You can get a set of snows for about $600. That's about 3% of the total cost of the Forester, so not bad.
I think the auto trannies are fine. There are more complaints about the clutch in the manuals. If you've had trouble with them in the past, just be sure to get the ATF flushed completely and refilled every 30k miles. It can cost less than $100 and buys you piece of mind.
Thanks for the reply on my rear diffy question. I just read your description on wheel bearing problems, could you elaborate abit about that?? Would someone who's car has bearing problems hear the gear whine all the time or it comes and goes? and how much vibration would be felt in the steering wheel? I am asking because I have been feeling vibration in my steering wheel and that weird noise I mentioned earlier. I am hoping its not the diffy, but then again I think I would have to pay out of pocket if its a bearing problem. since my 98 is definitly out of the 3/36K BTB warranty.
I did my homework (chains, tire brands), with lots of help from this board. I finally decided on the Michelin Artic Alpins on 15" wheels for my Forester S. I called every dealer within range for cheap steel wheels, no luck, then I believe it was juice who indicated they might be available at tirerack.com. They were! Total, mounted and balanced, including tax and shipping, came to $490.+ They should arrive any day now.
Re Snow tires: there are laws (in some states) that require you to put snow tires on all four?? Since my Toyota is only FWD, I only put snow tires on the front. Perhaps Pennsylvania is different. Either that or I've been doing something illegal, along with many others. With Subaru's AWD, I would definitely put snow tires on all four.
Mike: I would also look at the alignment, then wheel balance/rotation. Then CV joints and axle boots. Our 626 tore an axle boot and it whined kind of loudly. I have a photo if you want to check it out, look here.
Hey, $490 is a great deal for a full winter package. Way to go!
Let's say at least $50 per steel wheel, for $200 total, plus tires. I paid $107 above and beyond the tires and wheels for shipping, handling, lug nuts, and wheel locks.
My Plus One set was $643 delivered, but the wheels were on special for $75 apiece (alloy).
Yesterday the Check Engine light came on while I was driving my '01 Forester S, for no apparent reason. It was still on this morning, but when I started it up this afternoon, it had gone off again. I know that O2 sensors have been mentioned many times as a possible culprit. Does anyone have any more info on that cause? The car is going in to the dealer next week on an unrelated matter, so I'll mention it at that time, but I don't want the standard "customer states CEL came on; unable to duplicate at this time" answer from them.
By the way, I hadn't stopped for gas in about a week, and I always tighten the gas cap about 10 clicks, to avoid this problem. The light came on once before, when the car was new and I left it running while filling it up, but since that time I always shut it off while refueling to avoid this. The car now has nearly 11K miles.
Len- You don't have to worry about the service dept putting down "customer states CEL came on; unable to duplicate at this time". Even if the CEL only came on for a second, there should be an associated error code stored in the on-board computer. The service dept can pull that code and determine what the problem is/was. However, it doesn't sound like you have anything major to worry about.
Leo- It really depends on your needs and wants. The L is an excellent value and still comes with a long list of standard equipment. The L is a good choice for those on a limited budget. The larger wheels and tires along with 4-wheel disc brakes and a rear LSD give the S a performance edge. The S's cold weather package is also worthwhile if you live in a snowy climate. If you like moonroofs, the one on the S+ is huge and, combined with the side airbags, is a steal for only $1,000.
Because of OBD2 laws, the CEL light must come one even if there is a single engine misfire. It could be water condenstation in your gas. Try to keep your gas tank full with the cold weather. Lots of little things can trigger it. If it does not blink on and off, it's a minor problem. If it blinks, park it and call your dealer, they'll tow it in.
The dealer can look up the code and tell you what triggered the CEL. On our Mazda 626, it was a faulty O2 sensor, which we just had replaced.
Best value? Tough call. The L offer a well equipped basic model for under $20k, even with automatic. No doubt that is value.
The S, for enthusiasts, is worth the extra money, since you're getting 16" wheels, rear disc brakes, heated everything, CD changer, rear LSD, you name it.
