My # is between 400 and 500 thousand - dates back to the late '70's. My buddy has one around 150,000 and never lets me forget it :-). I knew I was spending too much in there when I memorized my number.
Too bad there's no REI Forester - prolly more Subaru's in Seattle than all of Maine. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
You said you had upgraded your rear sway bar. What size you have upgraded to? How much it costed you?
I have a '00 Forester S. I am annoyed with the slight body roll also. I was thinking upgrade the rear sway bar and maybe adding front and rear tower strut.
To others living in SF Bay area. Any shops you have experience with upgrading the sway bars? Thanks.
Hey everyone, forgive me if this was answered somewhere in this thread and I missed it. I am a second time Subaru owner, had a '91 Loyale several years ago but had to ditch it due to electrical problems (would sometimes just not start, you would turn the key and everything would dim, wouldn't start, etc.).
Well just 2 weeks ago I traded in my Kia, don't ask , for a new 2002 Subaru Forester S 5-spd loaded. I know the 2003's are on their way out, for those of you who missed it there is a review on Edmunds for the 2003. Personally I didn't see any real reason for me to wait for the '03, except I wouldn't have minded the hill-holder clutch. I cared more about getting a good price than I did about a re-styled body, besides that I don't believe there is *that* much of a difference between the two.
Back to the original problem, it has now been two weeks and I have to bring the Subaru to the dealership because it is having problems starting. As it is a manual tranny you have to push the clutch ALL the way to the floor before it will start (and I do mean ALL the way). Sometimes it starts fine, other times it doesn't, about a 50/50 mix. While cranking, it will just stop cranking and go dead.. there is kind of an electronic "blip" like something is electronically stopping the car from starting. OK fine, I would be happy to chalk that up to the clutch sensor needing adjustment... but more than once, after I wait about 10 seconds and turn the key again, it will start but it hangs and almost doesn't start right as the engine starts to take hold and starts running... you know, the same thing that happens to old beat up Buick's or something, you hear them "start" to start and you have to keep cranking for a couple of extra seconds before it finally just starts running... I'm not quite sure how to put it better than that.. In any case, that worries me.. especially since I forked over a large sum of money for this vehicle. It has almost left me stranded a couple of times. My fear is since it doesn't happen every time I will take it to the dealership and they'll fire it up once or twice (and of course it will work), and they'll say No Problem Found.. I know all of you have been there before. Any ideas as to what this could be?? I'm guessing it's the starter motor or the clutch sensor but I'm no mechanic
In addition to that, when I crank the engine, the entire car shimmies from side to side... the Loyale didn't do that, maybe it's because the 2.5 litre is that much more powerful..??
I upgraded from the stock 13mm to the 18mm rear bar. I purchased mine from a Subaru dealer through the mail for around $85 or so. Unfortuantely, they're out of business now, but you can find it from any dealer. Here's one independent shop I found on the internet that sells them:
You can use any rear sway bar designed for the 98-01 Impreza RS. There are fatter ones out there, but 18mm seems to be a good balance for the Forester. It really firms up the rear without overdoing it.
Another question. Now I know my rear sway bar is 13mm. What about my front sway bar, is it 19mm? I am very careful on minimizing my turns. With that, will you prefer a 18mm or a 20mm, assuming the front is 19mm and not changed. As it turned neutral steering, does it means safer for me to put in the strut tower bars for lateral chassis movements?
Welcome! I'm not sure that the vehicles in Asia have a similar set-up to U. S. spec. vehicles on triggers for the "check engine" light. As long as it is not flashing here in the U. S., it is not indicative of a major problem. If it is flashing, I'd suggest getting it checked right away.
Your english is great! I look forward to more post from you.
Sorry about the brake noise. Please ask your dealer to call the tech. line. There was a way to address the issue back in '98 with the Impreza. The same fix can be used for your Forester. It's not a big deal repair. In a non-technical way of an explanation, it is a filing of the brake pad to change the harmonics.
I agree - call us at 1-800-SUBARU3. A Representative can take a look at it and see what we can do to help. Intermittant conditions are very frustrating, but we can give it a try. Thanks and thanks for the bike rack information!
1st off - Welcome! I'm glad you purchased a Subaru.
2nd - sorry for the problem. I'd strongly suggest that you call us to start a case. Please ask the Representative to review the file with me. On a side note, I had that problem (with the clutch pedal) once before. I hadn't noticed that my floor mat was pushed up near the pedal and was interfering. I doubt that is causing your problem but I thought it was worth sharing.
