that there is very little available with great snow traction and decent handling in my size, 215/60/16. I've also become a bit of a "mudder" in my old age, and I'd like to continue doing that. I'd also like to keep my H rating.
OK . . . 1. Nokian NRW looks real good but it comes in 225/60/16 and 225/55/16. Both tires will throw my speedometer off by about 1 mile at 60 mph. a) Has anyone with the Forester S changed tire size by a small increment and what was your experience with it? I'm really concerned whether the larger tire will hit anything. b) Does changing the tire size by less than 3% invalidate any warranties, in particular the power train? c) The NRWs have a 50,000 mile warranty, but does anyone know how long they really last?
Since I am also balking at the Nokian price (YIKES! EEK! KAPLUNK . . !) I'm looking for alternatives. (I'm also posting this on Tires, Tires, Tires.)
Is there any word up on BF Goodrich Control T/A M80? Tire Rack doesn't carry it, so I can't check that way. My mechanic recommended it to me as good for my purpose, but I can't find anything on it except on the BF Goodrich page. I know the Control T/A M65 is a great tire on snow/ice and has good handing, but does not come in my size and is not "H".
Same here, TWRX. I actually thought the Bridgestones were pretty good in the light snow we get in the DC area. I would actually look forward to snow (still do, but my new tires are not as good).
Michael: I like that the S gets a rear LSD. I had 15" rims and got 16" rims and can say handling improved notably. The L is a good value, though, and the cladding is very scratch resistant and easy to clean. But get the S Premium for that awesome roof!
Wow, 82k miles? Anyone have more than that?
Mike: if you need a hitch anyway, the bike rack that mounts on the hitch is nice because it's easy to load and keeps the bikes away from the car. It even tilts away so you can open the hatch, and still have the roof available for a cargo carrier, like I have. Thumbs up. Check out the last few photos here.
Noelle: I have 225/60R16s now, but my wheels are not stock. They have an offset that puts the tires farther away from the spring base in the rear. I'm guessing 225s would fit, but it would be an extremely tight fit, with stock rims.
I'll tell you what not to get for snow, my Nitto NT460 touring tires. They are quiet and handle dry roads well, even wet roads well. But in snow they are pretty useless.
I checked Tirerack.com and skimmed through the 74 personal reviews for the Michelin Artic Alpins. They come in 215/70/15. Overall, I'd estimate the average rating to be about 7.5 out of a possible 10 -- a favorable impression. Anyone on this board have experience with these? And if these were tested in the November CR, could someone please share the results? Thanks, Joe
I've been scanning the other messages to see if anyone else has had this same problem before I posted, but I could only find one reference to it.
I have a 2001 Forester S+ and it has a little over 15K miles on it. I've been very pleased with it so far... up until now. It has this HORRIBLE hesitation problem when I press the accelerator, and I just noticed that it only occurs with the A/C on (now that it's cooler, we're not using it as often). I've taken it in to the dealership here in Charleston, SC three (3) separate times trying to get it repaired, but they say they can't duplicate or find the problem. I certainly don't know why because it constantly does it with me!
Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what was done to solve the problem? I'm so frustrated that I'm almost ready to sell it!
BTW, I actually cut a hole in the plastic cover last time, so next time I change the oil I'll try it without removing the entire cover. We'll see if it gets messy or not.
Ben: is it auto or manual? I'm guessing automatic from your symptoms. Sounds like the transmission is in 2nd or 3rd gear, and has to pause and kick down to 1st when you hit the gas. The A/C compressor is sort of a leach on the engine, so it just exagerates the pause.
But have it looked at. The tranny should remain in 1st for best starts.
I don't have any specifc knowledge of the Subaru bike options, but did want to offer that many of the higher end combination rack systems fit in easily over the roof rack, and offer many attachments to make a very versitle system. Thule and Yakima are the biggest names, but you can also find knockoffs that fit interchangably with other brands. I use a roof system, and have attachments for skis, bikes, a canoe, and a storage box.
Rackzone.com has a wizard which will show you choices for your car. Good for info, but shop around. Hope this helps.
Just a note to say we bought the Husky liners F/R for our 2002 Forester. They fit like a glove, and look great! I ordered directly from Husky.