But you could even argue that the cost of the premium package is dirt cheap. The moonroof is so huge it's worth $1200 easily, yet they charge you much less than that and toss in side air bags. Currently, I think this represents the best value, IMO.
Back in 1998 my price limit was $20k, but if I was buying today I would seriously consider busting that limit and getting the S+.
Shortly after we got our 01-L, the service shop replaced the O2 sensor and the shop forman complained loudly about how sensitive the sensor was. Recently, I filled up with gas and forgot to tighten the cap. I noticed that the cap was open when I got home and closed it then. The CEL light never came on. I am now wondering whether the shop disconected the light. Is there an easy way to see if the warning system is working correctly? I wouldn't want anything serious to go undetected.
I think it's a question of how much you want to spend, and which features you like. The value seems to increase each step up, if you crunch the numbers.
I originally planned on the L, but when I looked at the great features you get with the S, it seemed more than worth the small increase. Almost a year later, I'm glad I chose the S.
I did not want a sun/moonroof, so the S+ didn't make my list (personal preference, and I'm probably in the minority on this one).
Now if Subaru would just reissue the 1973 GL 1400 ....
In the 2002 Forester brochure there is a drawing of the "ring-shaped reinforcement frames." It looks like one of these reinforcement frames extends from the pillar between the front and rear doors across the top of the vehicle to the other pillar. It is obvious that the large moonroof would be in the middle of where this reinforcement frame would otherwise be. Does the moonroof compromise the structural integrity in any way? Thanks in advance for your views.
Quick question...our 2001 Forester S premium is coming due for its first oil change. I really hate having to take the car in for oil changes, but I am not the type to do it on my own either. So, I had this idea: how about taking some Mobil 1 synthetic oil with me and having the dealership use that oil--then I would just take the car in every 8000 miles or so for oil changes instead of every 3500. What do you guys think? Is this a good idea?
maverick1017 - I had a bad wheel bearing in a previous car (it was 30yrs old at the time, so no complaints!). The noise was definitely not a whine, but a low grumble or rumbling kind of noise that seemed to come from just about everywhere on the car, was very had to pinpoint.
It grew in volume over the months and miles, until it got so bothersome I decided it was time to take action. But always would be described as a rumble and not a whine.
Have a 2001 Forester S Premium--automatic transmission. I've noticed what I think is an octane rattle. Have been using Mobil regular (87 octane) since purchase. Anyone experience something similar? Anyone have better results using middle grade gas? This didn't seem to be an issue with the S Premium I owned with manual transmission. The service guys weren't much help when I asked about this.
Would like to replace the Yokohama Geolander H/Ts on a Forester S Premium with something with a better traction rating. The size is difficult to find. Suggestions?
for your responses! From what I read, bad bearings are definitly out of the question in my case. I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing. I am going to put winter tires on tomorrow or the weekend so I'll have the wheels balanced and alignment done when I do that. I'll probably change the diffy fluid tomorrow just to see if the noise goes away. Incidently, am I suppose to change the AT fluid filter everytime I change the fluids?? Where is it located under the car?? I might do that as well even though its only been a little more than 4000 miles since I changed it last.
Funny thing is, I haven't heard the noise all day today. Its was rather warm today ~60ish, I wonder if the noise is temperature related? It does go away and stay away after the car has been driven for about 15-20 minutes or so. The noise usually rears its ugly head in the morning.
Hmmm...this post is getting rather long, but this is the last question I have for everyone. Does anyone elses' engine chatter loudly when started for the first time after sitting overnight. It sounds like a cross between chatter and rattling. Goes away after the engine warms up, should I be worried?? I use 5w30 synthetic from Valvoline, could the oil be too thick and not coating the parts fast enough??