Once we get involved, I promise we will do our best to address the situation quickly. I'm not in the office today (jury duty), but I'll check for your case tomorrow.
Hi, I just got a 2002 Forester L with the Bridgestone Dueler tires. Living in Upstate NY I would like to know what to expect from these tires. Especially in snow. If these tires are going to be a problem is it possible to trade them in for something else before I put very many miles on the vehicle. What might be better in the stock 205X70-15 range. I have not had any experience with Bridgestone and am in need of someone's experience. Thanks for any help you may be able to provide. Gene
Indeed, I did not notice that the gas cap might be the problem. The last time the gas was filled by my wife, not me. I have checked it (clicked for several times) and let's see what will happen. If the light won't go off, the dealer said probably I would like to go back to have the electrical signals "reset" by using computers or something.
The forester Asia version seems exactly the same as the US ones in spec. I just wonder why it is not like other cars that the gas door can be locked. I can open the gas door whenever I want. It's weird and makes me feel uneasy.
Chuanfang makes a good point. Why is it that the Forester (or is it all Subarus?) doesn't have an inside fuel door release? And did they change that with the new 03 model?
at least for MY99. Had not driven the OBS in a while, and just the other day at the gas station I instinctively reach down for the fuel door release... "hey?! what happen? spent about 15 sec. looking before I released I'm not in the OB
Haven't posted here in a while but work and personal issues have taken immediate precedent. I do try to read the boards regularly, though.
I second Chuanfang and Frank P. I always feel a little uneasy about not being able to restrict access to my Forester's fuel filler - especially when I go into urban areas or, for that matter, suburban and rural areas where there may be bored, mailicious teenagers.
What I'd like to know is whether a commercially available locking gas cap would trigger the notorious CEL. Does anyone have any experience with this?
There's something else that will trigger the CEL, as I found out early on with my '01 Forester S. If you refuel with the engine running, it can cause the light to go on. (It will reset itself after the next fillup.) Needless to say, I no longer make that particular mistake.
Ed,
I seem to recall someone on these boards having posted some good results (ie: no CEL) with an aftermarket locking gas cap, but that was about a year ago.
Sean: ask the dealer to check the motor mounts. Some vibes are normal, but a boxer has perfect second order balance and should not do the boogie like that.
Gene: I thought the Duelers were pretty good in snow. I swapped to a more quiet passenger car tire, and they are not nearly as good. They lasted 28k miles for me. I did not think they were good in rain, nor did they handle in the dry very well. But in snow, for me, they were fine.
I'm not sure about the front sway bar size. However, many people don't upgrade it because it's both difficult to access and doesn't make as big a difference compared to the rear sway bar upgrade. You also need to consider the relative stiffness between the front and rear bars. If you stiffen both the rear and front by the same amount, you probably will not get the same benefit as doing just the rear.
I'd recommend going with 18mm. You certainly can go stiffer, but keep in mind what sway bars do -- they connect the two wheels on an axle. The stiffer the bar, the less independent your suspension becomes. If you do a lot of offroading, you don't want fat sway bars. In fact, hard core off-roaders often remove their sway bar to maximize wheel travel. Also, fatter sway bars will make it easier for you to spin out in slippery road conditions.
If you want, you can try one of those adjustable rear sway bars (ie. Whiteline) that allow you to change the effective stiffness by altering the sway bar mounting points. I believe they offer 3 settings: 19,20,21mm. You get the benefit of experimenting with three settings with just one bar.
Strut tower bars are an expensive way to reduce body flex and improve chassis responsiveness. Again, you'll get more bang for the buck by installing a rear strut tower bar since the front is relatively stiff due to the chassis layout.
Yesterday, I took my '02 Forester in for it's 15 K Service and did not have a very positive experience with their "advisor" at the desk.
It was like he was getting a commission on anything they would do. It started with me declining the "Recommended list for the 15,000 mile service"
When he read my odometer, he went back behind the desk and "presented" me with a clipboard of the list for this service.
I asked him, "If this was the Dealers list or Manufacturers list" He said it was the recommended list. Sure that this was the dealers inflated list, I then presented him with a list I had studiously copied from the "Warranty & Maintenance Booklet". His reaction to this was "If it was a snake and was going to bite him."