Now the real kick. What is the standard procedure for changing the oil yourself in this car? I have changed the oil for 30years in other cars, but do I have to take the cover off to do this, and how is this done?
I currently use the Mich. Arctic Alpin on my mini-van and have been very happy. I bought them because they had good dry road performance. Around here the roads are clear and dry 80% of the time, even in the winter. They actually handle BETTER on dry roads than my Mich. X-Ones, and they are quiet and comfortable riding too! Their snow and ice performance has been fine on my 2WD mini-van, so should be great with AWD. If I lived in an area with constant, deep snow I might have gone with Blizzaks.
In checking my 30,000 mile service, it says that the differential and service case needs to be serviced (if applicable). Is this referring to rear differential and do only certain foresters have it? I'm not sure if this pertains to me or not. Thanks for any help.
All Foresters have front and rear differentials. The front is incorporated into the gear box, so it shares gear oil with that (at least with manual trannies). The rear is self enclosed. You can see it pretty clearly in this photo.
Changing the gear oil is matter of removing the two large bolts on the back side, draining the old oil, then replacing just the lower bolt, filling it up until it begins to spill out, and replacing the 2nd bolt. The catch is I've heard these are sealed tight with some kind of epoxy so you'd need a 1/2" drive and some serious torque to get them loose.
You can change the gear oils at 30k miles, but my guess is most people wait until 60k (or never do it at all).
Phil: I have some oil change tips with photos here.
Hey, my PhotoPoint account is really coming in handy today. :-)
There's some definite pros and cons to consider re: what type of bike rack to get. As a very enthusiastic cyclist (some of my bikes have cost more than some of my cars), I can tell you that on the roof is usually the preferred method.
It keeps mud, splashes, and most road grit off the bike and it ensures that your bike doesn't get damaged (or do further damage to the car) in the event of a rear end collision. Also, it doesn't contact any paint on the car, which preserves the finish (I don't know if the rear mount you're considering does touch the paint or not -- not all do.)
BUT, it does put the bike up in the air, so you'll hear more road noise and also pick up a few bugs on the handlebars. Also, gotta watch those low garages and drive-thrus. It has required some careful planning when my wife and I take the Washington state ferries (low clearance).
The Yakima racks integrate very well on this car. And, they take advantage of one of the Forester's better traits: rock solid side rails. I think Yakima makes the Subaru attachments -- you might get a better price through REI than through your local Sube dealer
If you're just looking for an easy way to schelp a bike to the local bike path, then the hitch rack would be fine. Else, I'd go roof.
Happy riding!
Ken Yakima (where there is no joy in Mudville, the Mariners having gotten whacked), WA
I think Ken stated the case for a roof rack well. I have used both a rear and a roof rack and feel the roof rack offers a more secure way of transporting your bike. I specifically prefer one with a front fork clamp, carrying the front tire inside. Yakima makes a good product which fastens easily to the rails. I use the Copperhead model which, incidently, was supplied by IMBA during a promotion.
I will say nothing beats carrying the bike inside the wagon. My wife and I have had no problem doing this and finding plenty of space for gear along side the frames.
Thanks for the input. I suppose If I were to get the Artic Alpin tires for a Forester, the correct tire size is 205/70/15, not what I stated in my original inquiry.
Thanks for responding, first of all. A.J., it's an automatic, and the transmission DOES sometimes hesitate or pause - especially when going from reverse to drive.
And Patti, to answer your question, NO, the dealership here did NOT test drive the car with me. After the 2nd time of taking the car in for this problem, they kept the car for 2 days, gave me a loaner car, and then said they drove it for over 50 miles and could not find a problem with it. And that's bogus... because it still does it for me!!! Any person in their right mind could see that there is a problem with this car.
I would be thrilled to give you a call.. would you mind posting the number? or email me at BENinCHAS@aol.com...
As a relatively new Subie owner preparing for the first winter driving with AWD (can't wait!!), are there any winterizing tips or tricks that other Forester owners would like to share?
Thanks for the advice. I had an old 900 Saab and the BB at saabnet.com was great. I hope to keep up with this BB with our new Forester. So far though, the car runs great, with a ride and handling that is wonderful. We are very pleased with our choice over the Honda CR-V. Phil
Has anyone heard anything about the Subaru's special financing -- the present rates are supposed to expire today. Are they being extended/any new schemes ?