The check engine light can go on for over 100 reasons. Any disruption in the emissions system can cause the light. It will not necessarily go on right away if the fuel cap is not tight. The system goes through random checks, and the light would go on when it finds the problem. The codes are stored (post '95 models), so a dealer will be able to check what caused it, even if it went out.
sorry - I thought I had posted the information a while ago. Have your dealer call our tech. line group. The "repair" isn't a big one. In fact the bulletin is actually a reprint/reminder from a few years ago. I believe it relates to the shape of the pads against the rotors.
Last time I brought the Forester in and asked to check the brakes. At the end of the day when I picked it up they told me they couldn't duplicate the squeeling so they didn't go any further. Yet when my wife pulled away they squeeled and growled. Now I had asked them to 'check' the brakes (front and rear) meaning visually as well, to which they didn't attempt to do. How do I know? I marked 2 or 3 lug nuts on each wheel to the wheel and they were never disturbed. They must employ techs with X-ray vision to check out the rear brakes. And you want me to ask them to call the tech-line. Sorry, they may tell me it was busy.
Bob: I'm sure they have bracing around the moonroof. While it is huge, I've been in a few of them, including road trips, and they were shake-and-rattle free.
BJ: good idea, just make it 7500 miles so you meet Subaru's recommend schedule.
Katherine: can you elaborate? When do you hear it? What rpm? Does road speed or the gear you are in make a difference? Any other info about temperature, whether it's warmed up or not, etc. may help someone here diagnose it.
If you don't get much snow, my Nitto NT460 tires (sold at Discount Tire Direct, $57 each) come in your size and are very long lasting. They are not fit for snowy climates, but otherwise are a good tire. 14k on mine and they still look brand new. They are H-rated and carry a UTGQ of 460AA.
A little valve clatter is normal until you establish oil pressure (about 7 seconds). After that, I'd be worried.
I'm on the fence between a Forester and the Toyota Highlander. I either sacrifice $6000, good gas mileage and that coveted heated seat (Wisconsin winters)or I have to live with less room. I'm considering the small things now to flip me to one side and was wondering if the Forester easily accepts an auto start system. I really want one to let the car warm up in winter and am too impatient to wait in the car.
We installed them all the time when I sold Subies. I don't know if they are a problem with the Alpine keyless entry. I'd take the Forester over the Highlander in a heartbeat, but I'm an old cheapskate.
Highlander is a nice car but I'll address the Forester since it's a lot closer to home for me.
The compact size makes it nimble, maneuverable, easy to change directions. The cargo lift over is very low, and seats are the perfect height so you just slide in. It's very user-friendly. Controls are light and soft but the handling isn't.
I average over 25mpg, and it's peppy too. Reliability is good, payload and roof rack capacties are as much as you would need.
Heated seats, mmm, heated windshield, never scrape again. Heated mirrors keep clear even in the rain. The world's biggest moonroof (OK, paisan, 2nd biggest).
Big plus: Patti. SoA rep right here among the Crew. Great clubs and meets. Cult-like owners. Light off road events, beach driving, you name it.
The fact that I own one and have become very familiar with the Subie family here makes me much, much more likely to choose another Subaru next time. In fact, for that not to happen the car would have to be rather extraordinary (think Lancer Evo 7 for $20 grand).
The wife may need a new car soon, and we've been looking at Altima, Maxima, Odyssey, MPV, Sedona, lots of other cars. Can't get excited about them. I feel like we'd be missing out in some ways. We have not liked anything enough to buy it, so the old car was fixed and we'll keep using that.
She wants a sports sedan, so if the Blitzen (a twin turbo Legacy sold overseas) were sold here we'd own it today, no question.
