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Comments
the starter solenoid, the solenoid starter contactor or the starter brushes
themselves.
I had similar situation on a '69 Camaro, which had the same starter motor/solenoid configuration as you're describing. The solenoid would pull in, but the starter would not spin. I found out the copper disc that is the contact for applying the +12V to the starter motor was pitted and oxidized, and sometimes it would complete the circuit, and other times it wouldn't. Taking apart the solenoid and cleaning up the copper disc solved the problem. This disc is part of the solenoid itself, in the back of the solenoid where plunger can be seen.
thanks!!
flywheel. This is a centrifugal mechanical design where the starter spinning
and the solenoid pulling in fully allows the starter gear (bendix drive) to
engage with the engine flywheel.
Most likely a solenoid problem, where the solenoid engages the starter contactor
to allow the starter to spin, but is sticking on the starter drive and which is
not engaging with the gear teeth on the flywheel.
this problem just started yesterday as far as starter cranking, even w/o key in ign.
with starter being powered, I assume there is a short but not sure where to look. I will try and inspect cables, but I assume POS cable is the one I should be concerned with. I did try and visually inspect for any corroded or open spots but didnt find any. Have owned truck since new so I know nothing has been done but cable end changes and battery replacement.
I also changed relays in box to see if that helped, no change.
the starter under load.
Have you pulled off the caps to see if it has any water in it?
see if it can still deliver the cold cranking amp rating,
but if the battery is 7 yrs old..it's getting tired.
The lead acid chemistry in automotive batteries will basically work reliably for 5-6 yrs, and maybe up to 8 yrs max for some batteries.
If you buy the deluxe batteries from some stores, they offer a pro-rated warranty with these.
Free replacement if the battery fails within (2yrs?) and prorated after
that, so if the battery lasts 7 yrs, you only get 10% or so of the purchase
price under any warranty in effect. They are not losing anything with these
warranties, basically it's a discount on a new battery.
Water getting into the engine compartment, would just get the sparkplug
wires wet...it may not start, but that wouldn't stop it from cranking anyway.
There could be many things causing that symptom but here are the most common.
1. needs a tuneup, new plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor
2. idle air control valve (IAC) /throttle body butterfly valves dirty.
This is responsible for maintaining steady idle rpm.
3. IAT (incoming air temp) sensor not providing correct reading until
the truck warms up a bit
4. Vacumn leak somewhere near the intake manifold
your question here on a Ford vehicle.
O/D light being illuminated while driving, could be some kind of electrical problem or a transmission symptom, but it's hard to give any kind of knowledgeable answer, without knowing details about the O/D
unit and what turns on the O/D light..without a wiring diagram for it.
the TPS sensor correctly? There are two ways it can go on, but only one
is the correctly way.
I don't have enough info to provide any real diagnosis..
but sensors that affect idle are:
1. TPS sensor
2. IAC (idle air control valve)
3. IAT (incoming air temperature sensor)
4. ECT (engine coolant temperature)
The PCM adjusts the idle speed based on input from these sensors.
The IAC is the device that sets the idle air at closed throttle.
What kind of engine? Was it starting easily before the plugs were changed?
"Just clicks"..sounds like more of a battery/starter solenoid problem.
How old is the battery?
These have the individual ignition coils for each spark plug, I believe.
Were the plugs changed one at a time or removed and replaced all at once?
Is there a chance that one (two) of the spark plug wires got crossed somehow?
cause a no crank problem and I assume from your description that the
engine does not crank at all.
The click you hear could be the engine starter motor relay in the PDC..
the big black box with fuses and relays in the engine area next to the battery on the drivers side fender.
This relay's coil is supplied from the ignition switch fed by a 40 amp fuse
in the PDC. The ground side of the coil goes through the park/neutral
switch located on the automatic transmission to ground.
The contact side of the starter motor relay is supplied by a 40 amp
fuse in the PDC , (+12V)which goes to engine starter solenoid.
If the clicking is the starter relay, then the circuit to the starter solenoid
is not completed and could be the in the starter relay contacts OR
the solenoid itself (part of the starter motor).
If the actual solenoid on the starter is clicking and the starter is not
at least making a grunting sound as if to turn the engine..then..
1. Battery not supplying enough current/voltage during cranking.
battery either discharged or not holding a charge.
1. Trickle charge battery for 12-24 hrs at 2-5amp rate
2. Place a digital voltmeter across battery before attempting to start.
If battery reads 12.6 volts no load, try to start...if it still clicks
measure battery voltage while starter relay or starter solenoid is
clicking..
If battery voltage drops down to 9volts or less...Battery has a bad cell,
unable to supply rated starting current..jumper battery to see if
engine will start..if it starts with battery jumpered..Replace battery.
2. The other possibilty is that the solenoid battery contactor (inside starter)
is bad. If that is the case, the starter will not get battery voltage and
all you will hear is the starter solenoid clicking to make contact.
3. And the other possibilty is that the starter motor itself has failed..but
before replacing that, MAKE sure it's not the battery, starter motor
relay or the fusing to the starter motor relay.
28 Year Master, L-1 Technician
a defect in manufacture that shows up when relatively new..or towards
the end of its chemistry lifetime where it simply cannot hold a charge or
provide the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps)required by the starter circuit and of
course the PCM.
Timing chain
Plugs
Wires
Cap
Rotor
IAC
TPS
The IAC and TPS I just recently replaced hoping it would help fix the problem, but it hasn't. Please give me ANY idea of what it could be I'm stumped. If more info is needed please let me know.
Any ideas?
I have no high idle start and my check engine light is not on
It does start but takes a bit to start when it is cold once it warms up it will start right up
any ideas please help!!!!!!!
The 3-on's with the ignition key do not show any trouble codes - I'm not sure if this is correct for a '97? I have not had it scanned for codes.
Running at speed the dash voltage gauge indicates ~15 volts, at idle I measured 14 volts at the battery.
Does a '97 have the infamous Splice #115? Any ideas?
I have a 92 haveing prolubm witht it when it is cold it will start when it warms up it won't