Ok, I'm nowhere near needing to do this - just brought my 02 Forester home yesterday - but, does any one have any suggestions for changing the plugs on these things? It doesn't appear to be extremely difficult, but it looks like you'll need to take apart a few things first.
I'm not very handy around cars - oil change, and plugs are about it - so any tips on 'Adventures in Plug Changes on a Flat Engine' are appreciated.
Probably had too many [insert word that ryhmes with raced out] comments! j/k I've seen more people leave edmunds due to differences with them and their policies.
Comments
-Frank P.
-juice
TWRX
So how do you like the WRX compared to the Forester? What stands out (other than the obvious power increase)? Do you miss anything about the Forester?
What did the dealer give you on a trade in?
Just curious, being a 98 Forester S owner myself.
Ken
Bad: I miss some of the interior touches like the sunglasses holder, rear power outlet, armrest storage compartments etc. I added the cargo tray and rear bumper cover to make it more like the Forester in that regard. 1 less mpg city and 20 cents more per gallon of gas I could do without. don't know if it will be as good in the snow but if my wifes's 98 rs is an example I should not have any problems. Liked the power lock rocker switches on forester better. Liked the power mirror rocker placement on Forester better. Cup holders no better than before.
Good: obvious is performance and handling. What I did not expect: quieter and smoother engine than Forester. Sounds real cool at high rpm. Forester strained at high rpm. More front legroom and therefore seats can be adjusted forward better for better rear legroom. Much better stereo. variable intermittent wipers front and intermittent wiper rear is a fantastic improvement. Front seats are fantastic. Lighted glove box. rear seat no longer reclines so it does not click through several positions as you raise or lower it. Shifter is a smooth as Honda and so is clutch.
Best: never stop getting comments and questions about it.
TWRX
Thanks for the comments. That's great -- although I'm still some time away from a new vehicle, I've been eyeing the WRX wagon.
So, does it feel like the rear seats have more legroom?
Ken
-mike
It was fun when some of my "southern" trainees first enxperienced a cold or snowy bivouac up north. Something akin to fear and loathing the first day or two.
We buy a product for it to do what it is supposed to do, nothing more...but certainly not less. If some want to be uncritical and enthusiasts, that's OK.
Don't accuse the real experience of other than what it is.
And, check out the ratings in CR for the Dueler. "Poor" on snow/ice. Subaru owes this to the majority of consumers who by the AWD for what it can do when the s--- hits the fan from October thru April.
tWrX
I'm in the market for a vehicle, my list is down to a CR-V, Forester, and Camry, all 2002. Yeah, I know, the Camry is not AWD, but the 4 cylinder gets 32 mpg and I work 22 miles from home. Waiting until I see the price on the CR-V before I buy.
Thanks, Michael
On the "S", the Yokohama H/Ts are terrific in wet and dry, but only fair in snow. If you live in a snowy area, consider separate rims and winter tires for the "S". I find they make a difference; this car can go (and stop) anywhere with the right tires.
At 82K miles, I still love this car and plan to keep it a long time. It's a real pleasure to drive. Good luck with your choice.
John
Cape- It would certainly be dangerous if you raced them or the likes in the snow. So, what do you mean by dangerous? I've got OEM Bridgestones RE92 on my '99 OBS, and admittedly, they are not that great on snow but I've not found myself doing a cheap imitation of a flying saucer with them. Overall, it gets me from A -> B without any pee in my pants drama.
The tire selection offered by SoA is probably the best broadbase compromise to compliment the vehilcle. Do we have twelve months of winter? Ok, say SoA provided an OEM tire that performs better in snow. I'll bet you'll be here whining about how noisy they are and how much they s_cked in dry conditions. Hey, tires are not fixed dead to the wheels. Wheels are removable too.
Change to winter tires to suit the needs of your winter condition.
My 2 sen.
-Dave
I would choose the S over the L, not because of the amenities, but because of the performance upgrades alone: rear disc brakes, alloy wheels, rear limited slip differential.
You can upgrade an L, but it would be difficult to install the brakes as well as the rear diffy. Also, the heated seats/mirrors/wiper deicer are nice features too.