And mark 11/29 on your calendar - the Subaru Chat that night will feature Mark Lovell, a top Subaru Rally Team USA racer. Watch for the promos next week. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Well, chalk one up for the local dealer, SUD'S in central Illinois.. Going in for our 4th oil change with our "sube", we experienced, shall we say embarrassing service. The week prior, I had SCHEDULED an oil change to be performed at 8:00 a.m. The service tech asked if we would be waiting for the car, I said yes, someone would be waiting. The appointment day arrives, the wife takes the car in. Again, service advisor asks if we will be waiting for the car, the wife says yes. Finally, at 10:00 a.m., the service advisor comes in and states that there has been a problem with the oil change on her car. The oil gun had "mulfunctioned", and pumped about 7-quarts to many into the engine and they had to start the process all over again. Luckily, they did not start the car. So, after re-draining the oil, refilling and taking for a test drive, it was finally after 11:30 a.m. before the wife unit left. Needless to say she was NOT in a good mood when I got home. She explained what happened to me and I proceeded to fire off a letter to the general manager of the dealership expressing our disappointment with our oil change service. I also noted to the manager that I wanted this incident documented on the cars history so that if problems exist later on, it would be covered. It has been almost one week and I have not heard back from the dealership. Is there a regional office that I might be able to get involved with our complaint?? Any information would be appreciated....thanks
Seems to me, besides the brake squeeling dilemmma, you have a Dealer Service providing SUB sub-par service. Find another Dealer Service who will tend to your annoyance instead of annoying you.
Thanks to all for your input on the Check Engine light. It's going in to Flemington Subaru next week to have something else checked out (1st dealer service; all maintenance has been DIY so far), so I'll be sure to have them check the computer codes to see what caused it. It's good to know that the cause can still be determined even after the light has gone out.
Leo- A Limited Slip Differential allows for power to be transferred side to side in addition to the front to rear action that AWD provides. The example most frequently used to exemplify the advantage of having a rear LSD is a vehicle stuck half off the road with no traction under one side. Both the front and back wheels would spin freely on one side and the vehicle would go nowhere. With a rear LSD, power would be transferred to the non-spinning rear wheel, which should provide enough traction to pull the vehicle back onto the road. Hope this helps.
I figured out that I can: either buy a new Forester L taking out the loan for four years OR buying a used 2yr Forester S taking the loan out for two years. (I'd prefer not going a 60 month loan). What would you chose?
Without any better information, I'd get the new Forester L simply because I just don't trust used cars.
Also, the 2 year old Forester S is of the older body style which may or may not affect resale value. Also you'd be getting a fresh warranty with the new L.
The rear LSD is a nice feature but the lack of one in my 98 Forester S (it became standard in 00) hasn't stopped me yet! :-)
Getting our brand new Black Diamond Pearl Forester S Premium either tomorrow or latest by next Tuesday (dealer is not sure about which shipment it is coming with). Waited about 5 weeks for it to come !! Feeling really excited.
Would like some advice here. This is our first brand new car -- any particular things to note while taking delivery of the car ? I was planning to take it for a spin and check the alignment first and then check the outside for scratches etc.
Also the dealership has given us some options on environmental paint protection, interior protection and rust proofing etc. They are not forcing it on us -- they simply gave us the prices and asked if we want any of the option. I was reading on this board about problems regarding the Forester paint chipping off early. Will this kind of an exterior protection help in that case -- it costs $359 (Both exterior and interior) and has a 7 year guarantee. I won't take the rust proofing because of Subaru's own unlimited/5yr warranty on that . But any ideas about the paint protection will be welcome. The protection package is from AutoArmor.
Btw, has anyone used the Subauru Mastercard ? -- I saw it on the net the other day -- sounds pretty cool -- $2000 could be earned towards Subaru accesories/car in 5 years.
When taking delivery of your vehicle, just make sure you take your time and go over it thoroughly. Check all the switches and controls. Check the exterior and interior for any blemishes/damage. Take a nice long test drive -- does it handle well? Listen for any strange noises. It's your right to check all these things out before taking delivery.
Decline any protection extras the dealer is trying to sell you -- it's not worth it. "Enviromental paint protection" just sounds like a fancy term for an expensive wax job. While there are some synthetic sealants that do last longer, you can get just the same protection from regular washing and waxing. Interior protection is just 3M Scotch Gaurd sprayed on the fabric -- you can do this yourself.