His reply was that he and Subaru would not stand behind the car if it developed problems due to his list not being followed. My reply back was, that if the manufacturer had required that these extra things be done they would have added it to their list, yeesh.
Again, he tried to have me sign off on 250 bucks worth of "service" with an air of superiority and arrogance.
Again we went back and forth, by this time I had enough.
This time I asked him if he was trying to start a fight with me over what service I wanted performed on my car?
Again I firmly stated that I only wanted what was on the list, which is what the Manufacturer recommends performed on my car!
He shut up after that and began entering and adding on his computer and came up with an unitemized bill for an estimate of $179. I was sure he only said $79 when he said it, but there on the sheet it said $179. it came out to a bit more than this with some unitemized "misc. charges."
My question to you all is this - Is this a fair amount for the 15,000 Mile Service.
Thanks for letting me voice what in my gut tells me I still got took.
To all who live or will travel through Minnesota - avoid Morries Subaru - Brooklyn Park (a suburb of Minneapolis) for service, with both hands clutched onto your wallet.
As far as buying a car from - we had a great experience with their Fleet person (Mike Zickermann).
Hmm, 15k service? Isn't that just an oil change and a tire rotation? Maybe top off the fluids, a couple of visual inspections, that's about it. $179 seems pretty high.
the service writers make the car salesmen look like sunday school teachers! These writers are actually the bread and butter of a dealer's operation. With that said, if you go in and the 15K service is $250 and you request them do only what is in the book, they'll likely itemize it to come out to about $200 so they get their money either way.
Most employees at Auto dealerships are on either commision or bonus incentive pay plans and small salaries. This includes Service Writers, Service Managers, Parts counter people, Parts Managers along with the sales force. The commision and/or bonus is generally figured on Gross profit for service writers and Parts counter people and Net profit for Parts and Service Management and is the major portion of the compensation received.
The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what we think your service should cover and what you should pay. Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I hear your anger and it pisses me off too that the service advisor pulled that on you. Unfortuantely, I think $179 is high for even if you went above and beyond what Subaru recommends in the owner's manual. At 15K it's usually just an oil change, tire rotation and inspect everything else.
You still can have the last laugh. If you think you were not treated well, log a complaint at Subaru customer support: 1-800-SUBARU3.
Thanks Tincup, Juice, Mike and Steve and anyone else that has good info to share that I haven't seen/read yet.
Thank you all for letting me get that off my chest - I feel so much better today you would not believe it. You are all a wonderful.
By the way, I checked the site Steve recommended - it should have only cost me $112.00. Anyone know who it would matter to at SOA what this dealership is doing? Or should I just count the money I saved, by not going with the dealer recommended.
Now can I ask a second question. How do I avoid being ripped off at 30,000?
Thanks for the warning. I hope to buy a Forester in a few months, and Morrie's was one of three dealerships I've been considering. If you're ever there again, tell them your experience might have cost them a sale to me.
I've been rushing up to anyone I see getting out of a Forester or OB in parking lots to ask about good service. I hear good about Metropolitan Subaru and White Bear Lake.
Dealers often don't make much $ on new car sales, so service picks up the slack.
Still, I'd get a price quote from Edmunds' wonderful tool, then call around and ask who can match it. Let them know you'll go to the dealer with the lowest quote, or the first to match Edmunds' price.
fwiw, I sprung for about $150 worth of "extras" at my last 60k service, including an alignment, rotation and a rear brake squeal. Rotated my tires yesterday and discovered a stripped nut and probably a bad stud. The dealer has promised to fix it free, 7,500 miles later.
Guess they can afford to, eh? Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I love my Forester. My neighbor across the street loves his and a good friend a few blocks away loves his - It is a great vehicle.
Since you said you were looking to buy - let me give you some unsolicited information about some twin city dealers we found.
We found the White bear salesmen that approached us on the lot to be "overbearing." The Internet salesman seems to be quite genuine. A complete difference.
The Richfield dealership was impossible to get into because of the freeway/road system - we gave up after circling completely twice. Our good friends did buy there and had a good experience they say.
We bought ours through a car buying service at Hiway Credit Union (www.hiway.org). You do not need to be a member of the credit union to use this service. It seems they rent space or something.
We told the person what year, model, color, etc. and they called around and found us a price very much in line with Edmunds price. Then I went to Morries in Brooklyn Park and finalized the deal with Mike Zimermann in what seemed like less than half an hour. Put 160 on the odometer that afternoon!