Ken
They are offering the 'Added Security' plans. 6yrs/60k - $630, 6yrs/80k - $792, 5yrs/100k - $999, 6yrs/100k - $1098, and 7yrs/100k - $1242.
We definitely plan on keeping the car for at least the 7yr/100k. Does anybody have any experience with these plans?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Chris
Nice choice with the Forester!
As for extended warranties, I'd wait until right before the factory B2B warranty runs out. Double check with the dealer, but you should be able to buy an extended warranty while your original warranty is still valid. Why put good money down now for something you're not sure you'll need three years down the line?
My personal opinion is that extended warranties are not worth the money. Unless you're buying a vehicle with poor reliability (not the case with Subarus), then it may pay off. Remember, you're also protected with a powertrain warranty out till 5/60.
Ken
Now, for the tires --- Subaru's are sold throughout the U. S. When selecting a tire, they have tchoose something that suits all weather environments. A snow tire is noisier, but may suit some folks needs more.
On a personal level, I've driven in some very rough snow/ice situations on OEM tires in a lot of various models and I have never had a problem. Also, we do not have "issues" with the tires performing poorly.
If you are in an area that requires a tire better suited for a lot of snow and ice, they are available. But as a manufacturer, we have to provide a tire that seems to suit all of our owners.
The reason I was suggesting that a message to our C. S. department be sent if you are unhappy with the performance of the tires, is so we can track complaints. Since we don't have many, I don't see them changing them down the road.
Via this board, I can try to answer questions or direct people to the correct source, but we don't use it to quantify complaints.
Have a great Monday, all!
Patti
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Thanks,
Mike
OK . . .
1. Nokian NRW looks real good but it comes in 225/60/16 and 225/55/16. Both tires will throw my speedometer off by about 1 mile at 60 mph.
a) Has anyone with the Forester S changed tire size by a small increment and what was your experience with it? I'm really concerned whether the larger tire will hit anything.
b) Does changing the tire size by less than 3% invalidate any warranties, in particular the power train?
c) The NRWs have a 50,000 mile warranty, but does anyone know how long they really last?
Since I am also balking at the Nokian price (YIKES! EEK! KAPLUNK . . !) I'm looking for alternatives. (I'm also posting this on Tires, Tires, Tires.)
Is there any word up on BF Goodrich Control T/A M80? Tire Rack doesn't carry it, so I can't check that way. My mechanic recommended it to me as good for my purpose, but I can't find anything on it except on the BF Goodrich page. I know the Control T/A M65 is a great tire on snow/ice and has good handing, but does not come in my size and is not "H".
Many thanks,
Noelle
Michael: I like that the S gets a rear LSD. I had 15" rims and got 16" rims and can say handling improved notably. The L is a good value, though, and the cladding is very scratch resistant and easy to clean. But get the S Premium for that awesome roof!
Wow, 82k miles? Anyone have more than that?
Mike: if you need a hitch anyway, the bike rack that mounts on the hitch is nice because it's easy to load and keeps the bikes away from the car. It even tilts away so you can open the hatch, and still have the roof available for a cargo carrier, like I have. Thumbs up. Check out the last few photos here.
Noelle: I have 225/60R16s now, but my wheels are not stock. They have an offset that puts the tires farther away from the spring base in the rear. I'm guessing 225s would fit, but it would be an extremely tight fit, with stock rims.
I'll tell you what not to get for snow, my Nitto NT460 touring tires. They are quiet and handle dry roads well, even wet roads well. But in snow they are pretty useless.
-juice
Overall, I'd estimate the average rating to be about 7.5 out of a possible 10 -- a favorable impression. Anyone on this board have experience with these? And if these were tested in the November CR, could someone please share the results?
Thanks,
Joe
I have a 2001 Forester S+ and it has a little over 15K miles on it. I've been very pleased with it so far... up until now. It has this HORRIBLE hesitation problem when I press the accelerator, and I just noticed that it only occurs with the A/C on (now that it's cooler, we're not using it as often). I've taken it in to the dealership here in Charleston, SC three (3) separate times trying to get it repaired, but they say they can't duplicate or find the problem. I certainly don't know why because it constantly does it with me!
Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what was done to solve the problem? I'm so frustrated that I'm almost ready to sell it!