I am considering the '02 Forester S Premium package with leather. (My husband wants a minivan and I am NOT ready for that yet.) I found a dealer here in VA that will give me the car for $500 over invoice, but of course, they have added some stuff to it like better speakers, tweeters, auto dim rear-view mirror. Is that a good deal, $500 over invoice? It is coming to about $24,200 before taxes and tags.
I have heard Suburus are very expensive to service and that scares me. Is this true?
And lastly, I have read that air bags aren't deploying in the Forester, and that is a negative to me.
I really like the car. It drives nicely, but wish the back seat were a little larger. I don't drive more than 10,000 miles a year, but need a very safe, reliable family car.
Also, is the extended warranty worth the money? Any advice?
Maybe I need to become a mini-van mama and get an Odyssey, which I am not too excited about.
Mayme- I'd say $500 over invoice is a good price. Just make sure that you check here on Edmund's to verify that it really is invoice.
Re Suburus are very expensive to service: No truth what so ever. Well at least Subarus are no more expensive than any other make to get serviced. But of course it's not cheap to service any vehicle today; especially if you use a dealer's service dept.
Re problem with airbag deployment: I think any problem is merely a matter or false expectations. Front airbags are designed to deploy only in a severe head-on collision. Side airbags should only deploy during a full side-on impact. Side airbags should not deploy during a frontal impact and vice a versa. FYI: Front airbags only deploy in 5% of all accidents. Personally, I wouldn't want an airbag deploying at the slightest impact. Not only are they expensive to replace but can in themselves cause harm.
Re extended warranty: Personally I don't think they're worth the money but people buy them for the peace of mind. My recommendation is to wait until you're approaching the 3-year/36k mark and then decide. FYI: you can purchase the Subaru extended warranty at any time during the factory warranty period.
You can rest assured that the Forester is a very safe and reliable vehicle. Whether it's the right vehicle for you depends. A minivan will certainly carry a lot more people or cargo and yes the Forester's back seat isn't the roomiest. If you frequently transport more than two adults or several kids, then the minivan (or Subaru Outback) might be the better choice.
Hope this helps you decide and good luck with your decision.
Thanks for the info. It is helpful to talk to someone about the Forester other than the sales guy. I am going to stop by the dealer again today and poke around. One major incentive is they have 4.9 percent financing until the end of the month.
One more thing, do you know if the sunroof leaks or doesn't leak? I am always skeptical of getting one, but my hubby wants one, and we like the S model.
Comments
I think the auto trannies are fine. There are more complaints about the clutch in the manuals. If you've had trouble with them in the past, just be sure to get the ATF flushed completely and refilled every 30k miles. It can cost less than $100 and buys you piece of mind.
-juice
Thanks
Mike
I would think a vibration in the steering wheel is either from an unbalanced wheel or out-of-round tire.
Ken
They should arrive any day now.
Leo
Hey, $490 is a great deal for a full winter package. Way to go!
-juice
Leo
-juice
-Frank P.
My Plus One set was $643 delivered, but the wheels were on special for $75 apiece (alloy).
-juice
By the way, I hadn't stopped for gas in about a week, and I always tighten the gas cap about 10 clicks, to avoid this problem. The light came on once before, when the car was new and I left it running while filling it up, but since that time I always shut it off while refueling to avoid this. The car now has nearly 11K miles.
Thanks in advance for any info.
Len
Leo
Leo
-Frank P.
-Frank P.
The dealer can look up the code and tell you what triggered the CEL. On our Mazda 626, it was a faulty O2 sensor, which we just had replaced.
Best value? Tough call. The L offer a well equipped basic model for under $20k, even with automatic. No doubt that is value.
The S, for enthusiasts, is worth the extra money, since you're getting 16" wheels, rear disc brakes, heated everything, CD changer, rear LSD, you name it.