*I am a member of this credit union, but I believe the two are separate. I have no other connection with this than that.
Brian: I like the Richfield operation based on their internet site. The guy seems genuinely enthusiastic about Subies. I met one gal who liked her contacts with them. Five people have told me they liked the White Bear Lake dealership. Thanks for taking the time to pass on the tips. I'm in St Paul too, Mac-Groveland. Around here I'm rarely out of sight of a Subie.
In the SF bay area, I got two quotes for a 30K service ... one in the valley for $695 (I believe, I was so shocked I don't remember the exact amount), and one for hundreds less at a dealer in Santa Cruz. As far as I can tell the services were the same (as per recommended). Can you guess which one I went with?
It's been a great car ... I've owned it for 22 months now and with 33.5K only had very minor problems.
I can fit two RC planes (or a greasy bike) in the back, and not worry about the fuel stains on the carpeting ... what more can you ask for :-)
How did you like Santa Cruz Subaru? I've been going to them after becoming tired with the poor service of some of the central Bay Area dealers. It's worth the trip over the "hill".
So I'm up in Banff Canada this week on vacation.... having a great time.......check my cell messages and I got a call from my local Southern Cal. Subaru dealer. He told me that 2 '03 foresters just got into the port and they'll have them by Thursday or Friday. I'm back next Monday so I'm planning a test drive it.... can't wait.
I'm looking to buy a Forester. I notice that one of the differences between the L and the S model is that the S has a limited slip center and rear diff.. How much difference does this feature make in the snow?
My '99 Forester "S" does not have the LSD. I have had no trouble getting around in snow up to 15" deep. True winter tires make the biggest difference for an AWD vehicle, I feel. However, if you drive frequently in deep, unplowed snow the LSD would be a good idea because it would give an extra chance to get grip where the car could tend to float or hang up on packed snow.
The "S" offers more important advantages for wintry climates: heated mirrors & wiper defroster. These make a big difference in visibility & peace of mind in icy snowy weather. That's why I bought the "S" and am glad I did.
I have a 5 speed, and don't regret it for a second. I find them more fun, a little more efficient (real-world mileage), and just a tad peppier. The AWD is 50/50 so it feels a little less like FWD. Plus, they cost less, and you can jump start them if your battery ever dies.
But autos have advantages, too. They're better for towing, and off road it's easier to control the throttle. They're easier to resall later, and easier for bumper to bumper commutes.
I find the Forester is very "user friendly" in many ways, and even the clutch pedal isn't stiff.
You can get an L model for about $19k with a 5 speed, under $20k for an auto. Or all the way up to $23k or so for an S Premium automatic with leather, which has that gargantuan moonroof.
Put it this way - I have a 1998, and the 2003 is on our shopping list for a 2nd car. That says it all.
I thought they were very good, cheaper and more friendly than the some of the bay area dealers. Plus they rented me a car (another Forester) for $19.95 and I was able to still get to work by 9:00
The rear LSD would help in some corner cases where once side of your Forester is stuck in snow. The LSD actually came in handy with my friend's MY00 Forester S. We were driving around in the snow and slid into a drainage ditch that was covered with snow. Most of the weight of the vehicle was on the side in the ditch. Both side were covered with snow. The rear LSD allowed the rear right wheel to push the Forester out. Had we been on my 98 Forester S, I would have had to ask for a tow!
As for the 5-speed, I think it's a better combination with all four-cylinder engines. The 2.5L boxer in our Foresters is quite torquey, but the 5-speed allows you to take full advantage of it.
Being from Montreal I'm no stranger to snow, bad weather, poor snow clearing and pot-hole littered streets, but I opted not to step up for the S. I've test drove the 2001 S with LSD in an unplowed lot with about 20cm of snow on the ground and it didn't really do anything for me. The only time LSD was demontrated to me was from a dead stop, hitting the gas and feeling the power in the wheels transferring to the slipping wheel. Aside from the 'hey cool' response this would not affect in any way my driving. Besides what Northerner or Canadian hits the gas hard to get out of snow, stuck or not? Hello, spinning wheels get you nowhere. I neither felt it would help or hinder my ride. Maybe if this were the first time driving under snow conditions this would help, but if you've learned and lived with winter driving you can do without. Even when I was in the process of buying my '02L I asked the salesman about having or not-having LSD. He said he hasn't lost a sale because one had LSD and the other not. We choose the L because it satisfied our needs. We felt we didn't really need the bells and whistles and PRICE of the S, besides we hated the colour of the titanium trim of the '02S. Basically LSD is a neat little option but it, by itself, should not determine which level to get.
p.s. If I remember correctly the LSD demonstration required the driver to hit the gas in order for the LSD to kick in when slipping or control was being lost, totally going against the instinct of taking the foot off the gas and a quick tap on the brakes. Can someone confirm this for me?