Many thanks!
Tom
I'd suggest that you call us and we can contact the dealer to see why they didn't. I'm sure we will be able to help.
Sorry for the problem. When you call, let the Rep. know that I want to see the case file so I can review what the dealer has done.
Thanks.
Patti
BTW, I actually cut a hole in the plastic cover last time, so next time I change the oil I'll try it without removing the entire cover. We'll see if it gets messy or not.
Ben: is it auto or manual? I'm guessing automatic from your symptoms. Sounds like the transmission is in 2nd or 3rd gear, and has to pause and kick down to 1st when you hit the gas. The A/C compressor is sort of a leach on the engine, so it just exagerates the pause.
But have it looked at. The tranny should remain in 1st for best starts.
-juice
Rackzone.com has a wizard which will show you choices for your car. Good for info, but shop around. Hope this helps.
Now the real kick. What is the standard procedure for changing the oil yourself in this car? I have changed the oil for 30years in other cars, but do I have to take the cover off to do this, and how is this done?
Thanks
Tom
Changing the gear oil is matter of removing the two large bolts on the back side, draining the old oil, then replacing just the lower bolt, filling it up until it begins to spill out, and replacing the 2nd bolt. The catch is I've heard these are sealed tight with some kind of epoxy so you'd need a 1/2" drive and some serious torque to get them loose.
You can change the gear oils at 30k miles, but my guess is most people wait until 60k (or never do it at all).
Phil: I have some oil change tips with photos here.
Hey, my PhotoPoint account is really coming in handy today. :-)
-juice
It keeps mud, splashes, and most road grit off the bike and it ensures that your bike doesn't get damaged (or do further damage to the car) in the event of a rear end collision. Also, it doesn't contact any paint on the car, which preserves the finish (I don't know if the rear mount you're considering does touch the paint or not -- not all do.)
BUT, it does put the bike up in the air, so you'll hear more road noise and also pick up a few bugs on the handlebars. Also, gotta watch those low garages and drive-thrus. It has required some careful planning when my wife and I take the Washington state ferries (low clearance).
The Yakima racks integrate very well on this car. And, they take advantage of one of the Forester's better traits: rock solid side rails. I think Yakima makes the Subaru attachments -- you might get a better price through REI than through your local Sube dealer
If you're just looking for an easy way to schelp a bike to the local bike path, then the hitch rack would be fine. Else, I'd go roof.
Happy riding!
Ken
Yakima (where there is no joy in Mudville, the Mariners having gotten whacked), WA
The bikes never get messy, really. Also, you only have to lift the bikes about 1 foot to mount them, instead of 6 feet.
But the main reason I opted for the hitch style was that I use a cargo carrier on the roof.
-juice
I think Ken stated the case for a roof rack well. I have used both a rear and a roof rack and feel the roof rack offers a more secure way of transporting your bike. I specifically prefer one with a front fork clamp, carrying the front tire inside. Yakima makes a good product which fastens easily to the rails. I use the Copperhead model which, incidently, was supplied by IMBA during a promotion.
I will say nothing beats carrying the bike inside the wagon. My wife and I have had no problem doing this and finding plenty of space for gear along side the frames.
Hope this helps.
Don
And Patti, to answer your question, NO, the dealership here did NOT test drive the car with me. After the 2nd time of taking the car in for this problem, they kept the car for 2 days, gave me a loaner car, and then said they drove it for over 50 miles and could not find a problem with it. And that's bogus... because it still does it for me!!! Any person in their right mind could see that there is a problem with this car.
I would be thrilled to give you a call.. would you mind posting the number? or email me at BENinCHAS@aol.com...
Again, MANY thanks!
Ben
Steve
--'rocco
Look forward to helping you with this!
Patti
Again, many thanks!
Ben
I had an old 900 Saab and the BB at saabnet.com was great. I hope to keep up with this BB with our new Forester. So far though, the car runs great, with a ride and handling that is wonderful.
We are very pleased with our choice over the Honda CR-V.
Phil
Web site is still showing the old schemes.
Bob
Ross
I'm not very handy around cars - oil change, and plugs are about it - so any tips on 'Adventures in Plug Changes on a Flat Engine' are appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
-mike