But you could even argue that the cost of the premium package is dirt cheap. The moonroof is so huge it's worth $1200 easily, yet they charge you much less than that and toss in side air bags. Currently, I think this represents the best value, IMO.
Back in 1998 my price limit was $20k, but if I was buying today I would seriously consider busting that limit and getting the S+.
-juice
Ray
I doubt they disconnected it. For startes, that's illegal.
-juice
I originally planned on the L, but when I looked at the great features you get with the S, it seemed more than worth the small increase. Almost a year later, I'm glad I chose the S.
I did not want a sun/moonroof, so the S+ didn't make my list (personal preference, and I'm probably in the minority on this one).
Now if Subaru would just reissue the 1973 GL 1400 ....
Thanks,
BJ
It grew in volume over the months and miles, until it got so bothersome I decided it was time to take action. But always would be described as a rumble and not a whine.
steve
Funny thing is, I haven't heard the noise all day today. Its was rather warm today ~60ish, I wonder if the noise is temperature related? It does go away and stay away after the car has been driven for about 15-20 minutes or so. The noise usually rears its ugly head in the morning.
Hmmm...this post is getting rather long, but this is the last question I have for everyone. Does anyone elses' engine chatter loudly when started for the first time after sitting overnight. It sounds like a cross between chatter and rattling. Goes away after the engine warms up, should I be worried?? I use 5w30 synthetic from Valvoline, could the oil be too thick and not coating the parts fast enough??
Thank you evenyone for your help!
Mike
Patti
Thanks!
Patti
Hope this helps.
Patti
BJ: good idea, just make it 7500 miles so you meet Subaru's recommend schedule.
Katherine: can you elaborate? When do you hear it? What rpm? Does road speed or the gear you are in make a difference? Any other info about temperature, whether it's warmed up or not, etc. may help someone here diagnose it.
If you don't get much snow, my Nitto NT460 tires (sold at Discount Tire Direct, $57 each) come in your size and are very long lasting. They are not fit for snowy climates, but otherwise are a good tire. 14k on mine and they still look brand new. They are H-rated and carry a UTGQ of 460AA.
A little valve clatter is normal until you establish oil pressure (about 7 seconds). After that, I'd be worried.
-juice
The compact size makes it nimble, maneuverable, easy to change directions. The cargo lift over is very low, and seats are the perfect height so you just slide in. It's very user-friendly. Controls are light and soft but the handling isn't.
I average over 25mpg, and it's peppy too. Reliability is good, payload and roof rack capacties are as much as you would need.
Heated seats, mmm, heated windshield, never scrape again. Heated mirrors keep clear even in the rain. The world's biggest moonroof (OK, paisan, 2nd biggest).
Big plus: Patti. SoA rep right here among the Crew. Great clubs and meets. Cult-like owners. Light off road events, beach driving, you name it.
The fact that I own one and have become very familiar with the Subie family here makes me much, much more likely to choose another Subaru next time. In fact, for that not to happen the car would have to be rather extraordinary (think Lancer Evo 7 for $20 grand).
The wife may need a new car soon, and we've been looking at Altima, Maxima, Odyssey, MPV, Sedona, lots of other cars. Can't get excited about them. I feel like we'd be missing out in some ways. We have not liked anything enough to buy it, so the old car was fixed and we'll keep using that.
She wants a sports sedan, so if the Blitzen (a twin turbo Legacy sold overseas) were sold here we'd own it today, no question.
-juice
-mike
-juice
And mark 11/29 on your calendar - the Subaru Chat that night will feature Mark Lovell, a top Subaru Rally Team USA racer. Watch for the promos next week.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Seems to me, besides the brake squeeling dilemmma, you have a Dealer Service providing SUB sub-par service. Find another Dealer Service who will tend to your annoyance instead of annoying you.
Good Luck :-)
-Dave
Len
Customer/Dealer Services
Subaru of America, Inc.
P. O. Box 6000
Cherry Hill, NJ 08034
Please note that I requested that you send it and that you have not received a response for the dealerships GM.