Comments
Although the hand cranked blenders look interesting....
Steve
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Ken
Too bad there's no REI Forester - prolly more Subaru's in Seattle than all of Maine.
Steve
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What size you have upgraded to? How much it costed you?
I have a '00 Forester S.
I am annoyed with the slight body roll also.
I was thinking upgrade the rear sway bar and maybe adding front and rear tower strut.
To others living in SF Bay area. Any shops you have experience with upgrading the sway bars?
Thanks.
-Kin.
Well just 2 weeks ago I traded in my Kia, don't ask
Back to the original problem, it has now been two weeks and I have to bring the Subaru to the dealership because it is having problems starting. As it is a manual tranny you have to push the clutch ALL the way to the floor before it will start (and I do mean ALL the way). Sometimes it starts fine, other times it doesn't, about a 50/50 mix. While cranking, it will just stop cranking and go dead.. there is kind of an electronic "blip" like something is electronically stopping the car from starting. OK fine, I would be happy to chalk that up to the clutch sensor needing adjustment... but more than once, after I wait about 10 seconds and turn the key again, it will start but it hangs and almost doesn't start right as the engine starts to take hold and starts running... you know, the same thing that happens to old beat up Buick's or something, you hear them "start" to start and you have to keep cranking for a couple of extra seconds before it finally just starts running... I'm not quite sure how to put it better than that.. In any case, that worries me.. especially since I forked over a large sum of money for this vehicle. It has almost left me stranded a couple of times. My fear is since it doesn't happen every time I will take it to the dealership and they'll fire it up once or twice (and of course it will work), and they'll say No Problem Found.. I know all of you have been there before. Any ideas as to what this could be?? I'm guessing it's the starter motor or the clutch sensor but I'm no mechanic
In addition to that, when I crank the engine, the entire car shimmies from side to side... the Loyale didn't do that, maybe it's because the 2.5 litre is that much more powerful..??
tidester
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I upgraded from the stock 13mm to the 18mm rear bar. I purchased mine from a Subaru dealer through the mail for around $85 or so. Unfortuantely, they're out of business now, but you can find it from any dealer. Here's one independent shop I found on the internet that sells them:
http://home.att.net/~teaguesauto/parts1.htm
You can use any rear sway bar designed for the 98-01 Impreza RS. There are fatter ones out there, but 18mm seems to be a good balance for the Forester. It really firms up the rear without overdoing it.
Here's some good reading on sway bars:
http://www.spdusa.com/newpage4.htm
Also, here are some installation steps. It's super easy.
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?s=098397e96d0667165d8ef77dd83a3ebe&threadid=34
Ken
Another question. Now I know my rear sway bar is 13mm. What about my front sway bar, is it 19mm?
I am very careful on minimizing my turns.
With that, will you prefer a 18mm or a 20mm, assuming the front is 19mm and not changed.
As it turned neutral steering, does it means safer for me to put in the strut tower bars for lateral chassis movements?
-Kin.
Your english is great! I look forward to more post from you.
Patti
Thanks!
Patti
Thanks and thanks for the bike rack information!
Patti
2nd - sorry for the problem. I'd strongly suggest that you call us to start a case. Please ask the Representative to review the file with me. On a side note, I had that problem (with the clutch pedal) once before. I hadn't noticed that my floor mat was pushed up near the pedal and was interfering. I doubt that is causing your problem but I thought it was worth sharing.
Once we get involved, I promise we will do our best to address the situation quickly. I'm not in the office today (jury duty), but I'll check for your case tomorrow.
Thanks!
Patti
What might be better in the stock 205X70-15 range.
I have not had any experience with Bridgestone and am in need of someone's experience.
Thanks for any help you may be able to provide.
Gene
Indeed, I did not notice that the gas cap might be the problem. The last time the gas was filled by my wife, not me. I have checked it (clicked for several times) and let's see what will happen. If the light won't go off, the dealer said probably I would like to go back to have the electrical signals "reset" by using computers or something.