Thanks and I'm sorry about the problem.
Patti
Leo
-Frank P.
Leo
Without any better information, I'd get the new Forester L simply because I just don't trust used cars.
Also, the 2 year old Forester S is of the older body style which may or may not affect resale value. Also you'd be getting a fresh warranty with the new L.
The rear LSD is a nice feature but the lack of one in my 98 Forester S (it became standard in 00) hasn't stopped me yet! :-)
Ken
Would like some advice here. This is our first brand new car -- any particular things to note while taking delivery of the car ? I was planning to take it for a spin and check the alignment first and then check the outside for scratches etc.
Also the dealership has given us some options on environmental paint protection, interior protection and rust proofing etc. They are not forcing it on us -- they simply gave us the prices and asked if we want any of the option. I was reading on this board about problems regarding the Forester paint chipping off early. Will this kind of an exterior protection help in that case -- it costs $359 (Both exterior and interior) and has a 7 year guarantee. I won't take the rust proofing because of Subaru's own unlimited/5yr warranty on that . But any ideas about the paint protection will be welcome. The protection package is from AutoArmor.
Btw, has anyone used the Subauru Mastercard ? -- I saw it on the net the other day -- sounds pretty cool -- $2000 could be earned towards Subaru accesories/car in 5 years.
When taking delivery of your vehicle, just make sure you take your time and go over it thoroughly. Check all the switches and controls. Check the exterior and interior for any blemishes/damage. Take a nice long test drive -- does it handle well? Listen for any strange noises. It's your right to check all these things out before taking delivery.
Decline any protection extras the dealer is trying to sell you -- it's not worth it. "Enviromental paint protection" just sounds like a fancy term for an expensive wax job. While there are some synthetic sealants that do last longer, you can get just the same protection from regular washing and waxing. Interior protection is just 3M Scotch Gaurd sprayed on the fabric -- you can do this yourself.
Ken
I have heard Suburus are very expensive to service and that scares me. Is this true?
And lastly, I have read that air bags aren't deploying in the Forester, and that is a negative to me.
I really like the car. It drives nicely, but wish the back seat were a little larger. I don't drive more than 10,000 miles a year, but need a very safe, reliable family car.
Also, is the extended warranty worth the money? Any advice?
Maybe I need to become a mini-van mama and get an Odyssey, which I am not too excited about.
Thanks.
Mayme Grim
Re Suburus are very expensive to service: No truth what so ever. Well at least Subarus are no more expensive than any other make to get serviced. But of course it's not cheap to service any vehicle today; especially if you use a dealer's service dept.
Re problem with airbag deployment: I think any problem is merely a matter or false expectations. Front airbags are designed to deploy only in a severe head-on collision. Side airbags should only deploy during a full side-on impact. Side airbags should not deploy during a frontal impact and vice a versa. FYI: Front airbags only deploy in 5% of all accidents. Personally, I wouldn't want an airbag deploying at the slightest impact. Not only are they expensive to replace but can in themselves cause harm.
Re extended warranty: Personally I don't think they're worth the money but people buy them for the peace of mind. My recommendation is to wait until you're approaching the 3-year/36k mark and then decide. FYI: you can purchase the Subaru extended warranty at any time during the factory warranty period.
You can rest assured that the Forester is a very safe and reliable vehicle. Whether it's the right vehicle for you depends. A minivan will certainly carry a lot more people or cargo and yes the Forester's back seat isn't the roomiest. If you frequently transport more than two adults or several kids, then the minivan (or Subaru Outback) might be the better choice.
Hope this helps you decide and good luck with your decision.
-Frank P.
Thanks for the info. It is helpful to talk to someone about the Forester other than the sales guy. I am going to stop by the dealer again today and poke around. One major incentive is they have 4.9 percent financing until the end of the month.
One more thing, do you know if the sunroof leaks or doesn't leak? I am always skeptical of getting one, but my hubby wants one, and we like the S model.
Thanks.
Mayme