The forester Asia version seems exactly the same as the US ones in spec. I just wonder why it is not like other cars that the gas door can be locked. I can open the gas door whenever I want. It's weird and makes me feel uneasy.
Thanks for all your support.
best wishes
Chuanfang
-Frank P.
-mike
-Dave
Haven't posted here in a while but work and personal issues have taken immediate precedent. I do try to read the boards regularly, though.
I second Chuanfang and Frank P. I always feel a little uneasy about not being able to restrict access to my Forester's fuel filler - especially when I go into urban areas or, for that matter, suburban and rural areas where there may be bored, mailicious teenagers.
What I'd like to know is whether a commercially available locking gas cap would trigger the notorious CEL. Does anyone have any experience with this?
Ed
There's something else that will trigger the CEL, as I found out early on with my '01 Forester S. If you refuel with the engine running, it can cause the light to go on. (It will reset itself after the next fillup.) Needless to say, I no longer make that particular mistake.
Ed,
I seem to recall someone on these boards having posted some good results (ie: no CEL) with an aftermarket locking gas cap, but that was about a year ago.
Len
Gene: I thought the Duelers were pretty good in snow. I swapped to a more quiet passenger car tire, and they are not nearly as good. They lasted 28k miles for me. I did not think they were good in rain, nor did they handle in the dry very well. But in snow, for me, they were fine.
-juice
I'm not sure about the front sway bar size. However, many people don't upgrade it because it's both difficult to access and doesn't make as big a difference compared to the rear sway bar upgrade. You also need to consider the relative stiffness between the front and rear bars. If you stiffen both the rear and front by the same amount, you probably will not get the same benefit as doing just the rear.
I'd recommend going with 18mm. You certainly can go stiffer, but keep in mind what sway bars do -- they connect the two wheels on an axle. The stiffer the bar, the less independent your suspension becomes. If you do a lot of offroading, you don't want fat sway bars. In fact, hard core off-roaders often remove their sway bar to maximize wheel travel. Also, fatter sway bars will make it easier for you to spin out in slippery road conditions.
If you want, you can try one of those adjustable rear sway bars (ie. Whiteline) that allow you to change the effective stiffness by altering the sway bar mounting points. I believe they offer 3 settings: 19,20,21mm. You get the benefit of experimenting with three settings with just one bar.
Strut tower bars are an expensive way to reduce body flex and improve chassis responsiveness. Again, you'll get more bang for the buck by installing a rear strut tower bar since the front is relatively stiff due to the chassis layout.
Ken
Also, if a person really wanted to get to your tank, I don't think an internal release would provide much protection.
Ken
It was like he was getting a commission on anything they would do. It started with me declining the "Recommended list for the 15,000 mile service"
When he read my odometer, he went back behind the desk and "presented" me with a clipboard of the list for this service.
I asked him, "If this was the Dealers list or Manufacturers list" He said it was the recommended list. Sure that this was the dealers inflated list, I then presented him with a list I had studiously copied from the "Warranty & Maintenance Booklet". His reaction to this was "If it was a snake and was going to bite him."
His reply was that he and Subaru would not stand behind the car if it developed problems due to his list not being followed. My reply back was, that if the manufacturer had required that these extra things be done they would have added it to their list, yeesh.
Again, he tried to have me sign off on 250 bucks worth of "service" with an air of superiority and arrogance.
Again we went back and forth, by this time I had enough.
This time I asked him if he was trying to start a fight with me over what service I wanted performed on my car?
Again I firmly stated that I only wanted what was on the list, which is what the Manufacturer recommends performed on my car!
He shut up after that and began entering and adding on his computer and came up with an unitemized bill for an estimate of $179. I was sure he only said $79 when he said it, but there on the sheet it said $179. it came out to a bit more than this with some unitemized "misc. charges."
My question to you all is this - Is this a fair amount for the 15,000 Mile Service.
Thanks for letting me voice what in my gut tells me I still got took.
To all who live or will travel through Minnesota - avoid Morries Subaru - Brooklyn Park (a suburb of Minneapolis) for service, with both hands clutched onto your wallet.
As far as buying a car from - we had a great experience with their Fleet person (Mike Zickermann).
BoBo39 aka another Brian.
-juice
-mike
Steve
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I hear your anger and it pisses me off too that the service advisor pulled that on you. Unfortuantely, I think $179 is high for even if you went above and beyond what Subaru recommends in the owner's manual. At 15K it's usually just an oil change, tire rotation and inspect everything else.
You still can have the last laugh. If you think you were not treated well, log a complaint at Subaru customer support: 1-800-SUBARU3.
Ken
Thank you all for letting me get that off my chest - I feel so much better today you would not believe it. You are all a wonderful.
By the way, I checked the site Steve recommended - it should have only cost me $112.00. Anyone know who it would matter to at SOA what this dealership is doing? Or should I just count the money I saved, by not going with the dealer recommended.
Now can I ask a second question. How do I avoid being ripped off at 30,000?
Tx again, BoBo39
Ken
Steve
I've been rushing up to anyone I see getting out of a Forester or OB in parking lots to ask about good service. I hear good about Metropolitan Subaru and White Bear Lake.
Still, I'd get a price quote from Edmunds' wonderful tool, then call around and ask who can match it. Let them know you'll go to the dealer with the lowest quote, or the first to match Edmunds' price.
-juice
Guess they can afford to, eh?
Steve
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Since you said you were looking to buy - let me give you some unsolicited information about some twin city dealers we found.
We found the White bear salesmen that approached us on the lot to be "overbearing." The Internet salesman seems to be quite genuine. A complete difference.
The Richfield dealership was impossible to get into because of the freeway/road system - we gave up after circling completely twice. Our good friends did buy there and had a good experience they say.
We bought ours through a car buying service at Hiway Credit Union (www.hiway.org). You do not need to be a member of the credit union to use this service. It seems they rent space or something.
We told the person what year, model, color, etc. and they called around and found us a price very much in line with Edmunds price. Then I went to Morries in Brooklyn Park and finalized the deal with Mike Zimermann in what seemed like less than half an hour. Put 160 on the odometer that afternoon!
*I am a member of this credit union, but I believe the two are separate. I have no other connection with this than that.
BoBo39.
It's been a great car ... I've owned it for 22 months now and with 33.5K only had very minor problems.
I can fit two RC planes (or a greasy bike) in the back, and not worry about the fuel stains on the carpeting ... what more can you ask for :-)
Ken
So I'm up in Banff Canada this week on vacation.... having a great time.......check my cell messages and I got a call from my local Southern Cal. Subaru dealer. He told me that 2 '03 foresters just got into the port and they'll have them by Thursday or Friday. I'm back next Monday so I'm planning a test drive it.... can't wait.
How much difference does this feature make in the snow?
The "S" offers more important advantages for wintry climates: heated mirrors & wiper defroster. These make a big difference in visibility & peace of mind in icy snowy weather. That's why I bought the "S" and am glad I did.
John
-juice
I've never spent this much money on a car before, and I just want to be happy with my decision after I've forked over the money.
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
But autos have advantages, too. They're better for towing, and off road it's easier to control the throttle. They're easier to resall later, and easier for bumper to bumper commutes.
I find the Forester is very "user friendly" in many ways, and even the clutch pedal isn't stiff.
You can get an L model for about $19k with a 5 speed, under $20k for an auto. Or all the way up to $23k or so for an S Premium automatic with leather, which has that gargantuan moonroof.
Put it this way - I have a 1998, and the 2003 is on our shopping list for a 2nd car. That says it all.
-juice
I thought they were very good, cheaper and more friendly than the some of the bay area dealers. Plus they rented me a car (another Forester) for $19.95 and I was able to still get to work by 9:00
As for the 5-speed, I think it's a better combination with all four-cylinder engines. The 2.5L boxer in our Foresters is quite torquey, but the 5-speed allows you to take full advantage of it.
Ken
Besides what Northerner or Canadian hits the gas hard to get out of snow, stuck or not? Hello, spinning wheels get you nowhere.
I neither felt it would help or hinder my ride. Maybe if this were the first time driving under snow conditions this would help, but if you've learned and lived with winter driving you can do without. Even when I was in the process of buying my '02L I asked the salesman about having or not-having LSD. He said he hasn't lost a sale because one had LSD and the other not.
We choose the L because it satisfied our needs. We felt we didn't really need the bells and whistles and PRICE of the S, besides we hated the colour of the titanium trim of the '02S.
Basically LSD is a neat little option but it, by itself, should not determine which level to get.
p.s. If I remember correctly the LSD demonstration required the driver to hit the gas in order for the LSD to kick in when slipping or control was being lost, totally going against the instinct of taking the foot off the gas and a quick tap on the brakes. Can someone confirm this for me?